Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 16 i Simply Sewing

Spring has finally arrived and we’re looking for any excuse to take our me-mades outdoors! But it’s not all about frolicking around in pretty handmade dresses (as much as we love that), this month we’re championing more practical makes. Challenge blustery beach days (and unwanted skirt mishaps) with a stylish playsuit, treat your camera to a new case, get the kids playing plushie guitar in the garden or make a leather passport holder that’ll last a lifetime. Share your makes using # simplysewingmag…

Whether it’s a box of shiny new pins, a bundle of beautiful fabrics or even a brand-new sewing machine, we always feel a burst of creativity when we add to our sewing stash. So, just imagine the creative possibilities with this issue’s bumper bundle of sewing goodies, worth £409! One lucky winner will get a Janome Sewist 525S machine worth £269 (as spotted on the Great British Sewing Bee), a selection of sewing books including Freehand Fashion by GBSB’s Chinelo Bally, and a selection of must-have sewing tools. Enter today at www.simplysewingmag.com See www.simplysewingmag.com  to enter today! (UK only, see competition rules on p6.)…

DRESDEN CARNIVAL Yvette Marie Jones and Marian B. Gallian (C&T Publishing, £18.50) With 16 projects, four bonus variations and five colourways, this book has plenty to keep quilting fans busy. Its pages are packed with playful colour combinations and helpful quilting tips and tricks. www.ctpub.com POMPOMANIA Christine Leech (Quadrille Publishing, £9.99) Make as many pom poms as your heart desires with this fun book. The designs include tiny pandas and watermelon slices, with no fancy equipment needed. www.quadrille.co.uk SEWING HAPPINESS Sanae Ishida (Sasquatch Books, £14.99) Each of the 20 projects in this book have been designed to promote wellbeing, health and creativity. Visit www.simplysewingmag.com for Sanae’s origami pillow project from the book. www.sasquatchbooks.com SIMPLE TAILORING & ALTERATIONS J. Francois-Campbell (GMC Publications, £14.99) Acclaimed costumier J. Francois-Campbell’s book guides you through…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: small pouch 20x40cm (8x16in); medium pouch 25x40cm (10x16in); large pouch 30x40cm (12x16in) Lining fabric: small pouch 10x40cm (4x16in); medium pouch 15x40cm (6x16in); large pouch 20x40cm (10x16in) Foam: small pouch 10x40cm (4x16in); medium pouch 15x40cm (6x16in); large pouch 20x40cm (10x16in) 1.5mm (1/16in) round leather cord: black, 50cm (20in) Spring toggle: metal Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED The fabrics used are from Vacation by the Henley Studio Collection for Makower. For stockists visit www.makoweruk.com Doodle. Ref: 1656/Y. Cameras. Ref: 16521/1. Tonal Scooters. Ref: 1655/B. Foam: Style Vil from Vlieseline. For stockist information email crafts@stockistenquiries.co.uk or call 01453 883581. NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut the main fabric into the following: Base outer: 10cm (4in) diameter circle. Body outer: small pouch,…

YOU WILL NEED Lightweight woven fabric with a drape: 114cm (45in) width x 150cm (60in) Lightweight bias binding or knit iron-on stabilising tape: 12mm (½in) wide or lightweight iron-on interfacing: 50cm (20in) Matching thread Basic sewing kit FABRIC SUGGESTIONS Cotton lawn, viscose, silk twill, silk satin, polycotton, seersucker, cotton lawn, cheesecloth, sand-washed silk, cotton voile. NOTES • Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance throughout unless otherwise stated. A printed silk camisole adds a touch of individuality under a plain office jacket, while a sparkly sequin chiffon camisole worn with a pencil skirt or skinny jeans is the perfect party top. If you’re new to sewing, make your first one in a lovely cotton lawn before tackling silky fabrics. You can add some lace trimmings and wear as lingerie, and even…

YOU WILL NEED • T-shirt or top • Basic sewing kit Designer Jennie says: “Adding scallops to a nice top or T-shirt can make a simple garment look chic. Follow this tutorial and use it to refashion your tops again and again.” DRAWING THE PATTERN Step one Turn up the hem of your top by 5cm (2in) with right sides (RS) facing, pin and press into place.01 Step two It’s best to have an uneven number of scallops, so measure the length of your hem and divide this by five, seven or nine. This will give you the size of each scallop. For example, our top is 56cm across the front, so when this measurement is divided by seven each scallop will need to be 8cm. Step three Measure across…

