Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 31 i Simply Sewing

The sun is out, the flip flops are on - summer holidays are a perfect catwalk to show off your favourite me-mades. This issue we’re celebrating the season with a whole host of wearable fabrics. From floaty chiffon that’s oozing glamour, to comfortable jersey that bridges the gap between practical and pretty, we’re delving into our stash for colours and prints aplenty. Because more is more, right? Whatever you’re sewing, share your photos using #simplysewingmag…

STELLAR SHIRT Yes, we may already have several button-up shirts in our wardrobe, but Closet Case Files’ new Kalle shirt pattern includes too many stylish design details to pass up on! There are options galore to mix and match; take your pick from three button plackets, two collars, two pleat styles and three lengths, including a sassy cropped version and a slinky button-up summer dress. Get 15% off the pattern using SIMPLYSEWING* at www.closetcasepatterns.com COLLAR POP Floaty frocks sewn up in cotton, chambrays and linen are our summer uniform, so we can’t wait to make The Flip Collar Shirt Dress by The Maker’s Atelier, with an oversized fit, grown-on sleeves, cuffs, pockets and three back details – plain, pleated or buttoned. £22.50, www.themakersatelier.com NEW AND IMPROVED For a…

PRICKLY PAL Try the cacti trend with no green fingers required (and no prickles!). £22 each, www.thefoxintheattic.com WILD THING Add character to any room with a menagerie of screen-printed animal cushions. £17.99 each, www. sistersguild.com CLOUD NINE Go for Scandi-style simplicity with this monochrome grid- print cloud made in soft organic cotton. £18, www.bobby  rabbit.co.uk SWEET TREAT Treat yourself to something sweet while reclining on this deliciously pink biscuit cushion. £32, www.nikki  mcwilliams.com WHAT A HOOT Brighten up your home with a new feathered friend, designed by Pui Lee. £39.99, www. limelace.co.uk…

GET TO KNOW As Sewing Quarter celebrates its fifth month on air, we’re welcoming a new designer to the ranks. Say hello to Alice Garrett! Alice runs her business, Alice Caroline (www.alicecaroline.com), which specialises in sending Liberty fabrics, patterns and kits all over the world. We caught up with her to find out a little more about her sewing journey before she makes her debut on 2 July. Watch her on freeview channel 78 or online at www.sewingquarter.com WHO TAUGHT YOU TO SEW? My mum taught me to sew as a child and I used to do patchwork with my grandma I had a couple of sewing lessons at school (attempting to make an›awful 90s waistcoat!) but apart from that I’m self-taught.› TELL US ABOUT YOUR SEWING JOURNEY... After getting…

YOU WILL NEED • Fabric: lightweight or drapey viscose 150cm (60in) width x 2m (2¼yds) • Elastic: at least 1.5cm (5/8in) wide and as long as your bust measurement • Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Woven viscose mint with paisley print from www.stoffstil.co.uk SIZING The instructions and measurements given here should achieve the desired outcome on a UK 10-16. We are using the full width of the fabric 150cm (60in) on a model with a 34-36in bust and calculate that these instructions should suit up to around a 42in bust. If you are under a UK size 10 then you can reduce the width of the rectangles you cut to avoid too much gathering and fullness. If you are larger than a UK size 16 you can increase the width…

Perhaps because we’re all trained to be obsessed with the pursuit of happiness from an early age, there are countless studies online that discuss the links between creativity and state of mind. From reducing anxiety to alleviating symptoms of chronic illness to increasing self worth and esteem, it’s all wonderfully positive. Naturally, we count sewing among those creative pastimes. Some days are definitely more of a struggle than others, but, happily (ooh, see how that word just snuck in there?), with sewing skills at our fingertips we have plenty of scope for cheering ourselves up. We spoke to some creative, happy sewists we love (frankly, we were spoilt for choice), as well as a couple of experts to get the full insight into the benefits of this mindful pleasure. SEEKING…

YOU WILL NEED • Fat quarter • Bean bag filling • Wadding scraps • Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED Tropical Spring, Pineapple by Rico, from www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk NOTE • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one From the fat quarter, cut out: Bean bag: 45x40cm (18x15¾in). Cable loop: 8x5cm (31/8x2in). MAKING THE CABLE LOOP Step one Fold both pieces of fabric in half lengthways with right sides (RS) together and press them.01 Step two Sew the folded loop piece RS together along the long edge, then turn RS out and press. Step three Fold this in half widthways to make a loop and pin to the top of one short edge of the bean bag piece so that raw edges are matching and the loop lies inside the…

