Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 27 i Simply Sewing

LOUISE O’MAHONEY Brighton-based designer Louise O’Mahony is the owner of Oh My Honey, a 1950s-inspired fashion and wedding dress brand. More recently, she’s launched L.O.M, creating vibrant party and festival dresses. Discover her designs on page 72. EMILY HUNDT Pattern designer Emily Hundt discovered her love of sewing aged nine and studied fashion and textiles at university in Sydney. She launched her own pattern label, In the Folds, in 2015. She shows us her favourite handmade dress on page 98. PORTIA LAWRIE Portia is a regular Simply Sewing contributor and blogs at www.makery.co.uk. She also runs The Refashioners challenge, now in its fourth year. See her zip pencil skirt refashion on page 50, and take a tour of her enviable sewing space on page 48. DOLAPO JAMES Born in Nigeria,…

FLY AWAY HOME Go up, up and away with this balloon mobile for baby’s bedroom. From £31, www.feltonthefly.etsy.com BUTTON MOON Little sleepyheads will be over the moon with this mini crescent pillow. Approx £15, www. lilyrazz.etsy.com WHALE HELLO THERE Have a whale of a time sewing this characterful mobile for the nursery. £18, www.yewleaf  wishes.etsy.com RAIN OR SHINE Make this garland to cheer up your space whatever the weather. From £16.50, www.polly  chromecrafts.etsy.com BEAR WITH IT If you go down to the woods today, be sure bring this friendly feltie. £8.95, www.dot  comgiftshop.com…

Ankara “This is a wax-resist cotton textile with origins in Indonesia, the Netherlands and England,” says Dolapo. “The bright colours and bold patterns have been wholeheartedly adopted by West Africans and is worn for both formal and casual occasions.” Aso-Oke “Pronounced ah-SHOW-kay, this is short for Aso Ilu Oke, which means clothes from the up-country,” Dolapo explains. “It’s a hand-loomed cloth woven by the Yoruba tribe of southwest Nigeria and is usually worn for coronations, festivals, weddings, funerals, engagement parties, naming ceremonies and other important events and special occasions.” Adire “Pronounced ah-d-reh, this is the name originally given to indigo dyed cloth made by Yoruba women in southwestern Nigeria,” says Dolapo. “The techniques used to create the organic and distinct patterns include folding, stitching and threading before dyeing, similar to…

Make the most of your next day off by stitching Jessica Entwistle’s inspiring appliqué banner. YOU WILL NEED Dark blue jeans White denim scraps Cotton backing fabric: dark blue, 45x25cm (18x10in) Bondaweb: 25x25cm (10x10in) Dowel rod: 32cm (12½in) long Twine: 1m (1yd) Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTE You will find the template needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one The outer lines of the template indicate the finished size of the edges of the banner to help with your letter placement. Draw around this then add 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance to the sides and lower pointed edges. Add 4cm (15/8in) to the top edge as this will be turned over to form a casing for the…

YOU WILL NEED 2 cotton pillowcases and duvet cover: white Dylon machine dye: fuschia pink, 1 pack Cotton fabric: 50x50cm (20x20in) to make the heart Appliqué fabric: 15x30cm (6x12in), for the letters Bondaweb: 50x70cm (20x28in) Basic sewing kit NOTE You will find the templates needed to make this project on the pull-out pattern sheet provided. R&B Designs says: “We have designed these pillowcases so you can give your loved one a surprise on Valentine’s Day. To make it simple we have sewn the heart shapes onto the back of the pillowcase so that there are no issues with the pillowcase flap. We have added a 1cm (3/8in) straight edge where the cases join because once the pillow is inserted the heart becomes distorted and adding the extra prevents this.” GETTING…

LEARN THE TECHNIQUE Collars are an important finishing touch for many garments and are often the focal point your eye will be drawn to, so it’s important they are neat, precise and lie well. You can add a collar to a garment which doesn’t have one already, or even change an existing collar to give a different style and look. CUTTING OUT When you cut out the fabric for your new collar, make sure the grainline faces in the correct direction. This will be shown on your pattern piece, but, if not, then it will usually go straight down the centre back of the collar. It’s important that you cut out the collar accurately, especially at the points and curves. Collars have two sections, one for the outer and one…

Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size…

TWIRL THING The newest addition to the Tilly and the Buttons sewing pattern family is sure to please fans of Tilly’s cult favourite Coco pattern. Designed for knit fabrics (with no overlocker required!) and featuring a flattering pleated skirt, quirky Z-shaped seams (great for colour-blocking) and hidden pockets, Zadie is the perfect comfy, throw-on-and-go, everyday dress. We’ll be making several! £12.50, shop.tillyandthebuttons.com MIX AND MATCH When a pattern includes almost endless variations to mix and match, we can’t resist adding it to our stash! Pauline Alice’s Aldaia jersey dress features five necklines and three skirt and sleeve styles to experiment with. Time to raid our stash of jerseys and get creative! £13.50, www.backstitch.co.uk FIXER UPPER Even the most experienced stitchers can make mistakes, so having a trusty seam…

AND WE’RE LIVE! Sewing Quarter is the UK’s first shopping channel dedicated to sewing and quilting - and it’s on right now! It’s brought to you by the publishers of all your favourite craft magazines and presented by crafty duo John Scott and Natasha McCarty (right) who are as passionate about sewing and quilting as you are. From clothes and quilts, to bags and toys, join the panel of Sewing Quarter designers live on Freeview channel 78 everday - or watch and shop online at www.sewingquarter.com LIVE everyday 8am - 12 noon · FREEVIEW CHANNEL 78 · www.sewingquarter.com SPECIAL OFFER FREE SEWING KIT WORTH £14.99 WITH YOUR FIRST PURCHASE * (T&C’S APPLY) *Free sewing kit available on your first purchase only with a minimum spend of £10 (excl.P&P). While stocks last.…

BIRTHDAY BANNER YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 40x112cm (16x44in) Contrast fabrics: 20x112cm (8x44in) each of four different fabrics Bondaweb: 30x40cm (12x16in) Cotton tape or bias binding: 2cm (¾in) width x 4m (4yds) Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED Main fabric: Confetti, Multi. Ref: C9BS153933. Contrast fabric: Trellis, Navy. Ref: C9BS154412; Trellis, Turquoise. Ref: C9BS154403; Trellis, Purple. Ref: C9BS154409; Trellis, Coral. Ref: C9BS154415. The fabrics used are from Brushstrokes by Holly Degroot by Cloud9 Fabrics. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/cloud9 NOTES Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. You will find the template on the pull-out pattern sheet provided. CUTTING OUT The materials given are for making thirteen flags to spell out ‘Happy Birthday’ as we have done. If you want to make different letters then adjust the quantities accordingly. We have used four…

BUNTING YOU WILL NEED Cotton fabrics: eight pieces in a selection of grey, green, yellow and beige, 5x20cm (6x8in) each Cotton canvas: cream or natural, 40x60cm (16x24in) Heavy duty iron-on interfacing: 40x60cm (16x24in) 8 pom poms: white glitter Cotton lace: 2.5cm (1in) width x 150cm (60in) 8 miniature wooden clothes pegs Basic sewing kit NOTE • You will find the template needed to make this project on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. CUTTINGTHE FABRIC Step one Trace around the template and cut it out to make your bunny pattern. The same pattern is used for each bunny but you can enlarge or reduce them on a photocopier if you want to alter the sizes for a different look. Or, you could get creative and make one larger…

YOU WILL NEED Fat quarter Medium weight interfacing: 25x30cm (10x12in) Velcro: hook and loop sew in, 9cm (35/8in) strip Small button Polyester wadding Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Pins and Needles, Cream. Ref: A182.1. Pins and Needles, Grey. Ref: A182.2. From the Threaded with Love collection by Lewis & Irene.www.lewisandirene.com NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut the fat quarter as follows: Wrist strap: 12x26cm (4¾x10¼in). Cushion: 10x20cm (4x8in).01 Step two Cut the interfacing to the same size and then press each piece onto the wrong side (WS) of the corresponding fabric pieces. Step three Cut both sides of the Velcro: Wrist strap: 6cm (23/8in) strip. Cushion: 3cm (1¼in) strip. MAKING THE WRIST STRAP Step one Press the wrist strap fabric in half lengthways…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 70x112cm (28x44in) Lining fabric: 70x112cm (28x44in) Medium weight iron-on interfacing: 70x90cm (28x36in) Felt: 5x8cm (2x3in) Magnetic clasp 2 D-rings: 25mm (1in) 2 lobster clasps on 25mm (1in) rings 4 bag feet 4 rivet popper sets Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Main fabric: Nigerian Adire. Lining fabric: Blue Ankara. Both from www.urbanstax.etsy.com NOTES You will find the templates needed to make this project on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace around the templates then cut them out to make your pattern pieces. Step two Where the pattern indicates to cut on the fold, fold the fabric in half, pin the pattern with the foldline on the fold and cut around it. Step three…

