Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 26 i Simply Sewing

With the new school term in full swing, we’re thinking more carefully about the durability of our me-mades. So we’ve been experimenting with different fabrics! Our wipe-clean laminate accessories for the kids are great fun for school. Then there’s a comfy cropped sweatshirt for weekend lounging and hard-wearing denim dress for everyday wear. Plus, we show you how to add handy seamed pockets to your existing garments. Get more from your wardrobe and share your makes using #simplysewingmag…

V FOR VICTORY Forget the flowers and chocolates – the best thing about Valentine’s Day is that it offers us the perfect excuse to sew up a romantic new outfit, like the slinky Trina pattern from Victory Patterns. This elegant design has an oh-so-flattering wrap closure, flowing shape and dramatic wide sleeves and can be made as a kimono-style top or floaty dress. We love its glamorous 1930s-Hollywood vibe. Pdf pattern £9.75, www.backstitch.co.uk CUTTING IT Once we’ve planned a project, we want to skip straight to the fun bit of stitching it all together! That’s why it’s essential to have quality cutting tools in your kit like this pretty and practical rotary cutter for quick, accurate cutting of slippery fabrics and jerseys. £17.95, www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk PATCH IT UP Pins,…

Voilà le Vélo is an independent lingerie atelier set up in 2012 by Francesca Dallamotta. Her fresh, playful and understated collection is designed and made in-house in Liberty cotton and quality fabrics and combines traditional techniques with modern, minimalist cuts. Francesca also has a brand of accessories, Très Chouette, made with Liberty “as a main fabric or an accent.” See more at www.voilalevelo.etsy.com and www.tres chouettelondon.etsy.com…

Pockets are our latest sewing obsession – now we’ve mastered seamed pockets thanks to this issue’s Essential Skills workshop on page 31, we’ve been adding them to all our me-mades and wardrobe favourites! We’re feeling inspired to experiment with different pocket styles, too – and this patch pocket skirt pattern by Donna Wilson is the perfect place to start. Add subtle detail by making the pockets in a matching fabric, or brighten up a plain skirt with a pop of print. Find the pattern at www.donnawilson.com…

YOU WILL NEED Rayon or other light, flowing fabric: 2m (2yds) Medium weight iron-on interfacing: 1m (1yd) Zip: 22cm (8¾in) Matching thread Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED • Painted Roses, Orange. From the Woodland Collection by Rifle Paper Co. Ref: 8024-15. For stockists visit www.cottonand steelfabrics.com NOTE • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Referring to the size chart on page 47, cut the waistband, skirt front, and skirt back pieces from your fabric. Sizes 10 and up may require wider width fabrics or extra fabric to fit the needed width of the skirt. Calculate the fabric required from the table before you buy it. Step two Cut out the waistband lining from iron-on interfacing. JOININGTHE BACKTO THE SIDES Step one Fold the…

YOU WILL NEED Jumper Ribbon: 2m (2 yds) Basic sewing kit NOTE • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. MAKING THE PATTERN PIECES Step one Trace around and cut out the three templates for the top part, sole and leg to make your patterns. These are to make socks for UK shoe size 5-7, so reduce or enlarge the patterns if you need a different size. The jumper is stretchy so you don’t need to add a seam allowance as it is better if the socks are snug.01 Step two The leg pattern piece has a curved top – this is for the front legs. The back leg pieces are cut straight across at the bottom points of the curve, so…

YOU WILL NEED Two fat quarters Lining fabric: 27x38cm (105/8x15in) Zip: contrasting colour, 25cm (10in) Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. FABRICS USED The fabrics used are from Foxglove by Aneela Hoey for Cloud9 Fabrics. Foxglove Stem, Dot. Navy. Ref: C9FG150512. Foxglove Stem, Dot Turquoise. Ref: C9FG150503. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/ cloud9 CUTTINGTHE PIECES Step one Cut one of the fat quarters to use for the bag outer to 27x38cm (105/8x15in).01 Step two Cut the other fat quarter into: Main bow piece: 30x20cm (117/8x77/8in). Bow centre: 8x4cm (31/8x15/8in). MAKING THE BOW KNOT Step one Take the bow centre and fold it in half lengthways with right sides (RS) facing, then stitch together down the length.02 Step two Turn RS out and press. Step three Turn…

