Innholdsfortegnelse for 82 i Simply Sewing

The beauty of a me-made wardrobe is the ability to personalise every last detail – not least the fit! If you’re new to dressmaking, modifying patterns to match your measurements can feel daunting, but we’ve made it simple with this month’s handy fold-out alterations guide. The top tips inside it are taken from the all-new The Great British Sewing Bee: The Techniques book (£15, Quadrille) – get your free copy when you subscribe to Simply Sewing on page 16. Put your new-found knowledge to use with this month’s Fiona dress and top pattern set and Emilien jumper – we can’t wait to see your makes! WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

ADAPTIVE FASHION In late 2020 Victoria Jenkins launched Unhidden’s first collection – a stylish, comfortable and practical range of adaptive clothing designed for people with disabilities and impairments. Victoria is now looking to create a network of disabled sewists who are interested in tailoring and modifying clothes for people in need of adaptations. Find out more at unhiddenclothing.com. STORE YOUR SHARPS W Has the spring cleaning frenzy reached your sewing room yet? If you’re looking to take your organisation to the next level, Pattern Trace’s new needle store is the sewing room essential you need! The recycled plastic boxes come with stickers to help separate your different needles, as well as a fuzzy dot to stick to the side of each compartment to keep your used needle away from the…

CREATE WEARABLE ART If you’re looking for an easy way to update your wardrobe, try Danielle Clough’s virtual class and learn how to create personalised embroidery for your clothes. skillshare.com SEW A JUMPSUIT One-pieces are here to stay for summer, so join Tabitha Sewer and make your very own wide-leg, cross-back Nina Jumpsuit! Take Tabitha’s class for free with a trial on creativebug.com. VISIBLE MENDING Restoration London is holding a one-hour virtual workshop to learn the visible mending technique of darning. 10% of profits will be donated to Black Visions Collective. eventbrite.co.uk…

This design from Fiona Hesford is a wardrobe must-have. Whether you choose to sew the top or a Sewing Bee-style buffet dress – or both! – you’ll reach for this modern, stylish set again and again. No matter what the season, tiers are always on-trend, and we love them not only for the shape, movement and elegance they add but also that all-important comfort factor that we crave – especially after a year spent at home wearing strictly loose-fits only... YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric, 112cm (44in) wide: Long sleeve version: 3.4mx112cm (3¾x44in) Short sleeve version: 2.9mx112cm (3¼x44in) ■ Fabric, 140cm (55in) wide: Long sleeve version: 2mx140cm (2¼x55in) Short sleeve version: 2.5mx140cm (2¾ydx55in) ■ Interfacing: 30x40cm (12x16in) ■ A loop turner or a blunt-ended chunky sewing needle and a safety…

1 PICK YOUR PLEAT There are many styles of pleat to choose from when designing a garment, and you might find that one type works better in your project than others. Traditionally, the three types of pleat used most commonly in dressmaking are the knife pleat, the box pleat and the inverted box pleat – read on for more on what each of these styles entails. 2 LANGUAGE LESSONS While they’re fairly simple once you get the hang of the technique, knowing the correct terms used in pleat construction will make the process even easier. The main phrases you’ll stumble across will be ‘pleat depth’, which refers to distance between the outside and inside folds; ‘pleat underlay’, which refers to the distance of the pleat depth, multiplied by two; and…

Chatting to designer, author and former finalist of The Great British Sewing Bee Chinelo Bally over Zoom, it’s clear life has evolved drastically since the Coronavirus pandemic shook the globe. “My husband, daughter and I travelled to Nigeria to visit family just before the pandemic struck and ended up being here for seven months!” Chinelo explains, sitting in a beautiful, floaty ankara dress, amid 38 degree Nigerian heat. “I was born in Nigeria and we left for the UK when I was about eight. But since being stranded here, I feel like I’ve reconnected to Nigeria, and my husband and I now both split our time between London and here when we can. I love it!” A LEAP OF FAITH With a newfound, high-profile sewing career and a then one-year-old…

