Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 12 i Simply Sewing

You might find this hard to believe, but it’s been less than a year since I made my first dress - an Anna Dress by independent pattern label By Hand London. Elisalex and Victoria (pictured here with me at the Knitting & Stitching Show) persuaded me to give the pattern a go, so I did. And I’ve been hooked ever since! That’s why I’m so stoked to have been able to collaborate with co-founder Charlotte Hintzen (and the aforementioned beauts) to bring you a stunning circle-skirt dress as our latest sew along. Turn to page 36 and prepare to fall in love, ladies.…

Katie Dixon probably wouldn’t mind being called a shady lady. After all, her business, Little Peg, is all about handmade and bespoke lampshades. “It was born out of frustration trying to find the perfect shade for my own newly redecorated lounge,” she says. “[Shades] are often very chintzy, plain or just outdated and [I] thought I would have a go at making one myself. I must have read nearly every book!” After friends and family began to clamor for her homemade shades, Katie decided to sell them – and named the business after her daughter, Peggy. “I have always been creative, especially with clothes and interior design, and I like to put my own spin on things,” says Katie. “I love Liberty and William Morris prints, as well as eclectic…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 35x60cm (14x24in) Contrast fabric: 25x20cm (10x8in) Kite tail fabric: 20x112cm (8x44in) Heavy weight interfacing: 40x30cm (16x12in) Ribbon: 5mmx1metre, (¼x40in) Fabric tape measure: 150cm (60in) Felt: for bows, see instructions for details Wooden pegs Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED The fabrics used are from Sweet Autumn Day by Little Cube for Cloud9. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/ cloud9. Main fabric: Forest Friends, red. Ref: C9SAD141406; Contrast fabric: Forest Friends, pink. Ref: C9SAD141405; Tail fabric: Cotton Solids, turquoise. Ref: CCPF530. NOTES Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. You will find the template needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. CUTTINGTHE FABRIC Step one Trace the kite shape from the pull-out pattern sheet. To make the individual kite shapes, trace each of the…

There are few things as exciting as seeing a new collection for the first time, but how do those designs come together? As designers devise their lines for spring/summer 2016, we delve into what caught their imaginations, and how they developed the initial ideas into the beautiful garments and fabrics set to wow us next season. DAYDREAM BELIEVER Edinburgh-based designer Emily Millichip (www.emilymillichip.com) is becoming known for her bold, blocky shapes and love of colour. Most of her ideas start off in daydreams. “Firstly, I like to imagine a fabulous scenario,” she says. “Recently, this has centred around the tropics, although I did have quite a love affair with imaginary trailer parks and time travel. Then I think of the amazing outfits needed for such adventures. If you’re on Mars,…

YOU WILL NEED For a set of ten lights: Cotton fabric: five pieces, 21x30cm (8½x 12in) each 10 paper fasteners: white 1 piece of polystyrene Glue 10 buttons Self–adhesive lampshade PVC: 20x60cm (8x24in) 10 LED fairy lights Leather hole punch Step one You will need to attach your buttons to the paper fasteners in advance of constructing the mini shades, to allow time for the glue to fix. Begin by pushing the ten paper fasteners into the polystyrene – this holds them steady while you apply the glue. Add glue to the head of each fastener, then place a button on top and press down firmly to secure. Repeat this until all ten fasteners have buttons.01 Step two Cut the self-adhesive lampshade PVC into ten strips, each measuring 20x6cm (8x23/8in).…

Many sewists (us included!) are guilty of squirrelling away fabric scraps 'just in case'. Now, though, it's time to delve into that long-forgotten stash, as we've found the perfect project for all those unloved offcuts. English paper piecing is a hand-stitching technique that involves wrapping fabric around paper shapes, usually hexagons. Once these fabric shapes have been hand-stitched together, the paper is removed, resulting a beautifully neat patchworked piece. Overleaf, we'll show you how to get started and make this paper-pieced cushion. Set aside an afternoon, sit down with a cuppa and your favourite music, and indulge in a spot of relaxing hand-sewing. Ahh, bliss. ENGLISH PAPER PIECING (EPP) is a traditional quilting technique that originated in England in the 1700s. It was the original make do and mend of…

