Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 28 i Simply Sewing

As I write this letter we’re still riding high from hosting The British Craft Awards, an event which saw 21,500 readers cast their votes for their favourite designers, sewists, bloggers, shops, and more! This year a brand new sewing category was added (yay!) so thank you to everyone who voted, and congratulations to our winners. It was a fabulous evening and really inspiring to meet so many talented people. See for yourself on page 70. Enjoy! Charlie Moorby, Editor PS: GET BONUS LIBERTY FABRICS when you subscribe (see p36)…

SEW CAROLINE WEEKEND STYLE Caroline Hulse (£18.99, Fons and Porter) Caroline Hulse, aka Sew Caroline, shares 15 stylish simple-sew patterns for your handmade weekend wardrobe, from easy-to-wear separates to go-to accessories, with plenty of tips for beginners. Psst! Turn to page 58 for a peek at Caroline’s enviable sewing space. www.fonsandporter.com EASY STUFF TO MAKE WITH FLUFF Gillian Harris (£9.99, Pavilion) Try a new craft and give your home a colour boost with 25 weaving, spinning, knitting and crochet projects to make with fluff, or wooltops – fluffy pieces of unspun wool. Inspiring ideas include cushions, bags, brooches, rugs and more. www.pavilionbooks.com THE SKIRT EMPORIUM Madame Zsazsa (£12.99, Search Press) Sew up a wardrobe of skirt styles with this book’s full-size patterns, with A-line, circle, straight, gathered, bell, wraparound and elasticated…

PINEAPPLE POP Go tropical with this juicy pineapple motif, hand-stitched with glass beads. Approx £31, www.manaraya.etsy.com BLOOMING LOVELY Top off a floral frock with these delicate stitched blooms in a scalloped brooch. Approx £29, www. arorua.etsy.com SHE SELLS SEA SHELLS Pack this sweet mini hoop shell necklace for your next beach break. Approx £20, www.makemonster  co.etsy.com OMBRE OOH Wear a little piece of hand-stitched art with this custom-made mini hoop necklace. Approx £28, www.thread  honeydesign.com GET CRAFTY Choose from several colourful designs to embroider yourself. From approx £5, www.dandelyne. etsy.com…

HOW ARE YOU FINDING LIVE TV? “I’m really enjoying it. I was quite nervous to start with but I quickly got used to forgetting the cameras are there and just getting on with sewing. There’s a real personal side to presenting on live TV where you can interact with the viewers as they send in their messages. ” WHAT’S THE BEST THING ABOUT IT? “In Simply Sewing I have to explain everything in words which would take a minute to demonstrate. It’s great being able to show the viewers different techniques so they can really understand.” WHAT ARE YOU MOST ENJOYING SHOWING VIEWERS? “I love being able to show quick ways and little cheat methods so whatever their skill level they can learn something.” Rebecca also works as Technical Editor…

LAUNDRY HAMPER YOU WILL NEED Outer fabric: 135x112cm (53x44in) Lining fabric: 200x112cm (78x44in) Bondaweb: 10x40cm (4x16in) Foam:180x72cm (71x28in) Webbing: 3x120cm (1¼x47in) Nylon cord: 150cm (60in) Spring toggle Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED Outer fabric : Linen Texture, Steel Grey. Ref: 1473/S5. From Basics by Makower. Contrast fabric: Fishes, Orange. Ref: 1772/N. From Marina by Makower. For stockist information visit www.makoweruk.com Foam : Style Vil from Vlieseline. For stockists email crafts@stockist enquiries.co.uk NOTES Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance. The appliqué template is on the pull-out pattern sheet provided. CUTTING OUT Step one From the outer fabric cut: Base: 43cm (171/8in) diameter circle. Body: 63x135cm (247/8x53in). Handles: two strips 6x60cm each (23/8x235/8in). Step two From the lining fabric cut: Base: 43cm (171/8in) diameter circle. Body: 63x135cm (247/8x53in). Drawstring top: 35x135cm (13¾x53in).…

