Innholdsfortegnelse for 88 i Simply Sewing

This issue is laced with festive glamour! From the stunning Florence Dress from Sew Over It to a floaty jacket to dress up any outfit and a gold textured clutch bag for party season, we’re ramping up for a bit of Christmas shimmer and shine! You’ll also find plenty of inspiration if you’re looking for stocking fillers for a little one, including Blossom & Friday’s Christmas Mouse, an adorable plushie penguin toy and a magical set of fairy wings to make them feel special. Be sure to share your Christmas makes with us using #SimplySewingMag. WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

SEASONAL SHIFT Whether you’re out and about or having a cosy day at home, the Hovea jacket from Megan Nielsen Patterns is a comfortable and versatile layer to keep you warm. Make Hovea in multiple lengths and choose from pocket and closure styles as well as a range of lining and quilting options. Find heaps of tutorials and hacks at megannielsen.com. Available in US sizes 0–34. EVERYDAY EASE If you’re after an autumnal wardrobe staple, look no further than Muna and Broad’s latest pattern – the Tarawi Shirt. This relaxed-fit design is best made in lightweight wovens such as linen or a drapey viscose, or for a dressier shirt choose a silk satin. munaandbroad.com DISPLAY OF AFFECTION Whether you choose to put this Poppy Treffry tea towel to use in…

THE V&A SOURCEBOOK OF PATTERN AND ORNAMENT Amelia Calver (£40, Thames & Hudson) If you’re fascinated by surface patterns and global design, this book from the V&A’s own Licensing R&D Manager will be straight on your must-read list. This sourcebook is packed with over 1,000 illustrations of historic and contemporary two- and three-dimensional patterns from all around the world. WARDROBE EMBROIDERY Warunee Bolstad (£16.99, World Book Media) Update your clothes with modern embroidery designs from Warunee Bolstad of @plystreknitwear. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced stitcher, you’ll find a project in here for you with step-by-step photos to guide you through. Update a plain tee or jumper with an intricate floral design, or hide a tear in your favourite pair of jeans with a sweet heart design. MADLY MARVELOUS…

WEAR IT WITH RAIN OR SHINE…

Name: Sandeep Sandhu Instagram: @sandeepbeep/@sistermintaka Website: sistermintaka.com Pattern: Grace Dolman Quilted Jacket, Kdornbier Designs (kdornbierdesigns.com) Fabric: Rifle Paper Co. Peach Rosa Cotton, Sister Mintaka (sistermintaka.com) The Grace Jacket is a beautiful modern jacket that can be made in a variety of fabrics, from cotton jersey to quiltng cottons. I love the oversized shape, the high collar, and the welt pockets. The texture from the quiltng makes the style even more interesting. I’ve seen similar jackets available to buy from clothing shops, and this pattern is a perfect way to get the look. It has a cosy casual feel, and it’s a wonderful on-trend interpretation of the classic quilted jacket. Quilted jackets are starting to become more popular again, so it’s exciting to make a pattern that’s a fusion of the…

There’s an Iris Top for every season! Sew a three-quarter length ruffle sleeve for the autumn and winter, a cute short flutter sleeve for the spring, and omit the sleeves completely for a staple cami top in the summer. With a split hem, two long darts, and a choice of sleeve designs the Iris Top from Emporia Patterns is a great skills-booster project, too. This top tucked into a cord skirt with woolly tights and chunky ankle boots is our go-to style for the upcoming months! YOU WILL NEED Fabric: ■ Three-quarter length sleeves: Sizes 8–24: 1.4mx150cm Sizes 26–30: 2.7mx150cm ■ Flutter sleeves: Sizes 8–24: 1.2mx150cm Sizes 26–30: 2mx150cm ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm unless otherwise stated. ■ Some fabrics may need…

In this month’s workshop, Simply Sewing’s Senior Technical Editor, Roisin, guides you through five ways to hem your next make! Hems are the crucial finishing touch for every garment and many home sewing projects, so it’s important to choose, work, and finish them properly. They can be worked by machine or by hand – here, we show you how to hem using your sewing machine. We’ve covered the most popular hem types and shared some tips to help you work them as neatly as possible. CHECKING THE LENGTH Try your garment on and check you are happy with the length of the hem. It is best to make any adjustments to the length gradually and keep checking. You can always make the garment shorter, but it’ll be harder to lengthen…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Viscose fabric, depending on your desired length: 2.5–3m ■ Pattern paper ■ Long ruler (optional) ■ Pencil/ tailor’s chalk ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm unless otherwise stated. FABRICS USED ■ We used the Atelier Brunette Viscose in Sandstorm Night. Visit atelierbrunette.com MAKING YOUR PATTERN PIECES You can draw straight onto your fabric or use some paper and make the pattern. Step one Stretch your arms out to your side at shoulder height and measure from wrist to wrist (you may need help with this!) Halve that measurement and make this your first horizontal line across the top of your paper. Step two Decide on the length you would like your garment to be and draw a vertical line…