“TAKING DESIGNS FROM PEN AND PAPER TO A FULL 3D ITEM IS FASCINATING TO ME. BUT, I’D HAVE TO SAY MY FAVOURITE PART IS SEEING MY DESIGNS ON OTHER PEOPLE.” When we speak with designer Patty Prann Young, she’s distracted by a recent studio move. “We moved out of our standalone brick and mortar shop that we were in for the past five years,” she says. “Most of our items are in storage and I work mostly on my laptop in our little home office at home, but as everything is temporary, it hasn’t been ‘prettied’ up yet.” However, none of this chaos is enough to slow down the creative powerhouse, as we discover when we ask about her design process. “I’m very precise about everything I do, which I’m…

YOU WILL NEED • Plush fabric: 20x20cm (8x8in) • Cotton print fabric A: 20x20cm (8x8in) • Cotton print fabric B: 20x20cm (8x8in) • Cotton print fabric C: 15x25cm (6x10in) • Cotton print fabric D: 40x25cm (16x10in) • Pair of 6mm black plastic safety eyes • Wadding: 2 pieces 18x23cm (7x9in) • Polyester toy filling • Stranded cotton: black FINISHED SIZE Approx: 28cm (11in) wide NOTES • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet included with this issue. • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace all the template pieces onto paper and cut them out. The templates include seam allowances, where necessary, and the arrows indicate the print direction for marking and cutting out. The notches are used to…

1 JJ TEXTILES As a second generation textile merchants, JJ Textiles offer a range of fabrics for all your sewing needs. In their fantastic summer dress range, they have a number of vibrant printed viscoses, crepe de chines, cottons, and much more. thefabricman.etsy.com ebay.co.uk/usr/thefabricman 2 DIGI DIVA GRAPHICS With a passion for surface design and crafting, Heather Hight created Digi Diva Graphics with the hopes to share her unique creations with others. She finds no greater joy than seeing finished projects created with her work by crafters worldwide. digidivagraphics.etsy.com 3 ADAM ROSS FABRICS If you’re looking for high quality dressmaking fabrics, visit adamrossfabrics.co.uk. You can select from a large range of beautiful fabrics, such as cottons, georgettes, chiffons, viscoses and many more. Order today and get FREE Delivery! adamrossfabrics.co.uk 4 CROOKILLEY…

Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size…

UNIVERSAL A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too. BALL POINT This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. JEANS A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims. SHARPS With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes. LEATHER This needle’s wedge-shaped cutting point is used to work strong seams on non-woven fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl. STRETCH Designed for sewing two-way stretch knits such as lycra and silk jersey. It prevents skipped stitches on fine knit fabrics. QUILTING This will pierce multiple layers whilst…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

This month I’ve finally ditched my winter coat in favour of maxi dresses and sandals - yay! It’s time to make the most of these lighter evenings and get started on gorgeous new items for your holiday wardrobe, too! Choose from comfy jersey day dresses (p34) and hold-it-all summer bags (p45), to pom pom-trimmed beach cover-ups and matching holiday accessories (p20). I just can’t get enough of the tassel trend! Until next time... PS: GET AN ISSUE FOR FREE when you subscribe (see p18)…

KAWAII: HOW TO DRAW REALLY CUTE STUFF Angela Nguyen (£8.99, Search Press) Artist and illustrator Angela Nguyen takes you through the techniques of kawaii drawing with simple exercises. Master the basic shapes, then dive into drawing people, animals, food and everyday objects – you could even use your drawings to create cute embroidery. www.searchpress.com TILDA’S SEASONAL IDEAS COLLECTION Tone Finnanger (£14.99, F&W Media) This collectable volume brings together three Tilda titles, Tilda’s Spring Ideas, Tilda’s Summer Ideas and Tilda’s Winter Ideas, and is filled with inspirational projects to keep you crafting from spring through to the festive season. www.sewandso.co.uk SEW ARTISAN! Kaffe Fassett (£15.99, Berry & Co) King of colour Kaffe Fassett’s new book showcases his latest collection of fabrics with 14 patchwork, home and dressmaking projects to brighten up…

26 JULY Pattern making on a mannequin. Fashion and Textile Museum, London. Learn how to create simple bodice shapes, necklines and sleeves with this day workshop. www.ftmlondon.org UNTIL AUGUST Stories in Stitch. Hampton Court Palace. See your favourite classic stories brought to life through the art of hand embroidery. Pre-book at www.royal-needlework.org.uk 10-13 AUGUST Festival of Quilts. NEC Birmingham. Learn new quilty skills, see the work of talented quilt artists from around the world and stock up your stash. www.thefestivalofquilts.co.uk 17 AUGUST Make your own espadrilles. The Makery, Bath. Whip up your own pair of stylish summer espadrilles with this workshop for keen crafters of all abilities. www.themakery.co.uk…

