In 2019 my wife, Molly, and I cast off lines from our homeport in New Hampshire with the goal of cruising as far as New Zealand before turning around and heading back home. We traveled for almost two years, and during that time we savored archipelagos galore, having made stops in the eastern Caribbean, the Galapagos, Tahiti and French Polynesia, and the Cook Islands. And yet the virtually unknown Kingdom of Tonga was the most pleasant surprise.
One of the most enchanting cruising grounds in the world, it has crystal-clear waters, lush green islands, white-sand beaches, vibrant reefs and friendly English-speaking people. But those things are only part of Tonga’s charm. This chain of 171 islands, of which only 36 are inhabited, offers mile after mile of sheltered water with…