Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 19 i Simply Sewing

If there’s a handmade alternative, we’ll make it. Whether it’s for our wardrobe or our home, we love nothing more than lovingly sewing (and proudly displaying!) our precious me-mades. From pincushions to maxi dresses, we’ve crammed this issue with heaps of projects for every ability. So, whether you’re a seasoned pro or you’ve just started out – we’d love to see what you make from this month’s selection! Tag your photos using # simplysewingmag…

LINGERIE DESIGN Pamela Powell (Laurence King, £40) Learn how to design and construct your own lingerie, sleepwear and foundation garments with step-by-step instructions by Pamela Powell, which cover creating and manipulating basic blocks, adding embellishments and working with speciality fabrics. www.laurenceking.com NO PATTERNS NEEDED Rosie Martin (Laurence King, £17.95) Sew a new wardobe with Rosie Martin’s patternless method, which uses a circle, rectangle or triangle of fabric and basic measurements. www.laurenceking.com THE SIMPLE SIMON GUIDE TO PATCHWORK QUILTING Liz Evans and Elizabeth Evans (Fons & Porter, £14.99) Two bloggers share eight quilt project blocks, from simple to intermediate designs. www.shopfonsandporter.com FASHION DRAWING Michele Wesen Bryant (Laurence King, £38) This guide shows you how to draw figures in a variety of poses. A useful resource for both fashion students and home…

LIFE IN MINIATURE Illustrator Elena is inspired by everyday life, as shown by these patches featuring tiny lollies and mugs. £1.50 each. www.elenaillustration.etsy.com IN BLOOM Spread the love with this pretty inspirational design perfect for jazzing up a plain jacket. £5. www.ohno  rachio.etsy.com NAILED IT Let everyone know you’re a manicure maven with this bright nail polish patch in cheerful hues. £4 each. www.lemon  freckles.etsy.com WHAT A GEM Who needs real gemstones when you’ve got this gorgeous hand- embroidered gem? £22. www.shiny  fabulousdarling.etsy.com ALADDIN SANE Unleash your inner rockstar and pay homage to Bowie with this lightning bolt patch in silk and felt. £8. www. lanegret.etsy.com…

We’re enchanted by Bryony and Co’s vintage-inspired frocks, printed with eponymous designer Bryony’s illustrations (see the collection at www.bryonyandco.com, and read about her designs on p44). Add a sprinkle of Bryony and Co magic to your wardrobe with our giveaway – the winner will receive an Iris Pink Zoo dress and mint cardigan, and an Ivy Pink Zoo dress with jacquard socks for their stylish little one. Enter at www.simplysewingmag.com See www.simplysewingmag.com  to enter today! (UK only, see competition rules on p6.)…

PENNANT BANNER Make a statement and practice your appliqué skills with a slogan pennant banner with a hand- stitched cotton spool, which can be personalised with a phrase that inspires you to get stitching! PINCUSHION STORAGE JARS Put your prettiest notions on display in pincushion Kilner jars. First, draw around the inner lid onto your fabric, adding 1cm all the way around. Stuff this fabric circle with fibrefill filling then insert the inner lid, wrapping the excess fabric around it. Use running stitch to gather the fabric to secure. SEWING MACHINE COVER Our sewing machine is one of our most prized possessions, so we want to keep it safely under wraps and free from dust when we’re not stitching. This patchwork cover has a layer of wadding for added protection…

Beaded earrings plus beachy waves equals the ultimate summer look, £7.99, www.newlook.com 1980s cool meets boho chic with this straw visor, £19.90, uk.accessorize.com Wear two trends in one with a monochrome-print fedora, £9.99, www.newlook.com Suede? Tick. Fringing? Tick. Stylish print? Tick. This cross- body bag ticks all our style boxes, £29, uk.accessorize.com Gold charms add a luxe finishing touch, £5.99, www.newlook.com Show off manicured toes in suede fringe sandals, £27, uk.accessorize.com Swap your sandals for suede boots on cooler evenings, £99, www. dunelondon.com…

