Innholdsfortegnelse for Fall - Winter 2019 i SHOWDETAILS MEN

The term‘hemline index’ was coined by American economist George Taylor in 1926 to describe the way that skirt hemlines moved up and down according to economic trends, so shorter in boom time and longer during a downturn. It’s a theory that could be applied to various periods of history, such as the mini-skirt in the sixties and the long hippy skirts worn by the flower children in the ‘70s. But why does the theory apply solely to womenswear and not to menswear too? The latest menswear shows celebrated not only floor-skimming trouser legs but also a broader oversized and hyper-protective fashion with very little bare skin exposed. Some might say that is because it is winter, but actually the oversize trend has been going too strong for several seasons now,…

Punk proclaimed ‘no future’ but it seems the system, or at least the fashion system, has transformed its slogan into an evergreen style statement, even though some designers claim they have never used it as inspiration for their collections. Take Neil Barrett, who chose punk to celebrate the brand’s twentieth anniversary, offering a mix of all the movement’s characteristic styles, from military to school uniforms, leather biker jackets and trousers mixed with the British tailoring tradition, animal prints and faux fur. But punk is also about rock, which is the mother of all rebellions, and Sébastien Meunier for Ann Demeulemeester identifies it with the anarchy of the early ’80s, so less romanticism and more edgy looks, with bandanas around the head, oversize spider-web sweaters over slim tank tops, shirts and…

Al giorno d’oggi concedersi una digressione in ambito sartoriale non è più l’eccezione ma una regola che nella moda uomo si ripete ormai da stagioni come un mantra. E per questo giro Dolce & Gabbana non solo sceglie di restare nella più pura tradizione del tailoring ma gli dedica pure la collezione, portando il laboratorio artigianale in passerella e ispirandosi all’eleganza classica dei divi di un tempo. Si tratta di una chiara rifondazione del classico, con ovvi protagonisti cappotti, smoking e abiti mono e doppiopetto, che vanno da forme più strutturate alla fluidità di completi-pigiama e giacche o coat-vestaglia con cintura in vita. Propende fortemente verso il tecnico, il sartoriale del duo Notte/Vandebosch di Les Hommes, ma senza mai dimenticare, se non per pochi look, camicia bianca e cravatta che…

LONDON January 7, 2019 Sean Lehnhardt-Moore claims he has always been a fan of Belstaff, so to be appointed the brand’s creative director“is absolutely a blessing”, a dream come true. He added that, even though he was never a motorcyclist, his wardrobe is packed with vintage Belstaff pieces. Lehnhardt-Moore’s passion was evident in iconic pieces ranging from the black leather biker jacket to a shearling to a denim Trialmaster, along with down jackets, some sleeveless, a trench, a pea coat and a flared coat. These were worn with crew neck sweaters, turtlenecks, denim shirts, slim trousers and jeans with turnups tucked in or pooling over lace-up shoes or biker ankle boots with buckle. The colour palette was classic except for a splash of red on a double-layer technical hooded jacket.…

MILANO January 11, 2019 Canali also combined tailoring and informal wear, describing its collection as“a moment in time, gathering the essence of its flow, moving with conscious confidence between history and present day, between tradition and innovation”. So it was no wonder that classic pieces such as single and double-breasted coats and sharp suits were paired with turtlenecks, impalpable crew neck sweaters and down jackets of various lengths, while shiny lace-ups alternated with sneakers. The colour palette also combined different elements. Neutrals were teamed or alternated with red, blue, rust and lavender, while the more technical looks came in allblack, with turned-up jeans, zipped jackets and track pants. Traditional check, houndstooth and pinstripe were combined with the classic fabrics, while the logo was embossed on a black crew neck sweatshirt.…

PARIS January 16, 2019 Introducing the new men’s collection for Givenchy, Clare Waight Keller explained that she had gone back into the ’90s, when she and her peers were very young and didn’t have much money but still wanted to look cool, smart and‘sharp’ in a tailored suit, which was often worn with a shirt or T-shirt. There were also a lot of Seventies influences here too, with all those flared trousers and structured single and double-breasted jackets whose slim sleeves revealed the shirt cuffs beneath. Some trousers were looser on the thigh and narrower at the bottom, while others were slim all the way down the leg with an imaginary stirrup pulling them to either side of the shoes. Underneath were shirts and turtlenecks but also blouses with big…

MILANO January 12, 2019 As a Neapolitan brand of deluxe men’s tailoring made from high-quality materials, Kiton remains rooted to its tradition but its style has evolved to stay in step with the demands of its powerful, wealthy clients, which include heads of state and Silicon Valley CEOs. Who else could afford its exclusive vicuña blazers, made from the world’s most highly-prized fibre from the Andes high plains. Here, it was used to make relaxed tailored jackets paired with corduroy trousers with turn-ups for superluxurious comfort. A sense of relaxed elegance permeated the entire collection, which merged tailoring with sportswear. Hooded jackets looked sporty but were made of a precious cashmere yarn and paired with trousers that were a deluxe track pants hybrid. Come marchio legato alla sartoria maschile deluxe…

NEW YORK January 18, 2019 Who could these four guys featured in Stella McCartney’s latest collection be? As for her women’s pre-collection, the designer dedicated her new menswear show to Yellow Submarine, the psychedelic cartoon film made by the Beatles 50 years ago, which was recently remastered. And one of them featured in Pop Art style is, of course, her father, Paul. There were not only maxi portraits of the Fab Four but also patches, badges and embroideries on coats, shirts and cashmere sweaters, while colourful bands down trouser legs, a yellow coat and a beige coat provided other film references. Military-inspired pieces included many-pocketed jackets and camouflage motifs. As per the designer’s usual style, tailoring alternated or merged with sportswear and materials were exclusively eco-sustainable. Ma chi sono quei…

PARIS January 18, 2019 The Ungaro man moves between the‘rive gauche’ and ‘rive droite’, between art galleries, antique stops and luxurious apartment blocks. In tune with his surroundings, he is barely ever without his made-to-measure jacket, available in the show in a variety of patterned fabrics from smooth or corduroy velvet to wool or jersey, paired with floral or geometric shirts and tapered trousers, which here ranged from classic to sporty jeans with drawstring waist and elastic cuffs. The most casual pieces were V-neck or crew neck jacquard sweaters and two-way zipped cardigans featuring 3D mohair intarsia for an ethnic touch. Short coats in check motifs with a subtle vintage feel provided the tailoring. In general, this style brought together the two main arms of menswear, i.e. formal and casual,…

