Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 35 i Simply Sewing

It’s never too early to start sewing for the colder months ahead, and of course Christmas! So, this month we’re sharing some of our favourite winter makes, from wardrobe updates to decor and gifts to help you get ready for the festive season. There’s a stylish knit dress (p48) for everyday wear, a simple-make smock (p34) for layering up, quick-sew advent bunting (p69) to count down the days, and a stunning heirloom patchwork stocking from the lovely folks at Tilda (p80). Whatever you’re sewing, share your makes using #simplysewingmag…

PERFECT MATCH Two colourful (and iconic) worlds collide in this irresistible new collection of opulent designs for everyday living from Anthropologie and Liberty. The heirloom-worthy pieces mix Anthropologie’s boho-cool aesthetic with Liberty’s heritage florals for a match made in print heaven, with everything from statement sofas and dining table-and-chair sets to bedding and too-pretty-to-use tea towels. From £12, www.anthropologie.com 70S REVIVAL Sew yourself back to the 1970s with Deer & Doe’s three new patterns inspired by the era's comeback on the catwalks: the Azara, a swishy flared midi skirt; the Bleuet shirt dress; and Givre, a staple jersey dress and top also available as a maternity pattern. From £10, www.deer-and-doe.com GOOD MORNING Brighten up your breakfast with the new novelty Pets Party prints from Cath Kidston, starring one…

20 OCTOBER-21 JANUARY 2018 Louise Dahl-Wolfe: A Style of Her Own. Fashion and Textile Museum, London. A retrospective of the work of influential fashion photographer Louise Dahl-Wolfe.www.ftmlondon.org 28 OCTOBER Sewbrum. Birmingham. Join sewing fans from across the UK for this annual meet-up run by blogger English Girl at Home.www.englishgirlathome.com/sewbrum 4 NOVEMBER Sew a top from scratch. Liberty, London. Make a perfectly fitting top without using a pattern at this day workshop in Liberty’s Heritage Suite. www.libertylondon.com 9-12 NOVEMBER The Knitting & Stitching Show. RDS, Dublin. Browse crafting supplies and learn new skills at the workshops and demos. www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com…

Although we’ve packed away our floral frocks until next summer, there are some perennial staples that have earned their spot in our wardrobe all year round – and this issue’s Zoe Dress is one of them! This versatile frock in UK sizes 6-20 (US 4-18/EUR 34-48) is our go-to for easy summer style, but can be layered up with knits for cosy winter dressing, too. The Zoe Dress features a swishy trapeze shape, two lengths and a scoop neckline, with no need for fiddly fastenings – wohoo! Share your finished Zoe Dress with us using #simplysewingmag, we’d love to see! YOU WILL NEED • Fabric: see pattern envelope • Matching thread FABRIC SUGGESTIONS • Medium weight woven fabrics such as cotton blends, denim, linen or crepe. GETTING STARTED First pre-wash…

YOU WILL NEED • Shirt or blouse to fit • Lace: 50x50cm (20x20in) • Narrow elastic: 60cm (24in) • Basic sewing kit MARKING THE SECTIONS Step one Try your shirt on and mark where you want the lace sections to be. Step two Take off the shirt and draw the section on the right side (RS) using a fabric marker. Make sure the lines are straight and that they are the same size on each side. CUTTING OUT THE LACE PANELS Step one Unpick the shirt from the collar.01 Step two Next unpick the shirt from the shoulder, sleeve and placket to your drawn lines and cut out the marked section.02 Step three Use the pieces you’ve cut out as templates by placing them on the lace and cutting around…

YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: fat quarter • Contrast fabric: fat quarter • Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Forest in Navy and Mountain Silhouette in Light Grey, from the Dashwood Altitude range designed by Pippa Shaw. Available from www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk NOTES Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut the main fabric to 36x55cm (141/8x215/8in). Step two From the contrast fabric cut out the following pieces: Waistband and ties: five strips, 6x56cm (23/8x22in) each. Skirt trim: one strip, 20x56cm (77/8x22in).01 MAKING THE APRON SKIRT Step one Turn the short edges of the main fabric under by 5mm (¼in) then 5mm (¼in) again and press. Stitch into place to hem. Step two Fold it in half widthways to find the centre and then fold again to find the…

