Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 33 i Simply Sewing

Oh, floaty fabrics and pastel prints - such a match made in heaven! There’s no doubt about it, our love affair with sewing started off with the discovery of fabric shopping. Whether it’s the feminine drape you get from chiffon, the bold statement made from colour-blocking, or simply the joy in finding a collection of cottons to make a matching set of homewares - we’ll never tire of finding new ways to work with (and build) our stash. What are you working on? Share your photos on Facebook @simplysewingmag…

EASY BREEZY Floaty caftans are our go-to holiday garment, and we always return from our trip wishing we could work them into our everyday wardrobe, too. Lucky for us, then, that Closet Case Patterns has just released the Charlie Caftan, a super-glam style we’d just as happily wear popping to the shops as we would at the beach. That’s our summer style sorted for home and away! Printed pattern approx £14, PDF approx £11, store.closetcasepatterns.com WORKING IT The work overall has been given a feminine update with Sew House Seven’s Burnside Bibs pattern, with a choice of two bibs and a fitted and relaxed-fit trouser. Change up the look by making it in a drapey fabric or traditional denim. Printed pattern approx £14, PDF approx £11, www.sewhouse7.com HELLO…

1-3 SEPTEMBER West Country Quilt & Textile Show. UWE, Bristol. See quilts and textiles on display and shop supplies at this mixed-textile event.www.westcountryquiltshow.co.uk 7-9 SEPTEMBER Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts. EventCity, Manchester. Join in with a varied programme of workshops and demos and browse the stalls. www.stitchandhobby.co.uk 15-17 SEPTEMBER The Handmade Fair. Hampton Court Palace. Learn new skills from industry experts and buy creative materials and gorgeous handmade products.www.thehandmadefair.com 26 SEPTEMBER-MARCH 2018 Embellishment in Fashion. Hampton Court Palace. An inspiring display of embroidery and embellishment from the 18th to 20th centuries. www.royal-needlework.org.uk…

GADGET OF THE MONTH The Infila Automatic Needle Threader is a great gadget that makes the task of needle threading so easy. If you ever have problems threading a needle then this product is a real must-have! You can use this great little desktop machine to thread many different threads through even the smallest of eyes. It has two funnels, one for larger needles and one for smaller ones. Clever, huh? It’s no wonder they’ve been going down a storm with viewers! Buy your own at www.sewingquarter.com/p/ZBZI91/ EDITOR’S PICK SUMMER SEWING! Sewing Pretty Little Things is our perfect kind of book. It’s packed with heaps of ideas for how to use small pieces of fabric to make big impressions. Partner with your favourite bundle of fabric and you’re ready to…

YOU WILL NEED • 1 main top that fits you • 2 secondary tops wider than the main top • Square rule • Basic sewing kit NOTE • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING THE TOPS Step one Use one of your secondary tops to create two large rectangles for the centre panels. They need to be wider than the main top by at least 5cm (2in) as it’s easier to stitch them together a little bigger and then trim them to the correct size later. For our top we kept the hem to save sewing a new one, and this will form the bottom of the new top.01 Step two Use your other secondary top to create two more rectangles to the same width as…

PSST: We’ve finished the raw edges of our tee with a machine zigzag stitch for a simple sew, but you could also use an overlocker if you have one. YOU WILL NEED • Jersey fabric, mid weight: 160cm (63in) width x 1.7m (2yds) • Matching polyester thread • Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. • You will find the pattern needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut out all three pattern pieces and stick them together as indicated by the dashed lines. There are two necklines for each size printed on the pattern – the higher one is for the back neckline and the lower is for the front neckline. Cut out along the higher back neckline…

YOU WILL NEED • Loose shirt dress • Basic sewing kit REMOVING THE SLEEVES Step one Cut off both the sleeves along the seam line.01 Step two Try your dress on and trim the arm holes so that they sit on your shoulder.02 Step three Finish the raw edges with machine zigzag stitch then turn them under by 5mm (¼in) and topstitch into place to hem. ADJUSTING THE SIDE SEAMS Step one Turn your dress on inside out. Step two To make the dress more fitted you need to pin it together through the front and back, down the sides. Make sure you place the pins the same distance from both side seams so you get an even fit.03 Step three Stitch together along the pinned line on either side…

Our festive sewing list seems to get longer every year, so it’s never too early to start Christmas crafting – luckily, though, there’s no sewing required for this gift-wrapping idea from DaWanda. Inspired by Jenniffer Taylor’s thrifty scarf top on page 63, we’ll be using our unwanted scarves to give handmade gifts in oh-so-pretty furoshiki wrapping. All it takes is a little folding and knotting. It’s great for fabric scraps, too – just finish any raw edges before you start wrapping. Find the tutorial at en.dawanda.com…