PARIS January 18, 2019 “Fashion is like rock music. There is no rock music without rebellion”. This is how Sébastien Meunier, the creative director of Ann Demeulemeester, summed up his latest collection for the Belgian brand, which was staged at the Palais de Tokyo while paying homage to the creative energy of the early 1980s when the Antwerp Six, which included Demeulemeester, first emerged. It was a slightly anarchic and very rock time, which Meunier translated into less romantic clothes than usual, abandoning the iconic black and white for bolder red, yellow and emerald green. Fluid shirts and wraparound coats worn over bare skin came un-tucked from lean anklelength trousers with side buttons at the hem, oversize spider web jumpers were paired with neutral tank tops, while coats and jackets…

PARIS January 20, 2019 Wherever he is working, Hedi Slimane puts his own uncompromising stamp on the brand, and that is also the case for Celine, which should perhaps be renamed simply Hedi. This was clear from the very first look in his debut menswear show for the brand - a black double-breasted suit with a white shirt, a slim black tie, trousers with turnups and lace-up ankle boots. The next 65 looks alternated formal with casual wear in more or less the same vein. Lots of black, slim ties, rocker footwear, and a myriad of outerwear ranging from leather biker jackets to shearling, tweed coats, animal print overcoats and parkas. Underneath, in addition to the almost ubiquitous white shirt, a crew neck sweater, an existentialist turtleneck or a Breton…

LONDON January 7, 2019 A man made of glass, which does not have to mean fragility. It can also mean strength. This is the concept of Craig Green’s collection along with a few references to religious clothing, medieval art and martial arts. Overcoats and suits in monochrome colours ranging from neutrals to turquoise, red and acid green resembled workwear but, perhaps nodding back to the glass concept, came in thin, light, smocked fabrics or with mesh and crochet insets joined together with straps and bands. Plastic-coated loose knits and trousers textured like fish scales were paired with plastic veils that concealed half the face with a large hood or covered it entirely. Sarah Mower got it right when she said they were not really clothes but “translucent windows on feelings”.…

MILANO January 12, 2019 The new Dolce & Gabbana collection paid homage to craftsmanship and tailoring, a point emphasised by the brand’s decision to stage a tailor’s workshop on the runway. This (re)definition of men’s formal dress codes began naturally with the classics, so there were single and double-breasted suits and long coats, dinner jackets, dressing gowns and pyjamas that alternated silk and velvet. Surfaces were printed with fountain pens and umbrellas, which alternated with the brand’s customary Sicilian Baroque religious motifs. Brocade and damask added shine while lamé gave a metallic sheen to jackets and overcoats. The few casual pieces included embroidered V-neck and crew neck sweaters, but all the glittery iridescence on most of the knitwear made it ideal for the evening too. La nuova collezione di Dolce…

MILANO January 14, 2019 Freeing up the metropolitan man to dress in mountain apparel gives king Giorgio an invaluable satisfaction, which is perhaps why he named this collection ‘Liberty’. The liberty to wear fur (eco-fur in line with the brand’s broader policy) over a jacket and tie or to choose soft, warm plush fabrics for formal suits. The liberty to wear a zipped velvet blouson over a classic shirt, a cloak over a blazer or a big red fringed scarf over a refined coatigan. Or to strap a backpack over an iridescent suit with technical or quilted trousers, to wear a sailor’s cap or balaclava on your head, or to wrap a furry stole around your neck and shoulders. In short, it was all about the freedom to make men’s…

MILANO February 20, 2019 “A mask is hollow but also full”. This is how Alessandro Michele enigmatically described the accessory worn with his Autumn/Winter 2019.20 collection. It was as disorienting as the pulsing lights and snarling lions on the soundtrack. Sharp shoulders and nipped waists harked back to the tailoring of the ’40s: patterned shirts were paired with sleeveless gilets and oversize trousers more or less tapered at the ankle; blazers were unfinished with basting stitches and dangling threads; coats with contrasting lapels alternated with snakeskin bombers decorated with large gold brooches with colourful stones. There was lots of layering of half-sleeved and long-sleeved shirts and other transparent ones: lace blouses revealed the pieces underneath and embroidered organza cloaks lightened the outfits. Aside from the masks, there were also other…

LONDON January 5, 2019 James Long for Iceberg showcased the radical transition from weekday office wear to mountain apparel for the weekend. But Long’s men populate an alternative kind of mountain, one that is pop and colourful, with Mickey Mouse featured on jumpers worn with drawstring track pants. All the sportswear, with an embedded twist of formal overcoats and suits featuring contrasting side bands on the sleeves, came in various combinations of outerwear, from the parka to the bomber to a vintage-style windbreaker covered with block logo lettering. Tracksuits also came in velour, while a new piece, the kilt, with contrasting pleats was perhaps Long’s attempt to shift the focus a little away from Milan. James Long per Iceberg racconta in passerella la transizione dei milanesi che nel week-end passano…

PARIS January 18, 2019 Junya Watanabe produced a wonderful surprise for his latest show, filling it with middle-aged or older men complete with silver hair, white beards and weathered cheekbones. The rule in fashion these days seems to be to do the utmost to please the very young, the Millennials and Centennials, but what about the more mature man? Even more surprising, the clothes were cool, meaning their sons will no doubt want to borrow them all. A slim blazer over a shirt worn outside the trousers, faded jeans with big turn-ups, hooded sweatshirts, a many-pocketed utilitarian jacket, and a striped sweater. And, naturally, whether it was a piece of outerwear or a pair of trousers, everything was a lived-in collage and worn as proudly as the faces and bodies…

MILANO January 12, 2019 The Les Hommes collection from creative duo Notte and Vandebosch as ever reflected the personality of its creators. This time, it was a clash of styles in which tailoring met the technical aspects of mountaineering accessories, colours and materials. Suits and overcoats were worn with windbreakers, down jackets and sporty knits, such as the ones designed in collaboration with Sergio Tacchini - a partnership that has created some eyecatching black and neon combinations. As for the details, classic trousers had contrasting side bands and sometimes a drawstring waist, branded belts resembled trekking straps, outerwear was thick and padded, neon anoraks were paired with a shirt and tie, hooded sweatshirts with oversize sweaters in jacquard designs were made to match the maxi scarves. Chunky sneakers and mountain…

MILANO January 12, 2019 An abandoned amusement park with a spooky atmosphere but still a certain appeal. This is the idea Marcelo Burlon used for his new collection packed with neon flashes, animal touches and glitter. The designer’s signature black was illuminated with fluorescent camouflage and denim was sprayed with acid zebra tones, while colourful stripes decorated knits, cardigans and shirts. Zipped sweatshirts and cropped tops were worn under bombers, blazers and blousons, teamed with slim to oversize trousers with a chain hanging from the belt. Classic track pants with side bands also came in camouflage and psychedelic patterns. Beanies, mask glasses, bumbags and sneakers completed the look, which would be ideal for a slightly melancholy rave party. Un parco di divertimenti abbandonato da cui deriva una certa atmosfera spettrale…

