Innholdsfortegnelse for 76 i Simply Sewing

We’ve all spent more time at home this year than possibly ever before, so we think it’s particularly important in these colder months to make sure we’re cosy. In this issue you’ll find makes for your home that will help you achieve just that. We also have two clever refashion projects to make a colourblock sweatshirt and a gorgeous coatigan that we’ll be wrapping ourselves up in for most of the season. Ahead of Christmas we show you how to naturally dye silk wraps for your presents and there’s an embroidered pouch that’s perfect for gifting. We can’t wait to see your Juliet Dresses and Kimmy Tops, too! WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

PETS AND NEEDLES We all know that our pets are the ones who really run our homes, and now you can make it official by embroidering their portrait on cushions, towels, bags, jumpers, scarves – the list goes on! What better way to show off your love for your perfect pooch! Learn how in the new book from Carol Tai of Hoop n Loop, How to Embroider Your Dog's Portrait. hoopnloop.co.uk LITTLE LADIES By Hand London has launched three new patterns for kids – and oh my, they're cute! The Little Hannah dress is modelled here, and they've also released the Little Anna and Little Flora dresses. See the range for tiny toddlers through to early teens at byhandlondon.com CLIPANDSEW W The latest thread pack from Gütermann creativ includes ten…

I have to say in all the Hollywood movies I did there were seldom opportunities to make children’s costumes, but there are three stories I do have that come to mind. Firstly, there was, of course, War of the Buttons for Warner Bros where 90% of the cast were children, all in Ireland. There was barely any sewing but weeks of trawling the charity and second-hand shops in Cork and Skibbereen. We also found the best little knitting shop which supplied so many Fair Isle jumpers knitted to our requests. In Interview with the Vampire, child star Kirsten Dunst wore some exquisite gowns designed by the uber talented Sandy Powell. One issue we did have was that in the crypt scene her character, Claudia, had to fall the length of…

1 SEA-BELL DRESS AND SKIRT This fully lined design from Papercut Patterns features bell sleeves, princess seams, and a centre-back invisible zip. It looks great when made up in bold lace fabrics and is gently shaped through the seams to allow for greater flexibility when fitting. papercutpatterns.com 2 TURNER DRESS This gorgeous dress from Cashmerette is available in sizes 12–32 and features a softly flared skirt and a lined V-neck bodice, alongside three different sleeve lengths. There's also a dedicated post on the Cashmerette blog all about how to add a lace overlay to this design – perfect! cashmerette.com 3 6540 SHIFT DRESS This dress from New Look is an above-the-knee shift design that perfectly shows off overlaid lace fabrics. Its simple shape is also great for showing off fabrics…

DOOR HANGER We all need a little time out every now and then, and even more so around the busy festive season. Get the message across loud and clear with this most-important embroidered door hanger to let those around you know you're off-duty. PATCHWORK CUSHION Make seasonal cushions a thing in your home and get sewing a winter patchwork cushion! New cushions make such an impact in a room, and now yours can help you declare that Sofa Season has arrived and you intend to be completely cosy. SOFA CADDY No more turning the house upside down to find the remote! Keep everything neat and tidy with a cute homemade sofa caddy. We love the idea of brightening up a plain sofa with some bold patterns for this. COTTAGE DOORSTOP…

This is a pattern you'll use again and again! With four sleeve options there's a Kimmy Top for every season, and you can easily adjust the fit and length to make lots of different variations. You can find plenty of inspiration for your top on Seamingly Smitten's website, too (seaminglysmitten.com) YOU WILL NEED WovenFabricSizesXS–M: 1.9mx112cm (2ydx44in) Sizes L–XL: 2mx112cm (2¼ydx44in) Sizes XXL–XXXL: 2.75mx112cm (3ydx44in) Clear elastic (optional): 1cm (3/8in) wide x 35–56cm (14–22in) depending on size (see notes) NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in). ■ Choose your size based on your chest measurement. ■ Finished length is approximate and measured from the shoulder to the centre back hem. ■ You can adjust the hem by adding or taking away length at the bottom of the pattern. ■ Elastic…