YOU WILL NEED Main plush fabric: 50x55cm (20x22in) Contrast plush fabric: 25x35cm (10x14in) Cotton scrap: pink, 4x4cm (15/8x15/8in) Pair of plastic safety eyes: black, 10mm (3/8in) diameter Polyester toy filling Stranded cotton: black FABRIC USED Main plush fabric: Shannon Cuddle Soft Rabbit, Grey. Contrast plush fabric: Smooth Cuddle 3, Ivory. All fabrics from www.plushaddict.co.uk FINISHED SIZE Approx: 32cm (13in) tall. NOTES • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet included with this issue. • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace and cut out all the template pieces. The templates include seam allowances where necessary and the arrows indicate the print direction for marking and cutting out. The notches are used to match pieces when stitching together, so mark…

TUTORIALS & PROJECTS Get easy-to-follow tutorials and downloadable patterns to help you make everything from bags and cushions, to clothes to quilts. PRODUCTS & TOOLS Find heaps of essential sewing and quilting tools, fabrics and accessories in the Sewing Quarter online shop. Just click and buy! TECHNIQUES & KNOW - HOW Learn from the experts with top tips, technical know-how and sewing guides put together by leading designers and sewists.…

LEARN THE TECHNIQUE Hand quilting is simply a short running stitch that goes through all three layers of the quilt top, wadding and back. It takes longer but gives a softer feel than machine quilting, although it isn’t about speed, it’s about the joy of the process! WHAT TOOLS TO USE? Needles Betweens, or quilting needles, are short but strong so you can keep control over the length of your stitches and have a small enough eye to go through the fabric. A size 10 is the most common. Thread Quilting thread is stronger than ordinary cotton thread so won’t break as easily. It's often pre-coated with wax to give it strength and stop it tangling. Quilting Hoop You will get a more even tension with your stitches if you…

Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

DRAPE A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities. EASE The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well. EDGESTITCH A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place. FACING This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline. FAT QUARTER A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). FINISHING/NEATENING RAW EDGES This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam,…

Wow, what a month. There’s so much going on here at Simply Sewing HQ, I don’t think I can give it all credit in this tiny column! From the launch of the new Sewing Quarter TV channel (see p82 for more info), to our interview with Alison Smith MBE (p58), we’ve been rubbing shoulders with lots of sewing stars! We’ve also been chatting to Matt Chapple and other toy-makers about their businesses (p78). It’s been all work and lots of play. Enjoy! PS: BONUS GIFT WORTH £40 when you subscribe (see p38)…

1-8 FEBRUARY Ken Russell’s Teddy Girls & Boys. The North Wall Arts Centre, Oxford. Photos of London’s teddy girls and boys taken in the 1950s by film director Ken Russell. www.thenorthwall.com 2-4 FEBRUARY Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts. EventCity, Manchester. Find inspiration and supplies and learn new skills. www.ichfevents.co.uk 4 FEBRUARY 2017-1 JANUARY 2018 Lace in Fashion. Fashion Museum Bath. A look at lace through the ages, from historic gowns to top designer frocks, including a dress from the James Bond film, Spectre. www.fashionmuseum.co.uk 24-26 FEBRUARY Spring Quilt Festival. Great Yorkshire Showground, Harrogate. Stock up on patchwork and quilting supplies, admire quilts on display and learn new techniques at the workshops. www.grosvenorshows.co.uk…

• Use a vinyl or roller foot in your machine to help ease the fabric through as you stitch. You can put a little masking tape under your ordinary foot instead to help it slide, but make sure you cut it to fit exactly so the needle doesn’t catch. • Laminate will melt if you press it on the right side so either press it on the wrong side or place a cotton cloth over it and then press. Always test this first though. • You may need to adjust the tension and stitch size to suit. • Use a jeans needle in a size 16/100 or 18/110 or experiment to choose one. • Pins will mark your fabric and they’re tricky to put in, so it’s best to use…

YOU WILL NEED Denim jeans Metallic faux leather: bronze and rose gold Cushion pad: 30x30cm (12x12in) Basic sewing kit NOTE • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one From your jeans, cut out the following: Cushion front: four strips 10.5x33cm (4¼x13¼in). Cushion back: two pieces 20x33cm (8x13¼in). Step two Trace around the three heart templates and cut them out to use as pattern pieces. Step three Each heart has two pieces, one for each side. To cut one heart, draw around the template on the wrong side (WS) of your faux leather, then flip the template over to draw around it. Cut them out and you’ll have a pair of mirror…

“What I love about making toys is that you see the enjoyment of them being used.” Sewing a toy with a particular child in mind is a pretty special thing. Get it right, and you’ll be making a friend that goes with them everywhere, a costume to set their imagination free, a companion for nights when the dark is scary, a confidante and a partner in all kinds of mischief. Magic! But there are a few things to bear in mind before you get the fabric and threads out – a home-sewn toy needs more than just love to make it a suitable gift for a little one to treasure. We speak to some expert toy makers to find out how to make sure your handmade toys meet safety standards…

