Innholdsfortegnelse for 71 i Simply Sewing

This issue is packed with projects for your home and wardrobe as well as some great reads, including our Sewing Bee debrief. It’s been another brilliant series, and although we’re sad it’s over we can’t wait to see what they all get up to next! Our cover project is the Lottie Dress from Sew Over It, it’s the perfect elegant and easy wear for warmer weather. We also have four other patternless garments for you to try. We love these because they’re super quick and versatile – and you don’t need to use a paper pattern! Find our apron, pyjamas, summer cover-up, and girl’s polo shirt dress inside. WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

VINTAGE GLAMOUR We're hoping to not need to wear this coat for a few more months yet, but it's so gorgeous we might have to start making it now. It takes a very special coat to get us looking forward to colder weather! The Juliet Coat from By Hand London is understated and elegant and is modelled beautifully here by Juliet Uzor. Find the digital pattern at byhandlondon.com LEARN A NEW SKILL As well as our Beginner's Guide to Dressmaking, we've put together the Beginner's Guide to Toy Making. This 160-page bookazine is packed with 29 projects from Jo Carter so you can make something special for loved ones big and small! Available now for £9.99 with free delivery from buysubscriptions.com/toymaking BOTTLE TO BOBBIN W With an increasing focus on…

We’re giving three lucky readers the chance to win a Clover sewing bundle! Each bundle contains a 45mm rotary cutter; a pom-pom maker set for four different sized pom-poms; a charcoal marking pencil set with sharpener; and a fusible bias tape maker for a bespoke finish. These simple-to-use tools are all designed to ensure accuracy and to help you achieve a personal and professional finish. For your chance to win, enter the competition at gathered.how/ sew_comps. To find your nearest stockist email Clover@stockist enquiries.co.uk and follow them @clovermfg for project inspiration and the latest releases.…

1 KEEP IT FLAT Lightweight woven fabrics are prone to stretching, so before you begin, make sure that the fabric you've chosen is laid out on a flat surface with no overhang. If the fabric starts to drop over the side of your surface it can pull and distort the rest of the fibres out of shape. If you don't have a table big enough to hold all your fabric, use a hard floor instead. 2 CUT WITH TISSUE Another often unwelcome characteristic of lightweight fabrics is that they can be very slippery to work with, making accurate cuts all the more difficult. Combat this by sandwiching your fabric between layers of thin tissue paper before you place your pattern pieces and cut, and making sure that you use freshly-sharpened…

RING BINDER Coordination is key in order to evoke desk envy. Who else will have ring binders that match all their other desk accessories? You're sure to get bonus points when they realise you decorated your binder yourself, too. BANNER We love the idea of a motivational banner to hang above our desk and brighten things up! What message would you print on yours? We think we might go for 'Just one more email and then you can sew...' BACKPACK Whether you're heading to the office, the shops, or off on a weekend adventure, a backpack is such a useful accessory. We love it styled in different fabrics too for an extra point of interest. LAPTOP CASE A laptop case is fairly essential, but there's no reason why something professional…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Light- to medium-weight woven fabric: 2.5m (2¾yd) ■ Elastic: 1m (1yd), 5mm (¼in) wide ■ Ribbon: 60cm (24in), 1.5cm (5/8in) wide ■ Paper for templates ■ Tailor’s chalk ■ Buttonhole foot for your machine ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Small (UK 8–10) ■ Medium (UK 10–12) ■ Large (UK 12–14) ■ Download the templates from www.gathered.how/ss-templates ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm (5/8in) unless otherwise stated ■ Clip the curves where necessary so the seam allowances lie flat and make sure to press your seams open throughout CUTTING OUT Step one Download, print and cut out the templates for the pyjama bottoms. Step two Using the templates, trace out your pattern pieces onto pattern paper. Step three Fold your fabric in half lengthways…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Various patterned fabrics: approx 2.5mx115cm (2¾ydsx45in) in total ■ Calico: 2m (2¼yds) for the inner ■ Hook and loop tape: 50cm (20in) ■ Beanbag filling: one large bag ■ Paper for pattern ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing NOTE ■ The instructions for the outer and the calico inner bag are almost the same except the top and sides of the calico inner is made in one piece not segments ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated ■ See more of Juliet's work on Instagram @juliet_bawden and at www.creativecolour.org MAKING THE PATTERN Step one To make the full circle pattern, draw a circle with a diameter of 68cm (27in). Step two To make the half circle template, fold the full circle template in half…

