Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 18 i Simply Sewing

With summer holidays on the horizon, we’re looking forward to appreciating the great outdoors! Wow your friends with glorious handmade picnic accessories, get festival-ready with a simple lace T-shirt refashion and say hello to your new favourite skirt, made in a bold wax-print fabric - perfect for twirling around in at summer parties! Who’s looking forward to a season of colourful sewing? Share your makes using # simplysewingmag or by finding us on Facebook @simplysewingmagazine…

FLORAL FANCY Cornwall, UK, is known for its beautiful coastline and laid-back vibe, and Cornish clothing brand Seasalt reflects the region’s cultural heritage in its collections, which feature easy-to-wear, classic styles and unique prints in quality fabrics, including organic cottons. This quilted jacket is the perfect cover-up for breezy walks along the beach (and we love a florals-and-stripes combo!). Hawthorn jacket, £69.95. www.seasaltcornwall.co.uk LEARN WITH LISA A new online class from Lisa Comfort and the Sew Over It team, the Ultimate Guide to Fitting and Sewing Trousers (approx £40), demystifies the process of making trousers, with beginner and intermediate patterns in sizes 8-20. We’re giving three lucky readers a chance to win free access to the online class – enter at www.simplysewingmag.com THE COLD SHOULDER Off-the-shoulder styles are…

Being able to fill our homes and wardrobes with lovely handmade projects that are unique to us is what we love most about sewing, which is why we’ve put together a bundle of Simplicity (www.simplicitynewlook.com) sewing goodies for one lucky reader to get creative with for this issue’s competition. The winner will receive a selection of gorgeous trims, a hand-picked bundle of 10 Simplicity sewing patterns, plus a sewing caddy to keep all your tools and notions to hand while you’re stitching up a storm! See www.simplysewingmag.com  to enter today! (UK only, see competition rules on p6.)…

CRAFT CLUB BOX Monthly Sewing Subscription Box Just £10 (p&p £3) For New & Experienced Sewers. Sewing Kit + Craft Products + eMagazine No Risk Trial. Cancel any time. Free P&P on 1st box. Checkout code: SSPP Visit us to learn more. WEB www.craftclubbox.co.uk ALICE CAROLINE We are really excited to have launched our brand new Liberty Stars Club recently and thought that you would love it. We love putting rainbow and seasonal colours together – it’s one of our favourite things to do so we have a Liberty Rainbow Stars Club and a Liberty Seasonal Stars Club for you to choose from. As members of either club, you will get lovely free fabric, the latest Liberty news and the odd free pattern too. TEL 01386 725000 WEB www.alicecaroline.co.uk DREAM…

Flower earrings add a subtle pop of colour, £10, www.whitestuff.com Floral accessories like this necklace are the perfect match for Lizzy’s Liberty-print pockets, £19.95, www.whitestuff.com Get summer in a bottle with this yellow nail varnish, £6, www.marksandspencer.com Brighten grey days with a colourful cover-up, £8, www.bonmarche.com Double denim is a fashion faux-pas no more! Sandals, £20, www.tesco.com/clothing A pair of bright espadrille wedges will take you from day to night, apprrox £60, www.espadrij.com…

Blissful long summer days mean more time for enjoying the great outdoors, be it at the park, the beach or in your own garden. When warm afternoons roll into cool evenings, there’s no need to head inside just yet – instead, accessorise with a scarf to keep the breeze at bay. Ours is hand-embellished with a simple blanket stitched flower motif for a personal touch – the ideal first project if you’ve never sewn blanket stitch before. Master the technique and sew a floral hoop design with our stitch workshop on page 43.…

When it comes to summer sewing, we’re all about bold designs and jewel brights, so wax prints (colourful cottons printed with batik) are at the top of our fabric shopping list this season. Wax prints are a dream to sew with and will add an instant hit of colour to your home or wardrobe – just look at this eye-catching frock from ‘The Great British Sewing Bee: From Stitch to Style’! To make this and other projects inspired by GBSB series four, get your copy of the book at www.quadrille.co.uk (Quadrille, £25).…