YOU WILL NEED Fabric: see instructions for sizing Roller blind kit: consisting of pre-adhesive taped top roller, side winder or spring mechanism, bottom bar and end brackets Fabric stiffener: PVA spray or solution Basic sewing kit BEFORE YOU START Step one How you measure for a blind will be determined by whether it is to go inside or outside the window recess. Measure the finished width and drop you need. Step two Following the manufacturer’s instructions for your roller blind kit, cut the pole to the required length, which is the finished width of the blind. Step three Use the cutting diagram on the right to work out the cutting width and length of your blind fabric. The cutting length is: Drop of blind + diameter of pole + 5cm…

YOU WILL NEED 6 fat quarters: in plain bright contrast colours Cotton voile or sheer fabric: 150cm (60in) width x 4m (4yds) Bondaweb: 30x30cm (12x12in) Cotton tape: 2cm (¾in) width x 2m (2 yds) Satin ribbon: in a contrast colour, 1cm (3/8in) wide x 4m (4yds), for ties Metal bridal boning: 180cm (70in) (nylon boning can be used, but use double this for extra rigidity) Yarn for pom poms Pom pom maker Basic sewing kit NOTE • You will find the templates needed to make this project on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT THE CANOPY Step one Trace around the templates and cut them out to make your pattern pieces. Step two Pin the canopy panel template on…

MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. TAILOR’S CHALKSX Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches.…

IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects…

UNIVERSAL A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too. BALL POINT This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. JEANS A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims. SHARPS With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes. LEATHER This needle’s wedge-shaped cutting point is used to work strong seams on non-woven fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl. STRETCH Designed for sewing two-way stretch knits such as lycra and silk jersey. It prevents skipped stitches on fine knit fabrics. QUILTING This will pierce multiple layers whilst…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

CHALK HILL BLUE FABRICS Supplier of patchwork fabrics, threads, waddings and notions. Keep up with events on Facebook! 01903 230008 FB/Chalk-Hill-Blue-Fabrics READS OF WINCHESTER Sales, services and repairs. All makes of sewing machine, new and reconditioned, plus a small haberdashery. reads-of-winchester.co.uk RONA SEWING MACHINES Bernina Platinum dealer. Stockists of Juki, Brother, Janome & Husqvarna. Repairs to all makes. Suppliers to education for sales/service. onlinesewingmachines.co.uk PURELY PATCHWORK Darling Little Dickens Collection by Moda, priced at £14.40 p/m. Visit their website to view the collection. purelypatchwork.co.uk 01506 846200 TRANSWORLD SEWING MACHINES Whatever you require sewing machines for, we can provide a comprehensive selection of fantastic machines perfect for you. 01942 608 028 CRAFTY SEW & SO Crafty Sew&So have everything you need for your next sewing project! Use code CRAFTY10 to get 10%…

TARTAN+TWEED Caroline Young and Ann Martin (£25, Frances Lincoln) Follow the fascinating history of traditional tartan and tweed fabrics, from the Scottish highlands to high-end designer catwalks and contemporary art, music and films, through original documents, paintings and fashion photographs. www.quartoknows.com MARVEL UNIVERSE FELT Aimee Ray (£20, Thunder Bay Press) Save the world one stitch at a time with this superhero book and kit by Aimee Ray, with a 48-page instruction book and everything you need to make ten mighty-but-mini versions of your favourite Marvel characters.www.thunderbaybooks.com CUSHIONS, CURTAINS & BLINDS (£12.99, DK Books) Channel your inner interior designer with this bumper book of 25 simple home furnishing projects, with step-by-steps for making pouffes, bedspreads, cushions and blinds. Psst! Turn to page 69 for an exclusive roller blind project from the…

HOW ARE YOU FINDING LIVE TV? “I thought I’d be really nervous, but I’m not! John and Natasha, our presenters, make it feel like we’re hanging out with a bunch of friends when we’re at the studios - it’s really good fun!” WHAT’S THE BEST THING ABOUT IT? “This is the first channel totally dedicated to sewing, which is amazing. I can’t explain how happy that makes me! The fact that people can buy the products whilst being shown how to use them is great too.” WHAT ARE YOU MOST ENJOYING SHOWING VIEWERS? “My fave thing so far has to be showing how to insert zips. Lots of people tell me that they are nervous about inserting zips so anything I can do to to show them how easy they…

