Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 22 i Simply Sewing

It’s official: the season of selfless sewing has commenced. This month we’re compiling our Christmas lists, because it’s never too early to make a start on those handmade gifts, right? But first (admittedly on a more selfish note) we’re redesigning our winter wardrobes. From The Fold Line’s button placket dress to Lisa Comfort’s flattering pencil skirt and our own quick-to-sew faux fur snood, we’re looking forward to enjoying some seasonal glamour. Are you? # simplysewingmag…

RETRO RULES Did you spot Tatty Devine’s new sewing-themed collection in Simply Sewing issue 20? Our favourite pick of the bunch definitely has to be this retro sewing machine necklace (£75) – and we’ve got one to give away to a lucky reader! Enter today at www.simplysewingmag.com and swoon over the full collection at www.tattydevine.com SASSY STITCHING Our ideal weekend involves lots of sewing and plenty of coffee, so it’s like Genevieve Brading has read our minds with this fun cross-stitch project from her new book, I Got 99 Problems but a Stitch Ain’t One, which puts a sassy twist on traditional cross stitch with attitude-filled slogans to sew. £10 from www.octopusbooks.co.uk NEW-IN NANI IRO Naomi Ito is the Japanese artist and designer behind Nani Iro’s dreamy collections…

21-23 OCTOBER 2016 Autumn Quilt Festival. Three Counties Showground, Malvern. Admire amazing quilts from around the world and buy sewing and quilting supplies. www.grosvenorshows.co.uk 27-30 OCTOBER 2016 The Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts Show. SECC Glasgow. Stock up your sewing stash, learn new skills at crafting workshops and see inspiring creations on display. www.ichfevents.co.uk UNTIL 15 JANUARY 2017 1920s Jazz Age Fashion & Photographs. Fashion and Textile Museum, London. A glittering display of haute couture and ready-to-wear fashion from 1919 to 1929. www.ftmlondon.org 26 FEBRUARY 2017 You Say You Want A Revolution? Records and Rebels 1966-70. V&A, London. An exhibition exploring the revolutionary 1960s through music, fashion, film and design. www.vam.ac.uk…

YOU WILL NEED 1 fat quarter Thin card Aquarium gravel Bright sewing threads Basic sewing kit NOTE • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. FABRIC USED Midnight from the Cotton Candy range by Susan Driscoll for Dashwood Studio. Available to buy from www.backstitch.co.uk Designer Jennie says: “Aquarium gravel is just the ticket for filling up these little weights!“ CUTTING OUT THE SQUARES Step one Draw a grid of 9x9cm (35/8x35/8in) squares on the right side (RS) of your fabric. You should get 30 squares from your fat quarter, which will make 15 pattern weights.01 Step two Cut the squares out along the lines. STITCHING THE SQUARES Step one Pin two squares RS facing then sew them together all the way around, leaving a 2.5cm (1in) turning gap in the centre…

YOU WILL NEED Child’s jeans (ours are age 7-8) Fabric scrap: orange, to fit jeans hole Felt scraps: white and black Sewing thread: orange Stranded cotton: orange Basic sewing kit NOTE You will find the templates needed to make this project on the pull-out pattern sheet with this issue. Designer Jessica says: “Kids always seem to wear out at least one knee of every pair of jeans and trousers they own – I write from experience! Instead of recycling them, why not upcycle them by adding a monster patch to the knee. It’s really easy to do and the kids love the end result. Here’s my quick and easy version, perfect for Halloween!” CUTTING OUT Step one Cut away any frayed edges from the hole in the jean knee to…

LEARN THE TECHNIQUE Classic faux fur is a chic addition to any winter wardrobe, so we're sewing our own faux fur accessories to ward of the chill in style. There is a wonderful selection of luxuriously soft faux fur available in a variety of colours. You can make accessories and garments, or just add a touch of faux fur with removable collars or cuffs. FINDING THE NAP Faux fur has a nap, or pile, which is the direction the hairs lie in and is labelled on pattern pieces as the grainline. If you stroke the fur you'll be able to feel the direction of the nap. It’s important to cut all pieces with the nap running in the same direction and downwards so the hairs of the fur lie vertically.…