YOU WILL NEED • Fabric A: 40x40cm (16x16in) • Fabric B: 30x30cm (12x12in) • Fabric C: 7x7cm (3x3in) • Fabric D: 18x18cm (7x7in) • Plain fabric: 14x14cm (6x6in), for eye patches • Fabric scrap: 10x5cm (4x2in), for the beak • Polyester toy filling • Stranded cotton: black • Basic sewing kit FINISHED SIZE Approx: 20cm tall. NOTES • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet included with this issue. • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. • The templates include seam allowances where necessary and the arrows indicate the print direction for marking and cutting out. The notches are used to match pieces when stitching together, so mark these too. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace and cut out all the template pieces. When…

1 THE QUILT SANCTUARY Professional Longarm Quilting Services with a selection of threads, notions and gorgeous fabrics, including a Christmas range. ‘Dasher’ is a little different but we also have more traditional fabrics, panels and Advent Calendar kits. thequiltsanctuary.co.uk 2 ON TREND FABRICS Think Christmas fabric is all about red, green, glitz, and shine? Think again. On Trend Fabrics are stocking this fresh scandi-inspired tonal range this winter. Designs are printed onto Cotton Poplin £6.79 per Metre ontrendfabrics.co.uk 3 SUNNYSIDE FABRICS UK Here at Sunnyside Fabrics UK we love to sew! Thats why we pride ourselves on a wide range of delightful fabrics for quilting and dressmaking, because there is nothing better than a project made with love, care and beautiful fabric. sunnysidefabricsuk.com 4 ROBIN & MISTLETOE Scattered with cheerful…

Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size…

IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects…

We’ve just returned from The Great British Sewing Bee Live with our shopping bags full and our heads buzzing with ideas for our winter wardrobes. First on our to-make list is The Jade Dress (p48) in luxe jewel tones – it’s so on-trend and perfect for the colder weather. Then it’s time to make a start on our Christmas projects. If you’re in need of inspiration, our quick-sew bunting (p69) and heirloom stocking (p80) will get you in the festive spirit! PS: BONUS GIFT WORTH £30 when you subscribe (see p18)…

ALL ABOUT YVES Catherine Örmen (£35, Laurence King) Discover the fascinating man behind the iconic fashion label YSL with this look at the life and career of designer Yves Saint Laurent, featuring unseen sketches, photos of his catwalk collections, documents and hand-written letters. www.laurenceking.com THE BAG BOUTIQUE Debbie von Grabler-Crozier (£14.99, Search Press) Sew handbags of all shapes and sizes with this book of 20 bag projects by Simply Sewing contributor Debbie (Psst! Turn to page 61 for her tablet case project). Designs include everyday totes and smart clutches for special occasions, and there are plenty of tips for adding professional finishing touches, too. www.searchpress. STYLISH REMAKES Violette Room (£7.99, Tuttle Publishing) Use your stitching skills and creativity to revamp old and unloved clothes into stylish new garments with this…

GOLDEN TOUCH Add a luxe finishing touch to your dinner party table with gold napkin rings. £35.95, www.miafleur.com TREE’S A CROWD Branch out with a tree ornament, screen-printed and planted in whitewashed wood. £35, www.astridweigel. etsy.com LITTLE ACORNS Add autumnal detail to parcels and place settings with this acorn and leaf stamp set. £12.95, www. papermash.co.uk PERFECT PEAR Invite a retro vibe to your kitchen with this pear-print tea towel in 1970s colours. £11.95, www.annabel  james.co.uk IN THE FRAME Bring the outside in with pressed leaves, handmade to order for a unique piece of art. £36, www.botanique  workshop.com…