BY HAND LONDON By Hand London is an independent pattern label run by Charlotte, Elisalex and Victoria, a trio of 20-somethings based in London. They create sewing patterns inspired by the stylish ladies they admire. Join in their dress sew along on page 36. LEAH DUNCAN Leah Duncan launched her hand-drawn fabric and homewares line on Etsy in 2008 and has gone on to work with international retailers and fabric companies. Read about the inspiration behind her designs in our feature on page 44. MALKA DUBRAWSKY Fine arts graduate Malka was first drawn to quilting as a way of translating her drawings to fabric. She now designs her own fabrics and has published two quilting books. She shares her new design aesthetic with us on page 64. FRANCES TOBIN Frances…

THE MOOD GUIDE TO FABRIC AND FASHION (ST&C, £16.99) Learn all there is to know about choosing and using fabric from the knowledgable team behind Project Runway’s favourite fabric store, NY’s Mood Fabrics.www.abramsandchronicle.co.uk PATTERNITY (Conran, £30) Discover Patternity’s uniquely curated guide to seeing pattern in unexpected places, from fashion to the natural world, to open your mind and inspire your sewing. www.patternity.org QUILT LOCAL Heather Jones (ST&C, £16.99) This book has 40 quilt projects to make inspired by everyday objects and landscapes close to home, plus tutorials in colour theory and a peek at Heather’s sketchbook pages. www.abramsandchronicle.co.uk HOW TO PRINT FABRIC Zeena Shah (David & Charles, £14.99) Fabric-printing queen Zeena Shah explains how to use simple techniques and everything from elastic bands to stencils to decorate your fabric, alongside…

PADDED STOOL COVERS Drawing, painting, hosting imaginary tea parties... the playroom table is where all the fun happens, so a comfy seat is a must! These fabric stool covers are simple to sew and can be personalised using embroidery or appliqué. GEOMETRIC BUNTING Brighten up the playroom with bunting made from geometric shapes. Your child will have fun learning the names of the shapes, and you’ll love how quick and easy they are to make! DRAW-CORD PLAYMAT Tidying up after playtime will be a doddle with this clever draw-cord playmat. When you pull its cord (and neatly tuck it away in the little button-up pocket) the playmat transforms into a handy toy storage bag, which can be hung up out of the way or taken with you. STACKING RINGS We’ve…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 125x112cm (49x44in) Lining fabric: 110x112cm (43x44in) Trim fabric: 55x112cm (22x44in) Iron-on interfacing: 14x49cm (5½x193/8in) Cord lock Cord: strong nylon 3mm (1/››in) cord Press fastener• Button Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED The fabrics used are from Sweet Autumn Day by Little Cube for Cloud9. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/ cloud9. Main fabric: Forest Friends, red. Ref: C9SAD141406; Lining fabric: Apple and Pear, blue. Ref: C9SAD141202; Trim fabric: Cotton Solids, turquoise. Ref: CCPF530. NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance throughout. CUTTINGTHE FABRIC Step one Stick several sheets of newspaper together to make your paper pattern. Place them on a flat surface and pin a length of string to the centre point, then tie the other end to a pencil. The string needs to reach from the…

YOU WILL NEED 1 fat quarter (we used Floral from the Retro Orchard collection by Wendy Kendall, available from Bias or ribbon: 12cm (4¾in) 2oz wadding Basic sewing kit TEMPLATES You will find the template needed to make this project on page 93. NOTES Cut out your fabric and stitch using a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. Designer Jennie says: “If, like me, you have your scissors and cutters scattered around the house, this scissor tidy, with three compartments, is just the thing. Keep it next to your sewing machine for easy snipping!” Step one Trace around the template then use it to cut one piece of wadding and two pieces of fabric, allowing a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance all the way around. Step two Pin the fabric pieces right…

YOU WILL NEED Cotton fabric: grey print scraps for hexagons, see instructions Linen fabric: grey for cushion back and front, 50x90cm (20x35in) Paper: for hexagon shapes Zip: grey, 35cm (14in) Cushion pad: 40x40cm (16x16in) Matching sewing thread Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED We used a selection of fabric from Modern Background Paper by Zen Chic for Moda fabrics. Find more info at www.modafabric.co.uk. NOTES • You will find the hexagon template on page 93. • Use the instructions on page 86 to make your hexagons. CUTTING THE TEMPLATES AND FABRIC Step one Trace the two hexagon templates from page 93. The larger one is for the fabric and the smaller one is for the paper templates. Step two Plan which fabric you are going to use for your patchwork then…