YOU WILL NEED 1 T-shirt: one or two sizes bigger than you usually wear Twill tape: to match your T-shirt, 2m (2¼yds) Cord: to match your T-shirt, 3m (3¼yds) 5mm (¼in) eyelets and washers Eyelet punch tool Hammer Basic sewing kit CUTTING THE T-SHIRT Step one Lay your T-shirt down flat and cut from sleeve to sleeve and trim off the neckline as you go. Follow the line of the neck rather than cutting straight.01 STITCHING THE TAPE IN PLACE Step one Pin the twill tape along the raw edge on the outside of the T-shirt front. Step two Stitch the tape in place by stitching through the tape and the front of the T-shirt just 2mm (1/16 in) from both long edges.02 Step three Repeat this to stitch and…

MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. TAILOR’S CHALKSX Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches.  …

IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects…

DRAPE A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities. EASE The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well. EDGESTITCH A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place. FACING This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline. FAT QUARTER A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). FINISHING/NEATENING RAW EDGES This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam,…

Well, hello autumn. Didn’t you come around fast? Not that I’m too fussed because this is my favourite season for making new clothes! And we’ve got plenty for you to choose from this issue, including The Fold Line’s oh-so-flattering Joni Dress pattern (p34) - your free gift - Lisa Comfort’s Erin Skirt sew along (p60) and Portia Lawrie’s chic and comfortable poncho (p52). Not to mention our faux fur snood workshop (p68), so glamorous! PS: BONUS GIFT WORTH £52 when you subscribe (see p20)…

MAKING LUNA LAPIN Sarah Peel (David & Charles, £15.99) Step into the charming world of Luna Lapin, a “quiet and kind rabbit with impeccable taste,” and sew your own Luna and her wardrobe of outfits. To buy a copy for £10.99 with free UK postage, call 01206 255777 and quote IM2216. Offer ends 10th December 2016. www.fwcommunity.com A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO MAKING SKIRTS Wendy Ward (CICO Books, £14.99) Wendy Ward’s second book has all the know-how and patterns you need to sew up 24 skirts from eight basic shapes. Psst! Find a pattern from the book in issue 23, on sale 3 Nov. www.rylandpeters.com TAKE A SEAT Jemima Schlee (GMC Publications, £12.99) Jemima Schlee’s inspiring book shows you how to revamp old chairs using fabrics, textures, yarns and paints. The…

We can spend hours browsing fabrics and patterns online, so we’re always looking for new websites to get our next sewing fix! Stoff & Stil is our latest find, with everything from beautiful fabrics to practical storage – and we’ve got a bumper bundle of Stoff & Stil goodies, worth £250, to give away to one lucky reader! The prize bundle includes: a dressmaker’s dummy, fabrics, three patterns and a jumbo PRYM click box with two compartments. Enter today at www.simplysewingmag.com, and browse Stoff & Stil’s range at www.stoffstil.com See www.simplysewingmag.com  to enter today! (UK only, see competition rules on p6.)…

CONTRAST COLLAR Use a contrasting fabric for the collar and cuffs. BUTTON PLACKET Make with or without a button placket for a different look. KNEE LENGTH A flattering knee-length skirt makes the Joni easy to wear. As the warm summer months fade into cool, crisp autumn days, it’s time to pack away our floaty frocks and start sewing up more practical garments – but, as The Fold Line’s Joni Dress sewing pattern proves, practical certainly doesn’t have to be boring! Its long cuffed sleeves and knee length make the Joni easy to wear and great for layering, and its classic shape and unique design details mean it’ll look different every time you make it. Prints or plains, matching or contrasting cuffs and collars, colourful buttons or no buttons at all…

YOU WILL NEED Stretch fabric: 1.5m (1¾yds) A pair of your favourite jeans Elastic: 7.5cm (3in) wide, for the waist Elastic: 12mm (½in) wide, for the ankles Basic sewing kit CUTTING OUT Step one Fold the fabric right sides (RS) together as shown, to make two equal halves. Step two Lay your jeans over one section, folded along the folded edge of the fabric. Step three Trace around but drop the gusset and extend the waist by 15-20cm (6-8in). Add 2.5cm (1in) to the leg length for a hem.01 Step four Repeat this process to trace and extend the other leg. Step five Cut out along the drawn lines. STITCHING THE LEGS Step one Sew the inner leg seam for each leg, leaving the gusset unstitched. Step two Put one…

