Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 36 i Simply Sewing

With the festive season underway, our trusty sewing machines are full speed ahead and whirring along to the sound of Christmas tunes as we stitch up some handmade loveliness for the holidays. Pausing only for mince pies and to restock our seasonal stash, we’re sewing personalised gifts for the whole family, decking the halls with stylish decorations made from our most coveted fabrics and, of course, treating ourselves to a new party frock – or two! Let’s make this our best handcrafted Christmas yet.…

EARTH MOTHER Finnish pattern brand Named celebrate nature and science with their new Earth Science collection. The designs take inspiration from geology and minerals, with geometric lines, interesting cuts and organic, flowing silhouettes. Panelled details throughout offer an opportunity to play with unique fabric combinations in this season’s earthy and jewel tones – perfect for a luxe party frock! From approx £12, www.namedclothing.com BRIGHT IDEAS Craft your way to a stylish and fuss-free festive season with our sister magazine Simply Christmas, packed with handy gift guides, tempting recipes, on-trend decor and creative makes, including a gorgeous Liberty-print table runner by Alice Caroline. £5.99 from www.buysubscriptions.com EFFORTLESS EVERYDAY If your wardrobe is overflowing but you often feel like you have nothing to wear, it’s time to sew up a…

11 NOVEMBER›20 JANUARY 2018 A Hat or a Husband? Bankfield Museum, Halifax. Explore the history of millinery and local hat-makers with this display in celebration of the Patron Saint of Milliners, Saint Catherine. museums.calderdale.gov.uk 23›26 NOVEMBER The Knitting & Stitching Show, Harrogate. Enjoy a weekend of learning new skills and browsing supplies at this popular craft show.www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com 9 DECEMBER The New Craft House Winter Party, London. Join The New Craft House and fellow sewists for a fun-filled evening of stash-shopping and dancing. shop.thenewcrafthouse.com UNTIL 21 JANUARY 2018 Wallace Sewell: 25 Years of British Textile Design. Fashion and Textile Museum, London. A display of work by woven textile studio Wallace Sewell. www.ftmlondon.org…

CLICK HERE! TO BUY THIS PATTERN FOR £6.99 WHILE STOCKS LAST Put on your dancing shoes and get set for the party season with this issue's The Esme Dress, a statement frock with an on-trend frill detail. This 1960s-inspired style can be made in UK sizes 6-20 (US 4-18/EUR 34-48) and is designed for light to medium-weight woven fabrics – think luxurious brocade, sparkly embellishments and bold prints. The step-by-step instructions will take you through sewing a simple bodice with a round neckline, inserting sleeves and adding the ruffle waist detail and a gathered skirt. Don't forget to share your me-made party look with us using #simplysewingmag! YOU WILL NEED • Fabric: Dress A: 115cm (45in) width fabric x 3m (3¼yds); 140cm (55in) width fabric x 2.8m (3yds) for all…

Vividly colourful, deliciously varied and brimming with possibilities, fat quarters, also known as FQs, really are the sweetie jar treats of the fabric world. First created to facilitate quilt makers, they actually have fairly limitless potential. Measuring a quarter of a yard of fabric, each one is like a luscious remnant ideally sized for transforming into divine accessories and accents, items for your home, fun little extras, and, yes, heirloom quilts too. The small amount of fabric means they’re really affordable, while the gorgeous prints and shades offer the chance to follow your sewing skills right over the rainbow! We speak to some of our favourite fat quarter aficionados to find out what it is about these tempting fragments that makes their hearts go ping. DISCOVERING FAT QUARTERS There’s an…

YOU WILL NEED • Denim fabric medium weight: 60x60cm (24x24in), dark • Denim fabric medium weight: 60x60cm (24x24in), light • Polyester fibrefill: 300g • Matching thread • Erasable fabric pen • Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance. • Download the template needed from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads Jessica says: ”These reversible star cushions are quick to make and look lovely piled up together on a sofa or bed. We made ours with two shades of denim but you could use the same shade. You could use an old denim skirt or buy new fabric as we have here, size them up or down, and personalise them.” CUTTING OUT Step one Trace the template and cut it out. Step two Draw around it using an erasable pen on the…

YOU WILL NEED • Fabric A: 50x50cm (20x20in), for the main body • Fabric B: 28x28cm (11x11in), for the front body • Fabric C: 20x28cm (8x11in), for the beak and feet • Lining fabric: 20x28cm (8x11in), for the inner bag • Wadding: 15x30cm (6x12in) • Pair of 10mm (3/8in) safety eyes • Plastic beans • Polyester toy filling • Basic sewing kit FINISHED SIZE Approx 22cm (8¾in) tall. NOTES • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace and cut out all the template pieces. The templates include seam allowances where necessary and the arrows indicate the print direction for marking and cutting out. The notches are used…