Sharing is caring The costume designers who worked on The Irishman actually reused costumes from Once upon a Time in…Hollywood. It was the right era and exactly what they wanted. Ageing well Sometimes costumes are bought brand new or made and then damaged and roughed up to give the illusion of general wear and tear over years. There are actual ‘breakdown artists’, as they are often known, who are employed to make costumes look realistic. Now there's a job! Pricey pieces The most expensive movie costume ever sold is the dress from The Seven Year Itch, worn by none other than Marilyn Monroe. It was sold for a whopping £4.2million. Extra, extra Every single woman in the Titanic cast wore a corset, even the extras. It was important for the…

YOU WILL NEED Floral patterned outer fabric, quilting weight: 30x50cm (12x20in) Plain lining fabric, quilting weight: 30x50cm (12x20in) Lightweight wadding: 30x50cm (12x20in) Embroidery hoop (7in or smaller) Zip: 22cm (8in) Stranded cotton to match or contrast with your fabric Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ All measurements are WxH. FABRICS USED ■ Essex Rose Green from the Chelsea Market collection by Blend Fabrics, visit: blendfabrics.com CUTTING OUT Step one From the outer fabric cut: Pouch Outer: two 28x20cm (11x77/8in) Zip Tabs: two 3x8cm (1¼x31/8in) Step two From the lining fabric cut: Pouch Lining: two 28x20cm (11x77/8in) Step three From the wadding cut: Pouch Wadding: two 28x20cm (11x77/8in) 01 STITCHING THE EMBROIDERY Take one of the Pouch Outer pieces and set…

YOU WILL NEED Orange cuddle plush fabric: 52x42cm (21x17in) Dark brown cuddle plush fabric: 40x27cm (16x11in) White cuddle plush fabric: 34x28cm (14x11in) Black wool felt: 10x6cm (4x3in) Green wool felt: 5x5cm (2x2in) Black stranded cotton thread Polyester toy filling: 250g Basic sewing kit FINISHED SIZE ■ Approximately 48cm (19in) tall. NOTES ■ Use 6mm (¼in) seam allowances throughout unless otherwise indicated. ■ Find the templates on page 80, or download and print from gathered.how/ss-templates ■ Fabric measurements are WxH. ■ Cut plush pieces with the nap running downwards for all pieces as indicated by the arrows on the templates, except the ears where it should run upwards. CUTTING OUT Step one Download and cut out the templates. Step two From the orange plush, cut: Body Back: one Body Front: one…

We may be stuck at home (again!), but I'm not letting them dampen my spirits. I'm using the build up to Christmas to get excited about me-made party frocks (see page 20), dressing-up for drinks with my gals over video call and the return of Strictly Come Dancing. Take a peek behind the scenes as we catchup with the costumiers behind some of TV's most gorgeous outfits. Talking of showbiz glam – we're thrilled to see our pal John Scott is back on our screens! See what his fans have been making on page 18 and find out about his new show at johnscottssewingworld.com. Until next time... keep sewing!…

Growing up in rural Cornwall in the 1980s sewing was always in the background. Poppy's mum worked on an old treadle sewing machine to make clothes from Clothkits patterns and she even did a bit of clothes making herself as a teenager, cutting up one of her mum’s original Laura Ashley dresses to make herself a skirt! But her passion was always for drawing and painting. It wasn’t until she was on an art foundation course that she discovered textiles as a subject and realised that she really enjoyed playing with texture and colour and combining this with illustration. She then went on to study textile design at art school and graduated in 1999. Poppy didn’t actually start sewing until after she finished her degree. She had seen freehand machine…

Learn a new skill from the comfort of your couch with these online workshops from some of our sewing favourites. FITTINGWITHJULIE:ULTIMATETROUSERS Sew Over It's pattern cutter and all-round sewing genius, Julie, talks bums and tums in this four-part virtual class all about fitting and adjusting the Ultimate Trousers. sewoveritstitchschool.co.uk STATEMENT SLEEVE MASTERCLASS Juliet Uzor is running a Statement Sleeve Masterclass so you can transform plain sleeves into knockout designs. Register your interest here to be notified of when the class is ready: sewsonatural.com SEW YOUR OWN SHIRT OR SHIRT DRESS Take your skills to the next level and learn how to sew your own shirt or shirt dress. You'll tackle crisp collars, buttonholes, and topstitching to produce the Rosa dress.tillyandthebuttonsworkshops.com…