TO WIN! £200 SIMPLICITY PRIZE Enter for your chance to win a bumper stash of goodies from Simplicity. Hip, hip hooray! Pattern company Simplicity is 90 years old and is celebrating launching its first ever gift collection. The new vintage-inspired range includes limited edition planners, storage tins, cosmetic bags, coasters and other delights, all with a retro vibe. We’ve teamed up with Simplicity to offer one lucky reader a bumper prize of goodies, worth £200, including treats from the new collection, as well as a selection of Simplicity sewing patterns and haberdashery items for your stash. Enter at www.simplysewingmag.com, and see the new range at www.simplicitynewlook.com WIN A FESTIVE FABRIC BUNDLE! We’ve got four Merry & Bright Threaders fabric bundles to give away. Get your handmade Christmas off to a…

Whenever birthdays approach, we cling to the adage of being like a bottle of wine, always improving with age. In future, though, we'll be swapping it for Simplicty's more can-do mantra – never to cease seeking out new creative adventures. It's a motto that has served the pattern company well. Since its launch in the US in 1927, the brand has been embracing fashion and pop culture trends alike over nine exceptional decades. We’ve been especially impressed by Simplicity’s championing of independent designer-makers, but this makes perfect sense when you consider its roots. A LEAP OF FAITH In 1927, American entrepreneur James J. Shapiro founded The Simplicity Pattern Company. He was just 18 years old. Fortunately, James’ idea for a business creating and introducing easy-to-use, low- priced patterns was immediately…

We're filling the day-to-night wardrobe gap with the versatile Jade Dress, perfect for the upcoming holiday season. Available in UK sizes 6-20 (US 4-18/EUR 34-48), this easy-wear frock is designed for stretch knit fabrics and features a princess-seamed bodice, a pleated skirt and two sleeve and skirt lengths. Try making yours in a bold print, mix and match colourful plains, or use a knit with a little bit of sparkle for party-dress vibes. YOU WILL NEED • Fabric: Dress A: 115cm (45in) width fabric x 3.2m (3½yds); 140cm (55in) width fabric x 2.7m (3yds) for all sizes Dress B: 115cm (45in) width fabric x 2.6m (3yds); 140cm (55in) width fabric x 2.2m (2½yds) for all sizes • Clear elastic – 1m (1yd) • Matching thread FABRIC SUGGESTIONS • Medium-weight knit…

YOU WILL NEED • Main linen fabric: 20x20cm (8x8in) • Contrast fabric: 16x12cm (7x5in) • 2oz wadding: 12x12cm (4¾x4¾in) • Perle cotton: size 8, for the wreath • Stranded cotton, for the bow and running stitch • Basic sewing kit NOTE • You will find the template on the pull-out pattern sheet provided. WORKING BRAID STITCH Step one Work from right to left along two drawn parallel lines. Bring the needle up through the fabric on the bottom line. Step two Make a loop with the working thread, so the thread that just came through the fabric is on top. Step three Insert the needle through the loop then in through the top line, and back out on the bottom line.01 Step four Pull the working thread taut on the…

YOU WILL NEED • Print fabric: 100x112cm (39x44in) • 4 plain fabrics: 25x112cm (10x44in) of each • Pom pom trim: 8mm (¼in) width x 2m (2¼yds) • Webbing: 1cm (3/8in) width x 3.5m (3¾yds) • Cord for hanging: 2m (2¼yds) • Matching thread • A4 fabric transfer paper: 1 sheet • Inkjet printer • Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED Stars Neon. From the Magical Christmas collection by Rico Design.www.thefabricfox.co.uk NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. • You will find the template and numbers on the pull-out pattern sheet provided. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace the cone template from the pattern sheet and cut it out. Step two On the wrong side (WS) of each of the plain fabrics, draw around the cone template six times, leaving 2cm (¾in)…

YOU WILL NEED • Fabric 1: plain fabric, 75x112cm (30x44in) • Fabric 2: print, one fat quarter • Fabric 3: print, one fat quarter • Fabric 4: print, one fat quarter • Fabric 5: print, one fat quarter • Fabric 6: print, one fat quarter • Wadding: 64x90cm (25x35in) • Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED The fabrics used are from the Cottage Collection by Tone Finnanger for Tilda: Minerva Red, Sigrid Plum, Botanical Blue, Berry Leaf Red, Minerva Dove White and Solid Off-White. Find stockist info at www.tildasworld.com NOTES • Use a ¼in seam allowance. • You will find the templates and cutting/layout diagrams on the pull-out pattern sheet. FINISHED SIZE 14x22¼in (35.5x56.5cm). CUTTING OUT Step one Trace around the stocking outline and the appliqué star template from the pattern…