One common misconception is that natural fibres are automatically sustainable, but this is not the case. For example, conventional cotton requires huge quantities of water to grow, and the majority of cotton growers use dangerous pesticides on their crops to increase their yield to meet demand. This is dangerous to the farmers and to wildlife so always try to buy organic cotton which is farmed using fewer chemicals. From the harvesting of the raw materials, environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing to labelling, textiles certified to GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) provide a credible assurance to the consumer. Oeko-Tex textiles are certified free of harmful chemicals and are safe for human use. And the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) promotes growing cotton with judicious use of water, chemical fertilisers and pesticides. It’s…

BOW TIE & POCKET SQUARE YOU WILL NEED ■ 2x cotton fat quarters ■ Set of 19mm bow tie clasps ■ Lightweight iron-on interfacing ■ Loop turner or chopstick ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm unless otherwise stated ■ Fat quarter = 50x55cm FABRIC USED ■ Rifle Paper Co Holiday Classics collection from Sew Me Sunshine, sewmesunshine.co.uk CUTTING THE BOW TIE PIECES Step one From the main fabric cut: Bow: two 25x14cm Bow Centre: one 4x8cm Collar: one 5x55cm Step two From the iron-on interfacing cut: Bow: two 25x14cm Bow Centre Interfacing: one 4x8cm MAKING THE BOW TIE Step one Apply the iron-on interfacing to the wrong side (WS) of the fabric following the manufacturer’s instructions. Step two Take one the of the…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Black cuddle plush: 50x38cm for body ■ White cuddle plush: 35x33cm for body ■ Orange cuddle plush: 27x20cm for beak ■ Yellow fabric: 27x10cm for crown ■ Interfacing: 27x10cm for crown (optional) ■ White mini pom-pom trim (five poms for the crown) ■ Black stranded cotton ■ Polyester toy filling: 200g ■ Extra long pins ■ Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED ■ Shannon Luxe Cuddle Rose in Black and Snow White, cuddle plush in Orange ■ Kona Solids in Banana Pepper NOTES ■ Find the templates on page 90 or download and print from gathered.how/ss-templates ■ Seam allowance is 6mm ■ Fabric measurements are WxH ■ Finished height is roughly 28cm CUTTING OUT Step one Download, print and cut out the templates. Step two Place and…

Thank you for making these projects from Simply Sewing. The copyright for these templates belongs to the designer of the project. They work hard to create projects for you to enjoy, so please don’t re-sell or distribute their work without permission. Please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Copyright law protects creative work and unauthorised copying is illegal. We appreciate your help.…

As a personal stylist and sewist who has always marched to the beat of my own drum as far as aesthetic goes, I like to allow myself to enjoy trends. I think I was ‘trend averse’ for a while because I didn’t want to fall into the trap of homogenous fashion. However, sewing allows me to embrace the trends and styles I love, while also staying true to my bright aesthetic. The trend I’m fully on board with is cottage- and regency-core. This spring, as I was planning makes that nodded to rococo and Little House on the Prairie , I stumbled upon the Heather Dress by Mood Sewciety. This beautiful maxi dress has all the regality of a warm-weather dress with its ruffles, luxurious tiers and cinched waist. This…

Christmas creeps ever closer and we’re excited to update some of our festive decorations. Turn to page 28 for cheery home makes, and use up any fabric scraps with our fast quarter stocking fillers (page 71). You may have noticed our new statement, Sewing is for Everyone, opposite. It’s our commitment to create a magazine that’s inclusive of everyone in the wonderful world of sewing. There’s a place for every sewist in Simply Sewing and we look forward to sharing the stories and makes of more talented makers over the coming issues.…

Q Can you suggest any Christmas makes that I can get out year after year? I want to create some family heirlooms! A There’s nothing nicer than getting the Christmas decorations from the loft and unwrapping the tissue paper and seeing the old favourites; the colours, the textures, the smell, the memories – I love it! I still have baubles from my old Nan’s tree and they give me such joy. Here are some thoughts and ideas that may become some of your family heirloom Christmas treats. A lovely make and a beautiful sight is Mandy Shaw’s Nativity Kit (dandelion designs.co.uk ). It’s quite big and one you could make with younger members of the family. It’s a complete and utter joy and will fill you and yours with awe…

