Innholdsfortegnelse for 55 i Simply Sewing

Whether it’s sewing with a notoriously difficult fabric, hacking a pattern to fit you better or refashioning an old garment into something brand new... that’s what sewing is all about, right? Just going for it whole-heartedly and learning something new. “Don’t overthink it,” says Norris Dánte Ford, a creative individual who’s pushing the boundaries of DIY fashion for guys (see page 58). We’re not saying you should ‘wing it’ (Patrick and Esme certainly wouldn’t agree), but if you can try one thing that’s out of your comfort zone this month – do it! WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

To support you on your sewing journey, every sewist knows you need a machine that’s going to grow with you - and encourage you to take your hobby to the next level. Whether it’s dressmaking, home sewing, or quilting, the Janome M200 QDC will last you a lifetime. With more functions than a regular machine, the Janome ‘M Series’ have an impressive range of quality tools and accessories - such as this extended table, which you’ll find super-handy for quilting, or sewing with bulky fabric. Supporting you as you learn with 200 built-in stitches (including an alphabet and buttonholes), and an auto de clutch bobbin winder (easy-peasy!) you’ll be stitching your way to a handmade wardrobe in no time at all. Find out more at www.janome.co.uk, and enter our competition…

Packing clothes for your summer break is so much more fun when they're all me-made, right? If your holiday wardrobe is in need of a boost, though, you're in luck – The Leila Dress is super-comfy, super-chic, and super speedy to sew. With a relaxed T-shirt style, an optional tie belt and a chic faux wrap midi skirt that's sewn in place for easy wear, this dress is going to be our go-to outfit for holidays, barbecues and parties. We're going to need more than one, that's for sure! YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric, for all sizes: 3.5mx115cm (4ydx45in) 3mx140cm (3¼ydx55in) ■ Clear elastic or flexible seam tape: 9mm x 8m (8¾yds) ■ Ballpoint needle ■ Twin ballpoint needle ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRIC SUGGESTIONS Light to…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric: 2mx150cm (2¼ydx60in) ■ Ballpoint sewing machine needle ■ Rotary cutter and cutting mat (optional, see notes) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Using a rotary cutter and a cutting mat can help when cutting jersey. FABRIC SUGGESTIONS ■ Light to medium-weight knit fabrics such as cotton jersey, ponte di roma and viscose jersey. CUTTING OUT Step one Measure your waist and then add half on again – we used the following measurements: 66cm (26in) waist + 33cm (13in) = 99cm (39in). Step two Measure how long you would like the skirt to be, starting at your waist line. Step three Fold the fabric in half and, with the fold line at the top, mark out a semi circle which measures the total…

Bespoke, couture, made-to-measure – thanks to our sewing skills, they're all words we can use to describe our own wardrobe! And now we can add another unique-to-us creation to our collection with this issue's Kelham Skirt pattern. This classic A-line style by MIY Collection (www.miycollection. com) has a whopping 20 variations to make, with two lengths and pleat, pocket and waistband options – how you combine them is up to you! YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric: 115cm (45in) width x 2.5m (2¾yds), for sizes 1-5* 140cm (55in) width x 2m (2¼yd), for all sizes ■ Medium-weight iron-on interfacing: 25x90cm (10x35in) ■ Closed-end zip: 20cm (8in) ■ Bias binding: 3m (3¼yd) ■ Basic sewing kit ■ Matching thread FABRIC SUGGESTIONS Medium-weight woven fabrics such as denim, cotton, cotton poplin, corduroy and…

We might already have a collection of canvas tote bags – but none of them are like this one! This issue's Fold-Up Tote has a clever zip-up design: just fold it, zip it up, and pop it in your handbag ready to head to the shops with. This project will give your skills a boost, too: you'll learn how to add sturdy straps, a lining and that nifty zip fastening, plus a mini zip pocket perfect for stashing your shopping list. Pick a durable fabric like denim or canvas for a hard-wearing tote (all the better for filling up with fabrics!).…