YOU WILL NEED For the key ring: ■ Fabric A: Small scrap of quilting weight fabric (for walls of house) ■ Fabric B: Small scrap of quilting weight fabric (for roof) ■ Fabric C: Small scrap of quilting weight fabric (for door) ■ Tape/webbing/ribbon: 6cm (23/8in) x 1cm (3/8in) wide ■ Small scrap of light wadding ■ Metal key ring ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit For the dish: ■ Fabric A: 40x25cm (16x10in) quilting weight fabric ■ Fabric B: 40x25cm (16x10in) quilting weight fabric ■ Stiff fusible (single sided) interfacing: 80x50cm (32x20in) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated ■ Measurements are WxH ■ Download the templates from www.gathered.how/ss-templates CUTTING OUT For the key ring Step one From…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Floral fabric: 67x50cm (26½x20in) ■ Dark yellow fabric: 22x30cm (7x12in) ■ Yellow fabric: 15x8cm (6x3½in) ■ Faux fur: 29x18cm (11½x7in) ■ Brown wool felt: 5x5cm (2x2in) ■ White wool felt: 3x3½cm (1¼x1½in) ■ Dark blue wool felt: 2x1cm (1x½in) ■ Muslin/fine fabric: 5x3½cm (2x1½in) ■ Dark brown stranded cotton ■ Extra strong thread ■ Polyester toy filling ■ Basic sewing kit FINISHED SIZE ■ Approximately 24cm (9½in) tall NOTES ■ Use 6mm (¼in) seam allowances ■ Download the templates from www.gathered.how/ss-templates or find them on page 81 ■ Fabric measurements are WxH ■ Cut fur pieces with the nap running downwards for the tail and upwards for the mane (indicated by the arrows) CUTTING OUT Step one Download and print the templates. Step two From the…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Linen fabric: 30x60cm (12x24in) ■ Quilting cotton: 30x60cm (12x24in) ■ Lightweight interfacing: 60x60cm (24x24in) ■ Embroidery hoop (optional) ■ Stranded cotton in a coordinating colour ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated KNOT EDGE STITCH Step one Work this stitch from left to right on a sewn edge or folded hem. Bring the needle out through the seam or folded edge to start the stitch. To the right of where the thread came out, go down through the fabric just above the edge, then come out through the edge. Keep the needle over the working thread.01 Step two Pull the needle through, but don't pull the loop of thread too tight. Step three Slide the needle…

"There are so many reasons why this Olya Shirt Dress is my favourite piece of clothing. The most important reason is that I feel it really sums up my work as a pattern designer. It's the physical manifestation of everything I like about a pattern – on the surface it looks like a classic shirt dress, but it's actually hiding some interesting style lines with its unusual sleeve. I always feel relaxed and comfortable in it, yet it still has enough formal details and features to make me feel pulled together and confident every time I wear it. It's made from a length of deadstock linen I bought for only £4. Using sustainable fabrics is really important to me and in terms of costs per wear it's really going the…

Hello, loyal readers. Thanks for sticking by us in these tricky times. We've faced many challenges working remotely this last few months (as I'm sure many of you at home have too), but I've taken great pleasure in using this time to collaborate in new ways. A huge thank-you goes out to all of our contributors who have gone above and beyond, turning their hands to photographing, styling and even modelling. Talking of which, I'm chuffed to have sewist, and pal, Lisa Comfort on our cover – a collaboration that speaks volumes in the power of working together in a time of crisis. Enjoy!…

Paulette is the voice behind the Petite Font blog. Her sewing journey was kick-started in 2016 after watching The Great British Sewing Bee on YouTube when she needed an escape from the stress of planning a wedding. But when the stress faded, the sewing stayed! Petite Font is another venture that began as a means to an end when Paulette needed an outlet for her energy, and another one that's stuck! It's Paulette's third blog and one that has become an active and valued voice in the sewing community. Paulette is one of the volunteers who helps run one of the longest-running sewing challenges out there. Sew My Style was launched in 2017 and was designed to raise awareness about the slow fashion industry and to encourage young women to…

LIZZIE PLEATED SKIRT With the weather improving, we're looking for some summery makes, and Sew Over It's pleated Lizzie skirt is just what we're after. It's a flattering and classic shape and a great skills booster, too.sewoverit.co.uk 1:1 PRIVATE SEWING LESSON Is there a project you're struggling with at the moment and would like some help with? Linzi is offering 30 minute 1:1 video call slots to help get you back on track.makeitstitch.com WARDROBE ESSENTIALS Make yourself a brand new wardrobe from scratch with the Basic Wardrobe course from Ark Defo. Check out the introduction to upcycling on their site, too.arkdefo.com…