LEARN THE TECHNIQUE Appliqué, whether it’s by hand or machine, involves layering one fabric shape on top of another and stitching it into place. With 3D appliqué you can add another dimension to your work and really make it stand out and come alive. There are several different methods of working machine appliqué depending on the effect you would like to create. SIMPLE 3D SHAPES Step one Cut a piece of fabric twice the size of the shape you want to make with a little extra added all the way around. Step two Press a piece of Bondaweb paper side up to the wrong side (WS) of it. Step three Peel off the paper backing then fold the fabric WS together and press so the fabric is now double-sided. Step…

BACK WAIST LENGTH From the top of your spine at the base of your neck to your natural waist HEIGHT : Stand against a wall, barefoot, then measure from the top of your head to the floor BUST Around the fullest part of your bust HIGH BUST/CHEST : Across the back, under your arms and above the bust WAIST : Your natural waistline, around the slimmest part of your waist HIPS Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on…

UNIVERSAL A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too. BALL POINT This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. JEANS A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims. SHARPS With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes. LEATHER This needle’s wedge-shaped cutting point is used to work strong seams on non-woven fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl. STRETCH Designed for sewing two-way stretch knits such as lycra and silk jersey. It prevents skipped stitches on fine knit fabrics. QUILTING This will pierce multiple layers whilst…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

"AS WITH ALL GOOD THINGS, this garment was inspired by something I found on Pinterest: a sheer midi length skirt with horizontal stripes worn with a pair of shorts underneath. I loved that it was a little bit fru-fru, a little bit practical. I saved the idea aside and thought nothing more of it until I happened to find the perfect fabric while browsing Etsy one day. It was sewing fate! The fabric I found was possibly even nicer than the original on Pinterest – a beautiful natural-coloured woven silk with sheer panels and a textured weave. It was like nothing I'd ever seen before. To make the skirt and shorts I had a rough idea to choose a slim-fitting shorts pattern for the base and then overlay them with…

ANNA ALICIA Anna loves combining handmade ceramics with organic textiles in her jewellery collections for her label A Alicia, and is always looking for new creative avenues to explore. Count down to Christmas with her advent bunting on page 69. ALICE GARRETT Alice Garrett is the founder of Alice Caroline, selling Liberty of London fabrics, quilt and bag kits, notions, accessories and patterns, and creates exclusive projects for Sewing Quarter. She shares her passion for Liberty lawn fabrics on page 52. JENNIFFER TAYLOR Seamstress Jenniffer is determined to get more of the nation sewing with her #sewingrevolution workshops, social media and TV demos (find her on Sewing Quarter, Freeview 78). Read about her #sewingrevolution campaign on page 64. SAMANTHA CLARIDGE Samantha is a craft blogger at www.liveitloveit makeit.com and owner…

IN THE BAG! We’re always on the lookout for quick and satifying makes to sew in the evenings, epecially as the days start to get shorter, and Angela Attwood’s Reversible Drawstring Bag is exactly what we had in mind. It’s just one of the many free, bite-sized how-tos that can be found in the ‘Learn’ section of the Sewing Quarter website, which are ideal for keeping our crafty fingers busy – all winter long! Find out more at www.sewingquarter.com/projects-and-guides EDITOR’S PICK THRIFTY STASH These fun prints on muted backgrounds are perfect for this time of year, and better still all of these finds are under a fiver! We’d better stock up... SHOP ONLINE! Browse over 340 designs in our online shop and buy custom-cut fabric ranging from tiny charm packs…