YOU WILL NEED • Acrylic felt: assorted colour pack • Soft toy filling • Stranded cotton in assorted colours • Buttons: 7 pairs • Embroidery hoop: 25cm (10in) • Nylon cord: 5m (5½yds) NOTE • You will find the template needed to make this project on the pull out pattern sheet provided. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace and cut out the templates for the body, wing and beak. Pin the patterns to the felt and cut two bodies and two wings in each colour. Cut one beak per bird in either yellow or black felt. MAKING A BIRD Step one Stitch a line of backstitch down the centre of one wing shape.01 Step two From the centre, sew backstitches to create a feathered look.02 Step three Place the wing on…

YOU WILL NEED • Cotton fabric: see instructions • Scraps of fabric to decorate • Iron-on interfacing • Soft toy stuffing • Pipe cleaners: six • Large wooden beads: six • Basic sewing kit NOTES You will find the templates needed to make this project on the pull-out pattern sheet provided. CUTTING OUT Step one Start by drawing a pattern for your guitar shape. We used dinner and side plates to draw around to create the guitar shape, then drew the neck and head above this. Our finished guitar is 80cm (31in) long and 25cm (10in) wide. Add a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance all the way around then cut out the pattern. Step two Cut two pieces of cotton fabric using the pattern, one for the front of the guitar…

YOU WILL NEED • 2oz (1mm) leather: dark tan, 40x40cm (16x16in) • Thread: cream MATERIALS We used a sheep leather in dark tan. Find real leather in a variety of colours at www.fabricsforsale.co.uk. Prices start at £25 per skin. NOTES • Use the basic instructions from the previous page for choosing your materials and working with leather. • The templates needed to make this project are on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. CUTTING OUT THE PIECES Step one Trace the two pocket templates from the pattern sheet and cut them out. You’ll also need to draw a template for the main cover: 15x22cm (6x8¾in), and for the cash pocket 15x10cm (6x4in). Step two Place the leather right side (RS) down then place all four templates RS down…

SEAM RIPPER You’ll find this odd-looking tool invaluable for cutting through seams and removing stitches. The hook slips under the stitches while the sharp blade at the back cuts the thread. Replace it if it’s getting blunt – they’re cheap. MARKING TOOLS Tailor’s chalk and water- or air-erasable pens and pencils make pinning and tacking much easier as you can see where you’re meant to be sewing. They come in different colours to contrast with your fabric. ROTARY CUTTER If you want to get into patchwork or dressmaking, these make short work of cutting out a lot of fabric and pattern pieces. Always cut away from yourself as they are very sharp. You’ll need a cutting mat and special ruler to use these. PINS AND NEEDLES Indispensable stainless steel pins…

BACKSTITCH Use backstitch for a neat outline. Bring the needle up and take it back over the fabric, as shown. Push the needle back up in front of where you started, making sure you keep all the stitches neat and even. STEM STITCH With stem stitch, work from left to right, in regular small stitches along the line of the design. The thread always emerges on the left side of the previous stitch. This stitch is used for flower stems, outlines and so on. SATIN STITCH For filling in blocks of colour, satin stitch gives some stunning results. Follow the outline using straight stitches made very close together. You can neaten things with a backstitch around the outline before you start. FRENCH KNOT For a French knot, come up through…

“THIS WRAP DRESS was sewn last autumn for a blog post featuring a free add-on sleeve for our Kielo Wrap Dress pattern. I made it in a lovely organic cotton knit. Since the blog post, this garment has seen a lot of wear and is definitely one of my wardrobe staples! The Kielo is one of our bestselling patterns, probably because it’s such a simple style and relatively easy to make, but has an interesting shape and structure. The bold stripes make it even more extravagant, and since the jersey is quite stiff and has very little drape, it makes the shape of the dress very origami-like. The Kielo is a maxi-length dress, but with these wide stripes the midi length is much easier to wear and makes the dress…

As I write this letter, the hot topic of conversation in the office is the fourth series of The Great British Sewing Bee (rumoured to hit our TV screens in early May). There’s no denying that so far the show has brought sewing to a brand new audience and inspired many of its contestants to take their skills to the next level (see p40 to read more). So, to celebrate we’ve lined up a cute camisole pattern from the GBSB book for you to try at home (p50) and a bumper prize draw to enter - with a whopping £409 worth of prizes (p8). Keep in touch using #simplysewingmag…