YOU WILL NEED 1 fat quarter Lining fabric: see instructions for further details Zip: nylon, closed end, approx 4cm (1 5/8in) longer than the top of your template in a matching or contrasting colour Basic sewing kit NOTES Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. FABRICS USED Nimbus in Navy from First Light by Eloise Renouf for Cloud9 Fabrics.www.purple-stitches.com CUTTING THE PATTERN AND FABRIC Step one Make a paper pattern from your sunglasses by drawing around them, adding 3cm (1¼in) for ease and a seam allowance all the way around. Fold your pattern in half to make sure it’s symmetrical, trimming to shape if not.01 Step two Using this pattern, cut two pieces from the fat quarter and two from the lining fabric. Use a soft fabric for the lining to…

The space that we inhabit can show the world a little about who we are, what we love, and even what we’re capable of as sewists. With a bit of thought and skill we can surround ourselves with home comforts that enhance where we live while satisfying our creative urges. Jane Marland of www.handmadejane.co.uk began sewing seriously after taking a beginner’s dressmaking course in 2009. “I’ve been sewing my own clothes and accessories ever since,” she says. “My main focus is dressmaking but I also enjoy making craft items and accessories for the home. Everything I make is documented on my blog, along with any tips or shortcuts I’ve picked up along the way.” Jemma Bell of www.sodaandstitch.com began introducing home-sewn elements into her house after relocating to Jaipur, India.…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: plush, 45x50cm (18x20in) Contrast fabric: plush or cotton, 35x35cm (14x14in) 2 safety eyes: black, 12mm (½in) diameter Stranded cotton: black Polyester toy filling Water erasable pen/pencil Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Main fabric: Smooth Cuddle 3 in Opal or Paris Pink; Contrast fabric: Smooth Cuddle 3 in Opal or Fairy Frost from Princess by Michael Miller. All fabrics from www.plushaddict.co.uk FINISHED SIZE Approx 36cm (14in) tall. NOTES The templates needed to make this project are available to download at Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. Itisnotalwaysnecessary to clip the seam allowance at corners and around curves when using plush fabric, as the stretch in the fabric will often allow for this. Clipping is only instructed where necessary. CUTTING OUT Step one…

YOU WILL NEED Cardigan Print scarf Basic sewing kit NOTE • Use the basic instructions from the previous page for calculating the fabric and making the frill . GETTING STARTED Step one Choose a plain cardigan and a scarf that co-ordinates well with it. Step two A lightweight fabric such as a viscose scarf works well for this frill, as it will drape nicely once it is gathered.01 FINISHING THE EDGE Step one To secure the knitted cardigan edge before you cut it, work machine zigzag stitches just above the ribbed edge. Step two Now it’s secure, trim off the ribbed edge at the bottom, making sure you keep it straight by following the row of knitting.02 MAKING THE FRILL We have used a double strip frill for this cardigan…

Preparing your fabric and cutting out your sewing pattern accurately is just as important as the actual sewing. Wash your fabric before you begin as fabric can shrink and run. Once dry, press it well. PREPARING THE PATTERN Patterns often come with several options of different finishes so you may have more pieces than you need. The instruction sheet will tell you which pieces to use. Roughly cut out all of the pieces outside the lines then press the pieces using a dry iron on a low heat to remove the folds and creases. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Choose your size using your measurements and the size chart. Cut along the corresponding lines on your pattern. When you reach any fiddly curves, take care to cut along the correct size…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…

“THIS DRESS IS ONE OF my absolute favourite sewing projects, and is actually only the second dress I have ever sewn for myself. As I’m a printed textile designer, that may come as a bit of a surprise, but day-to-day I’m usually found silk screen printing my fabrics and sewing up a collection of homeware goods, rather than stitching new garments for my wardrobe, so learning new dressmaking skills was both a real joy and a new challenge. Starting with the wonderful Elisalex dress pattern from the fabulous ladies at By Hand London (and their fantastic, easy-to-follow blog sew-alongs) I taught myself how to alter the pattern to make it my own. If you’re new to dressmaking, I definitely recommend checking out the patterns and sew-alongs on the By Hand…