LEARN THE TECHNIQUE Bias tape is a wonderful thing. It’s used to edge garments, trim fabrics and pipe cushions, and, as it is cut on the bias of the fabric, it has stretch, making hemming tricky curved edges a breeze. There are lots of ready-made bias tapes available to buy, in all kinds of colours, patterns and widths, but we think there’s nothing better than making your own, which is straight forward to do. Here's how… WHAT DOES CUT ON THE BIAS MEAN? When something is cut on the bias, it refers to being cut across the grain of the fabric. Fabric is made up of vertical warp threads, which have horizontal weft threads woven across them at right angles. To find the bias of the fabric, imagine you have…

YOU WILL NEED • Fabric A: 50x100cm (20x40in) • Fabric B: 30x30cm (12x12in) • Fabric C: (for bow, optional): 7.5x10cm (3x4in) • White felt: 20x10cm (8x4in) • Black plastic safety eyes: pair of 12mm (4¾in) • Polyester toy filling • Stranded cotton: black • Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Fabric A: Knock on Wood, Light Grey by Riley Blake. Ref: C5431-LTGRAY. For stockists visit www.eqsuk.com Fabric B: Reflect in Natural from Euclid by Carolyn Friedlander for Robert Kaufman. REF: AFR-16280-14. Available from www.thevillage haberdashery.co.uk FINISHED SIZE Approx: 26cm (10¼in) tall. NOTES • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. • You will find the templates on the pull-out pattern sheet provided. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace and cut out all of the template pieces. The templates include the…

MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. TAILOR’S CHALKSX Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching.…

IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects…

DRAPE A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities. EASE The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well. EDGESTITCH A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place. FACING This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline. FAT QUARTER A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). FINISHING/NEATENING RAW EDGES This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam,…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

This month I’ve been indulging my feminine side with pretty florals and floaty wearables. Give your bedroom a dreamy vintage-style makeover with subtle floral prints (p18) and continue this delicate theme into your wardrobe with a set of pastel chiffon tops (p34) - so light and airy! Love floaty fabrics? Try our colourblock camisole top (p39) made from old scarves. Clever, huh? Tag us in your photos on Instagram using #simplysewingmag PS: GREAT SUBS OFFERS Turn to p32…

FASHION TREND FORECASTING Gwyneth Holland & Rae Jones (£17.99, Laurence King) Learn the art of forecasting trends with this informative book of advice from industry insiders. An essential for fashion professionals, students and dressmakers looking to keep ahead of the trends. www.laurenceking.com STYLISH WRAPS SEWING BOOK Yoshiko Tsukiori (£11.99, Tuttle Publishing) Get ready for next season with this book of 22 stylish wraps to keep you cosy on chilly days, all of which can be made in just a few hours. Mix the five pull-out patterns to create your own designs, from everyday wear like a smart blazer and wool coat, to contemporary shapes like a hooded cape and flowing draped jacket. www.tuttlepublishing.com COMPLETE GUIDE TO DRESSMAKING Jules Fallon (£15.99, Search Press) Pattern designer and sewing tutor Jules Fallon takes…

LET IT SHINE This basket may be small, but it makes a big, shiny impact with its sequinned style. £15, www.postcardshome.co.uk FROM THE HEART We fell in love at first sight with this tassel- adorned, heart-motif bag. Ideal for the beach, shops or at- home storage. £18.99, www.sistersguild.com BEACH DAYS We can't resist multi-coloured pom poms, so we'll be packing this bright beauty for a beach break. £59, www.brissi.com PASTEL RAINBOW Match your beach bag to your ice cream with this natural raffia basket with candy-hued pom poms. Delicious! £18.99, www.berryred.co.uk CHIC AND SIMPLE Tonal tassels and subtle beading offer a chic take on boho style. £49.95, www. whitestuff.com…

Step one Place the bag clasp on some paper and draw around the outside top edge of the frame from end to end. Step two Decide how roomy you want your bag to be. If you want lots of room, you will need to draw a template with an angle outside of the frame that is wider than the frame. If you want it to be flatter, follow the frame’s shape more closely. Step three Mark a 1cm ( 3/8in) seam allowance outside the drawn bag frame top, then extend this away from the bag frame edge to your desired size. If you want a curved bottom, mark darts for extra fullness. If you want a square bottom you could include boxed corners instead. Step four Mark where the bag…