LEARN YOUR ABC This illustrated card features a sewing item for every letter in the alphabet. Can you name them all? £2.50. www.beckagriffin.etsy.com BUTTON UP With its buttons and stitching, we’d like to keep this handmade card for ourselves. £4.95. www.lilianaliceltd. etsy.com RETRO HEXIES Treat a vintage fan to this colourful 1960s-inspired design for their birthday. The mini hexies are so cute! £2. www.little  teawagon.etsy.com MADE BY HAND Each card by The Print Bee is printed by hand, giving them a really charming and personal touch. £2.95. www.the  printbee.etsy.com SEW SWEET Let your favourite crafter know you’re thinking of them with this pretty design. £2.50. www. happyrose.etsy.com…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 7x65cm (2¾x255/8in) Lining fabric : 7x65cm (2¾x255/8in) Leather: tan, 6x12cm (23/8x4¾in) 40mm (15/8in) webbing: taupe, 65cm (255/8in) 1cm (3/8in) wide grosgrain ribbon: grey/white stripe, 70cm (28in) Sliders x 2: to fit the ribbon Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED The fabrics used are from Vacation by the Henley Studio Collection for Makower. For stockists visit www.makoweruk.com Main fabric: Cameras. Ref: 16521/1. Lining fabric: Doodle. Ref: 1656/Y. Leather: Sheep leather in dark tan. Prices starting at £25 per skin from www.fabricsforsale.co.uk Sliders: It can be tricky to find the small sliders needed for the ribbon that attaches the strap to the camera; we used sliders cut from a cat collar. NOTES • You will find the template needed to make this project on the pull-out pattern sheet…

YOU WILL NEED 1 fat quarter Mini pom poms Double fold bias binding: 2.5cm (1in) width x 2m (2¼ yd) Stranded cotton: to contrast with the pom poms Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. • You will find the template needed to make this project on the pull-out pattern sheet provided. FABRICS USED Mini Crayon from Secret Garden by Dashwood Studio. Available from www.purple-stitches.com Designer Jenny says: “These flags have been precisely measured so you can make ten little flags from one fat quarter of fabric.” MAKING THE BUNTING FLAGS Step one Fold your fat quarter in half lengthways with wrong sides (WS) together and then in lengthways again. Cut through the folds to make four equal strips. Step two Trace around the bunting template,…

Jane Foster got her first taste of textile design while she was at secondary school. “We had a great art teacher called Mrs Bruce and she encouraged me to try screen printing onto fabric as my work was very bold and I liked using flat colours,” Jane recalls. “I used simple paper cut stencils and screen printed a length of white cotton fabric that I then made into a pair of curtains for my boyfriend at the time! I couldn’t believe how exciting it was to actually design your own fabrics and T-shirts.” Around 15 years later, Devon-based Jane returned to “dabbling with screen printing” and rediscovered the joy of printing onto panels of fabric, then sewing it into cushions and bags. We’re very glad she did! VINTAGE INFLUENCES Since…

YOU WILL NEED • Cotton fabric: 75x112cm (30x44in), for the dress and bodice • Cotton fabric: contrast, 50x112cm (20x44in) for the wings. • Cotton fabric: contrast 50x112cm (20x44in) to line the wings (optional) • Assorted fabric scraps: for the spots • Bondaweb, for the spots: 30x40cm (12x16in) • Neoprene fabric or plain cotton: black, 10x20cm (4x8in), for the antennae • Soft toy filling • 2 buttons: for the eyes • Basic sewing kit NOTES • The templates needed to make this project are on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance throughout. This whimsical butterfly dress is great for little ones who love to dress up. The pattern provides a perfect block for more simple sundresses and tops, too. We’ve used bright…

Leather has a reputation for being tricky to work with, but it's easier than you might think. It can even be done on your sewing machine at home – just add the correct needle and presser foot for the job, and you'll be ready to get started! Practicing on a leather offcut before you start on the real thing is a must, as stitching holes are permanent on leather so you'll need to get it right first time. Once you feel confident, try a small project like this stylish passport wallet. Overleaf, we take you through the tools you'll need and how to master the technique for a neat finish, and show you how to make a topstitched leather passport wallet to take with you on your next adventure.…