CHOOSE YOUR STYLE Pick from a cute cropped skirt or bib-front pinafore. IT’S IN THE DETAILS Choose from three styles of pocket with optional flaps, button closures and more. STAY STRUCTURED This pattern is just made for sturdy fabrics such as denim and corduroy. BOBBI SKIRT AND PINAFORE This design from Tilly & the Buttons includes patterns for a button-down skirt and a cute bib-front pinafore, both of which would be perfect made up in a soft, structured cord. It features a choice of three pockets, belt loops, a fitted waistband, princess seams and topstitch details. shop.tillyandthebuttons.com PATTERN INSPIRATION Sew some cosy autumnal makes with our pick of the best cord-friendly patterns 1 LANDER TROUSERS You can’t beat a good pair of corduroy trousers and we think that True Bias’…

1 Try a fabric with a darker background, like this Tinted Blooms fabric from Art Gallery Fabrics’ Luna & Laurel collection. (hantexonline.co.uk) 2 Go for a ditsy floral in a fresh colourway, such as this beautiful print from Liberty’s Carnaby collection. (eqsuk.com) 3 The modern floral pattern of this Rise Up fabric from Cloud9’s gorgeous Bloom Together range will make your jacket a stand-out piece. (hantexonline.co.uk)…

WEAR IT WITH FEELING ROSY…

1 CHILTON TRENCH COAT cashmerette.com “This first pattern comes highly recommended! It’s the Chilton Trench Coat by Cashmerette and you’ll want mid- to heavyweight woven fabrics or waterproof raincoat fabrics for this. If the latter is your choice, my top tip would be to avoid using pins. Dig out your fabric clips as pins might leave holes in your fabric.” 2 MEREDITH DRESS sewoverit.com “I came across the Meredith dress by Sew Over It very recently and I fell in love with the simple but charming style. Being a wardrobe staple for most ladies, wrap dresses are great for accentuating curves, and sewing the Meredith dress in jersey fabric will add that extra bit of comfort and warmth, especially if thicker jerseys are chosen.” 3 TOASTER SWEATER sewhouse7.com “I chose…

Many of us get into sewing as a way of stepping back from the destructive cycle of fast fashion and shopping on the high street. Although it’s a huge step in the right direction, there are still lots of things to consider when shopping for fabric for me-made garments: what resources went into making it? Who has it been made by? How was the fabric transported? Is it good quality and built to last? Luckily, there are savvy business owners out there who are as passionate about the planet as they are about sewing, and they’re making sustainable sewing accessible and achievable for us all. Whether it's sourcing eco-friendly fabric or utilising deadstock fabrics meet the makers putting sustainability at the very heart of their sewing businesses. Marine Wan, A…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Medium-weight woven fabric: 2m ■ Elastic: 2.5cm wide ■ Safety pin ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm ■ African wax fabric from Dovetailed was used for this project. Use code SIMPLYSEWING20 to save 20% on all fabric sold by the yard. Valid from 28th October until 11th November 2021. Visit dovetailed.co.uk. TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS ■ Measure around your waist and add 3cm for the seam allowance (A) ■ Measure from your waist to upper hip and add 6cm (B). Our measurement was approx 18cm. ■ Measure from your upper hip to mid-calf and add 6cm (C). Our measurement was approx 60cm. ■ These measurements will be used to cut out rectangles which will be transformed into your skirt. CUTTING…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Faux leather fabric: 65x50cm ■ Cotton fabric: 65x50cm ■ Metal zip: 30cm ■ Fabric clips ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm unless otherwise stated ■ You may want to change your needle to a heavy-duty denim needle to sew through the layers of faux leather. MATERIALS USED ■ Heavy soft faux leather fabric in gold from minerva.com ■ Roe and Hubble Cotton poplin fabric in beige from minerva.com ■ Gold zip from zipperstation.co.uk CUTTING OUT Step one From the faux leather fabric cut: Outer: two 32x22cm Frill: 64x19cm Step two From the cotton lining cut: Lining: two 32x22cm MAKING THE FRILL Step one Take the Frill piece and lay onto one of the Outer bag pieces. Use sewing clips…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Denim shirt ■ Stranded cotton in a range of coordinating colours ■ Pattern transfer pen ■ Tracing paper ■ Scissors ■ Size 7 embroidery needle ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ We used DMC stranded cottons in shades 3863, 3811, 472, 3854 and 838 PREPARATION Step one Use an erasable fabric marker to mark the leaf pattern on the shirt placket. Alternate the two versions so the leaves flip back and forth. If the pattern is wider than the placket, you can stitch over the shirt’s topstitching.01 EMBROIDERING THE SHIRT Step one Thread a needle with three strands of stranded cotton and tie a knot at the other end. Trim the extra tail so it’s roughly 5mm long. Slide the needle under the seam edge of…