With spring on its way, we’re making plans for stitching transitional style classics that will work for warm weather, chilly days and everything in between – and we’ve got just the pattern! Cotton + Chalk’s The Nina Dress is a classic shirt dress that will see you through the spring, summer and beyond, from work to weekend – just add a smart jacket, slouchy cardi or casual cover-up. She’s our new favourite wear-with-anything frock! With so many options to mix and match, the Nina Dress is a wardrobe-building pattern to add to your stash that’ll look different every time you make it. This design is all about the details – keep it simple with a sleeveless version, add plain short sleeves, or pretty it up with a ruffled hem and…

“AFRICAN FABRICS ARE ACTUALLY WORLD FABRICS, WITH HISTORIES FROM MORE THAN ONE COUNTRY.” Growing up in Nigeria ensured that entrepreneur Dolapo James developed an appreciation of patterns and textiles at a very young age. “My parents, grandparents and I all wore patterned fabrics as casual clothes,” she explains. “My grandmother even sold printed fabrics for a while, so those patterns have always been part of my life.” Dolapo moved to England at the age of 17 to take her A-levels and then went on to go to university in Nottingham to study architecture. “While I was studying I made bags, scarves and purses in vibrant African fabrics. I love the idea of a tote bag or clutch introducing a little bit of colour pop to a plain outfit.” She explains…

YOU WILL NEED 1 T-shirt 1 shirt Basic sewing kit CUTTING OUT Step one Cut off the shirt just below the armpits so you that you have as much fabric as possible for the skirt section of your dress.01 Step two Cut off the bottom 5cm (2in) from your T-shirt all the way around.02 PINNING TOGETHER Step one Turn the T-shirt wrong sides (WS) out. Step two Tuck the buttoned-up bottom of the shirt, which you cut off earlier, inside the T-shirt so they are right sides (RS) facing. Step three Pin the side seams of the shirt to the side seams of the T-shirt. Step four Measure to pin the centre of the shirt front and back to the centre of the T-shirt front and back. Step five Pleat…

YOU WILL NEED Main plush fabric: cream or fawn 50x75cm (20x30in) Tail plush fabric: white, 12x12cm (5x5in) Cotton print fabric: 25x25cm (10x10in), for inner ears and feet Plain cotton fabric: pink, 6x6cm (2½x2½in), for nose Plain cotton fabric: orange, 14x14cm (5½x5½in), for carrot Felt: green, 5x4cm (2x15/8in), for carrot top Pair of plastic safety eyes: black, 10mm (3/8in) Wadding or felt scraps: two pieces measuring 10x12cm (4x4¾in) each Polyester toy filling Stranded cotton: black Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Main plush fabric: Smooth Cuddle 3 in Camel Tail plush fabric: Smooth Cuddle 3 in Snow White Cotton print fabric: Paper Lantern, Mori Girls by Dashwood Studio Pink cotton fabric: Sprinkle in Peaches, Cotton + Steel Orange cotton fabric: Kona Cotton Solid in School Bus, Robert Kaufman FINISHED SIZE Approx: 35cm…

BACK WAIST LENGTH From the top of your spine at the base of your neck to your natural waist BUST Around the fullest part of your bust HIPS Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom HEIGHT : Stand against a wall, barefoot, then measure from the top of your head to the floor HIGH BUST/CHEST : Across the back, under your arms and above the bust WAIST : Your natural waistline, around the slimmest part of your waist ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

DRAPE A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities. EASE The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well. EDGESTITCH A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place. FACING This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline. FAT QUARTER A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). FINISHING/NEATENING RAW EDGES This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam,…

“I LIKE TO MAKE MY OWN CLOTHES because of the deep connection we have with the clothes that we make ourselves. This dress has travelled the world with me, been worn over and over, and is now literally falling apart, but I refuse to let go of it! When I wear it I think of sewing in my flat in London (I am from Sydney, but was lucky enough to live in the UK for two and a half years) so it brings back memories of my life there, and the banged up Janome machine I made clothes with. It brings back memories of all the places I have worn it, particularly a trip I took to Thailand and Cambodia. I made the dress out of a synthetic fabric because…