YOU WILL NEED Fashion fabric (to make your top) A close fitting top from your wardrobe Tracing/pattern paper Curved ruler & square edge Basic sewing kit MATERIALS We used a fine linen chambray from www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk NOTES The top you select to use as your template should be the same size or smaller than the top you want to make, and it should fit you well in the neckline and shoulders. If the sleeves or body of your top are longer than you want your new one to be, then just fold them under in the first step. If it’s more closely fitted than you want your final top to be, add width and then draw new seam lines in step two. Designer Portia says: “In this month’s tutorial we show…

LISA COMFORT Lisa Comfort is the founder of Sew Over It, a sewing haven and fabric shop in London, and the designer of this issue’s Poppy Playsuit pattern. Lisa shares her tips for sewing with drapey fabrics on page 18, and her playsuit fabric picks on page 34. CLAIRE-LOUISE HARDIE Claire-Louise Hardie is the sewing producer for The Great British Sewing Bee. She is a theatrical costumier and runs a sewing school in North London. Turn to page 50 for Claire-Louise’s silk camisole top project from her GBSB book. JANE FOSTER Jane Foster is an illustrator, textile designer and author. Her work is in uenced by Scandinavian and British design from the 1950s and 60s. Take a peek at her latest designs on page 64, and try her quick lampshade…

Katey Jane Smith’s passion for the design process, from the initial sketches to the final product, is what inspired her to leave her print design career behind and set up her own clothing and accessories brand. Originally from Stroud in Gloucester, an area with a rich heritage of textile production, Katey was hooked on creating her own designs from a young age, and went on to study Textile Design for Fashion with Business Studies at the University of Brighton. After graduating she worked in London for a print studio, where “I freelanced with lots of international high end and high street brands. Most of my clients were in Los Angeles. I loved this work, however I longed to see every part of the design process.” After two years, she “took…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: 43.5x43.5cm (171/8x171/8in) Contrast fabric A: 32x32cm (125/8x125/8in) Contrast fabric B: 32x32cm (125/8x125/8in) Zip: white, 40cm (16in) Cushion pad: 40x40cm (16x16in) Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED The fabrics used are from Vacation by the Henley Studio Collection for Makower. For stockists visit www.makoweruk.com Main fabric: Sunglasses. Ref: 1654/Q. Contrast fabric A: Tonal Scooters. Ref: 1655/B. Contrast fabric B: Tonal Scooters. Ref: 1655/N. NOTES • Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Draw a diagonal line from the top right corner of the main fabric square to the opposite bottom left corner. Cut along this to make two triangles. Step two Repeat this to cut contrast fabric A and contrast fabric B into two triangles. JOININGTHETRIANGLES Step one Take one contrast fabric A triangle…

With its easy-to-wear loose fit and simple construction, The Poppy Playsuit pattern is ideal for beginners and is sure to become a summer wardrobe staple. Wear it with your favourite sandals for strolls in the park, days out at the beach, barbecues with friends – anywhere you want to keep cool, feel comfortable and show off your sewing skills! FABRIC SUGGESTIONS: Lightweight fabrics with lots of drape, such as rayon, crepe or silk. YOU WILL NEED Fabric: 2.5m (2¾yd) of either 115cm (45in) or 140cm (55in) width fabric Hook and eye Elastic: 7mm (¼in) wide x 1m (40in) Matching thread GETTING STARTED Start by taking your bust, waist and hip measurements. You will use these to work out which size you need to cut. When measuring yourself, try not to…

Be it a pretty blouse or simple cushion, we can’t resist adding embellishments to our projects – especially when spring is in full swing and colourful blooms are popping up everywhere to inspire us! We have fond memories of making daisy chains, so have stitched our own onto the neckline of a plain tee. We used white running stitch for the petals and yellow satin stitch for the centres to create a simple motif that can be sewn in an afternoon. Turn to page 47 for our satin stitch step-by-step, and practice stitching on an offcut before getting started on your tee.…

YOU WILL NEED Cotton fabrics: Main fabric: 40x114cm (16x44in) Pocket fabric: 20x114cm (8x44in Lining fabric: 30x65cm (12x26in) Medium weight iron-on interfacing: 70x90cm (28x35in) 2 zips: 36cm (14in) 2 swivel clips Basic sewing kit NOTES • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut the main fabric into the following pieces: bag front and bag back, two pieces 25.5x30.5cm (10x12in) each; bag strap, two pieces 4.5x110cm (1¾x43in) each. Step two Cut the pocket fabric into the following pieces: pocket front and pocket back, two pieces 18x30.5cm (7x12in) each; strap tabs, two pieces 5x5cm (2x2in) each. Step three Cut the lining fabric into the following pieces: bag lining, two pieces 25.5x30.5cm (10x12in) each. Step four Cut the interfacing into the following pieces: bag front and bag…