Caroline Hulse of www.sewcaroline.com describes herself as a mama, wife, sewing enthusiast, pattern designer and fabric designer – mostly, but not always, in that order. Her fresh, modern approach to creating beautiful garments from the fabrics she dreams up makes hers a truly holistic approach. It all makes sense when she admits that for her sewing began as an attempt to harness and focus her creative urges. “I asked for a sewing machine for Christmas 2008, with the intention of having a simple creative outlet,” she says. “I was given a Janome Magnolia 7330. I didn’t know anything about sewing, but I was determined to learn. It was love at first stitch.” Her passion is based around a longstanding infatuation with fabrics. “I had tried scrapbooking, painting and other things,…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric Contrast fabric for piping Piping cord Continuous zip Foam Wadding Stockinette Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES • The instructions detail how to measure up and calculate the sizes and dimension of the materials you will need to make your cushion. • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance. CALCULATING THE CUTTING SIZES Step one Choose the right thickness of foam for your cushion and have a piece cut to match the length (L) and width (W) of your bench. For a bench like this one, 10cm (4in) thick foam is a good choice. The height (thickness) of the foam is measurement H (see measuring diagram). Step two Use the measurements of the foam pad to calculate the sizes of the fabric pieces you need to…

YOU WILL NEED Fabric A (for front of head): 20x15cm (8x6in) Fabric B (for main body and tail): 30x30cm (12x12in) Fabric C (for wings and back head): 26x32cm (10x13in) Fabric D (for beak and feet): 12x12cm (5x5in) Wadding: 25x25cm (10x10in) Polyester toy filling Stranded cotton: black Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Fabric A: Mini Pearl Bracelets in White on White, Lizzie House, Andover; Dalmation in Citrus, Blueberry Park for Robert Kaufman. Fabric B: Kona Cotton Solid in Jamaica, Robert Kaufman; Kona Cotton Solid in Parrot, Robert Kaufman. Fabric C: Dentals in Black, Carkai, Carolyn Friedlander for Robert Kaufman. Fabric D: Kona Cotton Solid in Honey, Robert Kaufman. Fabric E: Raindrops in Leaf, Modern Batik Collection, Hoffman Fabrics. FINISHED SIZE Approx: 18cm (7in) tall. NOTES • If you would like to…

MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. TAILOR’S CHALKSX Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches.…

IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects…

DRAPE A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities. EASE The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well. EDGESTITCH A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place. FACING This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline. FAT QUARTER A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). FINISHING/NEATENING RAW EDGES This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam,…

JESSICA ENTWISTLE Regular Simply Sewing contributor Jessica makes everything from hair slides to badges for her craft sideline ‘jellybgood’. She shows you how to sew an infinity scarf and patchwork cushion with this month’s subscriber Liberty fabric on page 38. LAURA STRUTT Laura Strutt is an author and textile designer who enjoys all aspects of sewing, from dressmaking to quilting, embroidery to customising and everything in between. She shares a simple girl’s dress project from her latest book on page 75. PAULINE GUILLET French designer Pauline Guillet, aka Pauline Alice, started sewing her own clothes when she needed a hobby after moving to Spain, and set up her own pattern brand in 2013. Admire her stunning handmade wedding dress on page 98. JO CARTER Jo worked for 10 years as…

Handmade Clothing Company founder Amy McLean set up her business after welcoming her baby daughter in 2014. Amy “loved dressing her in beautiful dresses. A friend suggested Liberty fabrics, and as I loved sewing and wanted more time for my children, the idea was born.” She started in 2015, selling garments for women and children “handmade from start to finish using the best Liberty fabrics.” From £15, www.handmadeclothingcompany.com…