MILANO January 13, 2019 Ready, steady, go. Racing cars might not be the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of MSGM, but Massimo Giorgetti explains that his inspiration was more the concept of the world moving at breakneck speed. Baseball caps and T-shirts emblazoned with the word‘turbo’ were a reference to today’s society that seems to run as fast as Formula One. The sport featured constantly on various pieces, from trousers with contrasting patches on the knees to eco-leather pants with side bands, from flames printed on hems or all-over on suits, jackets and shirts, to slogans such as‘More Speed’ and ‘Run Away’ on oversize sweaters. Classic pieces were also embellished with themed motifs, while the football manga series, ‘Captain Tsubasa’, provided other black and white prints more…

PARIS January 16, 2019 In calling this Off-White show‘Public Television’, Virgil Abloh was referring to the barrage of adverts and images bombarding us every day and shaping our vision of the world. But Abloh kept it very subliminal, preferring to channel the influence with his own‘shrewd’ marketing and with the fact that how you convey the message is more important than the message itself. This allowed the designer to do what he does best (which seems to be everything), i.e. streetwear mixed with tailoring, which translated into sweatshirts, T-shirts, jeans and jumpsuits, with blazers, suits and coats – all oversize of course. It was a reiteration of very similar looks, which shared details such as maxi labels stitched onto the sleeves of jackets, pocket patches added to often quilted surfaces,…

MILANO January 11, 2019 Philipp Plein remembers his first show in Milan in 2009. A decade after the event, which the designer recalls with relish despite the hard times back then, Plein showed at Palazzo Clerici which, with its stucco and frescos, contrasts and emphasises this collection’s tech-streetwear style. It included extra-long down jackets with contrasting lining topped with a skull logo, worn with tailored outfits and tracksuits and solid, Swarovski-encrusted sneakers. The T-shirts in various colours worn under outerwear, blazers and sweatshirts featuring Tony Montana from‘Scarface’ came from a‘see-now-buy-now’ capsule collection launched with the rest of the collection. Given the repetition in the looks, the focus was on decoration: camouflage, animal, skulls, glossy effects, glitter and lots of logos, including seasonal logos from past shows, because an anniversary is…

PARIS June 20, 2018 “Too many hoodies with prints!” says Raf Simons, declaring war on streetwear. His show, staged at a warehouse in a Parisian suburb, expressed all the desire of a return not just of the understatement of tailoring but also its haute couture side, with references to Yves Saint Laurent and his own experience at Dior. The duchesse satin used in couture womenswear turned up in coats and blazers with broad sloping shoulders, in some cases dotted with metal round studs, in colours ranging from ice to neon pink. There was a clear late-’70s/early-’80s New Wave taste represented by shots of punk nights on asymmetric and/or deconstructed T-shirts and oversize high-neck jumpers in lurex. Little silver hoops and minuscule diamonds set here and there recalled piercings and safety…

PARIS January 16, 2019 What happens when two creative geniuses meet? The new Valentino collection could provide an answer. Pier Paolo Piccioli met Jun Takahashi of Undercover last year in Tokyo at an exhibition on the long-standing Italian brand and the two decided to collaborate. The resulting show is a new Valentino-Undercover ‘creature’, which also appears as a logo on some of the clothes. Mainly classic pieces were integrated with sportswear because Piccioli is convinced that streetwear is not going out of fashion any time soon. Outerwear and suits featured fluid tailoring, but even the sweatshirts, jumpers and technical trousers were comfortable and worn with sneakers. Everything bore prints by Takahashi, inspired by Edgar Allan Poe, with portraits, spaceships and skulls containing both brands’ logos, often in contrasting colours. Cosa…

FIRENZE January 9, 2019 The new collection from Belgian designer Glenn Martens was staged in the beautiful cloister of Santa Maria Novella in Florence, in cavernous darkness illuminated only by the torches handed to the audience and the flashes from the cameras. Perhaps to offset the shadowy atmosphere of the location, Martens chose oversize volumes, layering and pale colours with a few touches of red, creating a good balance of tailoring and sporty that was openly genderless. Comfortable jacquard jumpers were worn over checked shirts or jackets and paired with loose trousers or thighhigh boots. Long fringed scarves with carpet designs fell over the shoulders of overcoats or were tied like sashes at the waist. Blazers and outerwear had unusual lapels, with one corner fastened with a button. The little…

HEAD OFFICE (except Italy) AIE S.R.L. Via Manzoni, 12 20089 Rozzano (MI) Italy Tel. +39 02 5753911 Fax +39 02 57512606 info@aie-mag.com www.aie-mag.com ARGENTINA AIE S.R.L. Tel. +39 02 5753911 Fax +39 02 57512606 info@aie-mag.com www.aie-mag.com AUSTRALIA EIGHT POINT DISTRIBUTION PTY. LTD. Unit 5, 20 Narabang Way NSW 2085 Belrose Tel. +61 2 99862359 andrew@eightpointdistribution.com.au www.eightpointdistribution.com.au AUSTRIA PGV AUSTRIA TRUNK GMBH St. Leonharder Strasse 10 5081 Anif/Salzburg Tel. +43 62 468825233 Fax +43 62 46882775233 angelika.dygruber@pgvaustria.at www.pgvaustria.at BAHRAIN AIE S.R.L. Tel. +39 02 5753911 Fax +39 02 57512606 info@aie-mag.com www.aie-mag.com BELGIUM AIE S.R.L. Tel. +39 02 5753911 Fax +39 02 57512606 info@aie-mag.com www.aie-mag.com MODE… INFORMATION BELGIUM BVBA Baarledorpstraat 92 9031 Gent Tel. +32 9 2244387 Fax +32 9 2244395 info@modeinfo.be www.modeinfo.be BRAZIL B. AND WHITE REVISTAS IMPORTADAS Rua Sheldon, 78…

Exaggerated volumes always recall the shabby clown figure. Like Marni’s rebel, which made oversize his style manifesto with drastically outsize overcoats, suits, jumpers and trousers, extra-long sleeves, protruding edges, and frayed hems trampled by enormous shoes. Layering and clashing colours, added to the untidy look, increased the voluminous effect even further. There were lots of XL pieces in the ‘bel’ Ami show, which featured an haute-bourgeoisie heir, choosing oversized tailoring sometimes worn over a bare chest and teamed with a maxi scarf that almost reached to the floor. Ultra-comfortable jumpers and shirts, with sleeves covering the hands, were worn half untucked in loose, low crotch trousers puddling over the shoes. If Virgil Abloh thinks clothes must in some way convey the depths of the soul, then they have to be…