YOU WILL NEED Ponte or sweatshirt fabric: 150cm (60in) width x 2m (2¼yds) Measuring tape Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED Ponte roma jersey in soft truffle from www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk NOTE • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. Portia says: “Sometimes you just need a little something to throw on and take the chill off. This relaxed, oversized poncho is a quick make and a stylish antidote for chillier temperatures.” CUTTING OUT THE MAIN PONCHO Step one Fold the fabric in half selvedge to selvedge with right sides (RS) together. Step two From the folded edge, mark out and cut a rectangle 56cm (22in) wide x 84cm (33in) long. This needs to be cut on the cross grain in order to reserve sufficient fabric for the bands later on.01…

DRAGONFLY FABRICS At Dragonfly Fabrics, we have one of the largest ranges of independent sewing patterns in the UK. We have modern, as well as vintage designs and an ever increasing number of international pattern designers. We are particularly excited to be stocking the new ‘How To Do Fashion Patterns’ from Copenhagen and Schnittchen Sewing Patterns from Munich. Dragonfly Fabrics have a pattern for everyone and every size, from beginners to advanced dressmakers. TEL 01892 731087 WEB dragonflyfabrics.co.uk BLOOMSBURY SQUARE Bloomsbury Square specialise in luxurious, beautiful dressmaking fabrics with a focus on wearability and good quality to inspire your handmade outfits. Creative designer patterns really deserve great fabric. In the Bloomsbury Square online store you will find gorgeous wool, tweed, linen, silk and cotton fabrics that are perfect to pair…

YOU WILL NEED For the wings and mask Heavy weight cotton fabric or felt in two contrasting colours: 50x120cm (20x48in) of each Contrast fabric for the panels: glitter, see instructions for details Heavy weight iron on interfacing: 50x120cm (20x48in) Elastic: gold, 1cm (3/8in) width x 2.5m (2¾yds) Basic sewing kit NOTES • You will find the templates for the wings and mask on the pull-out pattern sheet provided. • The finished wings have a 90cm (35in) wingspan, and are 40cm (16in) deep. The model is 8 years old, so adjust the pattern size depending on your child’s size if necessary. • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise specified. • Finish all raw edges with a machine zigzag or by overlocking. Kirsty says: “This easy-to-make dragon wings and mask…

YOU WILL NEED Main cotton fabric: light brown 30x30cm (12x12in) Contrast cotton fabric: mid brown 28x22cm (11x9in) Felt (for spikes): dark brown, 21x30cm (8½x12in) Fabric scrap: black, 5x5cm (2x2in) Stranded cotton: black Polyester toy filling Water erasable pen/pencil Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Main fabric: Kona cotton solid, Scone. Contrast fabric: Kona cotton solid, Honey. Felt: Woolfelt, Chocolate. All fabrics from Eternal Maker (www.eternalmaker.com) FINISHED SIZE Approx: 20cm (8in) tall. NOTES • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet. • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace and cut out all the template pieces. The templates include seam allowances where necessary and the arrows indicate the pile or print direction. The notches are used to match pieces when stitching…

BACK WAIST LENGTH From the top of your spine at the base of your neck to your natural waist BUST Around the fullest part of your bust HIPS Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom HEIGHT: Stand against a wall, barefoot, then measure from the top of your head to the floor HIGH BUST/CHEST: Across the back, under your arms and above the bust WAIST: Your natural waistline, around the slimmest part of your waist ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (›/›in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

“I STARTED MAKING my coat in the late summer of 2013, and I finished it a couple of months and a house move later. The very first thing I did when the boxes were unloaded in my new flat was unpack my coat and start hand-stitching the lining in! I used a vintage 1950s sewing pattern to make my coat, but I added huge zip-up pockets – they’re big enough to keep a book or a bottle of wine in! I also used exposed gold zips to fasten them, which I love as I can safely zip up my wallet in there. My handmade coat and I have been on many adventures through the streets of London, at band practice and gigs in grubby venues, to the British seaside, where…