YOU WILL NEED For the skirt Medium to heavyweight jersey fabric: 150cm (60in) width x 1m (1yd) Elastic: 3cm (1¼in) width x 1m (1yd) Fusible hemming tape: to fit around hem Patternmaster or French curve (optional, but recommended) Pattern paper Basic sewing kit For the obi belt Heavyweight woven material, such as faux leather or suede: 50x147cm (20x58in) Basic sewing kit NOTES Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. If you’ve not made a paper pattern before, buy paper marked with 1cm squares, which will make it a little easier to draw accurately. Designer Rosee Woodland says: “This pattern includes everything you need to make a slim- fitting knit pencil skirt and stylish obi belt. You’ll spend a short time taking measurements and then drawing out your pattern,…

YOU WILL NEED Blue jeans in different shades Cotton piping cord: 5mm (¼in) diameter x 1m (1¼yds) Silver curb chain: 80cm (31½in) 2 ribbon clamps: 8x35mm, silver Lobster clasp, silver 4 jump rings: 6mm (¼in), silver Jewellery pliers Air erasable marker Textile glue Basic sewing kit CUTTING OUT We used three different shades of denim for a graduated look, so this project is ideal for using up scraps of old jeans. Step one To get the longest strips from your jeans, cut them on the reverse just below the back pockets. Step two Cut one strip 6x30cm (23/8x12in), one strip 6x28cm (23/8x11in) and one strip 6x26cm (23/8x10¼in). We cut the shortest strip from the darkest denim and the longest from the lightest. FRAYING THE LONG SIDES Step one Mark the…

YOU WILL NEED 1 fat quarter Contrast plain fabric: 30x70cm (12x28in) Bias binding: 52cm (20½in) Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED Floral from Sweet Escape by Bethan Janine for Dashwood Studio. Ref: SUES1188. Available from www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk CUTTING OUT Step one Cut the contrast fabric strip for the waistband into three strips, each measuring 10x70cm (4x28in). Step two Cut the fat quarter as follows: Main apron: 31x56cm (12x22in). Pocket: 15x52 (6x20½in). MAKING THE WAISTBAND Step one Pin two waistband strips right sides (RS) together at right angles and then sew together diagonally across.01 Step two Trim the seam and press open. Step three Join on the other strip in the same way to make one long strip. Step four Fold the strip in half lengthways wrong sides (WS) together then press under…

Since their launch in 1998, the British Craft Awards (BCA) have served as a means for readers of Immediate Media’s magazines to celebrate the craft brands and individuals they love. In the early days, the focus was on cross stitch and papercrafts, but in 2017 sewing has been included for the very first time, and we’re thrilled to be able to reward some of our favourite sewing brands and bloggers and be part of the excitement. BCA organiser Anna Davenport has been involved since the ceremony’s beginnings. “Between 300 and 400 people attend each year,” she says. “The plan was always to introduce more awards for categories such as sewing and yarn crafts, and this year we’ve had awards across five sectors: quilting and patchwork; cross stitch; papercrafts; yarn crafts…

YOU WILL NEED Print fabric A: 21x74cm (8¼x291/8in) Print fabric B: 21x37cm (8¼x145/8in) Print fabric C: 65x65cm (255/8x255/8in) Calico: 90x110 (35½x43in) Water erasable pen Basic sewing kit NOTE Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut out the following pieces: Print fabric A: two pieces 21x37cm (8¼x145/8in) each, for pockets 1 and 3. Print fabric B: 21x37cm (8¼x145/8in), for pocket 2. Print fabric C: 65x65cm (255/8x255/8in), flap. Step two Cut out the following pieces from the calico: 21x107cm (8¼x42in), pocket lining. 65x65cm (255/8x255/8in), flap lining. ASSEMBLING THE POCKETS Step one Place pocket 1 and pocket 2 right sides (RS) facing and stitch together down the left short side of pocket 2. Press the seam open. Step two Place pocket 3 RS facing with pocket 2 and stitch…