YOU WILL NEED • Flat-packed lampshade kit. This will contain everything you need (apart from your chosen fabric) and precise instructions. You can buy these online in huge a variety of shapes and sizes. FABRIC SUGGESTIONS To source Scandinavian fabrics, try Hus and Hem (www.husandhem.co. uk) or The Swedish Fabric Company (www.theswedishfabriccompany.com), which both specialise in Scandinavian designs. ATTACHING THE BACKING PANEL Step one Place the self-adhesive panel on top of your fabric, ensuring the fabric pattern is straight and in line with the edges of the panel. Cut the fabric 2.5cm (1in) larger all the way around. Step two Place the fabric right side (RS) down, with the self-adhesive panel on top. Peel back a little of the backing paper. Place the panel sticky side down on the fabric…

YOU WILL NEED • Cotton fabric: orange, 25x50cm (10x20in) • Cotton fabric: green, 25x25cm (10x10in) • Cotton fabric: white, 15x15cm(6x6in) • Cotton fabric: polka dot, 15x25cm (6x10in) • Check fabric: green, 20x16cm (8x6½in) • Felt: white, 3x6cm (1¼x23/8in) • Stiffened felt: black, one sheet • Bondaweb: 10x15cm (4x6in) • Stranded cotton: black and white • Soft toy stuffing • Elastic: 5mm (¼in) wide x 18cm (7in) • Paper straw • Box: large enough to fit the fox, approximately 20x25cm (8x10in) • Paper, streamers, wooden craft sticks and other decorations for the party box • Basic sewing kit NOTES • You will find the templates needed to make this project on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. • Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. CUTTING OUT…

Stitching with leather is simple to do – you'll just need to take your time, as there’s no room for mistakes because the stitches create a permanent hole in the leather. Leather can be stitched by hand, which requires a few tools and special thread and needles, but it can also be sewn with an ordinary sewing machine. You just need a little practice and a few tips to get you started. WHAT YOU’LL NEED  Leather: Leather, suede and nubuck are all sewn and worked with in the same way. Leather can be very stiff or more pliable and flexible, depending on its thickness. When you buy leather, its thickness is described in ounces or millimeters, so the lower the number, the thinner it is. You can find conversion charts…

YOU WILL NEED Blue jean scraps: in various colours Matching thread Soft toy stuffing Erasable pen Basic sewing kit NOTES Find the templates for this project on the pull-out pattern sheet provided with this issue. Trace and cut out to make petals and hearts. Use the leaf shape to draw different-sized leaves. MAKING THE ROSEBUDS (make 8) Use either the hem or waistband of your jeans. Step one Cut a strip about 10-15cm (4-6in). Step two Tuck one end of the strip down then wrap it on top and around for the centre. Step three Fold the strip top edge down to form a petal, then fold it back up again to form another as you wrap the strip around. Step four Carry on until you reach the end then…

Cushion pads are widely available either online or in your local craft shop. There are various shapes available, but one of the most popular is the standard square cushion pad. Cushion pads are filled with either a synthetic or feather filling, and tend to have a different feel to them. Feather filled pads have a more luxurious feel and are squashier to touch, while synthetic cushions tend to remain plump as they will ‘spring’ back into shape. They’re also better for those with allergies. Here’s a list of standard cushion pad sizes. Keep a note of them to help with future projects… STANDARD CUSHION PAD SIZES 30x30cm (12x12in) 35x35cm (14x14in) 40x40cm (16x16in) 45x45cm (18x18in) 50x50cm (20x20in) 55x55cm (22x22in) 60x60cm (24x24in)…

Step one Depending on the thickness of your fabric, you may need the help of a lightbox to help illuminate the design through the fabric. Or you can use a window and trace against it. Either way, tape the design securely in place. Step two Place your fabric in a ring frame with the right side of the fabric face down. Now turn the frame over so the right side of the fabric is face up and place the frame over the design so that it sits flush with the flat surface. Using a ring frame or ‘hoop’ helps to keep the fabric taut. Step three Check the fabric is square to the design and start to trace the design using a light blue coloured pencil or water soluble pen.…