Innholdsfortegnelse for 61 i Simply Sewing

What does autumn mean to you? For us it’s all about getting back in the kitchen (hello, new series of The Great British Bake Off!), packing away our summer wardrobes and getting started on some handmade gifts...because (you guessed it) Christmas is coming! In fact, we believe autumn is the best season of all for indulging in some quality time at your sewing machine. Add corduroy and velvet to your fabric shopping list, brighten up your home with zesty prints and delve into your scrap box to sew an irresistibly cute mini stocking advent calendar. Share your latest makes using #simplysewingmag WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

LUXURY LIVING Stoff & Stil's new collection is all about filling your home with plush textures, sumptuous colours and opulent prints for winter cosiness – think strokable velvets, textured cottons, tactile linens, super-soft faux furs and lavish botanicals. Fancy decking out your dining table like this one? They even offer a tablecloth sewing service. See more at www.stoffstil.co.uk SEW AND GO It doesn’t matter how many me-mades we add to our collection – some days, we still don’t know what to wear! Tilly is here to save us from wardrobe woes with her new Indigo Smock (Top and Dress) pattern, perfect for when we're in need of something effortlessly stylish. shop.tillyandthebuttons.com PAINTED PRETTIES When we’ve spent hours on a piece of embroidery, we want to show it off! So we’ll…

WIN: 15 METRE FABRIC BUNDLE Win a bundle of colourful Christmas fabric from Makower UK worth £210 When it comes to Christmas, the more the merrier, right? How about a whole 15 metres more? We’ve teamed up with Makower UK to offer-up this huge bundle of festive fabrics from their retro-inspired ‘Merry’ collection for one lucky reader to win! Makower UK are a leading supplier of premium 100% cotton patchwork and quilting fabrics and supply retailers and manufacturers all over the world. This, their latest Christmas collection, contains everything from kitsch reindeer silhouettes and retro baubles to dinky holly leaves, wrapped presents and glitzy snowflakes. And if all that wasn’t enough to get you in the mood for the brightest season of the year, designer Lynne Goldsworthy (of www.lilysquilts.blogspot.com) has…

Eagle-eyed readers will have spotted Atelier Brunette’s distinctive fabrics on the pages of this very issue (p39), and, with such striking designs and a range of equally aesthetically pleasing haberdashery items, we simply had to know more about the story – and the brains – behind the brand. "I HAVE ALWAYS LOVED MAKING THINGS WITH MY HANDS, SO CREATING AN ENTIRE OUTFIT FROM MY OWN FABRICS IS THE MOST FULFILLING EXPERIENCE EVER.” Paris-based Atelier Brunette was founded in 2013 by husband-and-wife team Annabelle and Rajeev; Annabelle is French, while Rajeev is Indian, and it was from their mix of skills and experience that the brand was born. “Atelier Brunette is based in Paris, but we also have a team in the Delhi region of India, where our fabrics are manufactured,”…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric A: 83x53cm (33x21in) ■ Fabric B: 38x53cm (15x21in), for the contrast centre strip ■ Canvas/heavy cotton: 137x53cm (54x21in), as a backing for the outer fabrics ■ Cotton lining fabric: 137x53cm (54x21in) ■ Sturdy woven canvas webbing: two pieces, each 1.6mx3cm (63x1in) ■ Basic sewing kit ■ Matching thread NOTES ■ Use a ¼in (6mm) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. ■ Measurements are width x height. ■ RS = Right side. ■ WS = Wrong side. ■ If you are using outer fabrics that are heavyweight you won't need to back them. FABRICS USED ■ Fabrics used are Liberty Tana Lawn. Fabric A is Mitsi Mustard, Fabric B is Mitsi Mustard and Grey. Available from Alice Caroline at www.alicecaroline.com CUTTING OUT The heavy backing fabric will…