EAST MIDLANDS LEICESTERSHIRE CRAFT CENTRE Workshops and courses for adults and children of all levels, craft supplies, patterns and fabric available online and in store. leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk SOUTH WEST INCHES FABRICS Fabrics, Wools and Haberdashery. Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns. Knitting and Sewing lessons. 39 Parsonage St, Dursley, Glos, GL11 4BP inchesfabrics.co.uk SOUTH SEW BUSY Stockists of Makower, Robert Kaufman, Clothworks and Windham, among many others. Ribbons, haberdashery, sewing themed goods and classes. sew-busy.co.uk EAST MIDLANDS CRAFTY SEW & SO Crafty Sew&So have everything you need for your next sewing project! Use code CRAFTY10 to get 10% off your first order online! craftysewandso.com NORTH HAPPY HARE An independent sewing store in Chapeltown, Sheffield, stocking a range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. handmadehappyhare.com SOUTH WEST BECKFORD SILK Silks…

Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size…

Party season is here and what better way to celebrate than making our statement Esme Dress (p36)? We’ve got two versions for you to sew, as well as this winter’s must-wear garment – the faux leather skirt (p41). If gifting is your game, then you’re in luck! There are quick-make gift ideas for all the family (p20) as well as on-trend decs (p71) and star cushions (p73) to sew. Plus, vote for your stitchy faves and you could win a £100 Amazon voucher, see p56 for details.…

CONSTELLATIONS Amber Platzer =Corcoran and Jaime Jennings (£15.99, Lucky Spool Media) Look to the stars for stitching ideas with this book of constellation patchwork. The serenity of the night sky is captured in 12 minimalist blocks, with modern makes such as a patchwork jacket. www.luckyspool.com THE SAVVY SEAMSTRESS Nicole Mallalieu (£24.99, C&T Publishing) Channel your inner fashion designer and add your own twist to your favourite sewing patterns with this guide to pattern hacking, featuring techniques and tips for switching up design details such as pockets, necklines and fastenings to create your own unique garments for women, men and children. www.ctpub.com STYLISH HOME SEWING Torie Jayne (£12.99, CICO Books) Add handmade loveliness to every room with this book of over 35 practical projects by blogger Torie Jayne in her trademark…

PRINTS CHARMING Give your tree a modern boho vibe with fabric baubles in mix-and-match prints. Approx £29, www.gioiajune.etsy.com SNOW BUSINESS Stitcher Zoe loves winter sports, so it’s no surprise she’s hoping for snow. From £20, www.snowbird  artworks.etsy.com VILLAGE PEOPLE Keep the kids entertained on snow days with this DIY paper village. Approx £5, www.digitprop.etsy.com FUN›SIZE FELT Merry up your mantelpiece with a row of little felt trees. £14.95 each, www.houseof  hooray.etsy.com TOTALLY HOOKED Put your me-mades on display on hand- painted candy cane hooks. Approx £21, www.candycompany.etsy.com…

5 TILDA COTTAGE KITS TO BE WON Your chance to win festive Tilda treats and dressmaking scissors for your stash. We’re super excited about the new Tilda Cottage collection (have you seen our 3D Christmas tree on page 71?) and to celebrate its launch we’ve teamed up with Groves to give away Tilda Cottage prizes worth over £50 each, to five lucky readers. Each winner will receive a Tilda Santa or Tilda Stocking Kit, plus a pack of nine fabric-covered buttons and a pair of Hemline dressmaking shears in rose gold. For your chance to win enter at www.simplysewingmag.com, and find your local Tilda stockist by emailing groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk SEWING GOODIES WORTH £250! Enter today for your chance to win a bumper stash from Dragonfly Fabrics. Just think of all the…

YOU WILL NEED • Fabric: 115cm (45in) width fabric x 181cm (71in); 140cm (55in) width fabric x 102cm (40in) • I ron-on interfacing: 25x90cm (10x35in), to suit your fabric weight • Invisible zip: 20cm (8in), to match your fabric • Hook and eye • Tracing or pattern paper • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit FABRIC SUGGESTIONS Medium and heavier-weight fabrics, although a lighter material would work very nicely for a high summer style. We used a striking faux leather in chocolate. NOTES • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. • You will find the pattern needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided. • If you are using a faux leather then use clips instead of pins to hold the fabrics together as pins will mark it.…

YOU WILL NEED • Extra large shirt • Cotton contrast fabric: for the collar • Iron-on interfacing, medium weight: for the collar • Basic sewing kit ADJUSTING THE SLEEVES Step one Cut the sleeves off your shirt just outside the seam line. Step two Turn one sleeve inside out and put your arm inside. Trim the length at the top if it’s too long, making sure you follow the original shape of the sleeve head.01 Step three Pin the side seam of the sleeve underneath so it fits your arm. Don’t make it too tight, just a better fit. Step four Turn the sleeves right sides (RS) out and gather the top section of the sleeve head a little to give it some shape then pin in place and stitch…