SEW OVER IT The Florence Dress from Sew Over It is our cover star this month, and we can’t wait to see your takes! You can wear this dress all year round, but it’s perfect for layering with woolly tights, a chunky cardi and some boots now that autumn’s arrived. EMPORIA PATTERNS The Iris Top included with this issue is a design by Clair Heal of Emporia Patterns. This simple top with stand-out sleeve details is a wardrobe must-have this season! Be sure to check out the huge range of fabrics available at Emporia Fabrics, too. BLOSSOM & FRIDAY Lucy Woodrow creates the sweetest characters, and this month she’s made a special Christmas Mouse just for us! Blossom & Friday is named after Lucy’s favourite season, spring, and the day…

Party time! Occasion wear will feel extra special this year, says Production Editor Emily Freer AUDIE PLAYDRESS, AMY NICOLE STUDIO Make an entrance to any party with a fun playdress with princess seams and pockets! This is view B which has a flared maxi skirt and a cut-out back for an extra design detail. There’s a pencil skirt option too if you prefer a closer fit. Available in US sizes 0–32, amynicolestudio.com. ACAJOU TROUSERS, DEER AND DOE Pair high-waisted tapered trousers with a tucked-in blouse for an ultra chic party look. The elasticated back waistband on these make them a comfy choice, too. Available in EU sizes 34–52, shop.deer-and-doe.fr. ELO BLOUSE, RÉPUBLIQUE DU CHIFFON This blouse is described on the website as ‘fanciful’, and that’s definitely what we’re looking for…

THROW A CRAFT PARTY! Gather your favourite people and have a wonderfully crafty afternoon! Book a craft party at Sewcial Circle and make pom-pom crowns, tassel earrings or macramé planters. thesewcialcircle.com THE KNITTING & STITCHING SHOW 2021, HARROGATE From 18–21 November, the Harrogate Knitting & Stitching show is back! It’s every sewist’s dream day out with workshops, exhibitions and endless stalls of fabric. theknittingandstitchingshow.com SEW A CHRISTMAS STOCKING This class hosted at Ray Stitch in London is a workshop for beginners, and what better project to get you started with sewing than a festive stocking? Pick a date to suit you at raystitch.co.uk.…

For day-to-day wear or a special celebration, you’ll find yourself reaching for the Florence Dress again and again. This gorgeous floaty maxi is so easy to style and wear all year-round, and the design calls for drapey wovens so you’ll feel as lovely as you look in this. Check out #SOIFlorenceDress on Instagram to see what others are making. YOU WILL NEED Fabric: ■ Dress A: Sizes 8–10: 3.8mx115cm or 3.4mx140cm Sizes 12–14: 4.1mx115cm or 3.6mx140cm Sizes 16–20: 4.4mx115cm or 3.6mx140cm ■ Dress B: Sizes 8–10: 3mx115cm or 2.6mx140cm Sizes 12–14: 3.3mx115cm or 2.8mx140cm Sizes 16–20: 3.3mx115cm or 2.85mx140cm ■ 1cm wide elastic: 1.5m ■ Interfacing: 50x90cm ■ Buttons: 4x 8mm ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm throughout unless otherwise stated. ■ Please…

DOORSTOP Whether you’re back and forth from the kitchen, or someone wants to ride their new bike from room to room, a doorstop is especially useful at a busy time like Christmas! Put a festive twist on a home essential with this present-shaped design – wrap yours in a shiny ribbon to add a bit of shimmer! BOW CUSHION If you’re a fan of a decorative cushion, this bow-shaped design will be high on your must-make list! This is perfect for adding a festive touch to a chair or bed, and would also make a lovely gift made up in a special someone’s favourite colours and prints. STOCKING Hanging a stocking is always such an exciting part of Christmas for little ones, and a handmade version makes it all the…