As much as we may complain that the Christmas rush seems to start earlier every year, there's one thing we're never a humbug about: festive crafting! From handmade plushies to colourful stockings, we've got quite the sewing list already, and it's all thanks to the inspiring projects in this issue's Handmade Christmas book. There's eco-friendly wrapping, cute toys for the kids, and lots of ideas for decking your halls with handmade, including this future-heirloom appliqué cushion cover. Happy Christmas crafting, everyone!…

“DESIGNS AND MOTIFS HAVE MEANINGS AND ARE NAMED AFTER PERSONALITIES, SAYINGS OR OCCASIONS.” When we think of wax fabric, the myriad of stunningly striking patterns and palettes spring to mind. But look a little closer and you’ll find a complex backstory, with layers upon layers of history woven into each and every piece. While often referred to as ‘African wax fabric’, this style of textiles actually first originated in Indonesia – or the Dutch East Indies, as it was known during European Colonial times – in the form of traditional batik fabrics. The highly decorative, ancient craft of batik printing is a form of wax resist dyeing of fabric. Patterns vary depending on the regions they originate from, as well as the occasion they are being worn for and the…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Patterned quilting cotton fabric: 50x115cm (20x45in), for binding ■ Pre-quilted cotton fabric: 1.5mx115cm (1¾ydx45in) ■ Cotton fabric: 1.5mx115cm (1¾ydx45in), for backing ■ Bright cotton yarn ■ Set square ■ Cutting mat ■ Rotary cutter ■ Bias binding maker: 2.5cm (1in) ■ Large needle ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. ■ If using the pre-quilted fabric, make sure your backing fabric is at least 120cm (47in) wide so you can use its full width. FABRICS USED Leaves White-Botany by Rae Richie, available at www.thecrafty mastermind.co.uk Dauphine Jacquard Cotton from www.merchantandmills.com MAKING THE BIAS BINDING Step one Lay out the patterned quilting cotton wrong side (WS) up on your work surface. Use a set square and…

YOU WILL NEED ■ A mix of quilting weight cotton, adding up to a total of 75x115cm (30x45in) ■ Lining fabric: 75x115cm (30x45in) ■ White ribbon: 2.5m (2¾yd) x 3mm (1/8in) wide ■ Ric rac trim: 2m (2¼in) trim ■ Wood numbers: 1.5cm (5/8in) high ■ Craft glue and small paintbrush ■ Twine: 3m (3¼yd) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads MATERIALS USED Outer: From Tinsel by Clarice Gifford for Cloud9 Fabrics. For stockists visit www.hantexonline.co.ukLining: Flame from Kona Solids by Robert Kaufman. For stockists visit www.robertkaufman.comRed and White Wooden numbers and White Double Faced Satin Ribbon 3mm (1/8in), both from www.hobbycraft.co.uk CUTTING OUT Step one From the lining fabric cut: Stocking lining: 24…

YOU WILL NEED To make one tag ■ Linen fabric: 12x12cm (5x5in) ■ Quilting cotton: 7.5x5.5cm (3x2¼in) ■ Embroidery hoop ■ White Perle cotton thread ■ Thin cotton wadding ■ Eyelet and attachment tool ■ Ribbon: 20cm (8in) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTE ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads WORKING FLY STITCH Fly stitch makes a Y-shaped stitch, which can look different depending on the proportions. Step one To begin, come up through the fabric on one side of the top of the Y. Go back down on the other side of the Y, leaving a loop of thread on the surface. Come up at the center point of the Y, catching the loop of thread with your needle.01 Step two Pull the thread taut so…

"This is actually the second trench I have made using Named's Isla Trench pattern – anyone who has watched me on Sewing Quarter will know Named Patterns is my favourite pattern company at the moment! I demonstrate a lot of their patterns on air. The first trench I made was a conservative beige…this one is less conservative! I’m quite a colourful person so the bright yellow fabric really appeals to me. You need some colour in the autumn months, don’t you? I shortened it by about a foot because I’m 5ft and these patterns are made for taller people! I also chopped up the pattern to incorporate the two colours. I actually wasn’t sure it was going to look good until it was almost finished, and I had concerns about…