La ‘teoria dell’orlo’ fu coniata dall’economista americano George Taylor nel 1926 e suggeriva che gli orli delle gonne si regolassero in base all’andamento dell’economia quindi, orli corti in periodi favorevoli e orli lunghi nelle fasi di crisi. Una teoria che ha trovato riscontro in diverse epoche storiche, basti pensare che la mini-gonna è esplosa nei Sixties e che i gonnelloni hippie hanno coperto le gambe di tante figlie dei fiori nei ’70. Ma perché ciò che vale per la moda femminile non può essere valido anche per quella maschile? Le ultime passerelle del menswear hanno celebrato non solo orli dei pantaloni al pavimento ma in generale una moda oversize e iperprotettiva, con pochissimi centimetri di pelle esposta. Una gran voglia di coprirsi, non c’è dubbio, e qualcuno potrà obiettare che…

Il punk proclamava ‘no future’ ma pare che il sistema, almeno quello della moda, abbia trasformato il suo slogan in un elemento stilistico sempreverde, seppur tra i designer ci sia chi dice di non averlo mai usato come ispirazione per le proprie collezioni. Come Neil Barrett, che sceglie proprio il punk per celebrare il ventesimo anniversario del marchio, sciorinando un mix di tutti gli stili caratteristici del movimento, dal militare alle divise scolastiche alla pelle dei giubbotti e dei pantaloni da biker, miscelati con la tradizione sartoriale british, a sua volta corredata da animalier ed eco-pelliccia. Ma il punk è anche rock, che è la madre di tutte le ribellioni, e Sébastien Meunier per Ann Demeulemeester lo identifica con l’anarchia dei primi anni ’80, quindi meno romanticismo e più look…

MILANO January 12, 2019 New season, new designer for Brioni, which has appointed Norbert Stumpfl following Nina-Maria Nitsche’s exit. Stumpfl, who previously worked with Haider Ackermann at Berluti, cannot conceal his excitement for his new role, enthusing about the“spectacular fabrics” he now gets to work with. These fabrics took shape on impeccable outerwear, such as a precious cashmere camel coat, leather and suede used for shirts and trousers, Japanese denim for more shirts and jeans, and more cashmere for paisley-printed silk-lined blazers. Everything was about teaming formal and casual, so impeccable suits were styled with sneakers and thin crew neck sweaters or turtlenecks and track pants were paired with a luxurious coat. The evening wear included a salmon pink velvet jacket and a Fred Astaire-style tailcoat. Nuova stagione e nuovo…

MILANO January 13, 2019 The A/W 2019.20 collection from D.A. targeted a man who likes to change his look at any time of the day. From a flocked camouflage pea coat with skulls and flock checks with flowers to quilted in glossy patterned fabrics, from a military parka with fur collar to a baroque-style patterned shirt. Colours for daywear ranged from white to black, red to green. Suits for the evening came in glossy, solid and damask fabrics with gold-coloured insets, and lapels in lace, sequins and floral satin; underneath, shirts with dinner jacket collars and new long, lean bow ties or T-shirts with silver decorations. Footwear included double-buckle shiny shoes for the evening and chunky sneakers with walking boot laces. La collezione A/I 2019.20 D.A. si rivolge ad un…

MILANO January 12, 2019 Made in Italy is the key word at Grey Daniele Alessandrini, which offered refined, elegant clothes for the man who loves quality and attention to detail. The collection teamed smart day suits with dinner jackets for the evening. Single and double-breasted coats of various lengths were embellished with colourful, detachable fur collars, single and doublebreasted jackets had voluminous lapels in checked and woven fabrics with slim lines. There were also turtlenecks, cardigans with chains – in mustard, purple and camel colours – slim shirts with woven fabrics and classic collars. The finale included dinner jackets worn with a rounded gilet and chain, classic shiny shoes with or without laces, plus more casual, colourful or dirty suede shoes. Made in Italy è la parola chiave della collezione…

MILANO January 12, 2019 Missoni’s presentation took place in its large white showroom, in which sculptures by the Swedish-Chilean artist Anton Alvarez had been installed. These were made using an enormous machine that, like a big toothpaste tube, squeezes out ceramic paste into various tubular shapes. The clothes chimed with the artist’s aesthetic, primarily the tonal dégradés of the suits and coats that echoed Alvarez’s vibrant colour palette, but also the design of some of the knitwear, which was decorated with more dégradé abstract motifs, while the wavy shapes of the sculptures were reflected in the hand-embroidery on one high-necked chunky sweater. Everything was paired with high-waist tapered trousers in soft yet eyecatching colours. The lamé dinner jackets inspired by the ’70s diverged from the style but came in the…

MILANO January 13, 2019 “Techno-tailoring” is how Andrea Incontri defined his latest work for Tod’s, which aimed to capture the fluidity of our times in the men’s wardrobe. And while the brand is not known for its tailoring, its urban and sporty pieces are definitely cut with precision and elegance: down jackets were made from eco-sustainable ‘Waterborne’ fabric, which felt as soft as leather, as well as parkas, trenches and, naturally, coats and blazers. Velvet proved to be the material of choice for the Italian brand, which used it for overcoats, suits and trousers in eye-catching tints such as bright blue. A workwear influence added details such as pockets and zips to blazers but, as ever, the real focus of the collection was the accessories - bags and backpacks in…

PARIS January 17, 2019 Zadig & Voltaire brought back rocker style, reflecting its image of a man permanently on tour but assembling his look with a touch of the dandy. So a coat was worn over a red and black jumper similar to Kurt Cobain’s or a simple T-shirt. A checked lumberjack shirt, another reference to the Nirvana singer and to grunge in general, or a hooded sweatshirt appeared under a blazer. The trouser of choice was, of course, jeans, which came in white with fringed hems or in black or grey and paired with suede pointed ankle boots, combat boots with a contrasting red stripe down the zip and sneakers. These were styled with leather biker jackets, while check scarves and bandanas around the neck added further rock touches.…

PARIS January 18, 2019 ‘You only know my name, not my story.’ ‘Your comments I don’t mind.’ ‘Hate with passion is love.’ ‘Don’t put your blame on me.’ ‘I’m under no obligation to reply’. Olivier Rousteing featured these statements on shirts, knits and T-shirts not as mere decorations but as messages to his detractors and to those who criticise and comment just for the sake of picking a fight. Rousteing continued his own personal crusade in a succession of glossy looks ranging from velvet dinner jackets to bouclé jackets, some in a biker version, worn with low crotch or skinny trousers or track pants with side bands. The almost total domination of black and white was interrupted by blue denim, which was paired in a series of looks with leather,…

LONDON January 6, 2019 “If you are a creative you have to pretend-you have to create imagined worlds all the time,” said Hussein Chalayan, introducing his latest collection, which plays effectively with imagination pushed to the limits. Here it included skiing, seen in the neon-tinted lips and trousers slashed at the knee, Anglo equestrian, with Wellington boots teamed with micro-check tailoring and/or blazers, and fetish, with straps around shirt sleeves and knit collars. Everything showed off the designer’s masterful technique, which is certainly not imaginary but tangible and real: gilets and inverted-V collars built into outerwear, fabric bands running down trouser legs, knits and shirts with protruding chest detailing that created an optical illusion linked to the imaginative theme of the collection. “Se sei un creativo devi fingere: devi creare…