@_SLOW_PROCESS_ Sam Zollman, aka www.slow-process. com, creates beautiful handmade menswear. His striped and floral shirts and denim jackets are really cool. @HARDENCO Producers of premier, small batch, denim, leather and canvas goods. Essentially functional workwear with a difference. shop.hardenco.com @_DONNYQ Donny’s collection of self-drafted and modified coats are a thing of beauty. Super-slick and great use of pastels. @MAINELYMENSWEAR Duane has a great sense of style and his Instagram feed also includes helpful hints. His choice of using bold patterned facing fabric on a pair of Thread Theory's Jedediah pants is gorgeous! SEW MACHO If you’re Glasgow-based, check out Sew Confident’s Sew Macho class. You’ll learn how to use a sewing machine, mend clothes and hem trousers and jeans. www.sewconfident.co.uk INTRODUCTION TO SEWING SHIRTS Sew Over It’s online workshop includes…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Outer fabric: 40x55cm (16x22in) ■ Lining fabric: 50x60cm (20x24in) ■ Gold washable paper: 30x45cm (12x18in) ■ Stiff interfacing: 35x55cm (14x22in) ■ Two 25cm (10in) gold teeth zips ■ Fabric clips ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT For the large bag. Step one From the outer fabric cut: Bag front and back: two 15x29cm (6x11½in). Zip tabs: four pieces, 6cm (23/8in) x width of zip tape – approx 3cm (1¼in). Step two From the stiff interfacing cut: Front and back interfacing: two 15x29cm (6x11½in). Step three From the gold washable paper: Bag base front and back: two 10x29cm (4x11½in). Step four From the lining fabric: Bag lining: two 23x29cm (91/8x11½in). For the small bag. Step one…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Cotton fabric: two pieces measuring 33x24cm (13x10in), see notes for details. We used Abstract Shapes from www.clothandcandy.co.uk ■ Beeswax block (or beeswax pellets) ■ Cheese grater (if using a beeswax block) ■ Baking parchment ■ Pinking shears ■ Paper clips (optional) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ If you choose to use a white fabric for this project the beeswax will give it a slight yellow tinge, so bear this in mind when selecting fabrics. CUTTING OUT Step one Using pinking shears, cut two pieces of fabric measuring 33x24cm (13x9½in) – this is a good size for a lunch bag, but you can adjust this to your preference. BONDING THE BEESWAX TO THE FABRIC Step one Using a medium-size hole on a cheese…

English paper piecing, known as EPP, is a traditional quilting technique that originated in England in the 1700s. It was the original make-do-and-mend of home crafts. Small scraps of fabric or old clothing were used to create large heirloom pieces that were warm, decorative and could be passed down through families for years to come. Put simply, EPP is the process of tacking a scrap of fabric around a paper shape. These shapes are then sewn together and when finished the papers are removed, leaving accurate shaped patchwork. Hexagons are probably the most popular shape, but many others are used, too. Once the shapes are made they are then stitched together randomly, or in patterns. In recent years, EPP has really grown in popularity. This wonderfully precise form of patchwork…

This month we've been invigorating our wardrobes ready for some sunshine... and boy are we ready for it! Transition from jeans to summer skirts with our maxi (p42) made using just your measurements and sew a wear-with-anything slouchy poncho (p55) for those days of unpredictable weather. Plus, don't miss Wendy Ward's A-line Kelham Skirt (p36), which comes in two wearable lengths and has pocket, pleat and waistband options to mix-and-match. Now, where did I put my flip flops... * GIFTS SUBJECT TO CHANGE. PAPER GIFTS ONLY AVAILABLE ON UK NEWSSTAND.…

We love having the skills to fill our daily lives with handmade joy, be it a useful tote bag, cushion or casual dress, so we can't wait to start making the projects in designer Svetlana Sotak's beautiful new book. That Handmade Touch (£23.99, Lucky Spool Media) features 20 everyday essentials for you and your home, all in her signature boutique-inspired style. This self-taught sewist first discovered the craft in 2011. “I was a stay-at-home mom, and while I greatly enjoyed being able to spend time with my kids, I also realised I needed to find something for myself that was fulfilling and enjoyable, but also something I could do while being at home.” Sewing was just the thing. “I learned from reading blogs, books, and mostly by trial and error…

16-19 MAY Quilts UK. Malvern Showground. Get inspired by the beautiful quilts on display, find new fabrics for your stash and learn new skills from the experts. www.grosvenorshows.co.uk 11 JUNE Quilt Basics: Jelly Roll Quilt. Backstitch, Cambridge. Bring along a Jelly Roll of pre-cut strips (or buy one from Backstitch's selection) and sew them up into a modern quilt at this three-hour class. www.backstitch.co.uk 22 JUNE - 22 SEPTEMBER Madge Gill. William Morris Gallery, London. A display bringing together drawings, large-scale embroideries and textiles by artist Madge Gill. www.wmgallery.org.uk UNTIL 1 MARCH 2020 Glove Stories. Fashion Museum, Bath. See exquisite examples of historical gloves from the past 400 years, including gauntlet gloves from the 1600s. www.fashionmuseum.co.uk…