Jersey is our go-to fabric in the summer months. Not only is it super-comfy to wear and available in myriad tempting prints (proven by our rather sizeable stash!), but garments made with knits can be easily rolled up in our suitcase and won’t need any ironing when we get to our destination – win! The Zara Dress, in UK sizes 6-20 (US 4-18/ EUR 34-48), is the perfect throw-on-and-go sun dress that’ll take you from beach to bar (or from park to barbecue if you’re enjoying a staycation this summer!). The pattern features a feminine cross-over skirt with a high-low hemline, an easy-wear elastic waist and two neckline and back bodice styles to mix and match: a cowl or scooped neck, and a plain or elasticated back bodice. Share your…

YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: 60x147cm (24x58in) • Lining fabric: 80x112cm (32x44in) • Pocket fabric: 30x30cm (12x12in) • Iron-on interfacing: 30x48cm (12x19in) • Iron-on wadding: 90x100cm (35x40in) • Foam: 80x72cm (31x28in) • Moulded plastic heavy duty zip: to match main fabric, 70cm (28in) • Zip: to match main fabric, 18cm (7in) • Zip: to match lining fabric, 18cm (7in) • Webbing: 4cm (15/8in) width x 2.5m (2¾yds) • Coloured beads, ribbon, a tassel and pom poms • Small gold trigger clip • Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED • Main fabric: Solid Smooth Denim, Adobe Clay. Ref: DEN-S-2006. From The Denim Studio Collection by Art Gallery Fabrics. • Lining fabric: Happy Streamers. Ref: FFN-13846. From Fiesta Fun by Dana Willard for Art Gallery Fabrics. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/agf • Iron-on…

Achieving a neat, professional finish is something we’re all keen to achieve with our sewing projects, so it’s worth investing in quality pressing tools and steamers. Steamers are gentle on garments, as fabrics are steamed without extensive pressure. Steaming also helps to refresh fabrics, making them look as good as new! Steam irons work brilliantly alongside garment steamers. They can create precise pleats and seams, as well as tackling heavier fabrics, such as denim, where a hot plate is required. Discover the key steaming and pressing methods and equipment with our guide. STEAM GENERATORS Steam generators are a step up from the traditional steam iron – they allow you to iron and press for longer due to their large water tank, and have a powerful continuous steam output so are…

YOU WILL NEED • Fabric: 137cm (57in) width x 100cm (40in) • Bias binding: red, 1.5m (1¾yds) • Bias binding: orange, 3m (3¼yds) • Zip: 63cm (25in) • Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED Living Wall Hedgerow from Laura Ashley. Visit www.lauraashley.com NOTE You will find the template needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. It is split into two parts to fit on the pattern sheet. After tracing or cutting out each piece, simply stick them together along the dotted lines to make the full pattern. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace and join the pattern piece as detailed above. Step two Fold the fabric in half widthways with right sides (RS) together then pin the pattern onto the fabric, positioning it at the top to allow room…

YOU WILL NEED • Denim: pair of jeans (a straight leg works well) • Lining fabric: dark blue cotton, 60x112cm (24x44in) • Cotton fabric: orange, 15x25cm (6x10in) • Cotton fabric: lime green, 15x25cm (6x10in) • Buttons: 12 orange, 12 lime green • Wadding: 20x50cm (8x20in) • Bondaweb: 30x25cm (12x10in) • Rice: 400g • Basic sewing kit NOTES • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one From the denim cut out: Noughts and crosses board: nine 10x10cm (4x4in) squares. Noughts and crosses counters: ten 10x10cm (4x4in) squares. Draughts board: eight 40x5cm (15¾x2in) strips. Bag strips: two 26x8cm (10¼x31/8in) strips. Step two From the dark blue cotton cut out: Counters: ten 10x10cm (4x4in)…

YOU WILL NEED • Main fabric: orange spot, 50x100cm (20x40in) • Lining fabric: calico, 50x100cm (20x40in) • Felt: white, 30x70cm (12x28in) • 3 buttons: black • Bondaweb: 60x44cm (24x17in) • Iron-on wadding: 50x100cm (20x40in) • Basic sewing kit NOTES • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. • This chair cover is design to fit a small child’s chair with a seat back measuring 27cm (105/8in) wide and 23cm (91/8in) high. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace around the outer solid lines of the main pattern piece template, add a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance all the way around and cut it out. Step two Trace around the tail, tummy and cheek templates to…

MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. TAILOR’S CHALKSX Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches.…

IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects…

DRAPE A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities. EASE The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well. EDGESTITCH A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place. FACING This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline. FAT QUARTER A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). FINISHING/NEATENING RAW EDGES This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam,…