Hovea Jacket (megannielsen.com) This versatile pattern comes in multiple lengths and can be made quilted or lined. It also has deep angled pockets – perfect for winter walks. Flynn Jacket (inthefolds.com) With its relaxed silhouette and wrap-around collar and high-low hem, this oversized blazer will soon become a wardrobe staple. Willa Wrap Coat (jenniferlaurenhand made.com ) This cosy wrap coat will keep you snug throughout the chilly months, and the oversized collar adds a touch of glamour!…

Making clothes the way I wanted opened a whole world of personal expression for me. Growing up, I loved drawing and painting. I’ve always been a creative person, however, I wanted to channel my creativity into science, which is one reason why I am pursuing a PhD in microbiology right now. Despite getting a minor in studio art (I had lofty dreams of integrating art and science into my career back then), I fell out of drawing and painting after my undergrad. Although growing as a scientist was fun, it didn’t fulfil my creativity the same way, and I sought out hobbies that could scratch that itch. I first started sewing about five years ago. My motivation was admittedly more practical; I wanted to alter ready-to-wear clothing so that it…

1 Use a sharp pair of scissors or a new rotary cutter blade. This will help you get through the extra thickness of your layers without putting a strain on your hands – or fabrics! 2 Use a longer stitch length than the standard 2.5mm to help get through multiple thick layers. 3 Consider using a heavy-duty needle, particularly when working with zips. Be careful with using these on lighter-weight fabrics though as they can leave holes. 4 Use your steam iron to press seams open and flat; you need a bit of extra pressing power here due to the weight of the fabrics. 5 Consider trimming your seams as you go along to reduce any bulk, as this can quickly build up when more seams are joined together.…

The Lenzing Group uses advanced technologies to create soft, versatile, sustainable fabrics, such as Tencel and EcoVero, from biodegradable wood fibre. At the end of its life cycle, nature returns to nature. lenzing.com Atelier Brunette designs high-quality, luxurious fabric collections and haberdashery made in France and Europe from certified manufacturers, using only Oeko Tex or EcoVero certified fabrics. atelierbrunette.com Merchant & Mills stock sustainable natural fabrics and are committed to offering a viable, wearable alternative to “the increasingly indistinguishable options of the high street”. merchantandmills.com Offset Warehouse scours the globe for hand-picked eco fabrics – including banana and pineapple fabrics! –with a focus on products that are kind to the planet, workers and those who wear them. offsetwarehouse.com Sew Me Sunshine offers dressmaking fabrics from well-known brands and ex-designer (deadstock)…

Add a touch of magic to a little one’s Christmas with this exclusive design from Lucy Woodrow at Blossom & Friday. The Christmas Mouse is a special heirloom character who’s sure to bring a smile. Customise this design by making the tutu in their favourite colour, or get creative and sew a range of outfits to gift along with the doll! Lucy sells a selection of playtime and springtime outfit patterns on her website so you can sew a skirt, dress and set of dungarees for your mouse! Take a look at blossomandfriday.co.uk.…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Fat quarters in mixed prints and colourways: six ■ Plain cotton: 1m ■ Cushion filler: 1 bag ■ 3–5 metres of chunky yarn ■ Zip: 66cm ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm unless otherwise stated. ■ Fat quarter = 45x55cm. FABRICS USED ■ Artisan Tropical Leopard collection from Hobbycraft, hobbycraft.com. CUTTING OUT Step one From the plain fabric cut: Cushion Front: 65x28cm Cushion Back: 65x38cm01 MAKING THE CUSHION FRONT Step one Decide on the order you want to layer your fat quarters in. Take your time and play with the order, then take a photo for reference. Step two Take the Cushion Front and press the short edges to the wrong side (WS) by 1cm. Step three Next, take…

YOU WILL NEED WAND ■ One 30x30cm piece of poplin ■ Small amount of stuffing ■ One 30cm bamboo dowel, 0.6mm diameter ■ 5 x 50cm of assorted ribbons CROWN ■ Two 15x50cm pieces of poplin ■ One 15x50cm piece of medium wadding ■ 75cm of 2cm wide satin ribbon FAIRY WINGS ■ 75cm of main fabric ■ 25cm of contrasting fabric x3 ■ 50cm of 5mm foam interfacing ■ 80cm of 2cm wide elastic ■ 1m of metal boning + 4 caps NOTES ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates ■ Seam allowance is 1cm FABRIC USED ■ Kismet collection by Art Gallery Fabrics. For stockists visit hantex. co.uk/agf. MAKING THE WAND Step one From the main fabric cut: Star: two Step two Take the two star pieces and place…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…