THE FOLD LINE Rachel and Kate set up online sewing community The Fold Line in October last year, with a pattern database, a forum for connecting with other makers, and a handy sewing resources section. They designed this issue’s Joni Dress on page 34. KIRSTY HARTLEY Kirsty is the designer behind childrenswear label Wild Things and the author of two sewing books, “Wild Things: Funky Little Clothes to Sew” and “Wild Things to Make”. Make her glittery dragon wings and mask dress-up project on page 72. WENDY WARD Wendy Ward teaches sewing classes at MIY Workshop in Brighton, has a range of sewing patterns, tools and accessories called MIY Collection, and is the author of two sewing books. She shares the story behind her sewing business and her future plans…

In my last column, I spoke about zero waste’s historical design intentions. Today, although these intentions still apply, its purpose is more focussed on the elimination of waste. To design sustainably forces us to become more thoughtful. Most innovations start with identifying a need for change, and to say that the volume of textile waste needs to change is a huge understatement. Our planet, and the people who live here, simply cannot handle the quantity of landfill we are producing. And zero-waste design is one step towards a solution. As a designer, every choice I make has an impact on people and the planet. From the textiles I choose, to the thread and other haberdashery, there are positive and negative effects. I believe that it is my responsibility to decide…

YOU WILL NEED Satin or silk: 50x70cm (20x28in) Shallow plastic trough: this needs to be bigger than the fabric that you are going to float in it Bucket or large jug Whisk Dylon fabric paints Marbling tool: knitting needle, barbecue stick or toothpick Plenty of newspaper Waterproof gloves Spatula Roll of kitchen paper Cushion pad: 30x30cm (12x12in) Basic sewing kit MAKING THE PASTE Step one Put gloves on to protect your hands. Step two Whisk the wallpaper paste into water according to the manufacturer’s instructions, until it is the consistency of yoghurt.01 Step three Pour this into a shallow trough until it is almost full. Leave to stand for 15 minutes. Step four While you are waiting for the paste to set, use the time to cut your fabric so…

“WE WOULD LOVE TO USE FABRICS RECYCLED EITHER FROM OTHER MATERIALS OR FROM DISCARDED CLOTHES. I’M ALSO LOOKING AT FABRIC MADE FROM RECYCLED FISHING NETS.” The clothes we wear should be a source of pleasure, not of stress, but with fast fashion taking over the high street over the past few decades, the moral implications of what we buy are being brought increasingly into the limelight. “There’s a false idea that clothes should be cheap, but this is a myth,” designer Deborah Campbell says. “Clothes are much cheaper to buy now than they were 20 years ago – how can that be? Do we really want to treat the large majority of workers like slaves, just so we can pay unrealistically low prices?” BE INNOVATIVE Deborah Campbell (www.deborahcampbell atelier.com) has…

Have you ever wondered why and how the wardrobe staples we wear today became so popular? It’s a question that Finnish indie pattern label Named have explored with their new collection, titled Evolution Theory. The patterns combine individual details from style staples in new and unique ways, like the Helmi blouse with a trenchcoat-style cape, and the kimono-inspired Sointu tee. We love the Parisian, tailored look of the Aava blazer and Tyyni trousers. Find the full collection at www.backstitch.co.uk…

CROFT MILL Selling fabrics by mail order for over 40 years, we have 100s of fabrics of all qualities and price points to suit any project. croftmill.co.uk SEW FRIENDLY Fabric, Haberdashery & Sewing Classes. Dress making, soft furnishing, quilting & crafting. Follow us on Facebook: /sewfriendlybourne. sewfriendly.co.uk SIMPLY HABERDASHERY Online haberdashery & quilting store selling fabrics by the metre, fat quarters and all sewing essentials. Use code SS10 for 10% off first order! simplyhaberdashery.com READS OF WINCHESTER Sales, services and repairs. All makes of sewing machine, new and reconditioned, plus a small haberdashery. reads-of-winchester.co.uk SEW SEW FABRICS Based in Bexleyheath, we have a wide range of fabrics from just £3 per metre and free UK delivery on orders over £20. sewsewfabrics.co.uk CRAFTY SEW & SO Crafty Sew&So have everything you…

Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size…

UNIVERSAL A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too. BALL POINT This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. JEANS A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims. SHARPS With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes. LEATHER This needle’s wedge-shaped cutting point is used to work strong seams on non-woven fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl. STRETCH Designed for sewing two-way stretch knits such as lycra and silk jersey. It prevents skipped stitches on fine knit fabrics. QUILTING This will pierce multiple layers whilst…