Well hello sunshine, it’s been too long! This month we’re all about getting out and about in our me-mades. We’re expressing our individual summer style with a vibrant wax-print skirt (p50), simple lace panel T-shirt update (p80) and chintzy floral pockets on The Lizzy Dress (p36) which is one of the two free patterns* we’re giving you this month. Share your summer looks using #simplysewingmag, or search for us on facebook @simplysewingmagazine PS: GET A SEWING MACHINE when you subscribe (see p32)…

27 MAY 2016-1 MAY 2017 Fashion on the Ration: 1940s Street Style. Imperial War Museum North, Manchester. An exhibition exploring the creative ways Brits found to dress stylishly during World War II.www.iwm.org.uk 11 JUNE-9 OCTOBER 2016 Shoes: Pleasure and Pain. The Bowes Museum. County Durham. See 2000 years of footwear design at this exhibition organised by the V&A.www.thebowesmuseum.org.uk 1-3 JULY 2016 The Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts Show. NEC Birmingham. Knitters, stitchers and crafters will be in their element at this show.www.stitchandhobby.co.uk UNTIL 8 JAN 2017 Fashion Cities Africa. Brighton Museum & Art Gallery. An insight into the fashion scene at the four compass points of the continent.www.brightonmuseums.org.uk…

YOU WILL NEED Cotton fabric: 25x40cm (10x16in) for each flag 2.5cm (1in) wide cotton tape Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED • Liberty Thorpe W Tana Lawn from www.liberty.co.uk NOTES Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. Trace the flag template from p96 to make your bunting. CALCULATING THE FABRIC Step one The finished flags are 15cm (6in) wide with a gap of 10cm (4in) between them. So, divide the length you want your finished bunting to be by 25cm (10in) to work out how many flags you need to make. Step two Buy cotton tape to the length of your finished bunting plus about 30cm (12in) extra at either end for hanging it up. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut around the bunting flag template. Step two Cut the fabric in half…

Designer Wendy Ward says: “The Walkley is your new favourite alternative to a T-shirt! The vest is nice and long so you won’t be flashing your midriff, and the dress works with bare legs in summer as well as over leggings or jeans in the cooler months. Both options are included in the pattern, as are instructions for adding extra seams so that you can combine different fabrics (great for stash-busting!). It’s the perfect project to have a go at if you’ve never sewn with knits before, as it’s super easy if made all in one fabric and is really quick to sew.” FABRIC SUGGESTIONS: Use knit fabrics only. YOU WILL NEED To make the dress: Fabric narrower than 140cm (55in) width: 2m (2¼yds), for all sizes Fabric 140cm (55in)…

YOU WILL NEED Linen fabric: 100x120cm (40x47in) Satin fabric: 100x120cm (40x47in) Polyester toy filling Stranded cotton: pink and brown Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES The templates needed to make this project are available to download from Use a 5mm ( in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. Use a stitch length slightly shorter than usual to suit the linen and satin fabrics. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace around both templates and cut them out. Step two From the linen fabric cut out the following pieces: Blanket: 100x100cm (40x40in). Bunny face: cut 1. Bunny head back: cut 1. Ears: cut 2. Step three From the satin fabric cut out the following pieces: Blanket: 100x100cm (40x40in). Ears: cut 2.01 MAKING THE FACE Step one Place the cut out bunny face over the…

Frills are one of the biggest trends in the shops this spring and summer, so, naturally, we've had a go at sewing our own. Whether you want to add a dramatic frill to your latest sewing project or update an existing garment with a pretty ruffle detail, you'll need to use the same technique – so once you've mastered it there'll be no stopping you! Adding frills in a matching or contrasting fabric is a simple way to transform girl's dresses, smart blouses, or, as we have here, a plain cardigan from your wardrobe. Overleaf, we take you through the technique step by step, and show you how to give a cardi a fresh new look with a frilled hem. Turn the page to discover the thrill of the frill!…

MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. TAILOR’S CHALKS Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches.…