Bigger is always better when it comes to statement florals, £15, uk.accessorize.com Polish your look with a bright manicure, £6, www.marksand spencer.com Sunny days call for sunny hues like this zingy orange tote, £55, www.dunelondon.com Keep it simple with a plain pashmina in a luxurious silk blend, £35, www.phase-eight.com Look stylish from workday to weekend in a pair of smart cropped trousers, £49.95, www.whitestuff.com Work the colour- block trend with two-tone sandals, £65, www.dunelondon.com…

CROFT MILL A polyester satin can be a great choice for a summer maxi skirt, with lovely draping qualities they can be easily folded up small – perfect for when you go on holiday. Alternatively a cotton lawn will keep you cool and will not be too heavy for the style – team either with a plain boob tube for a designer look. TEL 01282 859281 WEB croftmill.co.uk SEW CRAFTY ONLINE We have hundreds of summer fabrics at Sew Crafty, perfect for pepping up your handmade summer wardrobe. From lightweight cotton prints to chi on and seersucker, you will find all the fun fabrics you need alongside our extensive haberdashery and trimmings collections. We are also home to our own exclusive sewing journal and brand new dressmaking journal along with…

Lovingly handmade gifts are always well-received, especially when they’re embellished with hand-embroidery – and bestowing your creations will give you a great sense of accomplishment, so it’s win-win! Give wild flowers that will last with pretty blooms sewn in lazy daisy stitch. Bookworms will love this thoughtful embroidered bookmark, while a little handmade zip-up pouch makes a great gift for that hard-to-buy-for someone (if you can bear to part with it, that is!). Learn the stitch on page 55.…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: cotton poplin or quilting cotton: 100x112cm (40x44in) Lining fabric: 15x35cm (6x14in) Sunshine appliqué fabric: yellow, 20x40cm (8x16in) Fabric scraps: black, orange, pink for appliqué features Lightweight iron-on interfacing: 45x30cm (18x12in) Bondaweb: 30x40cm (12x16in) Grosgrain ribbon: 5cm (2in) 6 shirt buttons Matching threads Basic sewing kit NOTES • The templates needed to make this project are on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue and on page 91. • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance throughout unless otherwise stated. • Finish all raw fabric edges as you go by working a machine zigzag stitch or overlocking. CUTTING OUT Step one Choose the size for your child using the finished garment measurements on page 72 and the age recommendation. Step two Cut out all the pattern…

YOU WILL NEED T-shirt Fabric scraps Basic sewing kit Designer Jennie says: “This T-shirt restyle is a great quick fix for a fancy dress party or gift for a budding young paleontologist!“ We see no reason why you couldn’t make this in adult sizes, too! Festival outfit, anyone? CUTTING THE FABRIC Step one Cut out some triangles for spikes from your fabric scraps. We cut equilateral triangles with each side measuring 7cm (2 in). Step two Measure the length of your T-shirt to work out how many spikes you need and what size. The spikes need to fit down the length of the T-shirt with small gaps between each one. We had five spikes on our T-shirt, so cut out ten triangles in total.01 MAKING THE SPIKES Step one Take…

BOY’S SHIRT PAGE 68 SHIRT SUNSHINE AND POCKET SUNSHINE BOX GARDEN PAGE 59 FRUIT AND VEGETABLES Thank you for making these projects from Simply Sewing. The copyright for these templates belongs to the designer of the project. They work hard to create projects for you to enjoy, so please don’t re-sell or distribute their work without permission. Please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Copyright law protects creative work and unauthorised copying is illegal. We appreciate your help.…

Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

ROSIE: “This white skirt is my most recent sewing project and my current favourite. It’s so easy to wear in the summer with just a vest top, and the style is flattering for my shape. I made it without using a pattern, by simply cutting two rectangles which were gathered at the top and attached to a waistband. I followed a great By Hand London (www.byhandlondon.com) tutorial for making a gathered skirt. I loved sewing with the broderie anglaise, too – it’s ready-hemmed, which is a dream! I found it on Goldhawk Road in London for £14 a metre and they had lots of other colours. I’m planning a couple of other variations for the skirt already – when you find something that works, you should just roll with it!”…