WHAT ARE YOU MOST LOOKING FORWARD TO SHOWING VIEWERS? “My passion has always been for dressmaking. It’s such an empowering skill as you get to make the clothes you want to wear and that fit you to perfection. Dressmaking gives you the opportunity to be confident and comfortable in your clothes as well as your own skin. But to be honest, I want to inspire everyone to pick up a needle and thread and get sewing.” HOW ARE YOU FINDING LIVE TV? “Having been a contestant on the Great British Sewing Bee, I quickly learned to forget about the cameras as you really needed to concentrate on the task in hand. I do still get a little nervous – little butterflies in my tummy before we go on air –…

MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. TAILOR’S CHALKSX Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches.…

UNIVERSAL A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too. BALL POINT This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. JEANS A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims. SHARPS With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes. LEATHER This needle’s wedge-shaped cutting point is used to work strong seams on non-woven fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl. STRETCH Designed for sewing two-way stretch knits such as lycra and silk jersey. It prevents skipped stitches on fine knit fabrics. QUILTING This will pierce multiple layers whilst…

ALISON SMITH Alison Smith launched School of Sewing in 1992 and has since run a fabric shop, produced her own pattern range, published four sewing books and received an MBE for services to sewing and corsetry. She shares her future plans on page 58. KIRSTY HARTLEY Designer and craft author Kirsty Hartley designs fabric prints and playful childrenswear and accessories in the UK, and is the founder of popular children’s clothing label, Wild Things. Kirsty designed The Freja Dress on page 34. MATT CHAPPLE Matt Chapple won the Great British Sewing Bee in 2015 and has since launched a blog and sewing kit range called Sew What’s New with his wife Gemma. His debut sewing book is out now. He offers his top tips for making toys on page 78.…

PRINT & PATTERN NATURE Bowie Style (£19.99, Laurence King) The latest book based on the Print & Pattern blog celebrates beautiful surface design, covering everything from giftwrap and stationery to fabrics, wallpaper and ceramics. An inspiring reference book for designers and crafters alike. www.laurenceking.com LOTTA JANSDOTTER COLLECTION COLORING BOOK Lotta Jansdotter (£11.99, C&T Publishing) Try the colouring-in trend Scandi-style with Lotta Jansdotter’s modern designs, printed single-sided so you can frame your finished masterpiece. www.searchpress.com TECHNICAL DRAWING FOR FASHION Basia Szkutnicka (£30, Laurence King) Sketch your dressmaking ideas like a pro with this invaluable book, which shows you how to create a technical fashion drawing using a step-by-step method, as well as featuring over 600 technical drawings of garment types. www.laurenceking.com THE MAKER’S ATELIER Frances Tobin (£30, Quadrille) The first book…

DOLL FACE Go quirky with cute-as-a-button hand- drawn face motifs. Set of three approx £8, www.zouzoudesign.etsy.com LIBERTY LOVELY Pretty up your me-mades with Liberty florals, available in four sizes. Sets of six or 10 from £6, www. pinkgreen.etsy.com PANSY POP These hand-drawn pansy buttons are perfect for spring sewing. Set of four £4, www.drawnby  rhiannon.etsy.com SET SAIL Mix and match maritime motifs for a nautical-but-nice look. Set of four approx £8, www. dawanda.com BLUE BLOOMS Finish off a swishy frock with these vintage-look stripes and florals. Set of six £3.99, www.oak  roomshop.co.uk…

Cotton is one of the most versatile fabrics you can have in your stash – from home accessories to dressmaking projects, cotton prints can do them all! At Prinfab’s facility in Kent, UK, cotton fabric is printed to order – you can upload your own artwork, or choose from a selection. This month’s winner will receive five prints from the Prinfab shop (that’s 3 metres of each!): Cell Structure by Markova; Retro This and That by Orangeberry; They Dreamed of Gentle Ocean Waves by Markova; Art Deco Fans by Orangeberry; and Bright Abstract Flowers by Nataliia Toporovska. Enter at www.simplysewing mag.com, and find Prinfab at www.prinfab.com See www.simplysewingmag.com  to enter today! (UK only, see competition rules on p6.)…