MILANO January 13, 2019 Celebrating its 125th anniversary, Daks brought its signature Britishness to the runway, drawing inspiration from the novel and film adaptation, ‘The Remains of the Day’. Misty yet elegant afternoons in the English countryside were the backdrop for a collection that focused on Daks’ anniversary check for outerwear and suits. Other classic British motifs also made an appearance, from Glen plaid to herringbone, up to argyle, which was used for jumpers in an especially soft and cosy mohair. Sharp jackets were worn over a shirt, tie and waistcoat or a more casual turtleneck. Trousers were mostly classic or else jodhpur style, paired with flat laceups or riding boots. Flat caps and top-hats completed the look. Per i 125 anni dalla fondazione, Daks non può che far sfilare…

PARIS January 17, 2019 The show notes spoke of a“view on tailoring for the next generation” and“a step back from nonchalance and sportswear”. The new Dries Van Noten collection contained no sneakers, sweatshirts, side bands or anything that has dominated the menswear shows for a few seasons. Instead, there were lots of smart overcoats with or without a belt, tailored suits with structured jackets worn mainly over bare skin and loose trousers paired with classic lace-ups or ankle boots. Into this sea of classic dressing, the designer threw a burst of tie-dye, either all-over or asymmetric, which took over surfaces in increasingly bold colours before bursting into an explosion of psychedelic patterns in the finale. Other eye-catching pieces were the woollen blankets worn around the waist like a skirt and…

MILANO January 11, 2019 A meeting point of people, but also of cultures and races - the station perfectly embodies a melting pot and a connection, which makes Milan’s spectacular soaring atrium the ideal location for a fashion show, though it has never been used for fashion until now. Alessandro Sartori chose it for his latest Ermenegildo Zegna show and his commuters wore clothes that conveyed the idea of travel, whether short or long. The system Sartori used to build the collection was modular, interchangeable and layered. Some jumpers had detachable collars, some trousers came with elastic hems and some had three adjustable straps on the leg, many practical accessories came in the form of travel bags and velvet baseball caps. Sweatshirts and overcoats featured raised embroidery in the shape…

PARIS January 19, 2019 The Mobilier National, the French government archive of state furniture, was the backdrop for the new Hermès collection, whose measured luxury returned to the runway like a hushed mantra. If there is one theme for Véronique Nichanian, the brand’s longstanding creative director, it is perhaps timeless elegance and sharp tailoring merged almost impalpably with casual wear. Clean and understated, this Hermès man’s style was made up of single and double-breasted coats, formal suits with a slightly longer jacket and delicately carrotcut trousers, shirts and high neck sweaters in extra-fine cashmere in various colours. The surfaces featured delicate patterns ranging from flames to solid geometry, up to jacquard or silver finishes. As per the brand’s tradition, there was plenty of leather wear, some of which came in…

PARIS January 18, 2019 Many designers are exploring the meaning and evolution of tailoring and how it can be translated into clothes. Lucie and Luke Meier’s take on it for Jil Sander is a question of attitude, of how you want to wear a certain garment. It is certainly not about being rigid or constrictive. At the risk of looking a little surgical, the Sander man’s latest silhouette was very clean and vertical with all the clothes following the same lines, from the single and double-breasted overcoats to the suits, which had little zips on the trousers above the knee in one of the few concessions to decoration in the collection. All the long striped shirts, oversize jumpsuits and zipped jackets in neutral, pale colours were like a series of…

PARIS January 16, 2019 A Northern Irishman with a brand based in London and shows in Paris. Jonathan Anderson is feeling the pain of Brexit approaching, with everything that it will bring for those running an international business like him. It is chaos. The designer brought some of the chaos to this collection, which he called“romantic in a sinister light”, with its ironic yet profoundly philosophical style. The looks on the runway were a metaphor of the divisions between community and national identity, a sort of Tower of Babel in which pieces were layered over one another, ranging from ribbed Medieval hoods descending over the shoulders to extravagant, mismatched shoes resembling Theresa May’s leopard-spot-patterned heels. In between there was a bit of everything: work shirts topped with big plush collars,…

PARIS January 17, 2018 “Why are we making clothes? This is menswear-but what makes men?”. In a philosophical mood, Virgil Abloh staged a reflection on humanity using beautiful clothes with a depth that came from layering jackets of various lengths, and not necessarily wearing the shortest on the bottom; if anything a blazer was more often seen on top of a flared overcoat, almost turning it into a skirt, or a big sleeveless down jacket over a jacket, all in the same shade of grey. Everything was oversized, including outerwear, tops and trousers, which were loose and had hems split over solid sneakers. There were plenty of different luxurious fabrications and techniques: embossed military cuffs and bands, semi-sheer rococo prints, graphic houndstooth, and flag prints that nodded both to the…

MILANO January 12, 2019 “They’re dishevelled, disassembled, they are Les Enfants Terribles du Paradis.” This is how Francesco Risso excitedly and tenderly described his Marni men, referring to emerging neo-tribes using their extravagance to fight the conservative society that is destroying our planet. Perhaps that is why everything in the show was drastically oversized, why suits, jackets, cassocks and trousers had extra-long sleeves trailing on the floor and hem flaps hung out everywhere, because these individuals are the clowns parodying the bourgeois dress code. They wore irreverent felted jumpers, multi-coloured shirts under soft pyjamas, maxi scarves touching the ground, night caps and plush gloves. The looks were constructed in layers, with clashing styles and colours in an endless divertissement. “Sono disordinati, disassemblati, sono ‘Les Enfants Terribles du Paradis’”. I suoi…

MILANO January 14, 2019 ‘Querelle’ was Fassbinder’s last film before his untimely death in 1982. Alessandro Dell’Acqua, a film-lover and fan of the German director’s, drew inspiration from the controversial film, which still has something to say about male fragility and sexual ambiguity, showcasing a delicate interpretation of the film and of the men’s wardrobe for N°21. Blazers, cardigans and coats were worn over layered lownecked tank tops, exposing metallic chokers on bare skin, trousers were tapered and highwaist in classic fabrics or glossy vinyl to match the ankle boots. In general the style was clean and minimal with just a few eccentric touches, such as a lace shirt or animal coat. A few sailor references, like striped sweaters, jumpers decorated with anchors, duffle coats and sacks carried over one…