If Pinterest counts as wedding planning, consider it well under way! With the way the world is right now, I’ll take my crafty distractions wherever I can get them. I got engaged in December and whilst we aren’t planning a big wedding, I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t already planning my dress. So, if Pinterest counts as wedding planning, consider it well under way! During these anxious times, I’ve found designing my wedding dress a really lovely distraction from everything, so I thought I’d share a little about what’s inspiring me right now. FABRICS FOR THE BIG DAY I always wondered whether making my own wedding dress would be something I wanted to do. Whether it would be too much work and would add unnecessary stress to the…

The biggest ever Bee has come to an end! It’s been ten glorious weeks of transformations, Patrick’s eyebrow raises, and terrible jokes from Joe, and, whilst the show is always a welcome return to our screens, I’m sure we can all agree this year's series could not have come at a better time. Our 12 contestants have kept us entertained and inspired with stunning creations, weird and wonderful transformations, and made to measures that fit with perfection. The Simply Sewing team have been finding it hard to pick a favourite week, so instead we’ve picked our favourite challenges. We loved watching the men's bomber jacket pattern challenge from week six; for the transformation it’s got to be the sleeping bag into food fancy dress, or the swimsuit and prom dress…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Pattern paper ■ Denim or other sturdy fabric: 1–1.5m (11/8–1¾yd) depending on finished length required ■ Medium-weight fusible interfacing ■ Cotton bias tape ■ Grommets (optional) ■ Topstitch thread (optional) NOTES ■ Take the following measurements: A) Bust point to bust point B) 5cm (2in) above your bust line down to your solar plexus C) Solar plexus to waist line D) Waistline to knee E) Across hip line to side of buttocks CUTTING OUT Step one Use a large rectangular sheet of paper (longer and wider than your apron will be).01 Step two Fold the paper in half lengthwise. Near the top draw a small rectangle against the fold that is the half the width of A + 1cm (3/8in) and the length of B +…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Dress or top to use as a template ■ Women’s polo shirt ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated ■ Stitch using a narrow width zigzag stitch or a lightning jersey stitch to retain stretch in your stitches ■ We used a polo shirt with some stretch in it to make the fitting process easier CUTTING OUT Step one Take a dress or top to use as a template and lay it on top of the polo shirt. Step two Mark around the template garment, keeping the shape fairly smooth (i.e no definite armholes).01 Step three Cut out along your marked lines, adding a little extra seam allowance if you want to be able to alter…

When you’re struggling to master a seam or a fabric isn’t playing ball, a specialist presser foot could be the solution. In this workshop we’re looking at the different types of presser feet for inserting zips. Zips are often the most feared closure for beginners but using a specialist zip foot can save you a lot of stress! Roisin talks you through four types of zip feet and how to use them. ZIP FOOT The zip foot is used to stitch dress/skirt zips in place. The foot is designed to allow you to get nice and close to the zip teeth. The foot can also be used to insert piping or to sew seams that are bulkier on one side than the other. The foot has a double bar so…

LISA COMFORT Our gorgeous cover project this month comes from Lisa Comfort at Sew Over It. Find the Lottie Dress on page 22, and find out more about the early days of Sew Over It and what the team has been up to during lockdown on page 26. ABI DYSON Abi runs a sewing, knitting, and crafts blog at What Abi Makes. She also runs an online shop selling labels, badges, tote bags, and more at Crafty Pinup. Read her column on page 46 where she talks about designing her own wedding dress! TARA VIGGO Tara is a pattern cutter and the founder of Paper Theory Patterns. After years spent working in fashion, Tara wanted to set up her own venture focused on slow and sustainable fashion. Read all about…

HOLYOKE MAXI, CASHMERETTE Choose from a maxi dress or skirt with this pattern from Cashmerette. Both options feature roomy pockets, a faux button placket, and princess seams. An elasticated back waist make this an easy fit and comfy wear, too. This pattern is perfect for light- to medium-weight fabrics, and we love it in this dreamy pink linen. Available in sizes 16–36 from cashmerette.com CHARLI ANNE WRAP DRESS SEW TO GROW The Charli Anne Wrap Dress is designed for effortless, everyday elegance. This dress works just as well as an occasion piece as it does for a summer's day picnic. Features include a flutter sleeve, maxi tulip hem, and front and back darts. There is a sleeveless option too. Available in sizes XS–4XL from sewtogrow.com.au TPC26 BIAS T-SHIRT DRESS, TREND…

HOUSE OF PRINT Molly Mahon (£16.99, Pavillion) House of Print is a modern, stylish, and practical exploration of the traditional craft of block printing. Written by self-taught textile designer Molly Mahon, the book explores the history of the art, the surroundings that inspire Molly's designs, and contains a practical guide to the tools and techniques needed to block print. There are five simple homeware projects to try, too. HOW TO SEW: WITH OVER 80 TECHNIQUES AND 20 EASY PROJECTS Mollie Makes (£9.99, Collins & Brown) This book from Mollie Makes is the complete beginner's guide to sewing. With more and more people taking up the hobby, it's the perfect time to gift this book to someone starting out. The 20 projects for home and wardrobe include fruity floor cushions, a…