Cushion pads are widely available either online or in your local craft shop. There are various shapes available, but one of the most popular is the standard square cushion pad. Cushion pads are filled with either a synthetic or feather filling, and tend to have a different feel to them. Feather filled pads have a more luxurious feel and are squashier to touch, while synthetic cushions tend to remain plump as they will ‘spring’ back into shape. They’re also better for those with allergies. Here’s a list of standard cushion pad sizes. Keep a note of them to help with future projects… STANDARD CUSHION PAD SIZES…

Step one Depending on the thickness of your fabric, you may need the help of a lightbox to help illuminate the design through the fabric. Or you can use a window and trace against it. Either way, tape the design securely in place. Step two Place your fabric in a ring frame with the right side of the fabric face down. Now turn the frame over so the right side of the fabric is face up and place the frame over the design so that it sits flush with the flat surface. Using a ring frame or ‘hoop’ helps to keep the fabric taut. Step three Check the fabric is square to the design and start to trace the design using a light blue coloured pencil or water soluble pen.…

FIRE STARTER It may be winter in the UK, but in sunny Oz spring and summer is in full bloom. We couldn’t help but fall in love with the spring-summer collection from Kindling, the Aussie brand with an ethical heart. The super-flattering Run to the River skirt is just one item from a collection that includes tops, dresses, trousers and jumpsuits – red hot to wear all year round. From £46. www.kindling.com.au BUTTON UP A button-up skirt is our go-to garment whatever the time of year, so Pauline Alice’s new Rosari skirt is a must-sew. Inspired by 1970s style, it can be made as an on-trend midi or a classic mini skirt. Approx £6. www.paulinealicepatterns.com DENIM DREAM Forget stiff, difficult-to-sew denim – this classic fabric has been reinvented by…

PEG IT UP Wooden peg boards help display your quirkiest finds – this board comes in white, grey or blue. From £30. www.roseandgrey.co.uk STICK IT Get pinning with this heart-shaped board made from eco-friendly Spanish cork. Approx £5 each at www.corklandshop. etsy.com FLOWER FANCY Keep your to-do lists tidy with Paperchase’s magnetic flower print clipboard. A snip at £6 each from www.paper  chase.co.uk IN THE FRAME Try a touch of shabby chic with this vintage-style turquoise magnetic board. £60. www.the  otherduckling.co.uk RAINBOW BRIGHT Add some sunshine to any craft room with this super-bright magnetic board. £32. www. magneticnotice  boardco.co.uk…

YOU WILL NEED Vintage scarf or fabric scrap: 15x80cm (6x32in) Watch face Basic sewing kit MAKING THE WATCH STRAP Step one Cut a 15x80cm (6x32in) rectangle from your fabric scrap or scarf. Step two Fold it in half lengthways with right sides (RS) together. Pin along the long edge. Step three Stitch together down the length and along one short end using a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. Turn RS out and press. Step four Fold under the raw ends of the short edge by 1cm (3/8in) and press. Slip stitch closed by hand to finish your fabric strap. Step five Thread the strap through the watch face and tie it onto your wrist to complete. This project was designed by Harriet de Winton, a stylist and illustrator based in Bristol.…

Neutral knits are a wardrobe staple, but sometimes we just can’t resist getting the sewing kit out and adding our own design details! This simple project is the perfect introduction to split stitch for those new to the technique. Start by reading our split stitch tutorial on page 49, then turn to the leaf template on page 93 to start stitching. This design would look great sewn onto the neckline of a plain tee, or you could scale it down and stitch it onto the collar of a crisp white shirt. Match the thread colour to your accessories for a pulled-together look!…

YOU WILL NEED Pair of old denim jeans, larger sized straight leg if possible Wadding: 10x34cm (4x13½in) Velcro hook and loop tape: black, 2cmx15cm (¾x6in) Matching sewing thread Sand, uncooked rice, or crushed walnut shells (small bag) Sewing machine (with a topstitch or size 16 needle) Air or water erasable pen/white dressmakers pencil Basic sewing kit NOTES Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. Designer Jessica says: “Denim was originally a work cloth, so it seems apt to upcycle an old pair of jeans into a sewing table tidy for your workspace (or the dining room in my case!). This is easy to make, hard wearing and rolls up neatly to store away ready for its next use. You could embellish yours or keep it sleek and simple…