MILANO January 14, 2019 “An era of extreme feelings” translated into clothes. On this third collection for Pal Zileri, Rocco Iannone drew on Aesop’s Fables to express today’s polarized opinions, creating a slightly surreal atmosphere in which references to ancient Greece, such as dolphins and peacock feathers on blazers, knits, trousers and coats, including some raised mosaic effects, appeared alongside leather inlays on parkas to highlight the pockets. Outerwear, the strong point of the collection, came with fauna-mimicking grooves or zebra camouflage, but also came in classic single and double-breasted versions with a brooch on the lapel. There was minimal use of the logo so as not to interrupt the enchantment of this fairy-tale that sought to dampen down the extreme feelings in our everyday lives. “Un’era di sentimenti estremi”…

MILANO January 13, 2019 The weak, the rejected, those who will never have a career - in short, the more delicate and naked aspects of humanity - were put on show by Prada alongside references to trashy horror movies like‘Frankenstein’ and‘The Rocky Horror Picture Show’, just to keep it light. Illuminated by 120 oversize light bulbs, the men on the runway wore classic suits and coats in black, grey or pinstripe, but the jacket was often worn over bare skin and multiple belts of various widths were cinched at the waist. Dark monochrome looks then gave way to pop prints and designs of lightning bolts and broken hearts on shirts and chunky sweaters tucked into high-waist trousers, while felt heart badges were safety-pinned to jumpers and shiny jackets in the…

PARIS January 17, 2019 Moving away from clothes for climate refugees and the associated constructions and wrappings, Rick Owens dives headlong into glam rock driven by his lifelong interest in Larry LeGaspi, the subversive American designer who designed costumes for Kiss, LaBelle, Divine and Grace Jones in the ’70s. We could call it a tribute from one designer to another, but it was also a metaphor for a troubled genius all vice, lust, dissipation and decline. The guys on the runway had the same ruffled, frisky look about them - long, untidy hair, skinny, pale torsos emphasised by thin jersey tank tops, oily high-waist skinny jeans or oversize trousers with contrasting insets down the leg. On top, they wore collarless eco-fur coats, extra-long down jackets, cropped shearling coats with long…

MILANO January 12, 2019 The first Versace men’s show since the brand was acquired by Michael Kors Holdings stayed resoundingly close to the brand’s tradition. If anything, the clothes on the runway further underlined the bondage iconography that Gianni had such fun with in the early ’90s. Firstly, there was lots of black leather and harnesses were printed onto T-shirts and silk shirts, some in sinful red, while knits and coats were decorated with safety pins. Secondly, there were lots of logos, some used alongside Ford branding in pop colours on outerwear, neon feathers used to trim blazers, other iconic all-over prints on tracksuits, boxer shorts peeking out from under trousers, little gold chains and necklaces. All of it accessorised everything, even the outfits with black blazers in the finale.…

PARIS January 17, 2019 Yohji Yamamoto’s collections are and always will be mirrors of personal aspects of his life, passions and fears. He rarely draws inspiration from a specific character or time period and his latest offering is no different, reflecting this time on his world, society and the work of himself and his colleagues. Adding army pieces and details, for example, showcases the designer’s passion for military apparel, as seen in loose trousers tucked into lace-up combat boots, single and double-breasted soldier coats and jackets with buttons ranging from little gold ones to large ones in the shape of scorpions, lions and eagles, complete with hanging strings. There were also duffle coat closures, silken threads dangling in spidery shapes off some of the clothes, and shaded designs and ideograms.…

These days, digressing into tailoring is no longer the exception but the rule, which is repeated in menswear every season like a mantra. And this time around, Dolce & Gabbana chose not only to stick to the purest tailoring tradition but dedicated its entire collection to it, bringing the workshop to the runway and drawing inspiration from the classic elegance of the stars of yesteryear. It was a clear restating of the classics, with an obvious focus on coats, dinner jackets and single and double-breasted suits, which ranged from structured to fluid pyjama-suits and wraparound coats and jackets with belted waist. The tailoring from Notte/Vandebosch at Les Hommes leant towards the technical but, with just a few exceptions, it always came with a white shirt and tie appearing from anoraks…

I volumi esagerati fanno sempre un po’ pensare a un uomo-clown, disordinato e trasandato. Come il ribelle di Marni, che dell’oversize fa quasi un manifesto di stile, con soprabiti, completi, maglioni, pantaloni drasticamente fuori misura, con maniche extralong, lembi che fanno capolino, orli sbrindellati e calpestati da scarpe enormi. Le stratificazioni e i colori che fanno a pugni aggiungono ulteriore disordine, aumentando anche l’effetto voluminoso. Tanti i capi XL nel guardaroba del bel Ami, rampollo di famiglia alto-borghese che sceglie la sartoria sovradimensionata, anche se poi capita che la porti sul petto nudo, abbinata a una maxi-sciarpa che arriva quasi al pavimento. Ultra-comodi anche i maglioni e le camicie, con le maniche che nascondono le mani, indossati un po’ dentro e un po’ fuori i pantaloni ampi, dal cavallo basso,…

LONDON January 5, 2019 Angelo Van Mol, the new creative director at Band of Outsiders, presented his new collection in a small East London boutique. The setting and clothes had a ’60s and ’70s era twist, inspiration coming from the moon landing beamed into living rooms in 1969. The clothes were mainly regular casual wear, velvet outerwear, checked blazers and overcoats, striped knits but also tracksuits-all worn with lace-ups. Some pieces were embellished with themed motifs, such as rockets or black and white photographic prints of the event, or featured colourful vertical stripes that may have represented the tracks left by the spacecraft and added a little flair to the collection, alongside pompom hats and big logo scarves. Angelo Van Mol, nuovo direttore creativo di Band of Outsiders, presenta la…

MILANO January 12, 2019 Entitled ‘Gentleman at ease’, the new Brunello Cucinelli collection was an ode to the designer’s signature relaxed elegance with a touch of precision. Although Cucinelli does not normally indulge in retro references, here he looked to Marlon Brando’s nonchalance, which is perfect for conveying that idea of relaxed comfort. Perhaps that is why two of the preferred fabrics in the collection were corduroy and moleskin, as seen in a tailored three-piece suit in a deep shade of bordeaux and a brown suit worn with a V-neck sweater and striped shirt. There was more relaxation in the high-necked jumpers and striped turtlenecks and crew necks often worn under blazers that were a little more comfortable than usual. Men’s wardrobe staples such as tracksuits and track pants also…

MILANO January 13, 2019 The new Etro collection was like an eyecatching mix of fantasy and reality. The former was covered by the fairy-tale embellishments, and the latter by the materials, some of which were recycled and others made using ecological fibres and sustainable dyes. But what about the clothes? They drew a line between the two aforementioned aspects, providing the physical space where the two could meet. There were zipped blousons, coats, blazers and parkas but also suits covered with vivid floral motifs accompanied by magical woodland creatures, such as fairies, fauns or dragons and unicorns, or even alchemical symbols. Shirts, classic or with a mandarin collar, and sweaters also featured floral patterns and prints of imaginary creatures, emphasised by bright colours and often glossy effects. The ecological fibres…

