Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 23 i Simply Sewing

I’m always really humbled by how lovely sewists are and how great they are at working together. From The Fold Line launching Tribe (p9), a new pattern company allowing members to become designers, to the lovely bunch of winners I met at Singer’s sewing session with Patrick Grant (p13). And yes, before you ask, he’s utterly charming in real life too. So, to celebrate our flourishing community we’ve added sewing categories to our British Craft Awards (p8). Vote today! PS: BONUS FABRIC WORTH £35 when you subscribe (see p32)…

FASHION IN FILM Christopher Laverty (Laurence King, £30) Costume and fashion writer Christopher celebrates the contributions of fashion designers to cinema through some of the most iconic film costumes, with stunning film stills, fashion photography and stylish sketches. www.laurenceking.com MODERN FOLK EMBROIDERY Nancy Nicholson (David & Charles, £14.99) Fill your home with colourful folk art with this Scandi-inspired book. To get a copy for £9.99 with free UK postage, call 01206 255777 with code IM1916 (offer ends 01/01/17). www.sewandso.co.uk SEWING ROOM ACCESSORIES Debbie Shore (Search Press, £7.99) Give your sewing room a handmade touch and organise your stash with 15 projects from Debbie Shore, including practical storage solutions and sewing room essentials like a pincushion and seam press. www.searchpress.co.uk BOHO EMBROIDERY Nichole Vogelsinger (Lucky Spool Media, £17.99) This colourful book…

PSST: Turn to page 37 for fabric and style inspiration, and don’t forget to share your finished Katie Dress with us using #simplysewingmag SWEETHEART NECKLINE A sweetheart neckline gives the dress a feminine look. PRINCESS SEAMS The princess seams on the bodice create a fitted shape. TWO SLEEVE LENGTHS Choose from three-quarter or self-lined short sleeve styles. EASY-TO-WEAR LENGTH The semi-fitted knee-length skirt is comfortable and flattering. We relish the many opportunities for getting dressed up that party season brings – mainly because it gives us a chance to show off our sewing skills with a fabulous handmade dress! And luckily, we’ve already found our ultimate party frock: Cotton + Chalk’s The Katie Dress. The Katie Dress ticks all our perfect-party-dress boxes with its easy-to-wear, sophisticated style. This flattering frock…

PSST: You can fill your wardrobe with quick-to-sew jersey dresses and tees using this nifty measuring technique! YOU WILL NEED Knit fabric for top dress: to fit pattern, see instructions Knit fabric for under dress: to fit pattern, see instructions Fusible hem tape – see instructions for details Your favourite sleeveless T-shirt Pattern paper Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED The fabrics used are from Skopelos by Katarina Roccella for Art Gallery Fabrics. For stockists visit www.hantex.co.uk/agf Top dress: Chora Winds. Ref: K-44609. Under dress: Greeka Skouro. Ref: K-34608. DRAWINGTHE BODICE PATTERNS Step one Take a sleeveless T-shirt that fits you well and fold it in half lengthways. Step two Place the folded edge on one of the straight edges of your pattern paper. If your T-shirt has a shoulder measurement…

PSST: Make yours in a thick knit fabric like scuba or ponte roma to create a boxy shape, or try lighter stretch fabrics for a less structured look. YOU WILL NEED Heavyweight knit fabric: 150cm (60in) width x 150cm (60in) Matching thread Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED We used a check boiled wool knit in grey which you can buy online from www.fabricgodmother.co.uk NOTES • Use a 1.5cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. Designer Portia says: “Take the chill off in style with this super quick and simple boxy sweater made from four rectangles of knit fabric.” MEASURING UP Step one You will need to take your bust, hip and shoulder to wrist measurements and write them down. Step two Add 7-10cm (3-4in) to your bust measurement (depending on…

YOU WILL NEED Printed fabric A: 40x40cm (16x16in) Printed fabric B: 30x28cm (12x11in) Printed fabric C: 12x9cm (5x3½in) Grey felt (for antlers): 23x31cm (9x12½in) Black fabric scrap: 8x6cm (3x2½in) Lining fabric: 30x30cm (2x12in) Pair of plastic safety eyes: black, 12mm (½in) dimater Polyester toy filling Embroidery hoop: 15cm (6in) Stranded cotton PVA glue Water erasable pen/pencil Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Fabric A: Sippy Straws, Strawberry by Michael Miller. Fabric B: Spot, Silver by Kaffe Fassett. Fabric C: Twist, Rose by Dashwood Studio. NOTES You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet. Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace and cut out all the template pieces. The templates include seam allowances, and the arrows indicate the pile or print direction.…

ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting in the right places. Make…

UNIVERSAL A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too. BALL POINT This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. JEANS A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims. SHARPS With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes. LEATHER This needle’s wedge-shaped cutting point is used to work strong seams on non-woven fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl. STRETCH Designed for sewing two-way stretch knits such as lycra and silk jersey. It prevents skipped stitches on fine knit fabrics. QUILTING This will pierce multiple layers whilst…

