Innholdsfortegnelse for 78 i Simply Sewing

Happy New Year! And a big welcome to any new readers who got a Simply Sewing subscription for Christmas! We’re kicking off 2021 with some very special patterns. We’re delighted to be bringing you Nina Lee’s gorgeous Carnaby Dress as well as another exclusive pattern from our Technical Editor, Roisin, who designed the Verna Top for this issue – read all about the namesake behind this top on page 90. If you’re looking to learn a new skill this year then our Beginner’s Guide to Toy Making booklet could be just the thing. You’ll find ten fun projects in there to get you started. Enjoy! WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

PERFECT MATCH Head to Melanated Fabrics for a collection of modern materials curated by DIY content creators Mimi G and Brittany Jones. As women of colour, they are on a mission to show that sewing is all about inclusivity and with their eye for matching fabric to patterns they know just what modern sewists want! Take a peek at what's on offer at melanatedfabrics.com FOR SOMETHING SPECIAL Presenting the Sycamore Lane Dress from Sew to Grow! This elegant show-stopper can be made in maxi or above the knee length and you can choose from sleeveless or slightly belled raglan sleeves. Available in XS–4XL. Check out the pattern at sewtogrow.com.au LOOK SHARP! The sharper the better when it comes to needles, and the new PONY Black range promises to take things…

If you’d asked me four years ago if I knew anything about quilting I would have said no. But since then I have learnt so much from the inspiring designers I have been lucky to meet, firstly on Sewing Quarter and now, of course, on Sewing Street. If you scratch beneath the surface of the history of this beautiful art it’s a fascinating story. Here are some interesting facts. The stitching together of three layers – the pieced (or whole cloth) top, the layer of padding, and the backing – seems to have been around as far back as 3000BC. It was originally a technique used to provide protection and insulation. In Europe, quilting appears to have been introduced by the crusaders in the twelfth century as a garment worn…

EYE MASK Mask on and head down! January can have us feeling a little bit like hibernating, so why not embrace the long dark evenings and catch up on some snooze time? An eye mask is a simple make but an essential ingredient for a good night's sleep. APPLIQUÉ CANVAS Hang this all-important reminder somewhere you'll see it every day. We love a motivational wall hanging, and this one feels particularly special. Customise it to match your home decor or opt for stand-out contrast colours. SHIOPPER BAG This patchwork shopper bag is as practical as it is pretty! It has a removable base that helps it keep its shape and can be taken out for washing. This is such a good way of displaying your most-loved prints. COSMETICS CASE Whether…

YOU WILL NEED Oversizedmensshirt Elastic: 2.5–5cm (1–2in) wide Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES Seam allowance is 1.5cm (5/8in) unless otherwise stated. SUGGESTED FABRICS Use a cotton, linen, or denim shirt for a summer skirt or use a heavier weight cord or denim for a cosy winter skirt. PREPARATION Step one Remove any pockets carefully. Step two Cut the shirt straight across at the point where the underarm meets the shirt body.01 Step three If your shirt has a fitted shape (it goes in and out again at the waist) you will need to straighten the side seams. Cut straight down at each side to create a straight edge.02 MAKING THE SKIRT Step one Turn the shirt inside out and pin the new side seams together. Stitch the side…

@peterlappin For fun prints, vintage patterns, and a look at the best flea markets. @mainelymenswear For hacks, restorations, sailboats, and a very cute dog! @_donnyq For effortless style, a gorgeous colour palette, and brilliant textures. @daddydressedmebymg› For heartwarming father-daughter content and makes. @bradschultzdesign For pure joy, vibrant makes, and down to earth posts. @norrisdantaford For fashion, fabrics, and inspiring #DopeMenSew content.…

YOU WILL NEED Relaxed-fitjumperfineclose knit) Lightweight drapey fabric remnant Iron-on seam tape: 15mm (5/8in) Matching thread Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED ■ Seam tape is Flexible Seam Tape by Vlieseline from sewessential.com ■ Viscose Challis in green from minervacrafts.com CREATING THE RUFFLE Step one With the garment inside out measure up the side seams from the hem and mark the point (on both sides) where you want the flounce section to be inserted. We opted for a little below waist height for a peplum style hack, but you can chose any point to add the ruffle. Under your bust would create an empire line effect and lower down would add a subtle ruffle trim. Wherever you choose to position your ruffle, cut close to the side seams up to…