What's the me-made garment in your wardrobe that gets all the attention? We've had heaps of requests for a pinafore pattern over the years – so I'm thrilled to finally able to showcase our own take on this must-sew staple with three pocket options to try (page 32). You're going to love her. Talking of love, I can't get enough of Atelier Brunette fabrics (read more on page 36). Their breezy palettes are just the thing for winter styles – and we're onto a winner pairing them with this exclusive Nani Iro skirt pattern (page 39). Get in touch with your pattern wish-list... I'd love to hear what you want to be sewing next.…

Jeans Give jeans-making a try with Production Editor Michelle Grady’s faves. DAWN BY MEGAN NIELSEN I love a good-value sewing pattern, and Megan Nielsen’s Dawn pattern is certainly that! You get four staple jean styles in one, with tapered, straight, wide-leg and short options to make – I’m a fan of these cropped ones with a frayed hem. Find the pattern at www.megannielsen.com CASHMERETTE’S AMES JEANS As with all Cashmerette patterns, the Ames Jeans are all about the perfect fit; there are options tailored for apple or pear silhouettes, with two different leg styles plus a high rise and pocket stay for smooth shaping. And they have all the traditional jeans details such as rivets and belt loops, too. See more at www.cashmerette.com LANDER BY TRUE BIAS I’ve seen so…

HANGING LANTERNS Bring back memories of candlelit summer evenings in the garden with a boho-print hanging lantern. Made with two embroidery hoops and yarn hanging cords and lit up with a battery-powered LED light, it can be hung wherever you're in need of a little extra mood lighting – including the garden, when the warm weather finally returns. TABLE RUNNER The quickest way to decorate your dining table before the guests arrive? Just throw on this simple patchwork runner with a pom pom trim for an instant hit of colour and print. Its colour-block effect is created with pieced strips, sewn together with flat-felled seams for a super-neat finish. BANNER What better way to show off your stitching skills than with this slogan appliqué banner for welcoming family and friends…

4 Does anything beat the feeling of swishing around in something floaty, feminine and me-made? We don't think so – and this issue's Simple Skirt pattern by Nani Iro is made for swishing! With its soft gathers, flattering curved waistband, comfy elastic waist panel and easy-to-adjust length, this skirt is a dream to wear and a breeze to sew. From Nani Iro's new book, The Nani Iro Sewing Studio, the skirt is one of 18 timeless patterns to add to your capsule wardrobe,ll in the brand's simple, artful style. Find it at www.searchpress.com This pattern is from The Nani Iro Sewing Studio by Naomi Ito (£20.99, published by World Book Media). Available at www.searchpress.com…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Jersey roll-neck T-shirt in your size ■ Ribbing: 2-2.5m (2¼-2¾yd) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTE ■ As this is a stretch garment, if you choose to topstitch the ribbing in place use a narrow width zigzag stitch (ie. width 0.5mm, length 3.5mm). This will allow the elastic to stretch and will have the appearance of a straight stitch. MATERIALS USED ■ The ribbing is Cuff ME College White/Rainbow Ribbing from Wanderlust by Hamburger Liebe for Albstoffe. For stockists visit www.hantexonline.co.uk CUTTING OUT Step one Cut the sleeves to your desired length, making sure you cut perpendicular to the sleeve seams so that the sleeve hems will be straight. Step two Trim away the bottom hem band, keeping the scissors right up to the…

