Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 29 i Simply Sewing

THE FOLD LINE Rachel and Kate set up online sewing community The Fold Line in October 2015, with a pattern database, a forum for connecting with makers, and a sewing resources section. They show you how to sew this summer’s trends on page 42. KIRSTY HARTLEY Kirsty is the designer behind childrenswear label Wild Things and the author of two sewing books, “Wild Things: Funky Little Clothes to Sew” and “Wild Things to Make”. Make her girl’s skater dress decorated with pom poms on page 64. SIOBHAN MOLLOY Designer Siobhan Molloy founded her luxe womenswear brand, which is manufactured in Britain by skilled craftspeople, in 2015. Discover what she’s got planned for 2017, including a new collection and bespoke print, on page 74. ZOË EDWARDS As well as being a…

CHOOSING A SEWING MACHINE CAN BE A challenging task, regardless of whether you’re a newbie sewist or an advanced dressmaker. That’s why you’ll find sewing enthusiasts from all over the UK choosing Frank Nutt Sewing Machines in Birmingham as their ‘go to’ venue for finding that perfect model. It was Frank’s grandfather who firmly placed the Nutt family on the map by opening his sewing machine business in 1949. it’s no surprise that Frank (a third-generation Nutt) chose to continue the legacy, opening his own shop in 1985 at the tender age of 20. Fast-forward 30 years and you’ll find over 80 sewing machines and overlockers on display in Frank’s brand new, spacious store, ready to be tried-and-tested before you buy. With stock from Baby Lock, Bernina, Bernette, Brother, Elna,…

YOU WILL NEED Shirt or blouse Basic sewing kit REMOVING THE SLEEVES Step one Unpick the sleeves from the shirt using a seam ripper or small scissors, taking care not to cut through the fabric. Take a little time to remove all the loose threads that are left behind to neaten the seam area or they will get sewn into the new hem.01 Step two Neaten the raw edge if necessary then press one armhole to the inside along the unpicked seam line. Step three Topstitch the turned-under edge into place to hem.02 Step four Repeat this to neaten, press and stitch the other armhole. MAKING THE RUFFLES Step one Cut off the cuff from one of the sleeves. You won’t need this. Step two Cut the sleeve into two…

Originally worn as workwear, denim is now seen everywhere from high-fashion catwalks to high street stores – not to mention our sewing room! We don’t like to let any scrap go to waste, so are on the lookout for new ways to use our offcuts, inspired by the contrasting blue tones of our denim duffle bag on page 53. This Maisa jacket by Named Clothing was made using recycled denim and has us inspired to make our own from different shades, from stonewash to indigo. Get the pattern at www.namedclothing.com…

CHALK HILL BLUE FABRICS Supplier of patchwork fabrics, threads, waddings and notions. Keep up with events on Facebook! 01903 230008 FB/Chalk-Hill-Blue-Fabrics TRANSWORLD SEWING MACHINES Whatever you require sewing machines for, we can provide a comprehensive selection of fantastic machines perfect for you. 01942 608 028 SEW SEW FABRICS Based in Bexleyheath, we have a wide range of fabrics from just £3 per metre and free UK delivery on orders over £20. sewsewfabrics.co.uk LEICESTERSHIRE CRAFT CENTRE Craft kits that really work! Our kits are based on our popular workshops and include the same high quality materials. leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk RONA SEWING MACHINES Bernina Platinum dealer. Stockists of Juki, Brother, Janome & Husqvarna. Repairs to all makes. Suppliers to education for sales/service. onlinesewingmachines.co.uk CRAFTY SEW & SO Crafty Sew&So have everything you need for…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 70x80cm (28x32in) Contrast fabric: 100x75cm (40x30in) Water erasable pen Dowel: 1cm (3/8in) diameter x 70cm (28in) Basic sewing kit NOTES Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut out the main fabric into the following pieces: Outer: 66x38cm (26x15in). Lining: 66x38cm (26x15in). Step two Cut out the contrast fabric into the following pieces: Top pocket: 22x38cm (8¾x15in). Middle pocket: 24x72cm (9½x283/8in). Lower pocket: 34x68cm (133/8x271/8in). Hanging loop: 28x6cm (11x23/8in).01 MARKING THE FABRIC Step one Following the measurements on the diagram on page 81 for the outer fabric, draw the pocket positions into place onto the right side (RS) using a water erasable pen. MAKING THE POCKETS Step one Fold the top pocket in half lengthways, with RS facing. Pin and then stitch…

Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size…

SUMMER READY Every wardrobe needs versatile summer staples like the new Flint and Rowan patterns from Megan Nielsen. Flint can be made as wide-leg cropped trousers or shorts, while the Rowan bodysuit or tee has three necklines and sleeves to pick from. Get 20% off the patterns using the codes SIMPLYSEWINGFLINT and SIMPLYSEWINGROWAN at www.megannielsen.com*, and enter our Flint and Rowan pattern giveaway at www.simplysewingmag.com DREAM MACHINE To celebrate pairing with John Lewis to offer new UK-based subscribers a hot-pink JL110 machine worth £99 this month (see page 18 for details), we’ll be sharing our top tips and advice for getting the best out of your machine, from key techniques to project ideas, at www.simplysewingmag.com SNOW WHITE W A favourite with brides thanks to its associations with innocence and purity,…

25 APRIL›4 MAY RSN Midlands Exhibition, Rugby. Admire stunning examples of Jacobean crewelwork, silk shading, goldwork and more from RSN’s Technical Hand Embroidery course.www.royal-needlework.org.uk 27›30 APRIL The Spring Knitting & Stitching Show, Edinburgh. Sign up for workshops, buy fabrics and join the Campaign for Creativity.www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com 11›13 MAY Stitch & Hobbycrafts Show, Harrogate. Stock up on supplies and learn skills at this popular craft show, taking place in Harrogate for the first time. www.stitchandhobby.co.uk FROM 27 MAY Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion. V&A, London. Discover how designer Cristóbal Balenciaga’s craftsmanship and vision has influenced contemporary fashion. www.vam.ac.uk 5 FAB FINDS Totally hooked SPELL IT OUT A bit of word art is the perfect way to welcome friends and family into your home. £38, www.paperchase.co.uk HOP TO IT We love the minty…

Designer Jessica says: “This is a quick and easy way to turn a pair of jeans or trousers into some on-trend scallop shorts perfect for festival season.” YOU WILL NEED 1 pair of blue jeans, looser fit Fray Stop Erasable pen CUTTING THE SHORTS Step one Work out the length that you would like your scallop shorts to be, noting that they will be a little shorter once you cut out the scallops. The easiest way to do this is to mark where you want them to be and try them on to check the length first before cutting, or use another pair of shorts as a template. Step two Once you cut off one leg, fold it over and mark up against the other leg. Step three Fold back…

YOU WILL NEED Men’s dress shirt Elastic: 2.5cm (1in) width x 1 metre (1 yard) Basic sewing kit CUTTING OUT Step one Lay your shirt down flat with the front side up and press it so that it lies flat and the side seams are right on the edges. Step two Measure and mark a straight line just under the collar of the shirt that reaches from shoulder to shoulder. Step three Pin either side of this line just to keep the shirt front and back held together in the same position while you cut. Step four Cut along the marked line then discard the collar and shoulder tops.01 MAKING THE CASING Step one Fold the cut raw edge over by 2.5cm (1in) to the wrong side (WS) then 2.5cm…

YOU WILL NEED Jersey or sweatshirt fabric: 1m (1¼yds) Contrast rib for the welts: 6x80cm (23/8x32in) – if rib isn’t available, self fabric can be used Yarn for pom poms 35mm (13/8in) pom pom maker Basic sewing kit SIZE The patterns are for ages 6-18mths, 18m-2yrs, 3-5yrs, 6-8yrs. NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. • You will find the patterns needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. Designer Kirsty says: “This easy-to-sew skater dress makes a perfect addition to your little girl’s wardrobe. Wear on its own in the summer, or layered with long-sleeved tops and tights – it could also be made as a separate jersey top and skirt, too. I’ve used a soft fleece-back sweatshirt fabric, but good weight jersey,…