Just in time for Christmas Homer and Howells has released a brand new pattern - the Lennox Boiler Suit. This flattering, androgynous new design features a relaxed fit, dropped shoulders, elbow-length sleeves, and optional breast pockets. Make your Lennox with full- or 3/4-length legs or choose to make it as a cropped shirt which pairs perfectly with high-waisted trousers. This looks fab made up in linen, and can also be made in denim or cotton drills. Available in UK sizes 6-24 from homerandhowells.com…

As I type this letter, I'm sitting in my Christmas jumper at my makeshift living room desk, hurriedly finishing up emails and exciting new dressmaking commissions for 2021. Why the hurry, you ask? Well, today is my last day on Simply Sewing before I embark on maternity leave. I'm looking forward to seeing the magazine evolve over the coming year – and hope that the team and you, our lovely readers, are able to regain some normality in the coming months. In true magazine-style I am really going out on a high with this glorious bumper issue! Hope you enjoy it and do stay in touch @simplysewingmag.…

From super-bold print boy's shirts to pretty pinafore dresses, Gowri Paary of Bypaary has certainly made her mark in the world of designer kids' clothing. Based in Aotearoa, New Zealand, Gowri decribes herself as "a wife, mum, teacher, sewist, small business owner and children’s book author, amongst other things". Her sewing journey began when she was looking for bunting to decorate her son’s nursery before he was born, "I was surprised by the prices of them and thought to myself, 'Maybe I could make this!'. That soon became my mantra," she recalls. Gowri started off with the help of her aunt and her trusted Bernina, "Safe to say, I was hooked! I then enrolled in some weekly night sewing classes run by a lovely lady, Robyn, in Hamilton, NZ. She…

Learn a new skill from the comfort of your couch with these online workshops from some of our sewing favourites. CHOOSEYOURCRAFT Take your pick of craft workshop from Yodomo. This site has a huge range of craft kits available that come with an online workshop to talk you through the making. Browse the kits at yodomo.co LEARN NEW ESSENTIAL SKILLS If a lack of sewing know-how is holding you back, make 2021 the year to nail your skills. From button holes to bias binding you'll find the tutorials you need in the 'How to Sew' section on gathered.how SEW STYLISH IDEAS 2019 Sewing Bee winner Juliet Uzor has a blog and YouTube channel packed with tutorials – from stylish garments to keeping your craft room tidy. Visit sewsonatural.com…

The Carnaby Dress is so versatile and stylish. Pair it with chunky tights, a warm cardigan, and boots for the cooler months, and simply slip on a pair of sandals for an effortless summer get-up. Visit ninalee.co.uk for design inspiration. YOU WILL NEED Fabric: DressASizes610: 2mx115cm (2¼ydx45in) Sizes 12–20: 2.5mx115cm (2¾ydx45in) Sizes 6–14: 1.5mx140cm (1¾ydx55in) Sizes 16–20: 2.1mx140cm (2¼ydx55in) Interfacing: 60x90cm (24x36in) Dress B Sizes 6–12: 2mx115cm (2¼ydx45in) Sizes 14–16: 2.3mx115cm (2½ydx45in) Sizes 18–20: 2.7mx115cm (3ydx45in) Sizes 6–14: 1.4mx140cm (1½ydx55in) Sizes 16–20: 1.9mx140cm (2ydx55in) Interfacing: 30x90cm (12x36in) For both dresses: Contrasting fabric for the pocket bags: 30x90cm (12x36in) Exposed zip: 20cm (8in) NOTES Theseamallowanceis1.5cm (5/8in) unless otherwise specified in the instructions. FABRIC SUGGESTIONS Medium-weightwovenssuchaslightweight denim, corduroy, wool, and cotton sateen. FABRIC INSPIRATION GO GREEN WEAR IT WITH…

