Just past daybreak at Wells Cove Landing, an offshoot of Kent Narrows on the Chesapeake Bay, the morning sounds are a peculiar mix—water slapping the bulkhead, the Route 50 highway drone, the whir of a fishing reel, an osprey keening overhead, laughter, a conversation in Spanish, another in Vietnamese. Through it all comes the intermittent rumble of wheeled coolers under tow from the parking lot to the boats: Island Queen II, Shirley B III, Miss Violet, Off Da’ Hook.
Dozens of anglers have traveled from as far away as Philadelphia, New York City and Washington, D.C., to spend the day among a small group of Black captains with the collective experience of generations of watermen. Much of their knowledge is gleaned from decades working the bay in the traditional fisheries…