I was homebound, but felt liberated through sewing and sharing my makes. When the pandemic hit last year, I was working with my husband in the performance company that he had founded. Suddenly all work in the theatre came to a stop and I lost my main creative outlet as Artistic Director. After the initial shock and grief over losing my job, I began to construct a new stage to showcase my other craft – sewing. Up until that point, I was somewhat shy about displaying my sewing handiwork. I considered myself a beginner, having started just two years prior when my husband gifted me with a sewing machine. The critic inside me couldn’t fathom showcasing imperfect garments to the world. At the same time, it was impossible to suppress…

One of the best things about sewing your own clothes is being able to achieve a tailored fit, and with the fold-out guide included with this issue you can sew garments that fit like a dream. The handy alteration tips inside are taken from the brand-new book, The Great British Sewing Bee: The Techniques (Quadrille Publishing, £15). Whether you’re making bust or shoulder adjustments or altering length or dart placement, you’ll find easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions inside to guide you through.…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Cotton Gauze or any fabric with a nice drape: 1.5m (1¾yd) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm (5/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ The measurements shown will fit a UK size 10-12; increase the size of your fabric panels to enlarge. ■ If you are unsure about your size, use a garment you already own such as a jacket or t-shirt to calculate approximate measurements for your jacket. MATERIALS USED ■ Double Gauze from Samantha Claridge Studio, samanthaclaridgestudio.com. CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut: Back : 64x64cm (25x25in) Front : two 32x64cm (12.5x25in) Sleeve : two 56x30cm (22x12in) ASSEMBLING THE JACKET Step one Place each Front on top of the Back right sides (RS) facing and pin…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Cotton canvas or similar weight fabric for the outer: 1m (11/8yd) ■ Cotton for the lining: 1m (11/8yd) ■ Style-Vil foam interfacing (Vlieseline): 1m (11/8yd) ■ 3cm- (1¼in) wide webbing for the straps, tabs and front closure: 3m (3½yd) ■ Metal zip for the front pocket: 15cm (6in) ■ 32mm rectangle rings: x4 ■ 32mm sliders for the adjustable straps: x2 ■ Fray stopper ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 5mm (¼in) unless otherwise stated. ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Canvas, linen or upholstery fabrics MATERIALS USED ■ The cotton canvas, webbing and all hardware used is from STOFF & STIL / Selfmade®: stoffstil.co.uk CUTTING OUT Step one From the canvas fabric cut: Front Side Outer…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Oilcloth fabric:1m (11/8yd) ■ Denim: 1m (11/8yd) ■ Micro padding: 1m (11/8yd) ■ 18mm bias binding: 4m (4½yd) ■ Velcro: 15cm (6in) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. MATERIALS USED ■ All fabrics and haberdashery are from Stoff & Stil/Selfmade®,stoffstil.co.uk CUTTING OUT Step one From the oilcloth cut: Lining: 28x56.5cm (11x22¼in) Step two From the micro padding cut: Micro Padding: 28x95cm (11x373/8in) Step three From the denim cut: Outer Lower: 28x56.5cm (11x22¼in) Pocket Backing: 28x42cm (11x16½in) Outer Upper: 28x42cm (11x16½in) Small Pocket: 18.5x28cm (73/8x11in) Large Pocket: 22x38cm (8¾x15in) MAKING THE POCKETS Step one Bind the longer Small Pocket edge.01 Step two Fold the other three edges of the Small Pocket to the wrong side (WS)…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

Colours speak louder than words! Isn’t it marvellous how colours can spark happy emotions on a dull day? It’s like they communicate with their own mysterious language that somehow influences the soul! I feel like we island people can’t resist colour. It’s a part of who we are; reflected in the way we dress, the food we eat, and even the paint we choose for our houses. Maybe it has to do with the fact that the Caribbean is a melting pot of cultures so every colour is represented in some way. I guess you could say in the islands, our blood runs the colours of the rainbow! You wouldn’t believe I was actually terrified to make my Screwdriver Top by Our Lady of Leisure in this bright tropical floral…