BACK WAIST LENGTH From the top of your spine at the base of your neck to your natural waist BUST Around the fullest part of your bust HIPS Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom HEIGHT Stand against a wall, barefoot, then measure from the top of your head to the floor HIGH BUST/CHEST Across the back, under your arms and above the bust WAIST Your natural waistline, around the slimmest part of your waist ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope…

UNIVERSAL A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too. BALL POINT This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. JEANS A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims. SHARPS With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes. LEATHER This needle’s wedge-shaped cutting point is used to work strong seams on non-woven fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl. STRETCH Designed for sewing two-way stretch knits such as lycra and silk jersey. It prevents skipped stitches on fine knit fabrics. QUILTING This will pierce multiple layers whilst…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

TIME TO PLAY Ever since Finnish pattern label Named launched in 2013, we’ve excitedly anticipated each inspiring new collection – and now the wait for its spring/summer 2017 designs is finally over! Titled Playground, the collection has eight styles for sewists to play with, inspired by the simplicity of childrenswear. Featuring interesting cuts and unique design details, the patterns offer the perfect balance of comfort and cool. From www.namedclothing.com HOLIDAY VIBES Simplicity has your holiday dressmaking all sewn up with its new pattern collection, which ticks all the trend boxes with ruffles, co-ord sets and off-the-shoulder styles, plus mini-me versions for little ones. We’re all going on a handmade summer holiday! From www.simplicitynewlook.co.uk BACK TO BLACK When we just can’t decide what to wear, we always turn to…

25 MARCH-22 OCTOBER House Style: Five Centuries of Fashion at Chatsworth. Derbyshire. A sumptuous display of clothing from 15 generations of Chatsworth residents and contemporary designers. www.chatsworth.org 31 MARCH-2 APRIL Spring Quilt Festival. Westpoint, Exeter. Admire creations made by some of your favourite quilters, attend workshops and shop supplies. www.grosvenorshows.co.uk 3-9 APRIL World Craft Week. Join us for a week of celebrating all things crafty on social media – every craft is welcome! Search #worldcraftweek for how to get involved. 24-30 APRIL Fashion Revolution Week. An online movement celebrating the people around the world who make clothes for the high street. www.fashionrevolution.org…

WATCH IT What a busy few months! Since its launch in January, Sewing Quarter’s presenters John Scott and Natasha McCarty (right) have hosted over 200 live shows alongside 12 guest designers › including our very own Technical Editor Rebecca (far right) We’ve seen everything from soft toys to bags made live on air. There’s so much to enjoy, whatever your sewing level. Tune in today and see it for yourself on Freeview channel 78, or watch and shop online at www.sewingquarter.com BUY IT YOU CAN NOW BUY FABRIC ONLINE! Love the fabric our designers use? You can now buy custom-cut fabric by the half-metre, from just £3.50, in our online shop. Buy fat quarters, jelly rolls, charm packs, and more at www.sewingquarter.com LIVE everyday 8am - 12 noon · FREEVIEW…

Denim is one of our favourite fabrics to wear and sew with, and we’ll be sharing the joys of stitching with this versatile fabric with one lucky winner this month thanks to our prize bundle of beautiful denim fabrics, sewing patterns and notions from The Denim Company, worth £250! The prize bundle includes: 5 x 2 metre lengths of 140cm wide denim, including four patterned and one plain stretch denim; 10 patterned and plain denim fat quarters; a handmade mini sewing box filled with binding, ribbons and buttons; and three sewing patterns: Burda 6849, New Look 6095 and Burda 6881. Enter today at www.simplysewingmag.com, and find The Denim Company at www.thedenimcompany.co.uk See www.simplysewingmag.com  to enter today! (UK only, see competition rules on p6.)…