The Juliet Dress, by Fiona Hesford (sewgirl.co. uk), is the epitome of femininity and guaranteed to become your go-to for special occasions. Find our top tips for sewing with lace on page 24. YOU WILL NEED Lining fabric (all sizes): Longlength31mx112cm (3½ydx44in) 2.2mx140cm (2½ydx55in) Short length: 2.7mx112cm (3ydx44in) 1.9mx140cm (2ydx55in) Net overlay fabric (all sizes, 140cm only): Long length: 2.2mx140cm (2½ydx55in) Short length:1.9mx140cm (2ydx55in) Sleeves: add 50cm (20in) Strong thin elastic cord or thread such as shirring elastic: 1m (11/8yd) A small safety pin or elastic threader Tacking thread and needle Fraystop or PVA glue (optional) NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated RECOMMENDED FABRIC ■ Lining fabric: lightweight woven fabrics such as cotton voile ■ Overlay fabric: sheer net/lace overlay FABRIC INSPIRATION DELICATE LUXE WEAR…

1 It was tough to pick a favourite fabric from Lace Lindsay – but we can't get enough of this sparkly star-covered mesh. lacelindsay.etsy.com 2 This lace design from Croft Mill, named And Then There Were Two, is ideal for springtime makes. croftmill.co.uk 3 This Dorris floral sequin tulle from Minerva will add the perfect fancy finish to any party dress. minerva.com 4 This yellow lace from Pound Fabrics is ideal for recreating a fun retro look, and it's a bargain too! poundfabrics.co.uk 5 This romantic fabric features colourful floral embroidery on a delicate black mesh base. myfabrics.co.uk…

Looking back, my transition into the wonderful world of sewing was organic and inevitable. When I started university, I worked for a high-end fashion store that required us to wear the clothes we were selling. So not only did I get to look at beautiful clothes all day, but I had a great excuse to buy and wear them. I had always enjoyed fashion and shopping, but this was the moment where I started paying attention to the quality of fabrics and craftsmanship. As a result, I started to really develop my style, but I quickly learnt that this didn’t really exist in stores. Working with a student budget and not finding what I loved in stores led me to discovering vintage finds and combining them with high-end fashion pieces…

Jenny Hall, the one-woman show behind Seamingly Smitten – a ‘something for everyone’, American online pattern shop and blog – is our kind of woman. Warm, friendly, and passionate about sewing and the creative community, it’s no surprise that she’s managed to turn her desire to create clothes for herself and her family into a thriving business. WHERE IT ALL BEGAN "MY GRANDMOTHER HAD A SEWING CLOSET THAT WAS JUST MAGICAL. I'ILL NEVER FORGET RUNNING MY HANDS ALONG THE SEQUINS OF THE GOWNS" Jenny first caught the sewing bug at a young age, when she and her sister spent summers at their grandmother’s house while their parents were at work. “My grandmother, Ona Claire, had a sewing closest that was just magical!” she smiles. “I remember opening it up and…

Sew slowly to prevent roping (the twisted effect often seen on hems). Once you get the hang of sewing with a twin needle you can speed up a little but keep things nice and slow at first to ensure you get the neatest finish. If you find your stitches are ripping out when the fabric is stretched you can try sewing with a narrow width zigzag stitch. Experiment on a scrap of fabric to find the stitch that works best for you – it's also best to raise and lower the presser foot a few times to ensure your needles don't hit the metal foot. As mentioned, you will need a twin needle specific to the type of fabric you are working with (denim, stretch etc.), as you would for…