If you’ve been keeping in touch with your loved ones by post this past year, up your game with our collection of beautiful gifting makes on page 28 – friends and family will be thrilled when the postman arrives! If you’ve been inspired by The Great British Sewing Bee and are more in the mood for a wardrobe update, make yourself a gorgeous (and flattering!) tiered buffet dress using this month’s Fiona set, or get creative with Chinelo Bally’s beautiful angled pencil skirt. Remember to share all your sewing projects with us on Instagram @simplysewingmag.…

LENNOX BOILERSUIT, HOMER AND HOWELLS This boilersuit will be your secret weapon as restrictions ease! It’s smart and functional but with a relaxed-fit it’s also super comfortable and flattering. Choose from two leg lengths and a straight or elasticated waistband. Available in UK 6–24, homerandhowells.com. HANNAH BLOUSE, CUT COUTURE This versatile blouse can be worn year-round, and it’s made using 100% natural and biodegradable fabric too, so you’ll feel as good as you look. The pre-cut linen pieces come in white, ready to be dyed to a colour of your choice. Available in sizes Small–Large, cutcouturekit.com. WATTLE SKIRT, MEGAN NIELSEN PATTERNS The Wattle Skirt is all about options, but whether you sew a midi- or knee-length skirt, opt for a button or tie waistband, or  choose pleats over gathers, you’ll…

MAKE THRIFT MEND Katrina Rodabaugh (£17.99, Abrams & Chronicle Books) A stain on your favourite jumper or a rip in your go-to pair of jeans is no longer cause for despair! Slow fashion influencer Katrina Rodabaugh teaches you how to mend, patch, dye and alter clothing in her new book. You’ll be digging out neglected clothes to reimagine them into something that feels like you. What better way to build your wardrobe in an eco-friendly, sustainable way? 500 PATTERNS Jeffrey Mayer, Todd Conover and Lauren Tagliareffo (£25, Laurence King Publishing) Explore textiles spanning from the 1800s to the 1980s with this visual journey through fabric history. 500 patterns, including bold stripes, geometric prints and delicate florals, are showcased in this beautiful book filled with close-up photographs and accompanied by fascinating…

TURN UP THE VOLUME Box pleats around the waistline add extra volume and shape. FLATTERING FIT Choose from a scoop or V-neck for the front neckline. TAKE YOUR PICK Pick and choose features and fabrics to make a casual or occasion dress. THE UPTON DRESS No matter which variation you make, you’ll make a statement in this design from Cashmerette. Make a classic fit-and-flare dress with a gored skirt or add structure and volume with deep box pleats – there are pockets hidden among those big pleats! cashmerette.com…

FABRIC ENVELOPES We all appreciate the thought and effort that goes into a handwritten letter, and now you can go the extra mile and deliver it in a handmade envelope. These are perfect for pick-me-up postcards and birthday vouchers when you’re looking to add a personal touch. STORAGE TUB Keep all of your go-to gifting necessities safely stowed in one place with a handy storage tub. The pockets are ideal for making sure those smaller gift tags and ribbons are easy to find, and with colourful contrast lining and handles this will look great on your shelves in between uses. GIFT BAGS Choosing a gift bag for a special present is the ultimate finishing touch, and taking time to select the perfect fabric to suit your gift – and the…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Cotton fabric for a skirt made in a single fabric: Waist to hemline measurement + 6.25cm (2½in) x Hip + 2.3m (2½yd) ■ OR, main skirt: Waist to hemline measurement + 6.25cm (2½ in) x Hip + 46cm (18in) ■ And overlay: Hip + 25cm (10in) x 115cm (45in) ■ And waistband: 12.5cm (4 in) deep x Waist + 10cm (4in) long ■ Matching thread ■ Zip: use the longest length as you can always cut it down ■ Interfacing: 1m (1yd) x 150cm (60 in) wide ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS Horizontal Waist: this refers to the natural waist; a good way to find this is to bend your body to the side – the deepest part of the bend…