Siobhan Molloy’s elegantly sculptural garments have a playful edge we can’t resist. Architecturally sharp tops are teamed with flowing flower-like skirts with handkerchief hems, bringing to mind fantastical films where anything can come to life as an ally, or an enemy. The Poppy skirt and top are an explosion of black or two-tone petals, while the Lashes Caddy Top tells the world everything it needs to know about your mood for the day. “My mother was a skilled seamstress, and her skill and style has always influenced my work,” says Siobhan. “I was around nine years old when my parents bought me a secondhand sewing machine and I’ve been making and designing garments ever since.” PURSUING A DREAM Siobhan studied for a BA Hons Fashion at Manchester School of Art,…

WORKSHOP PAGE 87 MACHINE EMBROIDERY Thank you for making these projects from Simply Sewing. The copyright for these templates belongs to the designer of the project. They work hard to create projects for you to enjoy, so please don’t re-sell or distribute their work without permission. Please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Copyright law protects creative work and unauthorised copying is illegal. We appreciate your help.…

FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. TAILOR’S CHALKSX Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches.…

IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

THE HERO’S CLOSET: SEWING FOR COSPLAY AND COSTUMING Gillian Conahan (£15.99, Abrams Books) Coming from a cos player who also happens to be editor-in-chief of Vogue Patterns magazine, expect high standards of authenticity with this book, packed with essential step-by-steps and inspiration. www.abramsbooks.com FIX YOUR CLOTHES: THE SUSTAINABLE MAGIC OF MENDING, PATCHING, AND DARNING Raleigh Briggs (£6.50, Microcosm Publishing) This is the book we wish we had when we first discovered refashioning. With Raleigh’s quirky illustrations and chatty writing style, tricky mending jobs suddenly seem oh-so simple. www.microcosmpublishing.com SEW YOUR OWN DOLLS: 25 STYLISH DOLLS TO MAKE AND PERSONALIZE Louise Kelly (£12.99, CICO Books) Once you’ve mastered the basic shapes of these dolls, you can go mad with stylish outfits, characterful details and on-trend accessories, and even add a few…

There’s nothing quite like a touch of Liberty print to show off your stitching in style. At StitchKits, Ruth Caig’s range of fabric-covered embroidery hoops come in a selection of irresistible Liberty tana lawn designs and colourways. Available in a range of sizes, the hoops look beautiful decorated with the retro florals. Just add your own embroidered design for a bespoke work of art. From £5.20 each, www.stitchkits.etsy.com…

We don’t know where we’d be without our trusty sewing machine. From stylish home furnishings to special occasion frocks, it has sewn them all! This Brother Innovis 15 machine (worth £249) is great for stitchers of all skill levels, whether you’re new to sewing and are looking for an easy-to-use starter machine, or are a more experienced sewist in need of a machine that will take your stitching to the next level – and we’ve got one to give away to a lucky reader, in collaboration with sewing machine specialists Frank Nutt. This computerised machine is packed with features, including 16 stitch selections, a top-loading bobbin, a start-stop button, a built-in needle threader, three one-step buttonhole styles and a drop-feed function. Enter today at www.simplysewingmag.com, and see Frank Nutt’s range…

WATCH ONLINE From pandas to sausage dogs, the pool of talented guest designers at Sewing Quarter have been designing and making all sorts of fun animal-themed kits for their shows. Our absolute fave has to be this sausage dog draught excluder! Don’t worry if you’ve missed any, you can catch-up at www.youtube.com/sewingquarter EDITOR’S PICK SHOP ONLINE TODAY! You can now buy custom-cut fabric by the half-metre, from just £3.50, in our online shop. But that’s not all! You’ll find dress patterns, pre-cut fabric bundles, books, tools, craft kits and more at www.sewingquarter.com MEET THEDESIGNER PORTIA LAWRIE TELL US A BIT ABOUT YOURSELF... “I have been blogging since 2009 and contributing to Simply Sewing for over two years. I’m also the founder of The Refashioners (www.makery.uk/therefashioners) - an annual event aimed…