YOU WILL NEED Three sweatshirts of a similar size and shape Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. MATERIALS USED ■ Sweatshirts not knitted jumpers. ■ Mix and match colour, print and pattern for a unique look. CUTTING OUT Step one Take the jumper that you would like to be your starting colour (in our case navy) – this will be the top half of your colourblock jumper – and lay out flat on a table. Cut the left arm off 10cm (4in) down from the shoulder seam and cut the jumper diagonally across the body from 15cm (6in) above the hem to the top right shoulder. 01 Step two Use this jumper as a template to cut your second jumper (white).…

YOU WILL NEED A few pairs of old jeans Lining fabric: 20x40in Webbing: 64in, 15/8in wide Denim sewing machine needle Ruler (or quilting square) Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 3/8in unless otherwise stated. PREPARING THE PATCHWORK DENIM Step one Cut twelve 5x5in squares from your denim. You could also cut smaller pieces and stitch them together to make a 5x5in block. If you are stitching smaller pieces together, remember to stitch them with right sides (RS) facing and press the seams open, then cut the block to size. Step two Lay out the blocks so you have a nice mixture of colour and there are four blocks per row (three rows in total). Step three Stitch together the three rows with RS facing, press every…

Thank you for making these projects from Simply Sewing. The copyright for these templates belongs to the designer of the project. They work hard to create projects for you to enjoy, so please don’t re-sell or distribute their work without permission. Please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Copyright law protects creative work and unauthorised copying is illegal. We appreciate your help.…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

These palazzo pants truly embody everything I've ever wanted in a great pair of trousers. I discovered the pattern about a year and a half ago when I was going to a 70s-themed birthday party and wanted to make something to wear that wasn't fancy dress – that I knew I'd wear again. I did end up hacking them to make the perfect pair of trousers for me. I have a much smaller waist compared to my hips, which often means that ready-to-wear trousers never fit me properly. I would always need to wear a belt as trousers would gape once they passed my hips and rear, spoiling the overall look of my outfit. Before I started sewing, I thought that this was a normal and acceptable thing, however, I…

FIONA HESFORD Fiona is the indie designer behind our romantic Juliet Dress on page 20, designed for occasions when you need something a bit special to wear. See what she’s sewing at the moment by following @fionahesford_sewgirl on Instagram. PORTIA LAWRIE We can’t wait to get making the cosy coatigan that Portia designed for us this issue. It’s just what we need to get us through these chillier months. Find the instructions for this patternless (even better!) project on page 54. JENNY HALL The high-low Kimmy Top included with your magazine comes from Jenny Hall of Seamingly Smitten. See our styling recommendations for this on page 44 and find out more about Jenny and her business on page 48. HAZEL ELBA This issue Sewing Bee’s Hazel tells us about her…

Cosy capes There's something so glamorous about a cape! Production Editor Emily chooses some faves. CHIC CAPE, SEW OVER IT This is such an elegant and cosy cape. It's got a lovely rounded collar and a press-stud front that's disguised with self-covered buttons. It's fully lined, too, to keep you nice and toasty. It looks extra stylish in tweed, but can also be made in boiled wool, boucle, and other wool blends. Available in sizes 8–20 from sewoverit.co.uk KEA CAPE, THE SEWING REVIVAL The Kea Cape is proof that wearing a cape doesn't have to mean you lose any shape! The Kea features a tie-belt waist for a flattering silhouette. The panelled cape  also features an asymmetrical hem that lowers at the back. We love the full coverage for extra…

MINI KINGDOM Olka Novytska (£13.95, Meteoor Books) This book comes from designer Olka of AradiyaToys (@aradiyatoys) and includes patterns to crochet 36 adorable amigurumi royals! Figures include the king and queen, prince and princess, a joker, fairy, a knight, a drummer, and even pets! There are step-by-step pictures and videos making this perfect for beginners as well as experienced crocheters. Find it at amigurumipatterns.net STATEMENT SLEEVES Workshop (£16.00, e-book) Add your own style to any pattern with the skills learnt in this book. You'll discover pattern cutting techniques to transform your garments with a variety of different sleeves, including puff, bishop, flared, bell, balloon, peplum, and flutter sleeves. You'll also learn about different sleeve finishes – cuffs, gathers, and elastic – so you can achieve a professional finish every time!…