IT’S IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE the correct fabric for your pattern. Most patterns give suggested fabric types that will work best with the style of garment. Use this to guide you as some patterns need more drape, body or structure than others. Fabric can be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, wool and silk or synthetic fibres such as acetate, acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon and viscose. All these fabric come in different weights, or thicknesses, which suit different garments. Lightweight fabrics are ideal for lingerie, nightwear and summer clothing, and include cheesecloth, chiffon, crepe-de-chine, georgette, lawn, muslin, organdie, organza and voile. Medium-weight fabrics, which work for dresses, shirts, trousers and childrenswear, include calico, cotton, crepe, dupion, linen, poplin and finer wool. Heavy-weight fabrics are used for garments or projects…

DEBBIE HUMPHREYS After a long career making wedding dresses, Debbie Humphrey’s whippet Bruno inspired her to start making dog attire in 2010. Find out more at www.redhoundfordogs.com and turn to page 76 to make her patchwork dog bed and blanket. KIMBERLY KIGHT Designer-maker, quilter and Cotton + Steel fabric designer Kimberly Kight creates the kind of gorgeous prints we can’t wait to add to our stash. Find out what inspires her designs and about her plans for the future fabric collections on page 46. WENDY WARD Wendy is the author of the bestselling book, “The Beginner’s Guide to Dressmaking”. She worked in fashion for 7 years and has been teaching since 2007. Wendy’s www.miycollection.com patterns are modern, classic, everyday clothes. Find her Walkley dress and top design on page 56.…

AMY BUTLER’S PIECE KEEPING Amy Butler (Chronicle Books, £19.99) The latest book from the queen of the quilts celebrates patchwork with 20 projects and patterns to try, with new skills to learn along the way. Projects include a stylish belt, homewares and even a patchwork dress! www.chroniclebooks.com NOW I CAN SEW Sian Hamilton (GMC Publications, £12.99) Get the next generation of crafters hooked with this book’s felt projects for ages eight and over. They’ll be stitching their own felt creations in no time! www.thegmcgroup.com DRESS YOU UP Rosy Nicholas (Quadrille, £12.99) This thrifty new book shows you how to make your own on-trend accessories using simple craft techniques and materials, from on-trend pom pom rings to jazzy sequin earrings. It’s time to accessorise! www.quadrille.co.uk HAPPY QUILTS! Antonie Alexander (Fons &…

JEWEL BRIGHTS We love this geometric design’s delicious combo of hot pink, zingy orange and navy. Approx £9 for 1m. www.womanshopsworld.etsy.com SCANDI STYLE Add Scandi style to your next project with this subtle ribbon trim. Approx £9 for 4m. www. insideoutand  over.etsy.com PRETTY IN PINK This bold ribbon’s sweet stitched leaf design lets that punchy bright pink hue do all the talking. Approx £10 for 1m. shop.sew  overit.com GO FOR GOLD Sequins and gold give this trim a lux feel, perfect for adding to a special dress. Approx £3.50 for 1m. www. knicknacknook. etsy.com PERFECT PAISLEY Nothing says boho quite like paisley prints and florals, and this trim has them both covered. Approx £10 for 1m.…

Stylish chambray shift dresses are one of the most sought-after styles on the high street this summer, so why not sew your own? The Lizzy Dress pattern is a quintessential shift dress that can be worn casually with flats for an easy daytime look, or dressed up for the evening – it’s all down to how you style it and the fabric you make it in. The pattern is sized to fit standard UK dress sizes, from 6-20. The detailed instructions will take you through how to sew the unique neckband detail and facing and optional patch pockets, along with key dressmaking techniques such as sewing bust darts, adding sleeves, inserting an invisible zip and hemming the dress for a neat finish. FABRIC SUGGESTIONS: Medium-weight fabrics such as cotton, chambray,…

YOU WILL NEED Printed cotton fabric: 110cm (43in) width x 4m (4½ yds) or 150cm (60in) width x 2.5m (2¾yds) Iron-on interfacing to suit the weight of your fabric: see instructions for details Invisible zip: 25cm (10in) Bias binding: see instructions for details Hook and bar closure or button Embroidery thread or yarn Fabric pencil or chalk Matching thread Invisible zip foot Basic sewing kit NOTES You will find the pocket template at Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. MEASURING UP Step one Decide how long you would like your skirt to be, from your waist to the lower hem. Take this measurement and add 1.5cm (5/8in) for the seam allowance. This measurement is called Skirt Length. Step two Measure your waist circumference and take off 10cm…