YOU WILL NEED • Cotton fabric: 1 fat quarter • Appliqué fabric: 15x20cm (6x8in) • Bondaweb: 15x20cm (6x8in) • Herringbone tape: 2cm (¾in) width x 2m (2¼yds) • Button • Matching sewing thread • Basic sewing kit MATERIAL USED Dot Black from The Denim Company. Ref: 3619D. Available from www.thedenimcompany.co.uk NOTE You will find the template needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. CUTTING OUT Step one Fold the fat quarter in half lengthways. In one corner cut a curved section starting 12cm (4¾in) from the fold line and sweeping down approx 22cm (8¾in) down the raw edge at the side.01 Step two From the herringbone tape cut: Neck strap: one piece 50cm (19¾in). Ties: two pieces 75cm (29½in). HEMMING THE CURVES AND BOTTOM Step one Fold…

There are so many reasons to love the festive season – catchy Christmas tunes, mince pies, cosy knits – but top of the list has to be that it gives us an excuse to spend more time at our sewing machine making thoughtful gifts and heirloom decorations. So we've packed this issue's Christmas Makes project book with ideas for a creative Christmas, from geometric baubles, treat bags and Scandi bunting to a polar bear toy and appliqué tees for the kids – and each one can be made in an evening. Merry stitching, everyone!…

YOU WILL NEED • Main cotton fabric: see instructions for details • Appliqué fabric: 60x112cm (24x44in) • Duvet • Snap popper tape: see instructions for details • Bondaweb: 120x45cm (47x18in) • Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. • You can download the templates needed from www.simplysewingmag.com/downloads • We used a king-sized duvet folded into quarters to give the bed some depth and springiness. If you have a smaller dog, then simply make your bed using a smaller duvet. Designer Juliet says: “I am the proud owner of two Labrador dogs and have tried various beds for them, none of which really work, so I have found a solution. My dogs love sleeping on human beds, so I’ve recycled a duvet and made a cover that…

YOU WILL NEED • Linen fabric: 30x30cm (12x12in) • Cotton fabric: 25x30cm (10x12in) • Felt: 20x20cm (8x8in) • Stranded cotton • Embroidery hoop: 20cm (8in) diameter • Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. • You will find the template on the pull-out pattern sheet provided. WORKING CORAL STITCH Step one Bring the needle up through the fabric. Hold the working thread along the pattern line. Go down just above the line, leaving a loop of thread on the surface.01 Step two Bring the needle up just below the line, flipping the loop of thread down so it surrounds the needle. Pull the needle through so the loop tightens into a knot. Repeat, spacing the knots as close or as far apart as you prefer.02 STITCHING…

MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. TAILOR’S CHALKSX Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches.…

UNIVERSAL A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too. BALL POINT This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. JEANS A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims. SHARPS With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes. QUILTING This will pierce multiple layers whilst keeping straight stitches so it is ideal for patchwork and machine quilting. TOPSTITCH This has an extra-sharp point and eye, so thicker topstitching thread can be used. It’s perfect for straight stitching with thicker threads on any type of fabric. TWIN…

IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects…

DRAPE A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities. EASE The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well. EDGESTITCH A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place. FACING This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline. FAT QUARTER A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). FINISHING/NEATENING RAW EDGES This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam,…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

TINA O’ROURKE Tina is a craft practitioner, writer and facilitator living in the west coast of Ireland. Her skills include pattern drafting and design using textiles, felt, hand and machine embroidery and crochet. Make her tabletop tree ornament on page 71. LISA COMFORT Lisa Comfort is the founder and owner of Sew Over It, a sewing haven and fabric shop in London, and has launched a new brand of handmade storage baskets at www.tokaree.co.uk. She shares her Christmas craft plans on page 44. CORINNE LAPIERRE Corinne Lapierre designs and makes beautiful felt sewing kits featuring woodland wildlife and quirky items such as miniature houses, toadstools and gingerbread men. She shares where she finds inspiration for her creations on page 64. CATHY MCKINNON AND ARIANNA CADWALLADER Designers Cathy and Arianna are…

FESTIVE FIX Speedy and fun, each of the designs in Lewis and Irene’s Christmas Panels Collection features preprinted fabric with motifs to cut out and sew into something lovely and festive for your home. We just love the simplicity of this North Pole Bunting design, which is made up of festive flags that are ready to snip and string together. They’re ideal for making with little ones in the run-up to Christmas. £7.95, www.sewingquarter.com EDITOR’S PICK WINTER PRINTS Boost your festive fabric stash with these merry and bright fabrics featuring fun penguins, jolly gnomes, classic holly and fir trees… SHOP ONLINE! Browse over 340 designs in our online shop and buy custom-cut fabric ranging from tiny charm packs to half-metres - perfect for dressmaking. You’ll also find dress…