YOU WILL NEED • Sweatshirt • Pack of Solufleece • Stranded cotton • Crewel embroidery needle • Water erasable pen • Squared paper • Coloured pencils • Embroidery hoop • Basic sewing kit NOTE Solufleece is a water soluble stabiliser often used for hand or machine embroidery. It is used by tacking it to the fabric you wish to embellish and then stitching on it like you would with an ordinary fabric. Once the stitching is complete, you then submerge it in cold or warm water to dissolve the Solufleece and it leaves no residue. CREATING THE DESIGN Step one Copy the charts for both rose designs onto separate pieces of squared paper. We used four squares on our squared paper to represent one square on the chart as this…

Growing up, Alice Garrett found herself equally entranced by the worlds of science and sewing. Taught by her mum as a small child, she also used to do cross stitch and basic patchwork with her grandma, and found it snared her buzzing mind as much as her curiosities about science. “I had a couple of lessons at school, attempting to make an awful 90s waistcoat, but apart from that I’m mostly self-taught,” she says. “The first thing that I remember making with my mum was a cushion with a patchwork rabbit appliquéd onto it. This was when I was at primary school so I must have been about seven.” Alice learnt new skills along the way, “making sleeping bags for my toys and other things,” and never stopped experimenting. “I…

YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: 35x60cm (14x24in) • Lining fabric: 40x80cm (16x32in) • Plain contrast fabric: 40x10cm (16x4in) • Faux leather contrast fabric: metallic, 40x8cm (16x3½in) • Foam interfacing: 60x40cm (24x16in) • Iron-on wadding: 60x40cm (24x16in) • Iron-on interfacing: 20x10cm (8x4in) • Zip: 51cm (20in) • Zip: 18cm (7in) • Ribbon, beads and tassel to decorate • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Orchard Blossom Joyful and London Joyful from Joyful Fusion by Art Gallery Fabrics; Festival Fuchsia from Pure Elements by Art Gallery Fabrics. NOTE • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut out the following pieces: Case front: 31x23cm (12¼x91/8in). Case back: 30x22cm (117/8x8¾in). Slip pocket outers: two pieces, 12x12cm (4¾x4¾in) each. Step two…

YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: wide house: 50x50cm (20x20in), narrow house: 40x60cm (16x24in) for the house section • Contrast fabric: wide house: 30x90cm (12x36in), narrow house: 45x65cm (18x26in), for the roof • Door fabric: 13x7cm (5¼x2¾in), for either house • Window fabric: wide house: 7x15cm (2¾x6in), narrow house: 10x20cm (4x8in). • Bondaweb: 20x20cm (8x8in), for either house • Polyester fibrefill • Basic sewing kit NOTE Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance throughout unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut the main fabric for the house into the following pieces: Wide house: two pieces 23x43cm (91/8x17in). Narrow house: two pieces 38x31cm (15x12¼in). Step two Cut the contrast fabric for the roof into the following pieces: Wide house: two pieces 25x43cm (97/8x17in). Narrow house: two pieces 40x31cm (15¾x12¼in). Step three…

LONDON REALLY MARIA An Extensive range of Fabrics, Wool, Haberdashery, Craft Kits and Workshops. New to London. 0203 5810909 reallymaria.com SOUTH WEST INCHES FABRICS Fabrics, Wools and Haberdashery. Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns. Knitting and Sewing lessons. 39 Parsonage St, Dursley, Glos, GL11 4BP inchesfabrics.co.uk SOUTH EAST SEW BUSY Stockists of Makower, Robert Kaufman, Clothworks and Windham, among many others. Ribbons, haberdashery, sewing themed goods and classes. sew-busy.co.uk MIDLANDS CRAFTY SEW & SO Crafty Sew&So have everything you need for your next sewing project! Use code CRAFTY10 to get 10% off your first order online! craftysewandso.com MIDLANDS HAPPY HARE An independent sewing store in Chapeltown, Sheffield, stocking a range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. handmadehappyhare.com EAST MIDLANDS LEICESTERSHIRE CRAFT CENTRE Workshops and courses for adults and…

MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. TAILOR’S CHALKSX Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches.…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

DRAPE A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities. EASE The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well. EDGESTITCH A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place. FACING This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline. FAT QUARTER A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). FINISHING/NEATENING RAW EDGES This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam,…