YOU WILL NEED • 1 fat quarter • Magnetic clasp set • Faux leather scraps • Wadding: 40x21cm (15¾x8¼in) • Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED Watermelon from the Tropical Spring range by Rico. Available from www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk NOTE • Use a 1cm ( 3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one From the fat quarter cut two pieces 42x23cm (16½x9 1/8in). Step two Find the centre point on one of the short edges of one fabric piece. Measure 12cm (4¾in) down one of the long edges and cut between these points. Repeat on the other side. This creates the point for the flap. Step three Repeat with the other fabric piece. Step four From the faux leather cut two circles using a penny as a template.01 Step five Pin…

YOU WILL NEED • Denim fabric: pre-loved jeans • Iron-on patches • Zip: 15cm (6in) • Thread: to match jeans topstitching • Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED • Iron-on patches from The Makery, www.themakery.co.uk NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one From the denim jeans cut: Bag front and back: two pieces 20x17cm (77/8x6¾in) – we cut around the jeans pockets. Zip tabs: two pieces 6x4.5cm (23/8x17/8in). Fringe: two pieces 11x17cm (43/8x6¾in). For pale fringing, cut the long edge along the warp (the darker blue ‘denim’ colour); for dark fringing, cut along the weft (undyed threads). Step two For the strap, cut off the two inner seams from the legs of the jeans (the seams with the topstitching) with 1cm (3/8in) raw…

YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric (for front of bib): 34x24cm (14x10in) • Contrast fabric (for back of bib): 34x24cm (14x10in) • Appliqué fabric (for the animal): assorted scraps • Bondaweb: approx 30x30cm (12x12in) • Bias binding: 150cm (60in) • Press fastener • Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. CUTTING OUT Step one Choose which animal you want to appliqué then trace around all the templates for its face individually and cut them out. Step two Trace around the bib and cut it out. Step three Cut one bib piece from the main fabric for the front and one piece from the contrast fabric for the…

SOUTH EAST SIMPLY HABERDASHERY Online haberdashery & fabric store selling all sewing essentials at great prices and FREE DELIVERY. Use code SS10 for 10% off first order. simplyhaberdashery.com SOUTH WEST INCHES FABRICS Fabrics, wools and haberdashery. Buttons, ribbons and patterns. Knitting and sewing lessons. 39 Parsonage St, Dursley, Glos, GL11 4BP inchesfabrics.co.uk SOUTH EAST SEW BUSY Stockists of Makower, Robert Kaufman, Clothworks and Windham, among many others. Ribbons, haberdashery, sewing themed goods and classes. sew-busy.co.uk MIDLANDS CRAFTY SEW & SO Crafty Sew&So have everything you need for your next sewing project! Use code CRAFTY10 to get 10% off your first order online! craftysewandso.com MIDLANDS HAPPY HARE An independent sewing store in Chapeltown, Sheffield, stocking a range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. handmadehappyhare.com NORTHERN IRELAND MIBS…

BACK WAIST LENGTH From the top of your spine at the base of your neck to your natural waist BUST Around the fullest part of your bust HEIGHT Stand against a wall, barefoot, then measure from the top of your head to the floor HIGH BUST/CHEST Across the back, under your arms and above the bust WAIST Your natural waistline, around the slimmest part of your waist HIPS Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope…

UNIVERSAL A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too. BALL POINT This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. JEANS A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims. SHARPS With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes. LEATHER This needle’s wedge-shaped cutting point is used to work strong seams on non-woven fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl. STRETCH Designed for sewing two-way stretch knits such as lycra and silk jersey. It prevents skipped stitches on fine knit fabrics. QUILTING This will pierce multiple layers whilst…

“OVER THE PAST YEAR, THE SPORT OF swimming has slowly taken over our household. It started when my eldest daughter joined a swim team. It wasn’t long before she began to see herself as part mermaid. As an ex-swimmer myself, I found it easy to support this new passion. However, I also found that I was pining to get back in the water, so five months ago I re-ignited my competitive spirit by joining the U.S. Masters, and in six weeks I will be representing them at the US Masters Swimming National Championships. My two younger daughters seem to be following in their big sister’s footsteps. We are a house with a very high swimsuit turnover. Swimsuit sewing has been very high on my agenda over the past year. It…

JENNIFFER TAYLOR Seamstress Jenniffer is determined to get more of the nation sewing with her #sewingrevolution workshops, social media and TV demos (find her on Sewing Quarter on Freeview 78 and YouTube). Try a project from her new book on page 63. ROSEE WOODLAND Rosee Woodland is a textile designer and freelance journalist based in Bristol. See her work at www.roseewoodland.com, and follow her wild swimming adventures at www.iswimlikeagirl.com. Make her asymmetric tee on page 48. THE NEW CRAFT HOUSE Hannah and Rosie set up The New Craft House in 2013 after struggling to find fresh and exciting craft products, and bring traditional crafts up to date with their contemporary kits. They share what it takes to run a craft business on page 66. ZOE PATCHING Zoe is a freelance…