Remember drizzly Saturday afternoons spent ducking in and out of fabric stores, finding hidden gems, bargain fat quarters and treating yourself to some much needed retail therapy? The pandemic, and its multiple lockdowns, has changed the way we shopped for sewing materials, so nowadays it’s much more likely to be a case of visiting your favourite sewing website and choosing your next stash additions from the comfort of your sofa. But how has this shift in our shopping behaviour affected fabric shop owners, and what does it mean for the future of fabric shopping? Annie Barker owns The Village Haberdashery (thevillagehaberdashery.co. uk), a beautiful shop packed full of fabrics, wool and crafting goodies located in London’s trendy West Hampstead. Although COVID-19 has forced her to close the doors of her…

1 Lengthen the jacket to make a longer length cover-up for cooler evenings. 2 Add a trim to the hem and sleeve hems, you can personalise the style to your taste. Use tassels for a holiday cover-up or pom-pom trim for party wear. 3 Add patch pockets to the front of the garment. Try the jacket on when complete and decide where you would like to place them. 4 Dip the hem at the back for a subtle design detail. You could choose to curve the back hem or simply cut the back a few cm longer and turn the side seams in. 5 Use a lightweight gauze as we have for summer or make this in a denim or lightweight wool depending on the season. 6 Make a tie…

Non-stretch fabrics are made by weaving threads together. These threads have been spun in a particular fibre (cotton, rayon, linen etc). When the threads are woven together, a grain is created, and the grain affects the give the fabric has in all directions. Often, puckering, stretching and wavy hems can all be attributed to the grain of the fabric reacting to the direction it has been cut or sewn in. WHAT IS THE GRAINLINE? Generally, when the grainline is referred to, it is assumed to be the straight grain of the fabric unless otherwise stated. The straight grain is the direction of the least give, so gently pull on you fabric to find out which way the grainline runs. The straight grain is the strongest grain so is ideal for…

FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl’s Fiona Hesford has treated us to to another Simply Sewing exclusive design this month! This issue, we’re bringing you a tiered top and dress that you’ll wear all through the spring and summer months. See our styling suggestions on page 20. MARIE-EMILIENNE AND BLANDINE The sister duo behind I Am Patterns, Marie- Emilienne and Blandine, are the designers of the Emilien Sweatshirt included with this issue. Find fabric recommendations for this classic, easy-sew project on page 42. CHINELO BALLY This is such an exciting time for Chinelo. Not only has she just launched her second book, Sew Chinelo, but she’s also an expert on BBC’s Saved and Remade! Read more about her on page 46 and sew a skirt from her new book on page 51. KEIRA…

A lot of people are terrified at the thought of sewing with jersey fabrics, but it’s not as difficult as you might think. All you need is the right stitch, the right needle for your machine and the right choice of fabric. For my final degree show at Wimbledon School of Art we had to show how we coped using different fabrics. For one of my stretch projects I made a cute take on a naughty seaside Victoriana swimsuit for my gorgeous friend Lyn. I took some white Lycra, painted it with wide pink stripes, made up the garment and then attached a full-circle cotton poplin skirt with an adorable frou-frou hem. It certainly caused a stir! Rachel Illsley made herself a lovely Lady McElroy scuba dress for a family…

PSST: Turn the page for fabric and styling inspiration. Share your Emilien Jumper with us using #simplysewingmag. This classic jumper design is part of I AM Patterns’ I AM A Sailor collection, a range inspired by watching seaside sunsets and weathering storms. This design pays homage to the sailor uniform with its left shoulder button placket, an iconic feature and an element that differentiates this jumper from the others you own. This project is a really simple sew, and made in lightweight jersey it’ll be the perfect go-to for a comfortable extra layer to take with you for summer evening walks or late nights spent catching up with friends in the garden. See one of our favourite designs from the latest collection from I AM Patterns, the Shérazade dress, on…