From smart to casual and day to night, the Verna Top can be styled for any occasion. The loose shift shape makes this an easy, comfortable wear, and with a variety of suitable fabrics you can sew up multiple versions for a selection of different looks. Such a classic design lends itself easily to modifications – try adding a trim to the sleeve hems, lengthening the top into a tunic, or altering the neckline (if you're feeling adventurous!). We're always excited to introduce new techniques to level up your sewing skills which is why this issue's workshop (page 62) is all about how to sew the perfect dart. Professional-looking darts are a great way to improve the look of your garments and we give you a range of techniques. This…

Throughout history, statement sleeves have been big business – from the early days of feudal Japan when long kimono sleeves often contained pockets, to the 1980s, when huge shoulder pads and gathers made puff sleeves the favourite of fashionistas around the world. In the Tudor period, wealthy women often had detachable sleeves sewn to wear with their dresses, which would be tied to the shoulders of their gowns with ribbons for an easier removal.…

Make the belt in a contrast fabric from your stash or add a slide-on buckle for a smart finish. Use a lumberjack, fleece, or heavy denim shirt for a skirt that will keep you cosy in the colder months. Pair with leggings and boots for a classy winter look. In the same way use a lightweight linen shirt or a bright tropical print for a breezy summer skirt. Swap out the shirt buttons to co-ordinate with your colour palette! You can search your stash or buy new/vintage buttons to match, be sure to use buttons that are the same size or else they won't fit through the existing button holes! Mix things up by using two (or more) shirts for a patchwork skirt, this is a great way to make…

Start the new year with a new skill! Our Beginner's Guide to Toy Making booklet contains ten plushie projects that are perfect for getting started. You'll find magical unicorns, fluffy puppies, colourful butterflies, and a friendly dragon inside. There's also a handy toy making workshop to walk you through the essentials, including stuffing, shaping, and stitches, as well as how to create those all-important facial expressions that bring the toys to life. All of the templates can be found here: gathered.how/sewing-toys…

Sewing a dart is often one of the first steps in the garment sewing process. Often, instructions will simply tell you to 'sew the dart' which, if you've never sewn a dart before, can be a tricky task to master on your own. There are many methods that can help you to perfect darts, from preparing the fabric before you sew, to the stitch settings you select on your machine. WHAT IS A DART? Darts are tucks in the fabric used to shape a garment to a curved area of the body. They are commonly used in womenswear on bodice fronts to add shaping to the bust and also on skirt backs. Darts can also be used creatively to create a design feature. When looking at a bust dart, the…

YOU WILL NEED Bretonshirt Printer Thick wool Stranded cotton to match wool Embroidery needle Water erasable fabric marker Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ You will need a computer and printer for this project to select and print out the letters. ■ If you are unable to print the lettrs off at home, simply measure the space you would like to fill with letters and sketch your letters out by hand – a chance to get creative! ■ See more of Juliet's work on Instagram: @juliet_bawden and at creativecolour.org MAKING THE TEMPLATES Step one Find a font that you like and print your chosen letters out in a size that will look good on your shirt. ADDING THE APPLIQUÉ LETTERS Step one Cut out the letters and pin…

YOU WILL NEED Corduroyorothersturdyfabric: 60x140cm (24x55in) Tape for straps: 2mx5cm (2¼ydx2in) Zip: 20cm (8in) Tailor's chalk Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ We used an overlocker for many of the seams, but you could use a zigzag stitch to finish the raw edges instead. CUTTING OUT Step one From the corduroy fabric cut: Bag Front: 26x57cm (10¼x22½in) Bag Back: 46x55cm (181/8x215/8in) Bag Sides: two 13x55cm (5¼x215/8in) Pocket: 26x26cm (10¼x10¼in) Zip Tab Ends: 3x4cm (1¼x15/8in) INSERTING THE ZIP Step one Place one Zip Tab End right side (RS) up, then the zip facing up on top, and the other Zip Tab End RS down on top. Sew together. Step two Fold the Zip Tab Ends away so you can see…

YOU WILL NEED Linenfabric50x50cm(20x20in) Stranded cotton: one skein Perle cotton embroidery thread: one skein Embroidery hoop (optional) Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates HONEYCOMB SASHIKO Step one Stitch staggered rows of running stitch. The stitches from one row should be evenly spaced and parallel to the next.01 Step two Come up to the right of the running stitches, then slide your needle under the top running stitch in each row. Using the eye end of the needle prevents accidentally piercing the stitches. When you reach the other side, go back down through the fabric.02 Step three Come back up on the left side of the running stitches, then alternate sliding your needle under the top running stitch of the first row, and the…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