PARIS January 20, 2019 Simon Porte Jacquemus’s collections are often infused with a youthful romanticism. His previous work evoked the beaches of Marseille and this one looked to rural life in the hills around Montpellier. The designer comes from a countryside home and the young men in the presentation represented the farm workers, bakers and village kids he grew up alongside. They wore clothes that harked back to traditional French workwear, comfortable “real” clothes, in wool and cotton, matching cassocks and trousers filled with pockets, chunky sweaters, rustic shirts and technical gilets. Some of the pieces were decorated with rural scenes, such as a windmill, sheaves of corn and sprigs of rosemary. For festival days, there were also soft, relaxed suits in earthy countryside yellows. Le collezioni di Simon Porte…

MILANO January 12, 2019 Vogue describes Ralph Lauren Purple Label as “the apex of American sartorial finery”. Creative director John Wrazej dipped into the archives for an equestrian theme, which has always been dear to the brand but less used in past collections. So a navy duffle coat had stirrups and bits on the sleeves and a pair of jeans were given the same treatment, while a zipped suede jacket had themed decorations on the hems and sleeves. Yet the collection was not entirely focused on horse-riding; there was a series of single and double-breasted velvet or wool suits and some ski outfits with down jackets and high-necked jumpers. The evening looks included a purple dinner suit and a tartan jacket or trousers. “L’apice della raffinatezza sartoriale americana”, così viene…

MILANO January 15, 2019 Tom Ford’s latest collection featured plenty of seduction in shades of glinting black and ice, confirming his fondness for glossy luxury, although the silhouette was a little more covered up and protected than usual. The focus was on ultra-elegant outerwear worn with black leather gloves: a jacket paired with a zipped sweatshirt with fine vertical ribbing or a turtleneck, a hooded down jacket with a big front pocket and side fastening in an eye-catching copper tint, shiny parkas and trenches, coats with straps sewn across the back of collars, leather jackets sometimes worn with matching slim trousers. Flat caps and sunglasses maintained that allure of mysterious yet very glam charm that always surrounds the Ford man. Quando si tratta di rappresentare lusso Alto tasso di seduzione…

PARIS January 17, 2019 ‘Oversize’ is proving to be a key word this season. Alexandre Mattiussi adopted it for Ami, whose style is rooted is Parisian iconography and French menswear. He stuck to this code for the new collection, except perhaps for the inspiration from mid-20th century’s Paris cultural society, “an homage to the bourgeoisie”, as the designer put it. The show depicted wealthy young Parisians going for tea with their grandmothers whilst planning big nights out, which is perhaps why they wore oversize coats over bare skin and a long scarf almost touching the ground. The volumized tailoring alternated with comfortable jumpers with extra-long sleeves over shirts and hooded sweatshirts, while trousers were mostly classic in various fits. Wide-brimmed hats were also oversized. ‘Oversize’ pare una delle parole chiave…

LONDON February 17, 2019 “Tempest” is the title of the Autumn/Winter 2019.20 collection by Riccardo Tisci who, a year since his appointment as the brand’s creative director, drew inspiration from the contrasts in British culture and weather while continuing to build on the work done at last year’s debut. The Burberry boys wore trenches made up of two-colour panels, shearling parkas alternated with down duffle coats paired with tracksuit trousers in soft leather. Daring patchworks featuring tartan and animal prints dominated the collection. The sportswear looks were embellished with reflective lapels, PVC decorations and luminous brooches, leaving room for the older man who, juxtaposed with the sportier side of Burberry, wore striped woollen duffle coats and down gilets over mono-colour tailored outerwear. English-style outfits lent a more severe, elegant look…

PARIS January 18, 2019 Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus created as punk a collection as can be. With so much black and metal, holes and chains, some of the looks bordered on horror, but of course nothing was left to chance and the most hidden meanings were later revealed as being about“finding beauty in the dark”. And beauty took a lot of finding in these frightening figures in black, kohl-rimmed eyes and dark lipstick, with fishnet knits and tunics worn over bare skin or trousers slashed by zips or else fishnet tights at times worn with bermuda shorts. Jackets and coats were topped with necklaces and leather harnesses with metal spikes and snap hooks, while the more ‘innocent’ looks featured midi dresses with raw-cut or fringed hems…

PARIS January 18, 2019 Kim Jones turned the Dior Homme runway into a kind of couture salon, with models standing still on an airport-style conveyor belt. The clothes were also a blend of couture and tailoring. Jones integrated a stole into blazers and coats. Half-scarf and half-sash, the piece attached to the inside of the lapel and wrapped around the body to creating a fascinating 3D drape that, according to the designer, came from looking at the cut of a 1955 dress by Monsieur Dior. There were also references to today’s Parisian culture, including protective vests worn like armour over knits and jackets, some in animal print, and shiny technical trousers tucked into ankle boots. More classic trousers were tucked into technical gaiters. Kim Jones trasforma la passerella di Dior…

MILANO January 13, 2019 Extreme winter sports, Nirvana grunge and psychedelia are the disparate ingredients of the new collection from the Caten brothers at Dsquared2, and the very first outfit clearly expressed all the excess: a neon-pink and fire-yellow western shirt with beading instead of fringing, orange tie-dye jeans, and a belt with chains and a crucifix hanging off it. The rest of the looks continued in the same vein. Psychedelic patterned tank tops featured the logo in heavy metal-style font, leather jackets and iridescent parkas, shearling-lined shirt-jackets were worn under or over oversize ribbed cardigans and shiny ski-style salopettes had the braces pulled down and flared legs adjusted with Velcro straps and/or zips to make putting ski boots on easier. There were also a few classic jackets but it…

MILANO January 14, 2019 “In my fantasy world, he is the only man related to Fendi”. Silvia Venturini Fendi is, naturally, talking about Karl Lagerfeld, recently deceased, whom she first met at her home in Rome when she was 5. The designer has become insinuated within the fabric of the brand’s business and family. He was the inspiration for and a contributor to this collection, designing a strong-shouldered double-breasted jacket with a shawl lapel on one side and a notch on the other. This asymmetry, this duality ran throughout the rest of the collection too. Two-colour overcoats and blazers, sweaters with one zipped sleeve, zip-through two-colour knits, some fine, sheer trousers and shirts and others solid and chunky. Some pieces assembled a collage of motifs representing the notes and images…