YOU WILL NEED • Oversized sweatshirt • Sweatshirt sewing pattern (or an existing sweatshirt that fits) • Fabric marker • Small piece of card • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit Portia says: “I do like a sweatshirt refashion, but so many of the sweatshirts I see in charity shops will have printed fronts or large logos which I am not so much of a fan of. This refashion not only resizes and reshapes a baggy oversize sweatshirt; but also deals with the issue of unwanted print and logos by using the wrong side of the fabric, and some cheeky appliqué as a textural contrast.” CUTTING OUT Step one Start by cutting away all the ribbing from the neckline, cuffs and hem. Put this to one side as you’ll need…

YOU WILL NEED • Fabric A: 50x112cm (20x44in) for lid and base • Fabric B: 20x112cm (8x44in) for side triangles • Fabric C: 20x112cm (8x44in) for side triangles • Lining fabric: 100x112cm (40x44in) • Iron-on interfacing: 30x60cm (12x24in) • Iron-on wadding: 100x90cm (40x35in) • Foam interfacing: 100x72cm (40x28in) • Leather: 5x18cm (2x7in) • 2 Chicago screws, medium brass • 2 heavy duty zips: 40cm (16in) • Elastic: 5mm (¼in) width x 1m (1yd) • Glue: suitable for leather • Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. • Download the templates needed at www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads CUTTING OUT Step one Trace and cut out the two templates. Step two Cut out the following pieces: Fabric A: 1 base outer using the circular template. 1 lid…

YOU WILL NEED • Fabric A: 30x112cm (12x44in) • Fabric B: 30x112cm (12x44in) • Polyester fibrefill • Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED The Cottage Collection by Tone Finnanger for Tilda. Fabric A: Berry Leaf, Red. Fabric B: Sigrid, Red. Email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk for stockists. NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. • The template is on the pattern sheet CUTTING OUT Step one Trace around the tree template from the pattern sheet and cut it out. Step two You need to cut three tree shapes from Fabric A and these are cut with the fabric folded right sides (RS) together and the template pinned on top. Fold, pin and cut one tree shape at a time to fit them across the fabric piece. Step three Repeat this with Fabric B…

YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: 40x112cm (16x44in) • Contrast fabric: 50x112cm (20x44in) • Lining fabric: 100x112cm (40x44in) • Tree trunk fabric: 5x5cm (2x2in) • Bondaweb: 35x20cm (14x8in) • Cord: 1.5m (1¾yds) • Water erasable pen • 2 eyelets: 11mm • Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. • You will find the template needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided. CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut two pieces 37x52cm (145/8x20½in). Step two From the contrast fabric cut out: Top panel: two pieces 22x52cm (8¾x20½in). Bottom panel: two pieces 15x52cm (6x20½in). Eyelet reinforcement: 5.5x8cm (2¼x31/8in). Step three From the lining fabric cut out: Sack lining: two pieces 70x52cm (275/8x20½in). Tree: 25x20cm (10x8in). INSERTING EYELETS Step one Cut a 5.5x8cm (2¼x31/8in) piece of Bondaweb…

LEARN THE TECHNIQUE There are many metallic thread varieties for both machine and hand embroidery. Most metallic threads are made from a polyester or nylon core, and wrapped with a coloured metallic foil. It's this layering which easily shreds when stitching, but there are a few things you can do to prevent this. MACHINE THREADS Varieties of metallic thread range from the finest weights to multiple strands twisted together. Good-quality threads are less likely to shred and break, especially if you use the right needle and adjust your machine slightly. HAND EMBROIDERY THREADS Some of the most popular metallic threads available are DMC’s Light Effects threads and Madeira’s Metallic no 4. These are six stranded divisible threads, which you can blend with other stranded cotton for a more subtle shine.…

BACK WAIST LENGTH From the top of your spine at the base of your neck to your natural waist HEIGHT : Stand against a wall, barefoot, then measure from the top of your head to the floor BUST Around the fullest part of your bust HIGH BUST/CHEST : Across the back, under your arms and above the bust HIPS Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom WAIST : Your natural waistline, around the slimmest part of your waist ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

"MOST OF THE TIME, the last thing I’ve sewn becomes my favourite (in a fickle way). I have many things that I’m proud of for different reasons; beautiful detail, a tricky technique mastered, amazing fabric, a perfect fit... And it was difficult to decide whether a favourite item would be a staple or something ‘special’ that doesn’t get worn much at all. I settled on the latter, a dress made for my daughter using the subtraction cutting method by British fashion designer Julian Roberts. You take a front and back bodice pattern piece and chuck them carelessly onto a double layer of fabric that has been closed at the top and sides. Then you trace the pattern and join the ends of the front and back bodice together with a…