COIN PURSE YOU WILL NEED 1 fat quarter I ron-on fleece (or wadding): 32x26cm (12½x10¼in) Zip: 14cm (5½in) Ribbon: small scrap Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED The fabric used is Frou Frou Fleuri, C Colour 6. Ref: FFF2800-6. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/#findstockist NOTES • Use a 2cm (¾in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one From the fat quarter cut out two pieces 16x26cm (63/8x10¼in) each for the purse outer and purse lining. Step two From the fleece fabric cut out two pieces 16x26cm (63/8x10¼in) each for the outer and lining. INSERTINGTHE ZIP Step one Press one of the pieces of fleece onto the wrong side (WS) of one of the pieces of fabric for the purse outer. Repeat with the other piece of fabric for the lining and fleece. If…

YOU WILL NEED Tweed jacket Basic sewing kit Designer Portia says: “Tweed is a British classic. While the fabric itself may be timeless, jacket shapes will come in and out of favour. Here’s how you can turn something boxy, shapeless and out of style into something beautifully fitted, feminine and fashion forward.” UNPICKING THE JACKET Step one Begin by unpicking the jacket lining at the hem. Deconstructing a garment follows the construction steps in reverse. In most cases the hem of the lining will have been the final step to be sewn, so that is where we start. Once the hem has been unpicked, it will allow you to turn the whole thing inside out and reveal the ‘guts’ of the jacket.01 Step two With the jacket turned inside out,…

YOU WILL NEED Sweatshirt material: 140cm (55in) width x130cm (51in), for all sizes Jersey ribbing: 70cm (27½in) width x 50cm (20in) Iron-on hemming tape: see instructions for details Matching thread for sweatshirt material and jersey ribbing Basic sewing kit NOTE • You will find the pattern piece on the pull-out pattern sheet. • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Choose your size by referring to the size chart then cut out the pattern piece. The same piece is used for both the front and back of the sweatshirt. Step two The front of the sweatshirt is cut as two pieces and following the lower neckline curve. The back piece doesn’t need the central seam allowance and is cut as one piece following the…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 45x112cm (18x44in ) Contrast fabric: 55x112cm (22x44in ) Lining fabric: 90x112cm (35x44in) Iron-on interfacing: 90x90cm (35x35in) Iron-on wadding: 30x90cm (12x35in) Thin foam: 80x72cm (31x28in) 1 zip: navy, 13cm (5¼in) 2 zips: navy, 18cm (7in) 2 rectangle rings: silver, 2.5cm (1in) Bag slider: silver, 2.5cm (1in) Medium twist lock: silver Scraps of ribbon: for the zip pulls Double-sided tape Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Main fabric: Solid Smooth Denim, Afternoon Sail. Ref: DEN-S-2003. From the Denim Studio collection by Art Gallery Fabrics. Contrast fabric: Overshot Haze. Ref: OBR-49802. From the Observer collection by April Rhodes for Art Gallery Fabrics. Lining fabric: Mesh With Me Worn. Ref: OBR-49807. From the Observer collection by April Rhodes for Art Gallery Fabrics. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/agf NOTES • You will…

IT’S ALL IN THE NAME Sewing Quarter is the UK’s first shopping channel dedicated to sewing and quilting, launching on Freeview channel 78 this January! It’s brought to you by the publishers of all your favourite market-leading craft magazines such as Simply Sewing, Love Patchwork and Quilting, and Mollie Makes - and it’s run by a dedicated team who are as passionate about sewing and quilting as you are. Presenters Natasha McCarty and John Scott will be joined in the studio by lots of top UK designers (some you might recognise from the magazines) where they’ll be bringing you top tips, key techniques and exciting new sewing projects, designed exclusively for the channel, for you to make at home. From clothes and quilts, to bags and toys, the Sewing Quarter…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: see instructions Backing fabric: see instructions 4oz wadding: see instructions Oddments of contrast fabrics to make the features and ears Bondaweb: see instructions A variety of ribbons, in different colours and widths Something large and circular to draw around, we used a bin lid Water erasable fabric pen Basic sewing kit NOTE You will find the templates needed to make this project on the pullout pattern sheet provided. CUTTINGOUT Step one Draw around a clean dustbin lid or other large circle onto the back of the main fabric. Step two Draw a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance all the way around this circle. Step three Cut out the circle along the outer line. Step four Pin the circle onto the backing fabric and cut around it.…

BACK WAIST LENGTH From the top of your spine at the base of your neck to your natural waist BUST Around the fullest part of your bust HIPS Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom HEIGHT Stand against a wall, barefoot, then measure from the top of your head to the floor HIGH BUST/CHEST Across the back, under your arms and above the bust WAIST Your natural waistline, around the slimmest part of your waist ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope…

IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

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