PARIS January 15, 2019 Heron Preston is one of those designers who draws inspiration from American streetwear, with a close eye on social media, where he has a massive following. A DJ, artist and creative consultant of Kanye West, as well as a youth style icon, he is another enfant prodige in the vein of Virgil Abloh and his collections are packed with elements tied to American culture and society. His latest was inspired by the Instagram feed of the Transportation Security Administration, the US government agency for airport security. The clothes, which blended street aesthetic with workwear, came in the form of uniforms, cassocks, sweatshirts, multi-pocketed gilets, T-shirts and cargo trousers featuring branding and labels including a Cyrillic character logo of Securitas, the world’s leading private security firm. There…

MILANO January 13, 2019 John Richmond’s rock tailoring returned to Milan’s runways with lots of black and various references to military, beginning with camouflage and various shades of green for shirts, bombers and cargo trousers. This was mixed with Japanese embroidery and some neon-tinted technical pieces, such as down jackets, which also came in long versions. Blazers were decorated with bright studs or had leather sleeves, while other pieces featured zips and multi-pockets. A loop belt with trailing end was worn with almost all the trousers, from classic to sporty, and appeared over some of the blazers. Black and grey were interspersed with touches of neon, as per the latest trend, and a few splashes of purple. Many of the pieces were recycled from other clothing, a virtuous practice gaining ground…

PARIS January 20, 2019 The new Kenzo collection was showcased against a backdrop of murals by the Peruvian artist and shaman Pablo Amaringo, with traditional music capable of creating a trance-like state. Lim and Leon’s aim was to recreate a sort of psychedelic/hallucinogenic effect on the clothes, with saturated tones (the neon pink in the finale was almost hypnotic), optical patterns and a whirlpool motif taken from the brand’s archives. But the real inspiration came from Leon’s father’s Chinese-Peruvian heritage, the Tusán, who were people of Chinese ancestry who settled Peru in the mid-19th century. Ponchos in technical fabric and blankets worn as jackets and/or sweaters were added to the workwear style alongside formal wear and mountain apparel: quilted outerwear, technical gilets, trousers with elastic cuffs and knee patches, beanie…

MILANO January 12, 2019 Bolognese designer and artist Luca Magliano made his debut at the Milan menswear shows with a collection inspired by the ‘80s writing of Pier Vittorio Tondelli and the social-democratic festivals on the Via Emilia, “a mix of suburban folklore and idealistic sub-culture”. In between lies Bologna and its underground atmosphere, expressed by a vintage style of mainly oversize shapes embellished with geometric decorations ranging from zigzags to lozenges to classic stripes in neutral and bright colours. Tailored separates featuring oversized single and double-breasted jackets worn with shirts with big pointed collars and loose trousers alternated with jumpers with raised intarsia and long frayed threads. Outerwear fell below the knee and came with broad shoulders. Il designer e artista bolognese Luca Magliano debutta a Milano Uomo con…

ROMA January 8, 2019 Staged at Cinecittà Studios, Moschino’s co-ed show was inspired by Fellini films, which Jeremy Scott loves because they are surreal, exaggerated, “otherworldly”. The looks reflected the characters in several of the director’s films, from‘Satyricon’ to‘8 ½’, ‘Casanova’ to ‘Roma’ and ‘La Dolce Vita’, with tailored suits and coats featuring ancient Roman raised engravings and blazers with built-in sashes that fell to the floor like cloaks. Centurion accessories, such as armour and metal belts, were worn over sweatshirts and shirts, while mythological creatures and emperor heads were used as decorative motifs on neck scarf prints. There were also jewelled tracksuits with metallic gold embroidery or ‘trapped’ inside gold mesh, while the finale, a dinner suit made up of a biker jacket, a fluffy white tutu and combat…

MILANO January 12, 2019 Neil Barrett celebrated his 20th anniversary with an unusual theme for him, punk, which, as the designer recalled, was a mixture of school uniforms, biker and military. All of that featured in his latest collection, with added printed neon signs from London’s Soho red-light district and Tokyo’s Shinjuku, which were used to decorate coats, knits and trousers with high turn-ups worn with solid combat boots. British tailoring was embellished with eco-fur collars, while the animal theme appeared often on outerwear, knits and trousers, including the turn-ups. Velvet jackets, overcoats and trousers inevitably harked back to the ’70s, when punk first began in England, leading Neil Barrett to choose it to celebrate a major anniversary in the not-very-punk world of fashion. Neil Barrett celebra i suoi 20…

PARIS January 20, 2019 The English countryside met the city in Paul Smith’s latest show, an eye-catching blend bordering on punk. ‘Old’ riding jackets with a Victorian appeal were paired with turtlenecks, shirts and skinny trousers crisscrossed by zips or strapped under the knee with side buckles, tucked into boots that were a mix of biker and horse-riding. Wool or leather coats came in bold tints or animal prints, with contrasting half lapels and more side buckles - a detail repeated on other outerwear with windowpane motifs. The knitwear was chunky and oversize in bold colour blocks while some of the shirts were so long they protruded from under blazers almost like a dress. The finale was brightened by big floral all-over prints. La campagna inglese incontra la città sull’ultima…

LONDON January 6, 2019 Christopher Raeburn can be proud of his first 10 years in business, given that when he started out in 2009 hardly any designers were thinking about sustainability. The designer was a pioneer of upcycling, a technique that dominates this new collection of technical, high-performing pieces made from military uniforms, blankets and parachutes. Parkas, windbreakers, cargo trousers and tracksuits came with shiny surfaces, colour blocking, patchwork and lots of green and featured details such as pockets, zips, straps and drawstrings. The show included several Timberland x Raeburn pieces, signalling the designer’s recent appointment as global creative director of the American brand, while big collars confirmed the collection’s focus on protection. Christopher Raeburn può andare fiero dei suoi 10 anni di attività, dato che quando ha cominciato, nel…

PARIS January 19, 2019 With his inimitable eccentric touch, Thom Browne showed a reflection on tailoring with a womenswear twist, i.e. the feminine potential of the structure of tailored men’s clothing. Divided into three parts, the show began with eight guys dressed in white with their faces encased in transparent plastic. This‘make-up’ continued in the rest of the looks, which featured stovepipe hats and big mittens in the same material, making the models look as though they had just emerged from a freezer. Then came a long series of looks in which coats and suits were deconstructed and spliced together, ending up in ambiguous, asexual territory. Coats had fur panels on the sleeves and hems, trousers became skirts and great patchworks of classic menswear fabrics, especially check, transformed shirts, blazers…

PARIS January 17, 2019 The dark web is a murky place where the most horrible things can be bought, with Bitcoin. Demna Gvasalia knows about it and is justifiably scared by it. What’s even scarier is that anyone is free to access it and conceal their identity while doing so. The Vetements collection was built around this issue of identity and the relationship with social media. The first look, a kind of tribute to Steve Jobs, was a black turtleneck printed with the words: ‘Warning!! What you are about to witness will disturb you. There is a dark side of humanity the censors won’t let you see… but we will. View it at your own risk’. What followed was a series of oversize looks fit for street kids ready to…