NINA CHANG Our cover pattern this month comes from the lovely Nina of indie pattern label, Nina Lee. You can read all about Nina’s creative process, how she left publishing for patterns, and her big plans for the future in her profile piece – find it on page 24. ROISIN MCKENNA Simply Sewing’s Technical Editor, Roisin, designed our second cover pattern, the Verna Top. This one has a special story behind it – find out all about the lady who inspired the top on page 90. Roisin’s written a handy workshop on darts for this, too (page 62). DEBBIE WAINHOUSE Debbie is a regular maker behind some of our lovely projects, and this issue not only will you find her fab refashion project on page 50, you can also read…

SPRUCE, CASHMERETTE The Spruce is a workout tank with princess seams. Rock a V-neck or crew neck and choose from a scooped back with on-trend straps or opt for a high back and cap sleeves. You can also choose to buy the activewear bundle to pair the Spruce with the Belmont yoga pants and make your own yoga bag. Available in 12–32, cashmerette.com HUDSON PANT, TRUE BIAS Comfort is king when it comes to the Hudson pant, with a generous fit that keeps things loose around the hips before tapering to a skinny leg. Go for full length or mid-calf and then decide on your stretch fabric – medium weight knits such as cotton Lycra, French terry, ponte, and sweatshirt knit would all fit the bill. 0–18, truebias.com MISSES' TOP…

TAILORING A JACKET Gill McBride (£9.99, The Crowood Press) If you're ready to progress from simple shift dresses and casual separates – it's time to stretch your sewing skills with tailoring. If even the thought terrifies you, rest assured this handy paperback includes everything you need to know to sew yourself a fabulous tailored jacket – from advice on pattern matching, to making welt and patch pockets, shoulder pads, collars, and more! MINDFUL EMBROIDERY Charles Henry & Elin Petronella (£17.99, Page Street Publishing) Right now travel is not an option for many of us – so here's the chance to enjoy Europe from the comfort of your hoop! Subtitled 'Stitch Your Way to Relaxation with Charming European Street Scenes', the authors have provided 20 scenes to stitch. Fear not if…

At first glance, the jump from publishing to sewing pattern design is not an obvious one. But chatting to Nina Lee – whose collections are inspired by culture, heritage, and women everywhere – all becomes clear. “My career in publishing had taken a turn away from the creative towards sales and business, and it just didn't really suit me,” explains Nina. “I was sort of floundering and my then-boyfriend (now husband) said to me 'What would you do if you could do absolutely anything right now?' and without hesitating, I said 'start a pattern company'. Within one month I'd handed in my notice.” Nina’s love of clothes was a seed sown many years before. “I'd always wanted to do something involving clothes,” she confesses. “As a child, I used to…

FLOUNCE SLEEVES Double-layered sleeves add extra drama to this design. HIDDEN POCKETS Princess seams conceal hidden handy pockets within. A-LINE SHAPE This casual silhouette will skim your curves for a comfy fit.…

As a child I was always creative and loved making jewellery, drawing, and crafting. It was when my mum bought a sewing machine when I was 11 that I fell in love with making clothes, it was just so much faster and neater than hand sewing! I loved art and textiles at school and ended up teaching myself how to sew before going on to do a Womenswear Tailoring degree at London College of Fashion. After university I ended up in a classic 9–5 office job and after a few years was looking for a way to reconnect with the creativity I had in my teens and early twenties. I still had my sewing machine and overlocker and started sewing things for my home and the odd things for friends…

The COVID-19 pandemic saw a surge in sewing machine sales. According to Esquire: “Google searches for ‘sewing machines’ jumped by 400% in the US, and John Lewis reported that sales of them had risen by 127% over April.” Partially due to people having more time at home to explore crafting as a hobby, but also due to face masks becoming part of everyday life. Mothers sat down with their children and taught them the ropes, pensioners dusted off their old Singers, but also a significant number of men decided to get behind the (hand)wheel. Throughout history, sewing has most definitely been categorised as ‘women’s work’. The fact that you are likely to be more familiar with the term seamstress than seamster (the male version), says it all. But the benefits…