PYJAMA SHORTS Sew cute-and-comfy pyjama shorts for summer lounging – all you need is a pair of PJ trousers or shorts that fit you to trace your own pattern from (and some pom pom trim, of course!). Now we've got the perfect shorts pattern, we'll be using it to whip up a chambray pair for wearing at the beach, too. PATCHWORK THROW Get a stack of statement fabrics at the ready: this throw's large- scale squares are just the thing for showcasing bold patterns, not to mention being an easy project for patchwork newbies. Frame your pieced-together prints with a contrasting bound edge for a professional finish. Of course, now we'll have to make a set of matching cushions to go with our new quilt, right? HANGING STORAGE From good…

When I started setting up Guthrie & Ghani, my fabric and haberdashery shop and sewing workshop, six years ago it was because I loved sewing and making my own clothes so much. I wanted people to get that same sense of joy and satisfaction from sewing; that sense of achievement you feel when you not only have fun doing the sewing part, but you get a lovely garment to wear at the end of it all, too. I had been contemplating a career change for a while and sewing had been a big stress-reliever for me, so I knew it would be able to help others, too. Self-care and looking after our mental health are so important and sewing can have such a positive impact on that. I know it…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Item to repair or alter ■ Sewing and sashiko needles ■ Sashiko thread ■ Sandpaper (optional) ■ Sewing gauge (optional) ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads ■ We used Olympus sashiko thread in #1 white, #20 black and #25 peach. HORIZONTAL ROWS CUFF Step one Cut the cuff or hem to the desired length, fold and pin then tack into place. Step two Create stitch guidelines using a ruler and erasable fabric marker. Our three lines are 3mm (1/8in) apart and start 3mm (1/8in) from the top of the cuff. Adjust the spacing and number of rows as desired.01 Step three Stitch several tightly stacked rows where you have marked, tucking the knots…

One of the many things this year's series of The Great British Sewing Bee has taught us – including the fact that clothes really can be made from just about anything – is that there's an increasing number of men taking up the craft of sewing. Historically, soldiers and sailors would make and mend their clothing out of necessity, but more recently sewing has become a valuable creative outlet, made even more popular thanks to GBSB, YouTube and social media. From bow ties, button-up shirts and simple T-shirts, to sleek tailored trousers and smart suit jackets, modern men's sewing is full of stylish possibilities. Norris Dánte Ford (www.norrisdantaford. com) is one creative individual who’s really pushing the boundaries of DIY fashion for guys. He’s gained a large following online and…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Men's shirt that fits you loosely ■ Top sewing pattern to use as a template, see notes for details ■ Bias tape (optional), for the neckline ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. ■ Choose a top sewing pattern with a loose, boxy silhouette. ■ We recommend reading the instructions through before starting on your top, as certain sections may differ depending on the sewing pattern and men's shirt style you have chosen. ■ The front of the men's shirt will become the back of the new refashioned shirt, and the back will become the front of the new shirt. CUTTING OUT Step one Begin by cutting up the shirt, close to the seam lines,…

Technology – love it or hate it, there’s no denying it has opened a whole host of doors for home dressmakers wanting to immerse themselves in their favourite pastime. Whether it’s meeting like-minded crafters on our Simply Sewing Facebook page (www.face book.com/simplysewingmagazine), losing hours of your day scrolling through all the gorgeous Instagram pages of your favourite designers, watching online tutorials to hone your skills or downloading amazing patterns at the click of a button, it’s never been easier to learn, be inspired and get creative. When it comes to digital patterns available online, Chalk & Notch’s (www.chalkandnotch.com)founder, Gabriela Longfish, is leading the way in style. Yes, it’s fair to say we’re obsessed with her oh-so-wearable and covetable designs for women and girls. Although not a natural sewer to begin…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric A: 1 fat quarter (45x56cm), for the upper face ■ Fabric B: 2 fat quarters (45x56cm), for the lower face and backing ■ Fabric C: 1 fat eight (28x45cm), for the nose and ears ■ Felt scrap: 5x5cm (2x2in), for the eyes ■ Wadding ■ Bondaweb: 10x10cm (optional), for the eyes and nose NOTES ■ Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance. FABRICS USED The fabrics are from the Sparkler Fusion collection by Art Gallery Fabrics. For stockists visit www.artgalleryfabrics.comFabric A: Starbright Sparkler. Ref: FUSSK-1308. Fabric B: Tree Farm Sparkler. Ref: FUSSK-1302. Fabric C. Chads Sparkler. Ref: FUS-SK-1307. FINISHED SIZE ■ Approx 45x33cm (18x13in). CUTTING OUT Step one From Fabric A cut: Upper face: cut one using the template. Step two From Fabric B cut: Lower…

1 LEICESTERSHIRE CRAFT CENTRE Our friendly venue in Market Harborough offers the widest range of sewing and craft workshops in the East Midlands. Classes are available for all abilities, and we cater for hen parties, groups and corporate events too. leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk 2 BAGSBYCARMEN BagsbyCarmen runs small friendly and relaxed sewing workshops in Milton Keynes. Offering bag making and various sewing projects for all abilities with step by step help all the way. bagsbycarmen.com 3 GATHER ‘N’ SEW Take a peek at the wide range of popular workshops that we run, from dressmaking to bags, sewing techniques to patchwork. Exciting new workshops will be added throughout the year. Why not join us! gathernsew.co.uk 4 BOBBIN SEWING SCHOOL Bobbin welcomes you to enjoyable small friendly workshops and courses…

PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. TAILOR’S CHALKS Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches. HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a…

KATARINA ROCCELLA Katarina Roccella is an artist and textile designer for Art Gallery Fabrics. She works in a variety of creative mediums, including calligraphy, linoleum printing, illustration, photography and sewing. Try her bright patchwork cushion project on page 32. WENDY WARD Wendy’s sewing pattern brand, MIY Collection, is designed to enable makers to create everyday go-to garments, and she has also written three bestselling sewing books. Sew her staple Kelham A-line skirt (with 20 ways to make it!) on page 48. AMANDA WYATT Amanda Wyatt is a trained teacher with over 17 years’ worth of experience. She teaches weekly sewing workshops and is the co-owner of a fabric and haberdashery shop and blog, The Sewcial Studio. Sew her patternless poncho on page 55. ALISTAIR MACDONALD Alistair set up his own…

WORTH THE WEIGHT Make a set of handy sewing helpers using one fat quarter or scraps with the free tutorial at www.simplysewingmag.com KARRI ON The panelled Karri dress gives you the chance to play with pattern and colour blocking, and is super-flattering, too. From www. megannielsen.com TO INFINITY Need a last-minute gift? Raid your offcuts stash and make this stylish patchwork infinity scarf with the how- to at www.simply sewingmag.com IN BRIEF Transform your jersey scraps into cute undies with the Nixie Briefs, with two styles to make. Visit www. jenniferlauren handmade.store JEAN GENIUS Named's Maisa is perfect for denim remnants (even the sample is made in offcuts!) and you'll wear it for years. From www.named clothing.com…

YOU WILL NEED For one cushion: ■ Fabric A: 1 fat eight (28x46cm) ■ Fabric B: 1 fat quarter (46x57cm) ■ Fabric C: 24x45in (60x115cm) ■ Fabric D: 1 fat eight (28x46cm) ■ Fabric E: 1 fat eight (28x46cm) ■ Mediumweight, one-sided fusible interfacing or wadding: 16x16in (41x41cm) ■ Cushion insert: 15x15in (38x38cm) ■ Pom pom or decorative trim: 65in (2 yds) ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED The fabrics used are from the Skopelos, AvantGarde, and Imprint collections by Katarina Roccella for Art Gallery Fabrics. For stockists visit www.artgalleryfabrics.com ■ Fabric A: Paprounes Crimson. ■ Fabric B: Uninhibited Fashion. ■ Fabric C: Steps Above Prism. ■ Fabric D: Greeka Fouxia. ■ Fabric E: Morse Dot Sun. NOTES ■ Use a 5mm (¼in)…

1 Use the correct needle for the fabric you are sewing, e.g. a ballpoint for stretch fabrics, sharps for fine fabrics and jeans needles for denim. 2 If your machine comes with a clip-on collection tray use it help to prevent scraps of fabric creating a mess! 3 Use the correct size tool to change the needle on your overlocker. Using the wrong tool can damage the screw. 4 Keep thread snips or small scissors handy to trim excess threads. 5 If you are using two needles in your machine always use the same size and type of needle for both the left and right needles. Using different needles will affect the stitch quality and could cause your fabric to snag.…

I love the Megan Nielsen Dawn jeans pattern and we have the perfect non-stretch denim in the shop to make them. I’m also seeing coral colours everywhere and so couldn’t resist making a pair of new trainers ( left) using the Sneakerkit soles we stock and run workshops with. Animal print isn't usually my style, but I love these metallic accented leopard-print jerseys we are stocking in the shop at the moment.…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 50x150cm (20x60cm) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit Designer Amanda says: “This poncho is one of those garments that has so much versatility and scope, taking you through every season with style and comfort.” NOTES ■ Use a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance. ■ If you wish to make a smaller or larger poncho, do this by increasing or decreasing the depth by 5cm (2in) increments. SUGGESTED FABRICS Linen knits, cotton knits, sweater knits, linen, cotton rayon and any other fabric with drape. MAKING THE PONCHO Step one Measure across your body, from shoulder to shoulder. Double this measurement and, starting from the right-hand edge, mark this length along the top edge of fabric. Step two Take the top corner of the right-hand short…

1 THE FOREMAN JACKET BY MERCHANT & MILLS Inspired by traditional workwear of the early 1950s, this boxy-cut, unlined, practical jacket can be made in a variety of fabrics, including canvas, denim, moleskin or wool. Go to www.raystitch.co.uk 2 COLETTE PATTERNS' ALBION COAT A classic unisex duffle-style coat with toggles, yoke details and a three-piece hood. Make it in wool coating or a waxed canvas for a gorgeous finish. Visit www. colettepatterns.com 3 SIMPLICITY 8613 A raglan-sleeve men’s T-shirt pattern by MimiG for Simplicity, even featuring Norris on the packaging! It includes options to mix and match in different ways, with two sleeve lengths and three neckline styles. Go to www.sewdirect.com 4 COLETTE NEGRONI SHIRT This button-up shirt is a classic design with a vintage twist and a modern cut…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Cotton fabric, for the backing (see instructions for details) ■ Scrap fabrics, for the patchwork ■ Stranded cotton ■ Embroidery needle ■ Wooden dowel ■ Rope ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads Step one Cut a piece of plain fabric in your desired banner shape and size. Press the fabric flat. Double-fold the edges, pressing each fold. Sew the sides and bottom of the banner 01 Step two Place the banner right side (RS) down on a flat surface. Place the dowel at the top of the banner and fold the top edge over the dowel. Pin the fabric into place and remove the dowel. Sew along the pinned line – this will create a channel for…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Linen fabric: 20x20cm (8x8in), see notes for details ■ Wool felt: 10x15cm (4x6in) ■ Embroidery hoop ■ Stranded cotton in dark grey and purple ■ Snap fastener ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. ■ More linen will be required if you are using a large embroidery hoop. ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads WORKING COUCHING STITCH Step one Couching stitch uses two working threads. With the first thread, which will go along the line of your pattern, come up at one end of the line and down at the other end. If you are forming a complete shape, go down at the starting point. Keep this thread loose so you can shape it along the line…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric A: 20x40cm (8x16in) ■ Fabric B: 20x40cm (8x16in) ■ Fabric C: 20x40cm (8x16in) ■ Foam: 82x3cm (32¼x1¼in), 1cm (½in) thick ■ Double-faced satin ribbon: 1m (39½in) x 2.5cm (1in) wide ■ Card, for the templates ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing paper NOTES ■ You may need more fabric if your hanger is slightly longer; simply continue by adding triangles. ■ The fabric quantity given is to cover a hanger 38cm long and 1cm thick (15inx½in). ■ You can use the same EPP technique to make a matching hanging scent sachet to fill with lavender. Cut 12 half-hexagons and whip stitch them together following the top triangle diagram, then sew together to create a pyramid.02 ■ Download the templates for the hanger and scent sachet…

SOUTH SEW BUSY Stockists of Makower, Robert Kaufman, Clothworks and Windham, ribbons, haberdashery, sewing goods and classes. sew-busy.co.uk SOUTH WEST SEW AND FABRIC Family-run fabric & haberdashery, quality dressmaking & craft fabrics as well as lessons – now stocking new Liberty cotton collection. 01726 75385 SOUTH WEST BECKFORD SILK Silks & velvet. Natural, printed and dyed. Small quantities at wholesale prices. 01386 881 507 beckfordsilk.co.uk WEST MIDLANDS HOUSE OF SMOCKING Exclusive Swiss fabrics, piques, batistes, sea island lawns and wool blanketing. Patterns, transfer dots, mini piping, kits, tuition in hand smocking. Code SS05. houseofsmocking.co.uk WEST MIDLANDS ONLINE FABRICS Largest selection of textiles at your fingertips. Samples available of our whole range. No minimum order level. online-fabrics.co.uk  • 02476 687 776 EAST GATHER ‘N’ SEW Whatever your project, we have a wonderful…