The joy of pinafore dresses is that they are both practical and stylish! Technical Editor Roisin shares tips for creating professional-looking patch pockets for your pinafore (p32). Patch pockets are a simple and effective way to add function to a garment, as well as being a fun design detail. The great thing about patch pockets is you can customise them to any shape you like – we’re dreaming of circular 1960s-style pockets, mini pockets to fit your train tickets in, or bold contrasting pockets to bring a bit of joy to a winter morning. Issue 61’s The Pinafore Dress pattern (p32) includes two different pocket options, and in this tutorial we show you how to add a kangaroo-style pocket to your pinafore for another way to style it. YOU WILL…

WATCH The new feature documentary, Wax Print, by Aiwan Obinyan takes a detailed look at the fabric’s history, telling "the story of how one fabric came to symbolise a whole continent.” A must-watch for any fabric fan. Check out the site for screenings in your area. www.waxprintfilm.com READ African Wax Print Textiles by Anne Grosfilley is a fantastic resource for any wax print enthusiast, offering an insight into the textile’s art, fashion and history, and is written by an award-winning author specialising in African textiles and fashion. So many beautiful patterns all in one book – a worthwhile purchase. www.prestelpublishing.randomouse.de VISIT Head over to Yinka Shonibare’s website – this contemporary artist uses striking wax prints in beautifully innovative and detailed art pieces. Some of these are on permanent display, such…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Heavyweight canvas: 1m (11/8yd) ■ Mediumweight linen: 1m (11/8yd) ■ Interfacing strip: 90cm (36in) x 2cm (¾in) wide ■ Cord: 3m (3¼yd) x 5mm (¼in) wide ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTE ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. MAKING THE DRAWSTRING BAGS CUTTING OUT Step one From the linen fabric cut: Large drawstring bag: two 36x26cm (141/8in). Small drawstring bag: two 27x21cm (105/8x8¼in). MAKING THE DRAWSTRING BAGS Step one Lay out each of the four drawstring bag pieces in portrait position. Fold the top corners in by 5mm (¼in) twice along the top 6cm (23/8in) of each of the long sides. Pin and sew these folded sections in place.01 Step two Lay the pieces out with the folded edges towards the top and…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

NAOMI ITO Naomi Ito is the artist behind the Nani Iro fabric brand. Over 180 fabrics have been created from her original watercolour artwork since the brand launched in 2002. See page 39 for The Simple Skirt from Naomi’s new book, The Nani Iro Sewing Studio. ALICE GARRETT Alice Garrett is the founder of Alice Caroline, selling Liberty of London fabrics, quilt and bag kits, notions, accessories and patterns. Turn to page 45 for her market tote bag project, made with classic Liberty prints exclusive to Alice Caroline. CLARE YOUNGS Claire is a designer-maker working with paper and fabric. Trained as a graphic designer, she began crafting full-time in 2009 and has since written a variety of books. Sew a Scandi-inspired stocking from her latest book, The Mindful Maker, on…

CREATE WITH CORK FABRIC Jessica Sallie Kapitanski (£20, Stash Books) Discover the many creative possibilities of cork fabric with this book from the designer behind Sallie Tomato patterns. Cork comes in a rainbow of colours, is eco-friendly and is easy to work with using your regular sewing tools, and Jessica showcases how versatile it is with 17 projects to try, including a stylish everyday backpack, geometric necklace, wall hanging and more. www.ctpub.com WHIMSICAL FELT EMBROIDERY Meghan Thompson (£16.99, Page Street Publishing) Add a touch of whimsy to your home with this book of embroidery hoop designs to stitch by Meghan Thompson (aka @oliveandfox), which pair hand-stitching with felt motifs. Meghan walks you through the essential stitches and shares her tips and tricks for stitching the book's 30 beginner-friendly designs, each…