MCCALL'S 7928 We adore the dramatic cut of this Nicole Miller dress from McCall's, which is fully lined to the bust to show off a stunning lace overlay. The back of the dress is left open and the yoke is cut on the scalloped edge of the lace, to make the most of the intricate fabric. sewdirect.com…

1 MAKE A MATCH One of the most important things to consider when creating a garment with an overlay is the way in which your fabrics will behave, and whether the two layers will work together. If your main garment is constructed from stretch fabric, make sure to choose an overlay material with equal stretch to go over it – if you try to layer a non-stretch fabric over a stretchy base, the two won't sit neatly and you may even find that your garment pieces won't fit together at all. 2 FLOAT OR FIX? Another thing to consider is the way in which you want to construct your garment. Will the two layers be fixed – meaning that they are stitched together firmly – or floating, with the overlay…

My inspiration pool is eclectic to say the least. I’ve taken a little from a lot of different places and saved them to my imaginary Pinterest board in my head (but yes, I do also love Pinterest). I love designers like Ellie Whittaker, Monika Forsberg, Ellen McKenna, Lillian farag, and jennifer Bouron. Bright, colourful, and always playful. In terms of style, I’ve always been inspired by Memphis style. A perfect combo of 50s kitsch, art deco, and pop art. For more modern inspo, I refer to Gorman, Obus, your, Ace & Jig, Horror Vacui, the sewing community, and my Family.…

YOU WILL NEED Medium-toheavyweightnon fraying) knit fabric: 2m (2¼yd) Tailor’s chalk or erasable fabric marker Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ The specific measurements given will give a finished garment that will fit a UK 10–14. For larger or smaller sizes simply increase/decrease the width of your rectangles. MATERIALS USED ■ Fabric is Pembroke Lilac and Pink Heathered Bouclé Coat Fabric. Visit: hantexonline.co.uk for stockists. CUTTING OUT Step one Fold your fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge. Cut a strip 20cm (77/8in) wide from the entire length of the selvedge through both layers (set this aside for your Shawl Collar strip) then cut your fabric into two 1m (11/8yd) lengths (set one of these aside for the Sleeves and Pockets). From the remainder, cut along the folded edge…

From the weather-worn outfits found on a farm to the spangly, show-stopping costumes destined for the dancefloor, behind every on-screen garment there is a dedicated team of pros ensuring there’s not a stitch out of place. Theresa Hewlett has a hand in crafting the legendary costumes that dazzle us on Strictly Come Dancing and Ros Little is the creative mind behind the latest uplifting period drama, All Creatures Great and Small. We delve into the fabric-laden worlds of these two costume queens, to find out what it’s really like working behind the big screen. SEQUINS AND SPARKLES AT STRICTLY Since 2007, DSI London has produced around 200 costumes per season for Strictly Come Dancing. The studio manager and pattern cutter at DSI, Theresa Hewlett, has a big part to play…

YOU WILL NEED Pongee silk: 55x55cm (22x22in) Large saucepan for dyeing Bowl of berries (we used blackberries but lots of others will give a red colour) Piece of muslin: 40x40cm (16x16in) Protective waterproof gloves String Potato masher Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ Colours we made: Pale pink brown: mulberry with a soya mordant Pale blue: red cabbage with a salt mordant Pale Mauve: red cabbage with a soya mordant ■ We used half a carton of soya milk to two cartons of water for the first mordent and then the same again for the second. PREPARATION Step one Wash your fabric to get rid of any finish in it, air dry. Step two For this project we used a…

YOU WILL NEED Linen fabric: fat eighth A4 felt sheet Quilting cotton: fat eighth Stranded cotton in red, white, and pink Embroidery hoop (optional) Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Fat eighth = 28x45cm (11x18in) ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates CHECKERED CHAIN STITCH Step one Thread a needle with two colours of stranded cotton and tie a knot at the other end. Come up through the fabric. 01 Step two Insert the needle in the same hole the thread came through, then bring the needle back up through the fabric a stitch length away. Wrap the first thread colour around the tip of the needle. Pull the needle through. You will need to pull the second thread colour a little extra so the loop goes down through the…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…