For me, prettifying my sewing space is an important part of my hobby. From my beloved button tins to stacked fabric shelving, I’m all about showcasing my beautiful finds. Spruce up your space with pretty handmade accessories (p22) – or enter our competition to win the set! After all, there are lots of other makes to be getting along with such as The Betty Blouse (p40) and The Olivia Dress (p34) your two free patterns this issue.* Enjoy! PS: GET 5 ISSUES fOR £5 when you subscribe (see p38)…

Got Liberty lawn fabric in your stash but too nervous to cut into it? Designer of The Betty Blouse (page 40), Rosee Woodland, offers her top tips: “I have a variety of pins to suit different fabrics – fine pins, used within the seam allowances, are best for Liberty lawns. It can be tricky to tell the right and wrong sides of lawn apart as the dye really sinks through the fabric, so put a small bit of masking tape on the wrong side of each piece to remind you.” www.roseewoodland.com…

Designer-maker Megan Crook was inspired to learn to create her own garments after falling in love with beautiful Liberty Art Fabrics, and went on to study pattern cutting before setting up her eponymous label. Her Liberty collection features statement styles sewn up in contemporary Liberty brushed cotton prints. She drafts and grades all her pattern blocks from scratch, as well as producing made-to-measure commissions. From £77. www.megancrook.com…

GATHERED SLEEVES Two sleeve lengths feature an easy-sew gathered cuff. TWO LENGTHS The dress can be made to a maxi or knee length. ELASTIC WAISTBAND A hidden elastic waistband gives a flattering and comfortable fit. FRILLED HEM The shorter dress length has a pretty frill-hem detail. The second pattern in Simply Sewing’s new Cotton + Chalk (www.cottonandchalk.com) collection is The Olivia Dress, a summer dress with a relaxed boho vibe, flattering loose fit and two different sleeve and length options. Dress A has a round neckline with an elastic casing at the waist and is knee length with a ruffled hem, while Dress B is a maxi length dress with an on-trend side seam split and contrast band. Both can be made with full or three-quarter sleeves, depending on how…

TWO PATTERN PIECES This simple top is made with just two pieces. EASY WEAR This wardrobe staple can be worn with a variety of separates. DOLMAN SLEEVES The sleeves and bodice are cut as one piece for quick construction. PINTUCK DETAIL Pintucks add a stylish detail to the blouse front. Whether you’re completely new to sewing garments or are a seasoned dressmaker, a staple, wear-with-anything blouse like Rosee Woodland’s Betty, in UK sizes 6-20, is a must for your pattern stash. Its flattering fit, quick construction and pintuck detail makes it a style you’ll want to make again and again in different prints and fabrics. The options are endless with this simple pattern! The Betty will see you through the seasons – wear yours tucked into your favourite skirt with…

YOU WILL NEED 1 fat quarter Contrast fabric: 18x12cm (7x5in) (optional) A4 plastic wallet Interfacing, medium weight Ribbon: 1x25cm (3/8x10in) Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet. FABRICS USED Flight from the Cotton Candy range by Susan Driscoll for Dashwood Studio. Available from www.backstitch.co.uk Faux metallic leather contrast fabric – free with Simply Sewing issue 12. Designer Jennie says: “Holidays are here again! Jet off in style with these unique luggage tags. They make great gifts for travel-loving pals, too!“ CUTTING OUT Step one Trace the two templates from the pull-out pattern sheet and cut them out. Step two From the fat quarter, cut out the following pieces: Pocket: 11x10cm (43/8x4in). Tag back: Cut…

YOU WILL NEED Small wooden fruit box: 28x18x10cm (11x7x4in), you can get small fruit boxes like this one from the greengrocer’s as they’re often used to store strawberries or cherries. Felt: Brown 30x75cm (12x30in) Felt: different coloured scraps for the fruit and veg Polyester fibrefill Stranded cotton: to match felt Card Ink Letter stamps Garden stamps DECORATING THE BOX Step one Paint your box in earthy colours and let it dry fully before you add your felt soil rolls. Step two Make a little garden sign with card and pretty stamps to decorate the box. MAKING THE SOIL ROLLS Step one Cut four 23x30cm (9x12in) rectangles from brown felt. Step two Fold one rectangle in half widthways and stitch together along the long side. Step three Turn right sides (RS)…