PATTY PRANN YOUNG Patty Prann Young relocated to the United States from San Jose, Costa Rica, in 1987. She worked in graphic design before launching MODKID LLC, a creative business that includes fabric and pattern design. See them in action on page 70. MOLLIE JOHANSON Mollie Johanson is the author of Stitch Love: Sweet Creatures Big & Small. She lives near Chicago and is happiest with a cup of coffee and some stitching. See of her embroidery work at www.molliejohanson.com and on page 67. JENNIFER LAUREN New Zealand-based designer Jennifer creates modern sewing patterns with a nod to classic vintage style for her pattern label Jennifer Lauren Vintage. She shares the inspiration behind her Afternoon top and blouse pattern on page 98. LISA COMFORT Talented entrepreneur behind London-based fabric shop…

Whether we’re travelling to far- flung locations or getting together with family at home, we always have our camera on hand to snap memorable moments – and now we can coordinate our camera with our Liberty me-mades thanks to Watermelon Design’s sturdy camera straps, made by designer and textile engineer Ezgi Acar in her sewing corner in Canterbury, UK. Ezgi hopes that her Liberty straps “will add a personal touch to your adventure.” From £19.75, www.thewatermelondesign.etsy.com…

Aside from the glorious sunshine and long, balmy evenings, our favourite thing about summer is that it gives us an excuse to swish about in our prettiest sun dresses – and summer frocks don’t come prettier than Palava’s, an independent label of beautiful clothing for grown-ups and little ones featuring charming designs illustrated by Bryony Richardson, from classic florals to zoo animals. The lucky winner of our giveaway will win a women’s dress and petticoat set of their choosing from Palava, worth £210. Browse at www.palava.co, and enter today at www.simplysewingmag.com See www.simplysewingmag.com  to enter today! (UK only, see competition rules on p6.)…

YOU WILL NEED • Shir, or blouse, approx two sizes bigger than your usual size • Basic sewing kit CREATING THE ARMHOLES Step one Cut off the sleeves of the shirt, then cut off the collar and shoulders by cutting across from armhole to armhole through both layers simultaneously. Retain as much of the shirt as possible (this will depend on the depth of the neckline at the collar).01 Step two Neaten the cut raw edges of the armholes with a machine zigzag stitch or by using an overlocker. Step three Turn the neatened edges over by 1cm (3/8in) to the wrong side (WS) of the shirt. Pin and then machine stitch the turning into place to create neat hems.02 MAKING THE CASING Step one Fold the top cut edge…

YOU WILL NEED • Cotton fabric: see instructions for details • Stranded cotton: in a selection of bright colours • Matching sewing thread • Basic sewing kit NOTES • You will find the pineapple template on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. WORKING A SCALLOP STITCH Step one Bring the needle up through the fabric on one side of the scallop. Go back down on the other side of the scallop, leaving a loop of thread on the surface.01 Step two Bring the needle up on the curve of the scallop, catching the loop of thread. If you are working a partial or angled scallop, the point where you bring the needle up will determine the shape and curve of the…

YOU WILL NEED • Denim or canvas fabric: 30x85cm (12x34in) • Plain cotton fabric: four scraps of assorted colours for the T-shirt • Cotton print fabric: 12x20cm (5x8in), for the ear and tail • Cotton fabric: tan, 15x35cm (6x14in), for the body • Cotton webbing tape: 3cm (1¼in) width x 80cm (32in) • Bondaweb: 25x40cm (10x16in) • Small button: for the eye • Basic sewing kit NOTE • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. Designer Kirsty Hartley says: “Make this fun tool belt to keep essentials to hand for those all important little jobs. It’s perfect for budding artists and DIYers, but if you want to make one for yourself then simply enlarge the pattern to 120%. This project is perfect…

NORTH WEST DOLLY’S HABERDASHERY Dolly’s is an inclusive and friendly environment, with ongoing classes from Learning to Love your Sewing Machine to Garment Making. 01925 820780 SOUTH WEST INCHES FABRICS Fabrics, wools and haberdashery. Buttons, ribbons and patterns. Knitting and sewing lessons. 39 Parsonage St, Dursley, Glos, GL11 4BP inchesfabrics.co.uk SOUTH EAST SEW SEW FABRICS Based in Bexleyheath, we have a wide range of fabrics from just £3 per metre and free UK delivery on orders over £20. sewsewfabrics.co.uk MIDLANDS LEICESTERSHIRE CRAFT CENTRE Craft kits that really work! Our kits are based on our popular workshops and include the same high quality materials. leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk MIDLANDS HAPPY HARE An independent sewing store in Chapeltown, Sheffield, stocking a range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. handmadehappyhare.com MIDLANDS CRAFTY…

BACK WAIST LENGTH From the top of your spine at the base of your neck to your natural waist BUST Around the fullest part of your bust HIPS Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom HEIGHT Stand against a wall, barefoot, then measure from the top of your head to the floor HIGH BUST/CHEST Across the back, under your arms and above the bust WAIST Your natural waistline, around the slimmest part of your waist ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…