Whether you’re a super-organised list-maker or a last-minute-panic kind of holiday packer, having pretty and practical travel accessories is a must, and these handmade Liberty lovelies by Hiromi Paris fit the bill. With handy drawstring bags for laundry and zip-pocket bags for lingerie, toiletries or other smaller items, all sewn up in a variety of Liberty prints, you’ll have plenty of options for packing the essentials. From approx £22, www.hiromiparis.etsy.com…

Buttons, zips, threads, embellishments – a treasure chest of inspiration for any creative. Creations by Korbond Sewing Baskets, are a perfect combo of pretty and practical, featuring handy compartments for an ever growing stash of supplies. The latest travel range of ethnic chic prints inspired by art and culture from around the world will look good on any sewing room table or shelf – and we’ve got 10 to give away! The lucky winners will receive a standard-size sewing box from the latest travel collection. Browse designs at www.korbond.co.uk and enter to win at www.simplysewingmag.com See www.simplysewingmag.com  to enter today! (UK only, see competition rules on p6.)…

When it comes to holiday dressing, we’re all about easy styles that will work for beach days, city breaks and everything in between. Cotton + Chalk’s The Holiday Set, in UK sizes 6-20 (US 4-18/EUR 34-48), will be a warm-weather favourite whatever your getaway plans are this summer. This lightweight top can be worn with jeans and sandals for sightseeing, or over your swimsuit as a beach or poolside cover-up, and includes a jersey vest top to layer or wear separately. The kimono-style top can be made with a round neckline or a V-neck and includes an optional contrast sleeve band detail, and the vest top is a simple style designed for knits with 35% stretch and has a scoop neckline. Share your finished Holiday Set with us using #simplysewingmag…

YOU WILL NEED • Two square scarves or pieces of fabric the same size: approximately 51cm (20in) square • Matching thread • Basic sewing kit FINISHING THE RAW EDGES Step one The great thing about using scarves is that they have already been hemmed. But if your scarves are different sizes, or you’re using fabric, then cut the fabric to size first. Step two Fold under and press the raw edges by 5mm (¼in) and then repeat for a double hem. Step three Topstitch these folds in place. Use the edge of the presser foot as your seam allowance guide to ensure a nice straight stitching line. PINNING TOGETHER Step one With right sides (RS) together, pin the scarves along the top edge at the top right and left sides,…

YOU WILL NEED • Linen fabric: 25x35cm (10x14in) • Cotton backing fabric: 16x21cm (63/8x8¼in) • 2oz wadding: 16x21cm (63/8x8¼in) • Stranded cotton • Basic sewing kit NOTES • You will find the embroidery template on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. WORKING A CABLE CHAIN STITCH Step one Bring the needle up through the fabric and wrap the working thread over and under the needle.01 Step two Insert the needle a short distance from where the thread came up, then bring it back up through the fabric a stitch distance away. Pull the working thread taut and then hold it under the needle.02 Step three Pull the needle through the fabric, making sure that the working thread is inside the loop…

YOU WILL NEED • Cotton fabric: 60x110cm (24x43in), green • Iron-on wadding: 60x110cm (24x43in) • Stranded cotton: green • Chunky yarn: pink • Polyester fibrefill • Pom pom maker: 85mm (33/8in) diameter • Water erasable pen • Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance • Download the cactus template at www.simplysewingmag.com CUTTING OUT Step one First download the cactus template from www.simplysewingmag.com, and then cut it out to make your cactus pattern. Step two Fold the fabric in half widthways with right sides (RS) together. Step three Pin the pattern centrally on top and draw around it. Step four Take the pattern off then cut the fabric through both layers 1cm (3/8in) outside the drawn line all the way around for the seam allowance. Step five…

1 SUNNYSIDE FABRICS UK Here at Sunnyside Fabrics UK we love to sew! That is why we pride ourselves on a wide range of delightful fabrics for quilting and dressmaking, because there is nothing better than a project made with love, care and beautiful fabric. sunnysidefabricsuk.com 2 CLOSS & HAMBLIN Closs & Hamblin have been providing home, haberdashery, dress making, knitting and craft products since 1933. Visit us in stores or online for inspiration and a vast choice of fabrics including Liberty tana lawns. candh.co.uk 3 TRURO FABRICS Trurofabrics.com offers a friendly, high quality service to every customer with an added personal touch from our team of experienced staff. 70’s floral viscose crepe fabric 150cm wide - £12.99 per metre. trurofabrics.com 4 TEMPTATIONS CRAFT BOUTIQUE Cotton Poplin “Poppies” £5.70 per…

Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…