There’s a particular mindset that makes up a successful textiles designer, it seems. You need to have a thirst for colour and patterns, and a magpie eye that helps you identify the shapes, shades and repeats that could be the jumping point for a selection of original designs that work together in harmony. For Amy Butler (www.amybutlerdesign.com), becoming a textiles designer followed on naturally from a love of creative expression in all its forms. “I come from a very artistic family, which has fed my design preferences, style and taste,” she says. “My mom and Grandmother G were both artists as well as great collectors of decorative garage sale finds and textiles. I grew up surrounded by beautiful finds and artistry.” Leah Duncan (www.leahduncan.com) also started with a passion for…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: dark green plush, 50x75cm (20x30in) Contrast fabric: mid green plush, 30x35cm (12x14in) Felt: white, 3x20cm (1½x8in) 2 safety eyes: black, 12mm (½in) Polyester toy filling Water erasable pen/pencil Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Main fabric: Dimple Cuddle in Kiwi. Contrast fabric: Smooth Cuddle 3 in Apple Green. All fabrics used from www.plushaddict.co.uk FINISHED SIZE Approx 30cm (12in) tall. NOTES • You will find the templates needed on the pull-out pattern sheet included with this issue. • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace and cut out all the template pieces. The templates include seam allowances where necessary and the arrows indicate the pile or print direction for marking and cutting out. The notches are used to match pieces…

MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. TAILOR’S CHALKS Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching.…

IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects…

DRAPE A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities. EASE The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well. EDGESTITCH A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place. FACING This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline. FAT QUARTER A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). FINISHING/NEATENING RAW EDGES This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam,…

KIRSTY HARTLEY Designer and craft author Kirsty Hartley designs colourful fabric prints and playful childrenswear and accessories in the UK, and is the designer behind popular children’s clothing label, Wild Things. Find her sunny boy’s shirt on page 68. BRYONY RICHARDSON Growing up on a North Yorkshire farm, Bryony is inspired by the idyll of a countryside childhood, and the desire for nostalgia feeds Bryony’s imagination as she designs the Bryony and Co clothing collections and books. Step into the storybook world of Bryony and Co on page 44. AMANDA RUSSELL & JULIET BAWDEN Designer-makers Amanda and Juliet are the duo behind R&B Designs. The pair have been working in the creative industry for over 20 years and write for a number of craft titles. Turn to page 61 for…

23 JULY 2 OCTOBER 2016 Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen’s Wardrobe. Buckingham Palace, London. The second in a series of three exhibitions featuring over 150 outfits worn by The Queen. www.royalcollection.org.uk 30 JULY JANUARY 2017 Decades of Youth. Abbey House Museum, Leeds. Through objects, photos and films, explore local youth culture and fashion from the 1940s to the Noughties. www.leeds.gov.uk 11 14 AUGUST 2016 The Festival of Quilts. NEC Birmingham. A celebration of quilting with over 300 exhibitors and more than 700 quilts on display.www.thefestivalofquilts.co.uk 16 18 SEPTEMBER 2016 The Handmade Fair. Hampton Court Palace. One of the biggest craft events of the year with workshops, stalls and talks from the likes of Patrick Grant. www.thehandmadefair.com…

Our sewing project plans always start with beautiful fabrics. We just can’t resist soft cotton prints! That’s why we’re so excited to have 17 metres of cotton fabric from the Geometrics range by Inprint by Jane Makower (www.makower.co.uk) to give away to one lucky reader. Geometric -print homewares and garments are everywhere on the high street this season, so here’s a chance to sew your own! Enter the giveaway today at www.simplysewingmag.com See www.simplysewingmag.com  to enter today! (UK only, see competition rules on p6.)…