YOU WILL NEED Blue jeans fabric: 22x75cm (9x30in) Faux suede: navy blue, 50x70cm (20x28in) Cotton lining fabric: navy blue, 50x70cm (20x28in) 4 wooden beads: 5mm (¼in) hole 8 eyelets: copper, 1cm (3/8in) Textile glue Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one From the denim jeans cut out the following pieces: Centre strip: 18x66cm (71/8x26in). Drawstring: 4x75cm (15/8x30in). Step two From the faux suede cut out the following pieces: Lower strip: 11x66cm (43/8x26in). Top outer strip and top inner strip: cut two pieces, 8x66cm (31/8x26in). Base: cut a circle with a 23cm (91/8in) diameter. Strap: 8x70cm (31/8x275/8in). Drawstring adjuster: 8x8cm (31/8x31/8in). Step three From the lining fabric cut out the following pieces: Bag lining: 26x66cm (10¼x26in). Base lining: cut a circle, 23cm (91/8in)…

“EVERY CHALLENGE SINCE HAS GAINED MORE AND MORE PARTICIPANTS, WITH 2016’S SEEING ABOUT 800.” Browse your favourite sewing blogs and scroll through social media in May, and you’ll likely discover even more sewing inspiration than usual, as sewists across the world proudly wear and share their beautiful handmade garments in aid of Me-Made-May. Zoë Edwards, the woman behind the growing Me-Made-May phenomenon, discovered the joys of sewing early. “My mum and nan were seamstresses at various points of their lives, so sewing as a way to acquire or alter clothes was presented to me as ‘normal’ from a very young age,” she says. “As it was a job rather than a pastime for them, however, they didn’t show it to be particularly fun or joyous! My mum is very petite,…

YOU WILL NEED Main plush fabric: green, 50x50cm (20x20in) Eyes plush fabric: white, 9x9cm (4x4in) Felt (for lily pad): green, 15x25cm (6x10in) Pair of 8mm black plastic safety eyes Polyester toy filling Stranded cotton: black Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Main fabric: Smooth Cuddle 3 in Apple Green or Smooth Cuddle 3 in Seafoam. Eyes fabric: Smooth Cuddle 3 in Snow White. FINISHED SIZE Approx: 32cm (125/8in) full length or 19cm (7½in) sitting. NOTES • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet included with this issue. • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace and cut out all the template pieces. The templates include the seam allowances where necessary and the arrows indicate the print direction for marking and…

YOU WILL NEED Fat quarter Fleece fabric: 20x30cm (8x12in) Hairband 2 small buttons Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Dream a Little Grey from the Faraway Forest collection by Blend, available from www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk NOTES • These little shoes are made for pre-walkers. They’re not recommended for walkers due to slippy bottoms. • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet included with this issue. • This pattern is for size 0-6 months, if you want to make them in a bigger size just add 5mm (¼in) to the shoe base and back end of the upper part of the shoe. • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Draw around the templates for the sole and upper and cut them out to make your pattern…

Machine embroidery is really just drawing with your sewing machine. It’s a versatile technique, quick to do and produces a beautiful handmade look. It doesn’t require any specialist equipment, just a sewing machine, a hoop and some fabric. It’s a great way to use up all those tiny scraps from your fabric stash. Practising to start with and trying different settings on your sewing machine to see which work best is all you’ll need to get started. SEWING MACHINE You need to be able to lower the feed dogs so you can move your fabric around freely as you stitch. Your manual will tell you if this is possible, but most machines can. For some of the older machines you can simply remove the foot and sew without it but…

BACK WAIST LENGTH From the top of your spine at the base of your neck to your natural waist BUST Around the fullest part of your bust HIPS Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom HEIGHT : Stand against a wall, barefoot, then measure from the top of your head to the floor HIGH BUST/CHEST : Across the back, under your arms and above the bust WAIST : Your natural waistline, around the slimmest part of your waist ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on…

UNIVERSAL A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too. BALL POINT This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. JEANS A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims. SHARPS With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes. LEATHER This needle’s wedge-shaped cutting point is used to work strong seams on non-woven fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl. STRETCH Designed for sewing two-way stretch knits such as lycra and silk jersey. It prevents skipped stitches on fine knit fabrics. QUILTING This will pierce multiple layers whilst…

DRAPE A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities. EASE The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well. EDGESTITCH A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place. FACING This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline. FAT QUARTER A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). FINISHING/NEATENING RAW EDGES This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam,…