INFINITY SCARF YOU WILL NEED Lightweight cotton fabric: 33x66cm (13x26in) each of six different fabrics Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Liberty tana lawn: Mila B; Estelle and Annabelle B; Oxton; Newland Blue; Ros H; English Field B. Available from www.alicecaroline.co.uk NOTE Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut each of the six fabrics into two squares measuring 33x33cm (13x13in) each to make 12 squares in total. JOININGTHE SQUARES Step one Arrange your squares into two rows of six, making sure the same colours aren’t touching so you achieve a patchwork effect. Our scarf has the same order of fabrics but one side is a mirror of the other. Play around with the arrangement by laying the squares on a flat surface until you are happy with…

If our obi belt tutorial on page 44 has inspired you to add more faux suede makes to your handmade wardrobe, try this simple skirt project by fashion and DIY blogger, Merrick’s Art. Like Merrick, we’ve been admiring all the 1970s-style suede skirts in the shops this season, so of course we’ll be making our own! This versatile retro style can be worn with so many of our favourite tops – knits, tees, blouses, you name it – and can be made to your measurements for a perfect fit. See the tutorial at www.merricksart.com…

YOU WILL NEED Cable knit jumper Cushion pad Basic sewing kit NOTE • Use a 3cm (1¼in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Place your cushion pad on top of your jumper to make sure it fits with a little space. We used a cushion pad measuring 40x40cm (16x16in) for ours.01 Step two Now cut the jumper down the side seams and across the shoulder seams, removing the sleeves. The front and back of the jumper will be used for the front and back of your cushion cover. Step three Measure the size of your cushion pad and add 3cm (1¼in) to each side and 3cm (1¼in) to the top edge. The bottom rib of the jumper will be used for the bottom of the cushion cover so you don’t…

YOU WILL NEED Plain cotton fabric: 70x112cm (28x44in), for the bodice Striped cotton fabric: 42x150cm (17x60in), for the skirt Plain cotton fabric: 8.5x15cm (33/8x6in), for the button placket Jumbo ric rac: 25cm (10in) 3 buttons: 2.5xcm (1in) diameter Basic sewing kit SIZES The patterns are for ages 2-3, 3-4 and 4-5 years. NOTES • For fabric with large prints, you may need to increase the fabric quantities to accommodate the motifs and allow for pattern matching. • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. Designer Laura says: “This slip-on dress with simple tie straps is the perfect addition to a little girl’s summer wardrobe. Big, bright, candy-striped buttons provide an eye-catching finishing touch, but are purely for decoration – so there are no fiddly buttonholes to sew!” CUTTING…

LEARN THE TECHNIQUE Crewel embroidery has been around for centuries, going back to Medieval times, with the Bayeux Tapestry being the most famous example. Traditional crewel embroidery designs include flowers, leaves, birds and animals. It’s ideal for stitching onto clothing and a lovely way to individualise something you already own, like a jacket, cardigan or a pair of jeans. HOW TO TRANSFER A DESIGN The way you transfer your design depends on the weight, colour and type of fabric you’re using. The easiest way is to simply trace the design by sticking it onto a window with the fabric on top so that the light shines through. Trace over the design using a pencil or water erasable pen. For dark fabrics, use white chalk or transfer pencil. Dressmakers carbon paper…

Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

PURELY PATCHWORK Baby Jungle by Makower UK priced at £12 p/m. View the collection at: purelypatchwork.co.uk 01506 846200 to order CRAFTY SEW & SO Crafty Sew&So have everything you need for your next sewing project! Use code CRAFTY10 to get 10% off your first order online! craftysewandso.com LEICESTERSHIRE CRAFT CENTRE Craft kits that really work! Our kits are based on our popular workshops and include the same high quality materials. leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk SEW PRETTY Sew Pretty offers small and friendly dressmaking sewing classes for adults and kids of all levels in Katya’s relaxed studio in Wimbledon (SW London). sewpretty.me.uk RACHEL’S TEXTILES STUDIO, JERSEY Exciting fabrics, trims & sewing essentials, gift vouchers, Janome machines. Sewing and creative classes for students and adults of all levels. rachelstextilesstudio.com BOBBINS & BOLTS Bobbins & Bolts is…