We’re dreaming of a maxi Olivia Dress in this coral viscose from www.backstitch.co.uk Polka dot squares, shop.sewoverit.com Dash lime, www.backstitch.co.uk Scattered flowers, www.backstitch.co.uk Chiffon Petal, shop.sewoverit.com Angèle by Atelier Brunette, www.back stitch.co.uk Summer Haze, shop.sewoverit.com We love these painterly florals in primary colours from shop.sewoverit.com…

We love the striking Heidi Maria print from shop.sewoverit.com, inspired by botanical plants. Transport and flowers, www.backstitch.co.uk Tresco, www.alice caroline.com Mauverina, shop.sewoverit.com Yoshie B, www.alice caroline.com Beyoglu, www.liberty.co.uk Archive Lilac, www.alicecaroline.com Try a classic ditzy floral print from www.backstitch.co.uk for a vintage-inspired look.…

YOU WILL NEED Light to medium weight fabric 150cm (60in) wide fabric: 2m (2¼ yds) Iron-on interfacing: 20cm (8in) Zip: 23cm (9in) Basic sewing kit Designer Portia says: “With festival season upon us, ramp up your festival style with this luxe boho maxi skirt. The main body of the skirt is just three simple rectangles of fabric! It doesn’t get any simpler than that, right? Don’t want a maxi? Easy – the same process will work for mini, midi, maxi, whatever length you like. This could be the only skirt pattern you’ll ever need!” MEASURING UP Step one Measure and take a note of your waist measurement – this is described as W. Step two Decide and measure what you want the finished length of your skirt to be and…

YOU WILL NEED Deckchair Canvas to fit 1 pot of each of red and yellow fabric paints Acrylic block Glue stick Hobby foam sheet Car wash sponge Scissors OHP pen (overhead projector pen) Water erasable marker Basic sewing kit HEMMINGTHE CANVAS Step one Wash your fabric before you begin, as this will prevent shrinkage later on and will also make the fabric easier to print on. Step two Use the old deckchair cover to cut out a pattern for the new one. Add a 2cm (¾in) seam allowance on either side and 6cm (2 3/8in) at the top and bottom. Step three Turn the sides under by 1cm (3/8in) to the wrong side (WS) then 1cm (3/8in) again and pin into place so all of the rough edges are hidden.…

YOU WILL NEED Pair of jeans Chalk pencil: white Matching thread Basic sewing kit Designer Jessica says: “This is a very simple way of turning a pair of old jeans into a cute skirt for the summer. You could add lace or appliqué some fabric shapes to embellish it, or keep it yours simple as we have with a frayed hem. If you want a looser fit, get a pair of jeans that are larger than your normal size from a charity shop, otherwise use an old pair of your own.” CUTTING AND UNPICKING Step one Work out how long you would like your finished skirt to be and cut off each leg to 4cm (1›/›in) longer than that length as it will be trimmed to fit later. Step two…

As self-confessed fabricaholics, we don't want to let any offcuts go to waste (which is why our fabric stash is overflowing!), so we love any technique that showcases our precious scraps. Reverse appliqué, which involves layering fabrics and cutting away the top layer to reveal the fabric underneath, is one such technique. It's a simple way to update and personalise home textiles or clothing, or to add pattern and texture to your projects. There are several reverse appliqué methods, depending on the type of fabric and how much wear the finished appliqué will get. Learn the technique with our guide overleaf, then gather your best scraps and stitch up your own reverse appliqué cushion. LEARN THE TECHNIQUE Reverse appliqué is, as its name suggests, is the opposite of traditional appliqué.…

BACK WAIST LENGTH From the top of your spine at the base of your neck to your natural waist BUST Around the fullest part of your bust HIPS Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom HEIGHT Stand against a wall, barefoot, then measure from the top of your head to the floor HIGH BUST/CHEST Across the back, under your arms and above the bust WAIST Your natural waistline, around the slimmest part of your waist ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope…

UNIVERSAL A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too. BALL POINT This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. JEANS A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims. SHARPS With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes. LEATHER This needle’s wedge-shaped cutting point is used to work strong seams on non-woven fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl. STRETCH Designed for sewing two-way stretch knits such as lycra and silk jersey. It prevents skipped stitches on fine knit fabrics. QUILTING This will pierce multiple layers whilst…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…