ANNA GRAHAM Anna Graham is the designer, blogger, author and sewist behind www.noodle-head.com. With a BA in art, she loves discovering new techniques and creating new sewing patterns and projects. Take a peek at her enviable sewing space on page 62. DEBBIE HUMPHREYS Frustrated by the lack of well- tting coats for her whippet Bruno in the shops, Debbie decided to design her own, which led to selling her dog coat designs at www.redhoundfordogs.com. She shares her reversible dog coat project on page 58. PORTIA LAWRIE Essex-based Portia is a regular Simply Sewing contributor and the gal behind www.makery.uk, where she blogs about sewing and DIY and hosts annual sewing challenge The Refashioners, now in its fourth year. She shares how to get the best cost-per-sew from your patterns on…

17 19 NOVEMBER Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts Show at Christmas. Excel, London. Find all you need to craft your way to the perfect Christmas.www.stitchandhobby.co.uk 26 NOVEMBER & 3, 10 & 11 DECEMBER Made in Bristol Gift Fair. Colston Hall, Bristol. Stock up on presents for friends and family by talented local designers at this annual fair.www.colstonhall.org 3 4 DECEMBER Crafty Fox Christmas Market. Brixton, London. Find unique handmade Christmas gifts and support local designer-makers at one of several festive Crafty Fox markets.www.craftyfoxmarket.co.uk UNTIL 5 NOVEMBER 2017 Mary Quant: Fashion Icon. Manchester Art Gallery. Get inspired by this display of Mary Quant’s iconic mini dresses from the swinging 1960s. www.manchesterartgallery.org…

YOU WILL NEED Main cotton print fabric: 40x35cm (16x14in), for the outer bag Contrast cotton print fabric: 40x35cm (16x14in), for the lining Woven, iron on interfacing: 40x60cm (16x24in) Medium gauge chain: 1m (1¼yds) 2 lobster swivel clips: 37x17mm Magnetic clasp Jewellery or needle nose pliers Basic sewing kit NOTES Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. You will find the template for this project on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace around the bag side template and cut it out. Step two From the main fabric cut: Outer body, 35x25cm (13¾x97/8in). Outer sides, two pieces using the pattern. Chain tabs strip, 4x13cm (2x5¼in). Step three From the contrast fabric cut: Lining body, 35x25cm (13¾x97/8in). Lining sides, two pieces using the pattern.…

YOU WILL NEED 1 T-shirt Lace collar Basic sewing kit Designer Jennie says: “What better way is there to spend an autumn evening than by doing a bit of hand sewing? Using a ready-made lace collar (found on eBay) makes this T-shirt transformation super quick and easy!“ PINNING THE COLLAR IN PLACE Step one Fold your T-shirt in half lengthways to find the centre point of the back neckline and front neckline and mark both of these positions with pins. Step two Fold the lace collar in half widthways to find the centre point and mark this with a pin as this will be used for positioning. Step three Match the centre point of the collar to the centre point at the back of T-shirt and pin together.01 Step four…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 50x90cm (20x35in) Lining fabric: 25x150cm (10x60in) Webbing: 60-100cm (24-39in) – measure your dog’s tummy, and add 10cm (4in) for overlap Bias binding: 180-250cm (71-98in) Basic sewing kit NOTES Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance throughout unless stated. You will find the pattern needed on the pull-out pattern sheet. SIZING Small: Neck 38cms (15in). Chest 38-41cm (15-16in). Length from neck to top of tail 33cm (13in). Medium: Neck 42cm (16½in). Chest 46-50cm (18-20in). Length from neck to top of tail 40cm (15½in). CUTTING OUT Step one Measure your dog then trace around and cut out the pattern to the required size (As a guide: ‘Small’ should fit a dog the size of a Border terrier and ‘Medium’ should fit a larger Boston terrier.) Step two Fold…

This time of year has us dreaming of cosy quilts sewn up in our favourite fabrics. Often, though, we find ourselves doing too much dreaming and not enough sewing thanks to the time-consuming fabric-cutting process, which is why our craft room is filled with helpful tools like the AccuQuilt GO! Fabric Cutter. Making a beautiful quilt starts with accurate cutting, and the AccuQuilt can precisely cut up to six layers of cotton fabric at a time – leaving you with more time to get your quilt on! SEARCH FOR THE ACCUQUILT NOW USING 360041…

YOU WILL NEED Felt: various colours to fit the bauble templates Grey felt scrap: for the crown bauble tops Glitter fabric: small scrap Ribbon: black, 3mm (1/8in) width x 20cm (8in) Polyester fibrefill Air erasable pen Basic sewing kit NOTE You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace around your chosen bauble template and cut it out. There are three different sizes and shapes of bauble crowns, so choose the one you prefer and trace around that, too. Step two Use the template to cut out your felt pieces and glitter fabric. Trace each of the sections of the bauble separately to pin to the different coloured felt pieces then cut out all the shapes. The crown is…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: fleece, 50x60cm (20x24in) Appliqué fabric: 28x20cm (11x8in) Binding fabric: 12x60cm (5x24in) Bondaweb: 28x20cm (11x8in) Stranded cotton Basic sewing kit NOTES Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. You will find the template on the pull-out pattern sheet with this issue. Use the hand appliqué technique and tips from the previous page to make your hot water bottle cover. Appliqué is used to describe a technique used in many different crafts, but, in sewing terms, it is used to describe a smaller fabric shape that is cut out and then stitched to larger piece of base fabric. It can be worked by hand or sewing machine, and with hand appliqué there are different methods to try. RAW EDGE METHOD This is the simplest appliqué…

Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

DRAPE A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities. EASE The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well. EDGESTITCH A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place. FACING This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline. FAT QUARTER A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). FINISHING/NEATENING RAW EDGES This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam,…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

You may recall the frenzy of sewing prompted by the appearance of Butterick’s Walkaway Dress in The Great British Sewing Bee series 3. Indeed, you may even have made it for yourself! The Walkaway Dress sew along that followed culminated in a tea party at the Knitting & Stitching Show in London, with every guest wearing their own self-sewn Walkaway Dress – members of an exclusive club with a very stylish dress code! The roaring success of the 2015 sew along prompted the folks at Butterick, Vogue and McCall’s to think about how they could get even more people sewing vintage this year, and they came up with a doozie: The Big Vintage Sew Along. “When we released the Butterick Walkaway Dress last year, we were blown away by how…

Use jeans in every hue, from baby blue to inky indigo, to sew up this pinwheel cushion by Jessica Entwistle . YOU WILL NEED Denim scraps: in different colours, to fit 24 pattern wedges Denim strips: two pieces 10x64cm (4x25in), we used a jean leg 2 self-covered buttons: 38mm (1½in) diameter Polyester fibrefill Air erasable pen Basic sewing kit NOTES Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. Find the template for this project on the pull-out pattern sheet provided. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace around the template and cut it out. The dotted lines are stitching lines and the solid line is the cutting line. Step two Pin the template to your denim scraps and cut around it to make 24 wedges. Step three There are 12 wedges on each side…

There’s a subtle impression of strength in Anna Graham’s designs. Her makes are often practical, elegant and beautifully structural – bags and baskets are a theme, as though to contain the looser elements of life and allow for more clear space and time. Anna started out sewing garments when she was a child under her mum’s watchful eye, then “dabbled a bit in college,” before really beginning to sew seriously when her daughters were tiny in 2007. “I wanted to make them so many things!” she exclaims with a smile. “I often found myself wanting something I could buy in the store, but it wasn’t exactly my style. Sewing it for myself was the perfect answer.” CHALLENGING MAKES The kinds of projects she got stuck into reveal Anna’s have-a-go attitude.…

YOU WILL NEED 1 fat quarter Medium weight interfacing – 60x30cm (24x12in) Elastic: 10cm (4in) Button Basic sewing kit NOTE Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. FABRIC USED Dance Blue from the Cotton Candy collection by Susan Driscoll for Dashwood Studio. Available from www.backstitch.co.uk Designer Jennie says: “This fabric bag is a nice grown-up way to wrap up your gifts (and it will be reusable afterwards) so put down the wrapping paper and pick up your sewing machine – Christmas is coming!“ CUTTING THE FABRIC Step one Cut the fat quarter in half lengthways. Step two Take one piece and press the interfacing on the wrong side (WS). This will be the outer bag. Step three Fold the outer bag fabric in half widthways with WS together and draw two…

CROFT MILL Selling fabrics by mail order for over 40 years, we have 100s of fabrics of all qualities and price points to suit any project. croftmill.co.uk SEW FRIENDLY Fabric, Haberdashery & Sewing Classes. Dress making, soft furnishing, quilting & crafting. Follow us on Facebook: /sewfriendlybourne. sewfriendly.co.uk SIMPLY HABERDASHERY Online haberdashery & quilting store selling fabrics by the metre, fat quarters and all sewing essentials. Use code SS10 for 10% off first order! simplyhaberdashery.com READS OF WINCHESTER Sales, services and repairs. All makes of sewing machine, new and reconditioned, plus a small haberdashery. reads-of-winchester.co.uk SEW SEW FABRICS Based in Bexleyheath, we have a wide range of fabrics from just £3 per metre and free UK delivery on orders over £20. sewsewfabrics.co.uk CRAFTY SEW & SO Crafty Sew&So have everything you…

IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects…

“ONE OF THE BEST THINGS about making my own clothes is being able to create a unique outfit using fabrics that have a personal meaning or story. I lost my husband Michael in March so finding ways to treasure memories is especially important to me, like turning special moments into a dress. This Cotton + Steel picnic basket print dress is my favourite as it was inspired by something Michael used to say. He was a quirky guy and had lots of little ways to bring fun into every day, and one of his sayings if you asked him a question and the answer was obviously yes was: “Does Yogi Bear like picnics?” He loved to pack a picnic and go off on an adventure, and one of the best…