1 Always mark your dart to get a perfectly straight stitch line. 2 Pressing the dart before stitching will ensure the layers stay in the correct position as you sew. 3 Tack your dart if you are struggling to hold the layers together as you sew. This can be particularly helpful so you can see what the design will look like on the right side once sewn. 4 Create a template using the straight edge of a small piece of cardboard. Align this with your dart leg line and presser foot to allow to you get a straight stitch line. 5 To finish the end of a dart, leave long thread tails then tie the thread ends together in a secure double knot. Alternatively you can reduce the stitch length…

YOU WILL NEED Navybluequilting-weightcotton 75x110cm (29½x42in) Patterned quilting-weight cotton: 50x112cm (19¾x44in) Scrap of mustard yellow fabric for the windows Scrap of teal fabric for the door Lightweight wadding: 50x55cm (20x22in) Approximately seven gold wooden star buttons (or similar) around 1.5cm (5/8in) wide Gold thread Length of dowel: 50cm (20in), 1cm (3/8in) thick Length of fine cord or yarn to hang: 75cm Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ Fabric dimensions are HxW. FABRICS USED Patternedfabric Art Gallery Fabrics, Winterberry Mist. Plain – Kona solids, navy. Both from CUTTING OUT Step one From the patterned fabric cut: Castle Top: nine 4.5x4.5cm (17/8x17/8in) A: two 4.5x14.5cm (17/8x5¾in) B: four 9.5x7cm (3¾x2¾in) C: two 17x14.5cm (6¾x5¾in) D: two 17x7cm (6¾x2¾in) E: one…

YOU WILL NEED Heavyweightnaturalcanvasforthe backing: 65x80cm (26x32in) Patterned medium-weight canvas: 70x100cm (28x40in) Light blue canvas or cotton: 10x25cm (4x10in) Scrap of double-sided interfacing Eyelets: two, 8mm Hammer, to attach eyelets Walking foot (optional) Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES Seamallowanceis1cm(3/8in). If you can’t find a heavyweight canvas fabric you can use a lighter fabric and add a layer of heavy interfacing. Use a walking foot if you have one to manage multiple layers. RS = right side WS = wrong side FABRICS USED ■ Vanilla Sky Canvas from the Wildlife collection for Cloud 9 Fabrics, misformake.co.uk CUTTING OUT Step one From the heavyweight canvas cut: Main Panel: two 62x37cm (243/8x145/8in) Step two From the patterned canvas cut: Pocket: three 32x45cm (125/8x17¾in) Step three From the light blue canvas…

YOU WILL NEED Tealplush50x40cm(20x16in) White plush: 25x28cm (10x11in) Orange plush: 18x10cm (7x4in) Aqua plush: 32x25cm (13x10in) Brown fur: 64x41cm (25x16in) Black stranded cotton Polyester toy filling: 250g Extra long pins Basic sewing kit FINISHED SIZE ■ Approximately 19cm (7½in) tall. NOTES Seamallowanceis6mm(¼in) unless indicated. Find the templates on page 82 or download and print them from Fabric amounts are to make the mother bird and both baby birds. Fabric measurements are WxH. Cut plush pieces with the nap running downwards, as indicated on the templates, except the Head Gussets and Beaks, where it should run front to back. CUTTING OUT Step one From the teal plush, cut: Body: one pair Head: one pair Head Gusset: one Outer Wing: one pair Step two From the white plush cut: Chest:…

This issue's cover pattern, the Verna Top, has an extraordinary person behind the name, Celesta Alverna White. Known to her family and friends as Verna, she was a designer and dressmaker who worked throughout her life to make stylish, wearable garments for clients in both Montserrat and in London. In 1972, Verna opened a shop called Celeste Fashion House in Montserrat. The shop was also a garment factory and took made-to-order commissions from women and men as well as making uniforms for local businesses. Verna inspired generations of her family to take up dressmaking, including Simply Sewing’s Technical Editor, Roisin, who is Verna’s niece and designed the Verna Top pattern in her aunt’s honour. "The design was inspired by the simple, elegant outfits that my aunt always wore," Roisin explains.…