LUCK OF THE DRAW A comfortable belted waist gives the design shape without feeling too restrictive. PERFECT DRAPE A gorgeous cross-over back detail makes the most of the fluid nature of lightweight fabrics such as rayon, silk charmeuse, and cotton crepe. PICK YOUR LENGTH The pattern can be used to create both a hip-skimming camisole top and longer length dress, perfect for a range of occasions. PENSÉE With a simple v-neck detail, delicate spaghetti straps and a draped cross-over back, the Pensée design from Deer and Doe is the perfect summer staple. Version A creates a dress with a cinched belted waist, whereas version B makes a pretty loose-fitting camisole with tie-side detail. www.deer-and-doe.com PATTERN INSPIRATION Stay cool this summer with our favourite lightweight garments – including dresses, jumpsuits, robes,…

Lisa Comfort is something of a household name among the sewing community. Her story began at the age of 11, when Mrs Robinson, Lisa’s childminder, taught her to sew. Growing up near York in the eighties and nineties, Lisa continued making her own clothes throughout her teenage years, loving the freedom it gave her. “I was really inspired by elegant, vintage style,” she says, “and definitely used to get funny looks walking around my Yorkshire village in my beret collection!” "I’M OFTEN DRAWN TO GORGEOUS OUTFITS IN FILMS, TV SHOWS, OR JUST THE WAY SOMEONE ON THE TUBE HAS PUT A LOOK TOGETHER" Lisa didn’t intend for her love of sewing to become anything more than a hobby, choosing to study languages at university. As part of the Erasmus programme,…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Patterned fabric: 50x40cm (20x16in) ■ Plain fabric: 80x50cm (32x20in) ■ Stiff fusible (single sided) interfacing: 1mx100cm (11/8ydx40in) ■ Cord: 75cm (30in), 3mm wide ■ Small nails or screws to hang ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated ■ Download the templates from www.gathered.how/ss-templates MATERIALS USED ■ New Horizons collection by Ali Brookes for Dashwood Studios visit www.dashwoodstudio.com CUTTING OUT Step one Interface the WS of 30x40cm (12x16in) of your patterned fabric and 60x50cm (24x20in) of your plain fabric. Step two From the patterned fabric cut: Kite Inner Upper: one pair using template A Kite Inner Lower: one pair using template C Step three On the plain fabric: Place the templates so approx 35x50cm (13¾x19¾in) of interfaced…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 1.5mx145cm (1¾ydx57in) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Sizes: 8–10; 12–14; 14–16 RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ We recommend using a light-medium-weight drapey fabric such as viscose, rayon, silk or crepe CUTTING OUT Step one From the patterned fabric cut: Back: 56; 60; 64x70cm (22; 23½; 25¼x27¼in). Front: two pieces 28; 30; 32x70cm (11; 11¾; 12½x27¼in). Sleeves: two pieces 28; 30; 32x60cm (11; 11¾; 12½x23½in) Binding: two 10x90cm (4x35½in) HOW TO MAKE THE COVER-UP Step one Lay front panels side by side and insert a pin 9; 10; 11cm (3½; 4; 4¼in) along the top of each panel from the centre front. Insert a pin 24cm (9½in) down the centre front edge. Join these marks with chalk and a straight edge and cut…

Add a kangaroo pocket, patch pocket or inseam pockets. You may be able to use excess fabric that you cut away from the original garment. Use a different shirt for this simple upcycle, there are lots of men's and women's shirts that could be altered for a child. A lumberjack shirt or sports team shirt would make a great dress! Use a lightweight polo shirt for summer. Adapt for winter by using a heavier weight shirt such as denim. Remove the buttons and add new contrasting or matching ones. Make sure that the new buttons are the right size for the original buttonholes. Adjust the length as needed, make the dress into a simple sleeveless summer top by adjusting the length, or leave it at its original length for a…

Always check which type of presser foot you need for your specific machine. Our machine takes clip-on feet which are common with modern electric and computerised machines. Some machines will have feet that need to be screwed into place and others will have a brand-specific foot type. Once you have attached your chosen presser foot carefully, turn the hand wheel towards you to check that the needle will not hit the foot when you begin to sew. Needle position can be adjusted on some machines, if you are unable to change the needle position you will need to use an alternative presser foot. Thread tails are the enemy of zips! Always trim any thread tails before closing a zip. If thread gets caught in the zip teeth it can damage…

You’ll find essential information, useful stitches and key sewing techniques on these pages. HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask…