Innholdsfortegnelse for 45 i Simply Sewing

One of the things we love most about dressmaking is the power it gives us to stitch up the latest trends, but sometimes our look (and our sewing machine) is just crying out for a vintage style to add to our me-made repertoire. Something timeless and swirly that we can wear to any occasion and make over again in all our favourite fabrics. This month’s cover star, The Evelyn Dress, is that frock. Inspired by 1940s tea dresses, it features a full skirt and an elasticated waist for a flattering silhouette plus two different lengths and retro shaped collars to try. Share photos of your finished Evelyn dress with us using #simplysewingmag and don’t forget to give us a twirl!…

When you next find yourself stuck for stitching ideas, a scroll through textile artist Emma Giacalone's Instagram feed is the perfect remedy for creative block. Her freehand embroidery pieces are not only beautifully stitched, but also feature motivational words that are sure to have you firing up your sewing machine (and treating yourself to something from her online store of lovely stitched art). Making a business from her stitching was a happy accident. "I posted a picture I'd made on Facebook and someone asked to buy it, someone else asked me to make something similar and it’s snowballed from there," she explains. "It built through word of mouth and fit around childcare while my children were smaller. Then, when my youngest started school a few years ago, I launched my…

2 AUGUST How to Draw Like a Fashion Designer. Dovecot Studios, Edinburgh. Learn tips and tricks for sketching your projects with Fashion & Textile Museum curator Dennis Nothdruft. www.dovecotstudios.com 2 AUGUST Sustained Ephemerality. Southampton Solent University. A free-to-attend fashion show featuring live music, film and dancers to raise awareness of sustainable fashion. 9-12 AUGUST The Festival of Quilts. NEC, Birmingham. See over 1000 quilts on display and stock up on supplies at Europe's leading quilting show. www.thefestivalofquilts.co.uk 30 AUGUST-1 SEPTEMBER West Country Quilt & Textile Show, Bristol. Get inspired at this mixed-textile event with plenty of fabric-shopping opportunities. www.westcountryquiltshow.co.uk…

THE PASTEL EDIT Ribbons, threads, fabric and trims... colour coordinated stash makes our heart sing, and even more so if the theme is pretty pastel hues! Grouping our sewing goodies by shade makes for easy inspiration when planning projects, and allows us to see what we might be missing from our supplies so that we can stock up before our sewing mojo hits. Which is why we’re putting in an order with Sewing Quarter for a some new pastel habby to help revive our ever-growing stash. If you’re following suit, don’t forget to enter the code SS20 at the checkout to receive 20% off pre-cut fabrics with your first order (T&Cs apply*). Available at www.sewingquarter.com LIVE everyday 8am - 12 noon · FREEVIEW CHANNEL 73 · SKY…

CUSHION Are you sitting comfortably? Probably not if you're anything like us, prioritising stitching over correct posture! We've spent many hours hunched over our sewing machines, in-progress projects and embroidery hoops, but now we're taking some time out to sew a beautiful cushion for ourselves (and our poor backs) for a cosier crafting experience. Its simple geo design is on-trend, so why not stitch a few for fellow crafters and friends' sofas, too? MAGAZINE RACK Wondering what to sew next? Inspiration will come sooner than you think if you have a display of your fave sewing mags, swatch cards and patterns catching your eye! This wall-mounted magazine holder will add a splash of colour and print to your walls, whilst keeping your latest issues of Simply Sewing neat and tidy…

YOU WILL NEED • A T-shirt that fits you • Medium-weight jersey: 145cm (57in) width x 2.5m (2¾yds) • Patternmaking supplies • Ballpoint or jersey sewing machine needle • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit NOTE • When sewing knit fabric, either stitch with a small machine zigzag stitch or use an overlocker. Finish the raw edges on seams as you go. CREATING THE BODY PATTERN Step one Fold your T-shirt in half lengthways, aligning shoulder, sleeve and side seams, with the T-shirt front uppermost. Pin the two layers together to stop them from shifting. Step two Draw a long straight line on your paper – this will be your centre front (CF) and centre back (CB) line. Step three Place the long edge of your folded T-shirt against the…

"I’m really enjoying the 1990s sportswear/ high-fashion crossover." "I love midi dresses that verge on maxis – they are comfortable and chic." For the past couple of years I’ve done the #makenine challenge, which takes the start of a new year as an opportunity to plan projects for the next 12 months. After reflecting on my year of sewing at the start of 2018, though, I realised that planning in this way left me a little adrift and directionless after the first few months of the year had passed. Many of my most-worn makes were born from sudden inspiration rather than long-term planning. Still, my brain loves to create sewing plans, I literally can’t stop it, so this year I’m experimenting with making new plans every three months, taking the…

YOU WILL NEED • Fabric A: 40x40cm (16x16in) • Fabric B: 30x40cm (12x16in) • Fabric C: 50x60cm (20x24in) • Iron-on interfacing: 26x19cm (10¼x7½in) • Iron-on wadding: 17x24cm (6¾x9½in) • 2 metal zips: 13cm (5¼in) • Clear vinyl: 9.5x6.5cm (3¾x25/8in) • Leather: 3x40cm (1¼x16in) • 2 medium screw-in rivets • Leather hole punch • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED The fabrics are from The Denim Studio collection by Art Gallery Fabrics. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.ukFabric A: Painterly Wash. Fabric B: Fading Darts. Fabric C: Indigo Shadow Solid Smooth. NOTES • Download the template from www.simplysewingmag.com/downloads • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Download, print and cut out the template for the outer trim. Cut out the central rectangle to make a…

YOU WILL NEED • Fabric: 3 fat quarters, for large or small bowl • Bondaweb: 40x40cm (16x16in), for large bowl; 25x40cm (10x16in) for small bowl • Wadding: 40x40cm, (16x16in) for large bowl; 25x40cm (10x16in) for small bowl • A4 card: 2 sheets, for large or small bowl • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit NOTE Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/downloads CUTTING OUT Step one Download, print and cut out the templates. There is a set of four templates for the large bowl and a set of four templates for the small bowl. The cutting out details and instructions are the same for both bowls. Step two Each template has an outer cutting line and an inner cutting line. The outer line is for the fabric and the inner line is…

YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: 50x75cm (20x30in), for the main body • Contrast fabric: 42x42cm (16½x16½in), for the underside • Pair of 12mm plastic safety eyes • White felt: 18x18cm (7x7in) • Polyester toy filling • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Reptile in Holly. From Gleaned by Carolyn Friedlander for Robert Kaufman. Linea Texture in Green. From Makower. FINISHED SIZE Approx 50cm (19¾in) long. NOTES • Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/downloads • The seam allowance is 5mm (¼in) unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Download, print and cut out all the template pieces. The templates include seam allowances where necessary and the arrows indicate the print direction for marking and cutting out. Step two The notches are used to match pieces when stitching together, so…

JEN HEWETT Jen is a San Francisco-based printmaker and surface designer. She has taught block-printing through in-person and online classes since 2014 and is the author of Print Pattern Sew . Print and sew a stylish boxy top from her book on page 39. LOUISE KELLY Louise Kelly is a dog-lover, felt hoarder and doll-maker based in Derry, Ireland. She sells her beautiful handmade dolls on Etsy and is the author of Sew Your Own Dolls. She shares what we can expect from her new book on page 70. DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER Norfolk-based Debbie is an avid maker and blogger and the author of two craft books. You can read all about her latest sewing projects at sallyandcraftyvamp.blogspot.co.uk. Turn to page 55 to make her everyday purse in denim prints.…

PRINT PATTERN SEW Jen Hewett (£25, Roost Books) Print and stitch a whole wardrobe of custom garments to suit your style with Jen Hewett's inspiring book, featuring step-by-steps for carving motifs from soft blocks and printing your own pattern repeats, along with full-size patterns for 13 garments to make with your printed fabrics. Psst! Make the boxy top from the book on page 39. www.roostbooks.com SEW CREATIVE Jennifer Pol Colin (£16.99, FunStitch Studio) Get the next generation of stitchers excited about sewing with Jennifer Pol Colin's book of kid-friendly makes that'll teach them new skills, including how to stitch a mermaid-tail blanket and donut pillow. The projects are easy to customise too, making this book an ideal crafternoon companion. www.ctpub.com BOOK OF EMBROIDERY Royal School of Needlework (£25, Search Press)…

YALETOWN DRESS & BLOUSE Flutter sleeves, a faux-wrap front and two styles to sew make Yaletown a stash must- have. £13.43, www.sewaholicpatterns.com SIMPLICITY 6493 Play with your summer look with this cute wrap playsuit pattern, which includes a dress, too. £6.95, www.simplicitynewlook.com LAKESIDE PJS Up your pyjama game with this pretty cross-over back cami that'll keep you cool on hot summer nights. £14, www.grainlinestudio.com CITY STROLL WRAP SKIRT Liesl + Co's chic- and-simple City Stroll skirt is all the excuse we need to book a city break. Approx £10, www.oliverands.com APPLETON DRESS This slinky jersey wrap dress' clever neckband means no gaping at the bust – hurrah! Approx £14, www.cashmerette.com…

Creating chic, elegant sewing patterns for the modern woman, I AM Patterns is our go-to for effortlessly French sewing styles, from dresses and tops to sweatshirts and dungarees. We’ve teamed up with the lovely folk at Backstitch, who are proud stockists of the brand, to give away three sets of patterns worth £45 each. Each of the lucky winners will receive three I AM Patterns – Orion (a stylish dress and top), Venus (a double collar summer frock) and Chouette (a polo shirt and bodysuit). Enter at www.simplysewingmag.com and head to www.backstitch.co.uk to browse the range. See www.simplysewingmag.com  to enter today! (UK only, see competition rules on p6.)…

Be it a special occasion or just a spell of sunny weather, we'll take any excuse to stitch ourselves a new floral frock – especially one with as many pretty vintage-inspired details as this issue's cover star! The Evelyn Dress harks back to the timeless styles of the 1940s with her neat collar (with two styles to stitch!), classic button-up bodice and swishy skirt. We've gone all-out feminine with Liberty prints for a retro look to dress up or down – just switch up your sandals for heels, and you're tea-party ready! YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: Dress A: 140cm (55in) width fabric x 2.3m (2½yds) for all sizes Dress B: 140cm (55in) width fabric x 2.6m (3yds) for all sizes • Lightweight interfacing: 60cm (24in) • Elastic 1cm…

YOU WILL NEED • Plastic headband • Fabric: see instructions for details • Textile glue • Basic sewing kit NOTE • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance. MAKING A TEMPLATE Step one Measure the length of your headband from one end to the other. Step two Draw a rectangle measuring 15cm (6in) wide and the length of your headband onto a piece of paper. Step three Cut this rectangle out along the drawn lines to use for your template. CUTTING OUT Step one Pin the template to your fabric and cut around it. Step two Cut two pieces of fabric that measure 4x5cm (15/8x2in) each – this is for covering the headband ends. MAKING A FABRIC TUBE Step one Fold the fabric rectangle in half lengthways with right sides (RS)…

Creating objects from scratch will forever fascinate me, and I find materials – not just fabric – very inspiring. Architecture and furniture excite me as much as fashion, so I decided to open up my creative possibilities by attending a woodwork workshop at Blackhorse Workshop in Walthamstow. I’m also looking forward to the Fstival of Stuff at the Institute of Making, which celebrates ‘finishing’ techniques of all sorts of materials. 3D construction is keeping my creative juices alive!…

“EVERYTHING WAS A CHALLENGE. OVERCOMING IT? YOU JUST WORK HARD AND FIND YOUR OWN WAY." For most people, doing what you love for a living sounds like a dream come true, but how do you make it a reality? Well, whether you decide to jump in feet first (not for the faint-hearted!) or build your venture up gradually, some things are for certain: it’ll take a lot of hard work, dedication and courage to get started. In the beginning, it’s important you settle on the specifics of your business: what is your idea, who is your target customer and what competitors are currently out there? Doing this groundwork early on will save you from wasting precious time and money, as Jenny Rushmore of pattern brand Cashmerette (www.cashmerette.com) tells us: “If…

YOU WILL NEED • One fabric layer cake • Background fabric: 150x112cm (60x44in) • Backing fabric: 140x140cm (55x55in) • Wadding: 140x140cm (55x55in) • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a ¼in seam allowance throughout. • HST = half square triangle. • WOF = width of fabric. • A layer cake is a selection of fabric squares, designed and chosen to co-ordinate together. There are 42 25.5x25.5cm (10x10in) squares in each layer cake. If you do not want to use a layer cake, then use the following fabric quantities instead: • Pink fabric: 50x112cm (20x44in) • Multi print fabric: 50x112cm (20x44in) • Blue fabric: fat quarter • Green fabric: fat eighth • Grey fabric: fat eighth FABRICS USED Layer Cake from the Moda Yucatan Range by Annie Brady…

MARY JANE SHOES YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: 30x30cm (12x12in), for the outer • Contrast fabric: 30x30cm (12x12in), for the lining • Cotton wadding: 30x30cm (12x12in), for the inside • 2 press fasteners • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit NOTES • Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/downloads • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Download, print and cut out the templates for the sole and upper. There are three different sizes to choose from: 0-3 months, 3-6 months and 6-9 months. If you’re unsure, measure the sole template against a shoe that fits your child. Both shoes use exactly the same templates. Step two From the main fabric cut out the following pieces: Outer soles: two pieces using the sole template. Outer uppers: two pieces…

MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. TAILOR’S CHALKSX Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches. HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY BACK WAIST LENGTH From the top of…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

WORKING THE WEEKEND Once a practical workwear staple, overalls are now a weekend style must-have – and we must have Closet Case Patterns’ chic new Jenny overalls for our own me-made wardrobes! Jenny is a new twist on classic vintage style with unique mix-and-match features, including slash front pockets and a double zip waistband – not to mention topstitched detailing aplenty. Printed pattern approx £14, PDF approx £11, store.closetcasepatterns.com POOL COOL Beach, pool, spa – we're set for all summer swimming occasions with Cashmerette’s flattering Ipswich Swimsuit, which includes two colour-blocked variations and a foam swim bra and boning options for guaranteed comfort, whether you’re doing a few laps or poolside lounging. www.cashmerette.com FOR THE MAKERS Wear your stitching passion with Roodles Runique’s fun, retro- inspired illustrations celebrating…

HELLO PETAL BLOOM BY MAKOWER UK Floral prints are on our wish list all year round, but they come into their own in summer – and these bloom motifs from Makower are just the thing for prettying up our projects this season. Ditsy, chintzy and oh-so-sweet, these delicate designs are perfect for small-scale patchwork pieces. They're not just for summer, though – the collection includes four seasonal colour palettes for your stash. www.makoweruk.com LLAMA LOVE NO PROBLLAMA BY DEAR STELLA DESIGN Dear Stella's follow-up to last year's No Drama Llama range is proving you can never have too many llama prints! The new collection features llamas adorned with flower garlands and joined by all manner of cute critters. If quirky is your thing, you'll love…

When it comes to pom poms, more is always better, so any gadget that we can get our hands on to help speed up their creation is a winner with us! More time equals more pom poms, right? Cue Clover’s nifty Pom-Pom Makers, which are available in a range of sizes, from dinky 2-2.5cm designs through to an enormous 8.5cm spheres (wow!). Made from hardwearing plastic, these circular tools have been designed to make pom pom construction quicker and easier, whilst giving us crafters fuller, more uniform pom poms in the process – our kinda gadget! We’ve got sets of each size pom pom maker to give away this month to nine lucky readers. For your chance to win, enter at www.simplysewingmag.com and email Clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk for stockist information.…

YOU WILL NEED For printing • Soft synthetic block: cut to 7.5x11.5cm (3x4½in) • Water-based textile screen-printing ink: half a cup each of two complementary colours • Lino cutter set and printing equipment • Tracing paper For making the top • Main fabric: 112cm (44in) width x 1.6m (1¾yds) or 150cm (60in) width x 1.2m (1¼yds), for all sizes • Iron-on interfacing: 25x90cm (10x35in) • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit FABRIC SUGGESTIONS Lightweight or medium-weight woven fabric. NOTE Use a 12mm (½in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. PREPARING THE FABRIC Step one Pre-wash your fabric. Once the fabric is dry, press well. Step two Before you print any repeat patterns onto your fabric, find and mark the fabric’s grainline to ensure your print lays evenly. TRANSFERRING THE IMAGE Step…

YOU WILL NEED • 2 rugs: at least 60x60cm (24x24in) each with a fringe at both ends • Plain cotton fabric: 87x54cm (34¼x21¼in), for lining • Magnetic clasp • Felt: small scrap • Pair of faux-leather handles • Extra-strong upholstery thread: to match the handles • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED Signe rug measuring 85x55cm (33½x215/8in) from www.ikea.com NOTE • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one The upper front and upper bag sections are cut from one rug with the fringe still attached. At one end of the rug, measure 28cm (11in) up from the top of the fringe and mark a line then cut along it. Trim this piece so that it is 54cm (21¼in) wide. This is the upper front section.…

YOU WILL NEED For each brooch • Linen fabric: 25x25cm (10x10in) • Stranded cotton: floral colours of your choice • Thin card: 7x14cm (3x6in) • Brooch pin • Toy stuffing • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. • Download the template from www.simplysewingmag.com/downloads WORKING WOVEN WHEEL STITCH Step one To start the woven wheel, bring the needle up at the centre of the wheel then work five straight stitches to act as spokes. Step two Bring the needle up near the centre then take it over one spoke and under the next, without piercing the fabric.01 Step three Alternate passing the needle over one spoke and under the next around the circle.02 Step four Continue weaving the thread around…

DEFINE YOUR TARGET CONSUMER “Have a very specific idea of who your customer is. You can then develop products that are going to totally meet her needs and delight her.” Jenny Rushmore, Cashmerette SPEND TIME ON PRODUCT IMAGES AND DESCRIPTIONS “Put the investment into fantastic photos – even the best product won’t sell with poor photography. Write some great copy too: it makes the retailer’s life so much easier and gives you control over how your products are represented.” Kate Mottram, M is for Make CONNECT WITH YOUR CUSTOMERS “It might sound silly, but a smile does go a long way. Craft fairs are full to the brim of people shopping for their hobby, their passion, the thing they love so they are excited to be there. The traders who…

LEARN THE TECHNIQUE Foundation Paper Piecing, referred to as FPP, is a clever patchwork technique where you stitch through a paper template. You can achieve really accurate and perfect results and it can be used in place of traditional piecing. It can be confusing to begin with as you’re working in reverse, but makes perfect sense once you start. EQUIPMENT You need paper to print or draw the template on. Cheap photocopier paper is fine, or any thin paper. You’ll also need a rotary cutter, ruler and mat to trim the seams as you’re working. PREPARING THE TEMPLATE Step one First you need a paper template for the design. These are most always printed in reverse as you need to stitch to a mirror image of the finished result. Step…

YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: 160x80cm (63x31in), medium-weight plain such as canvas or calico, for the mat • 7 plain and print fabrics: 27x27cm (105/8x105/8in) each, for the hopscotch squares • Contrast fabric: 20x20cm (8x8in), for the loops • Plain fabric scraps, for the beanbags: see instructions for details • Bondaweb: 50x80cm (20x32in) • Polyester fibrefill: 100g • Dried peas or beans to add weight to the beanbags. • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit NOTE • Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/downloads CUTTING OUT Step one Download, print and cut out the rainbow, numbers and bean bag templates. Only half of the four rainbow arches are given, so cut them out onto a folded piece of paper to make the complete arches.01 Step two Cut the contrast fabric into…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

"It may sound like a cliché, but my wedding dress has to be my most-loved project, and I didn’t even make it from scratch. It was my mom's, who passed away two years before I got married. I had always toyed with the idea of wearing my mom's wedding dress, but before I got into sewing I thought that meant wearing it in all its 1980s gathered sleeved, petticoated glory. Later, though, I got into refashioning, and it was then that I began to see the greater possibilities of what the dress could become. The dress was originally handmade by my grandmother. It was a bit of a last-minute project (two weeks before the wedding!), as my mom was so tiny the dress she ordered was huge when it arrived.…