YOU WILL NEED FOR THE PATTERN Brown paper Tracing paper Tape Pencil Ruler Tape measure FOR THE SKIRT Light to medium-weight fabric: approx 2m (2 yds) Fusible interfacing Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED We used a medium-weight triple crepe fabric in navy from Remnant Kings.www.remnantkings.co.uk MEASURING UP Step one Take the following measurements (see p91 for guidance) and note them down: W = Waist. This is your natural waistline. H = Hip. Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom. HL = Hipline. The vertical distance between you waistline and hip. L = Length. The length of your finished skirt. DRAFTING THE PATTERN Step one Cut a rectangle from brown paper. The width should be half of W. The length is the same as L. Mark the…

YOU WILL NEED 1 T-shirt Scrap piece of lace Bondaweb Basic sewing kit Designer Jennie says: “Stand out this summer with the ultimate festival-chic T-shirt. Zigzag stitching around the lace insert will strengthen it, but it will hold in place without sewing if you fancy a night off from your machine!“ MAKING A PATTERN Step one Make a paper pattern of the shape and the size you’d like your insert panel to be. We have chosen a five-point star. Either draw a star template yourself, or search for a free template to download online.01 CUTTING OUT THE SHAPE Step one Turn your T-shirt inside out and fold or measure to find the centre of the front or back depending on exactly where you want to place your insert. Step two…

Frills add a professional finishing touch to your dressmaking and home sewing. You can add a tiny frill to the collar of a blouse or be more ambitious with much wider frills in layers down a skirt. Frills around three quarter length sleeves add an interesting detail, or a contrast frill on the bottom of a plain top can transform it. Learn the technique to decorate your clothes for a clever update. CALCULATING THE FABRIC Frills can be made either from a single or double layer of fabric. They can be continuous or as a strip with hemmed ends. Once you've decided which sort of frill you would like to make, you can work how much fabric you'll need to cut. FRILL LENGTH Step one A frill should be about…

BACK WAIST LENGTH From the top of your spine at the base of your neck to your natural waist BUST Around the fullest part of your bust HIPS Around the fullest and widest part of your thighs and bottom HEIGHT Stand against a wall, barefoot, then measure from the top of your head to the floor HIGH BUST/CHEST Across the back, under your arms and above the bust WAIST Your natural waistline, around the slimmest part of your waist ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope…

UNIVERSAL A great multi-purpose needle which can be used for woven fabrics and has a slightly rounded point for stitching knit fabrics, too. BALL POINT This needle has a more rounded point than the universal needle so you won’t get snags, ladders or holes. Perfect for knit fabrics. JEANS A strong needle, ideal for stitching several layers of fabric or tightly woven fabrics like denims. SHARPS With a sharp point, these are for sewing very fine and delicate fabrics and neat buttonholes. LEATHER This needle’s wedge-shaped cutting point is used to work strong seams on non-woven fabrics like leather, suede and vinyl. STRETCH Designed for sewing two-way stretch knits such as lycra and silk jersey. It prevents skipped stitches on fine knit fabrics. QUILTING This will pierce multiple layers whilst…

DRAPE A term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. Different fabrics have different drape qualities. EASE The addition of extra fabric in a pattern to allow the finished garment to fit the body well. EDGESTITCH A row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, usually 2-3mm (1/16-1/8in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fabric edge neatly in place. FACING This pattern piece is cut separately to stabilise and create a neat finish on the edge of a garment, such as the neckline. FAT QUARTER A term used to describe a cut piece of fabric often used for patchwork projects, usually measuring 46x55cm (18x22in). FINISHING/NEATENING RAW EDGES This is done to stop the fabric edges, particularly of a seam,…

Thank you for making these projects from Simply Sewing. The copyright for these templates belongs to the designer of the project. They work hard to create projects for you to enjoy, so please don’t re-sell or distribute their work without permission. Please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Copyright law protects creative work and unauthorised copying is illegal. We appreciate your help.…