This time of year is all about keeping cosy with stylish layering – and our cover-star Pinafore Dress is the ultimate mix-and-match layering piece! Colourful corduroy, classic denim and heavier-weight cottons are all ideal for this style, and you can customise it with the two pocket and strap options included for a different look. Would making pinafores to match every jumper in our wardrobe be too much? We think not. YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 2.7mx115cm (3ydx45in), 2.7mx140cm (3ydx55in) ■ Contrasting topstitch thread (optional) ■ 2 x buckle sets ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance throughout unless otherwise stated. ■ It is advisable to make a toile to check the fit and make any adjustments needed before cutting out your…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Reversible faux fur: 2m (2¼yd) ■ 3 x large snap fasteners ■ Bias tape: 2.5m (2¾yd), in a coordinating colour ■ A loose-fit denim jacket or a similar garment to measure from ■ Pattern paper ■ Metre ruler ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. ■ Wash the faux fur fabric before sewing to minimise shedding. ■ You will need more fabric if you would like the coat to be longer, or if you wish to make a size larger than a UK 16. ■ Make a toile before cutting into your faux fur to check the fit. ■ Sharp dressmaking scissors will cut through faux fur easily and prevent snagging…

YOU WILL NEED ■ 2 x large men's shirts (one that is a bit more fitted to make the top half of the dress and a very large one to make the skirt part) ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTE ■ Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. PREPARING THE SHIRTS Step one Remove any pockets from the shirts. Keep these in case you want to add them later. PREPARING THE DRESS BODICE Step one Try the smaller shirt on and mark your waistline on the fabric with an erasable fabric marker. Take the shirt off and mark 1cm (3/8in) further down the shirt from your waistline mark (for the seam allowance). Continue this marking all around the shirt, ensuring the amount…

1 If you are not confident topstitching a perfectly straight line, use a thread that is a perfect match to your fabric so it blends in. If you are unsure of which thread colour to use, go one shade darker than your fabric as this will blend in better than a lighter thread. 2 Follow the guide on your machine plate to get the distance between the pocket edge and the topstitching exact. If your machine's markings are unclear, use masking tape to mark your desired distance from the needle. 3 Pivot at the corners of the pockets to avoid distracting backstitching. Sew up until a corner then turn the hand dial so that the needle is in the down position in the fabric. Raise the presser foot, rotate the…

‘RECORD’ OR ‘PLAQUE-PLAQUE’ “In Nigeria,›the circular design reminded people of vinyl records. You can see me wearing this design on Sewing Quarter. It’s probably my best ‘make’ to date. I pattern-matched at the centre-front panels, back panels and sleeves. My mum calls this design ‘record’ and whenever she speaks about it, her eyes light up. I can see that the fabric takes her back to a time when vinyl was very much a thing and this bright fabric would have no doubt been a cutting-edge design at that time,” says Dovetailed founder Adaku Parker (www.dovetailed.co.uk) ‘THE HAPPY FAMILY’ According to the Vlisco website (www. vlisco.com), this design represents the archetypical African family: “At the center is the maternal figure, the chicken, surrounded by her chicks and future chicks, the eggs.…

Yes, all of us have one thing in common: an interest in the art of sewing. Now, whether you enjoy sewing as a hobby, or have dedicated your career to it, we are alike nonetheless. After all, at one point in our lives, we were simply someone who owned a needle. So, I am here to tell you my story – the story of how I went from that someone with a needle to the proud sewer I am today. Many years ago, in a small apartment, there were my three little girls; and while Daddy was away at work, I stayed home looking after them. But I felt that I needed something else in my life besides changing diapers: a hobby! I turned to hand-stitching; I made everything by…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 50x65cm (20x26in), heavyweight cotton ■ Contrast fabric: 20x50cm (8x20in) ■ Navy felt: 25x25cm (10x10in) ■ Transfer paper for dark fabrics ■ Rotary hole punch ■ Stranded cotton in navy and cream ■ Ribbon: 15cm (6in) x 1cm (3/8in) wide ■ Pinking shears ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads ■ The measurements and instructions are for the heart-motif stocking. The other stocking in the main image is worked in the same way – the small circles are made from the punched-out shapes from the hole punch. As in the heart motif, the holes in the centre of the flower motif start off bigger at the bottom…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…