Sew yourself a new everyday bag with The Anna Tote! Sew your new go-to bag for picnics and days out with The Anna Tote, included with this issue. This practical design from Anna Alicia is a fully-lined canvas bag with a boxed base and simple clasp closure. You’ll want a durable canvas fabric for this – we used the gorgeous Birds and Blossoms canvas from Cloud9 Fabrics (cloud9fabrics.com) for ours. You could opt for a plain outer with a vibrant contrast webbing or lining fabric, or even a two-tone front and back! Share your tote with us using #simplysewingmag.…

YOU WILL NEED Makes two cushions ■ Two 41x15cm (16x6in) (length x diameter) bolster cushion inserts (your covers will be slightly smaller than these dimensions, to make them full and firm once filled) ■ Patterned corduroy, pattern 1: 50x75cm (20x30in) (HxW) ■ Patterned corduroy, pattern 2: 50x75cm (20x30in) (HxW) ■ 1cm (3/8in) Velcro: 1m (11/8yd) each of the hook and loop sides ■ 3mm flanged piping trim: 2m (2¼yd) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. FABRICS USED ■ Cloud9 Fabrics, A Walk Remembered collection, in Native Flowers and Blooming Vines For stockists, visit: hantexonline.co.uk CUTTING OUT Step one From each of the corduroys cut: Outer: One 49x42cm (193/8x16½in) rectangle Ends: Two 16cm (63/8in) diameter circles. MAKING THE OUTERS Step…

1 READ THE DESCRIPTION Take the time to read the entire description – it’s easy be lured in by an attractive print only to find that the fabric isn’t suitable for the project you have in mind. Many online retailers show a ruler in their pictures so you can get an idea of the size of the print. Double check you’re happy with the scale before placing an order. 2 ORDER A SAMPLE Colours can appear different on screen and colour names can mean different things to different people. Samples are cheap and are a quick way to confirm your choice. It’s also really beneficial to start a swatch book, grab a sketchbook and staple in swatches as you get them. Make a note of the weave, weight, reference number…

Refresh your summer wardrobe with the latest designs from I AM Patterns. The four-piece collection, named I AM A Princess, features graceful tops and dresses, and a versatile playsuit. The Shérazade, shown here, is a comfortable short-sleeved dress with in-seam pockets that you’ll enjoy wearing all through the warmer seasons. See the full collection, including Diana, Cinderella and Cleopatre, online at iampatterns.fr, and find your I AM Patterns Emilien sweatshirt with this issue on page 42.…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Broderie Anglaise fabric: 50x115cm (20x45in) ■ Striped Breton top ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates MATERIALS USED ■ Broderie Anglais from Minerva: minerva.com CUTTING OUT Step one We wanted to make our thrifted long-sleeved top into a classic Breton style top so we cut approximately 10cm (4in) off the bottom of the sleeves, turned them up, and finished the sleeve with a zigzag stitch to maintain the stretch in the fabric.01 Step two From the Broderie Anglaise fabric cut: Collar : two on the fold using the template Tie : two 25x4cm (10x15/8in) MAKING THE TIES Step one Take the Tie pieces and fold one end in by 1cm…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Linen fabric: 20x25cm (8x10in) ■ Quilting cotton fabric: 20x25cm (8x10in) ■ Iron-on interfacing: 20x25cm (8x10in) ■ Elastic: 30cm (12in) ■ Stranded cotton ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates ■ Depending on the stretch of your elastic, you may need to adjust the length given. ■ Prewash and dry your fabrics before you start. WOVEN BACKSTITCH Step one Start with standard backstitch. Come up a stitch length away from the beginning of the line or the previous stitch, then go back down to complete the stitch.01 Step two Start a new piece of thread. Come up at the middle of the first backstitch but don’t split the stitch. Weave the needle back and forth under the back stitches. It…