YOU WILL NEED Cotton fabric: red, 52x85cm (21x34in) Cotton fabric: patterned, 15x21cm (6x9in) Felt: yellow, 16x14cm (6½x5½in) Felt: beige, 16x28cm (6½x11in) Bondaweb: 15x21cm (6x9in) Embroidery thread: in coordinating colours Cushion pad: 24x50cm (9½x19¾in) Basic sewing kit NOTES The finished cushion measures 24x50cm (9½inx19¾in). Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. TEMPLATES You will find the tree template needed to make this project on page 93. Designer and stitcher Beth says: “I made this retro-style pillow using a striking red fabric with a stylised yet simple tree motif. You could, as I have, use solid fabric for the trunk and branches and patterned fabric for the leaves, or use contrasting solids for a unique look.” CUTTING OUT From the red cotton: Cut one: 26x52cm (10¼x20in) Cut two: 26x32cm (10¼x125/8in)…

YOU WILL NEED Grey fabric: 50x75cm (20x30in) White fabric: 25x25cm (10x10in) Black fabric: 22x22cm (9x9in) Two safety eyes: black, 12mm (½in) Polyester toy filling Embroidery thread: black Water erasable pen/pencil FABRICS USED Grey: Smooth Cuddle 3 in Ash White: Smooth Cuddle 3 in Snow White Black: Smooth Cuddle 3 in Black All fabrics from Plush Addict (www.plushaddict.co.uk). MEASUREMENTS The finished raccoon measures approx 33cm (13in) from toe to tip of ear. NOTES You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet. Use a seam allowance of 5mm (¼in), unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace and cut out all the pattern pieces. Seam allowances are included and the arrows indicate the direction of the pile. The notches are used to match pieces when stitching together so mark…

SEAM RIPPER You’ll find this odd-looking tool invaluable for cutting through seams and removing stitches. The hook slips under the stitches while the sharp blade at the back cuts the thread. Replace it if it’s getting blunt – they’re cheap. MARKING TOOLS Tailor’s chalk and water- or air-erasable pens and pencils make pinning and tacking much easier as you can see where you’re meant to be sewing. They come in different colours to contrast with your fabric. ROTARY CUTTER If you want to get into patchwork or dressmaking, these make short work of cutting out a lot of fabric and pattern pieces. Always cut away from yourself as they are very sharp. You’ll need a cutting mat and special ruler to use these. PINS AND NEEDLES Indispensable stainless steel pins…

You’ll need stranded embroidery cotton and a sharp or tapestry needle, depending on the fabric you use. See below for a guide for transferring a design – one of the simplest ways is to trace it directly on to your fabric. We use a pale blue coloured pencil – very forgiving against a light-coloured fabric if any lines remain once the design is complete. BACKSTITCH Use backstitch for a neat outline. Bring the needle up and take it back over the fabric, as shown. Push the needle back up in front of where you started, making sure you keep all the stitches neat and even. STEM STITCH With stem stitch, work from left to right, in regular small stitches along the line of the design. The thread always emerges on…

Thank you for making these projects from Simply Sewing. The copyright for these templates belongs to the designer of the project. They work hard to create projects for you to enjoy, so please don’t re-sell or distribute their work without permission. Please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party website, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Copyright law protects creative work and unauthorised copying is illegal. We appreciate your help.…

“MY FAVOURITE STYLE TO WEAR (and make) is a stretch pencil skirt. I have been refining the shape over the years and The Maker’s Atelier Ultimate Pencil Skirt pattern is the result. My making always starts with finding great fabric. I especially like stretch fabrics with some Lycra or elastane content. The way these fabrics can move with the body yet retain their shape makes them really easy and comfortable to wear. As long as a fabric can stretch from 20cm to 25cm and spring back to 20cm, then it’s suitable for this skirt. I love that this skirt only takes 80cm of fabric and I can make it in an afternoon. I’ve realised that the stretch pencil skirt has become my wardrobe staple; I have 18 of them! Some…