Innholdsfortegnelse for Spring - Summer 2019 i SHOWDETAILS MEN

When things come back, they tend to do so in groups, like when a cluster of memories suddenly come clearly to mind, even bringing smells and sensations with them. It’s a little like that when decades make a comeback and turn up on the runways in a complete block, including the bad bits and the things that were not so elegant or tasteful in the first place. After the ’80s hedonism and excess we have seen on runways over the last few seasons, it’s now the turn of logos and slogans. These big statements of narcissism and self-affirmation, both for the brands they represent and those wearing them, often appear in block letters and bold colours on T-shirts, sweatshirts and accessories. Representing a brand, the logo is, in a certain…

Tailoring territory no longer has any boundaries. Many designers were neither moving into couture nor giving in completely to the all-powerful streetwear, rather seeking out compromises that produced eye-catching hybrids. Like Alessandro Sartori for Ermenegildo Zegna, who retained classic menswear codes but injected techsporty details such as drawstrings, maxi-pockets, elastic hems, contrasting insets, zips and hoods. Fabrics also adapted, acquiring lightness and mixing with mesh and other ‘performance’ materials. Sneakers on the feet, obviously. Confidence and even a hint of narcissism for Pal Zileri’s man, who has always been accustomed to a formal wardrobe. In this collection, sha pes and combinations were progressively relaxed, with glossy floral jackets worn over suits, classic blazers with insect brooches on the lapels worn with loose Hawaiian design trousers and rope belts with big…

Chi l’ha detto che l’haute couture non si possa applicare anche al menswear? Ci sono stati designer, in questa tornata di sfilate, che hanno provato a farlo, sia perché stanchi di felpe e stampe sparate, sia perché le contaminazioni sono sempre affascinanti, ancor più se inattese e rappresentano comunque una sfida per i creativi. N°21 di Alessandro Dell’Acqua lascia le sneakers sui piedi di qualcun altro e le rimpiazza con sandali con il cinturino e creeper da portare con calze di seta nude. Il daywear sartoriale è riesaminato in chiave Nineties à la Helmut Lang ovvero severo, minimale ma sensuale, con camicie sbottonate che lasciano scoperti spalle e parte del torace, proposte rigate o in raffinata toile de Jouy. Il PVC colorato, tagliato e cucito come il miglior tessuto maschile,…

MANTECO CELEBRATES 75 YEARS IN BUSINESS Manteco, the Prato textile company founded in 1943, celebrates its 75th anniversary this year. For this special occasion, it has joined with two partners: the Luigi Pecci Contemporary Art Centre, founded 30 years ago, and Lungarno Collection, a luxur y hotel chain with marked artistic leanings. The joint project encompasses two themes dear to the company: art and nature, a combination perfectly interpreted by Loris Cecchini, a multidisciplinary artist, who will create a site-specific work on the walls of Florence’s Galler y Hotel visible from June to December 2018. The work, manufactured by industry and assembled by artisans, relates a natural and mineral world through biological and architectural references, giving life to a particular atmosphere on the boundaries of poetry, science and environment. On…

NEW GOVERNANCE FOR TESSITURA MONTI 2018 marks an important new milestone for Tessitura Monti, founded in 1911, which has made shirting fabrics for many years. With immediate effect, starting on 1st July, Tessitura Monti Spa redefines its governance and brings directive roles back into the family, launching a new phase for the company. The powers of former managing director Luca Belenghi return to the owners and are divided and attributed to Directors Manuel Monti and Bruno Monti, in their role as Executive Vice Presidents. “This new governance was a considered decision shared with all of our board of directors. Passing the baton from Luca Belenghi back to the family is a sign of continuity,” explains Manuel Monti. The company thus continues with greater solidity to provide its services, quality fabrics,…

MILANO June 16, 2018 “It’s a young Gatsby, contemporary and a little sporty,” said Brunello Cucinelli about the man in his latest collection. The designer’s idea is that traditional tailoring makes men look and feel old, so the silhouette should be adjusted and relaxed to enhance it in all the right places. The jacket, for example, a piece that adds value to an entire look, has soft but well defined shoulders. It is single or double-breasted, fitted at the waist, in linen or cotton, looks as light as a cardigan and comes in sand, caramel and tobacco tints. Alternatives to a shirt are crew or V-neck tennis sweaters, while track pants are in soft cashmere and paired with a quilted vest. “Avevo in mente un giovane Gatsby, però contemporaneo e…

MILANO June 20, 2018 Etro turned its former ice-palace into a bamboo forest, reflecting the fact that much of the brand’s latest collection was made from this strong, ecological fibre that does not need water to grow, unlike cotton, as explained by Kean. The collection’s clear sustainable message was also expressed in designs celebrating nature and Indonesian and Mexican patterns and Dutch prints introduced into Africa via a detachment of soldiers deployed to Borneo in 1890. All this variety of patterns was used to decorate single and double-breasted suits and separates with east-oriented details like kimono jackets and obi belts. In addition to bamboo, nettles were also used to make some of the trousers, while jacquard jackets were in hemp and parkas and bombers were woven with raffia. Etro trasforma…

MILANO June 16, 2018 The Kiton collection follows the typical weekend of a businessman, ending the working day in a formal suit before changing into bermuda shorts or a track suit and transferring to his yacht, moored perhaps in Monte Carlo. For the Neapolitan brand, tailoring is about relaxed elegance, so slimfitting suits are worn with a super-fine white T-shirt and woven sneakers and a silk blazer is paired with jeans and a patterned shirt or immaculate drawstring track pants. More casual fare includes two-way zipped blousons and cardigans, denim shirts and jackets, light hooded sweatshirts, track pants and more sneakers with a solid contrasting colour sole. La collezione di Kiton segue il week-end tipo di un uomo d’affari che conclude la giornata lavorativa in abito formale per poi trasferirsi,…

MILANO June 18, 2018 “My menswear is rooted in British tailoring”, said Stella McCartney of her collection, which as always was an eye-catching mix of tailoring, femininity, sport, streetwear and, in this case, a touch of Sixties and Seventies and the ’90s English music scene. Slim double-breasted suits The Beatles would obviously have loved alternated with more casual looks made up of oversize sweaters, shirts and loose trousers or track pants with side bands and stirrups worn under faux leather loafers with chain, as an alternative to white sneakers. Modern and bohemian, it’s a self-sufficient look that does not have to be on-trend with slogans, logos and loud prints. “Il mio abbigliamento maschile è radicato nella sartoria britannica”, dice Stella McCartney a proposito della propria collezione che è come sempre…

PARIS June 22, 2019 The press notes for Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen show read “Tailoring forms the backbone to this collection”. It was a deeply masculine collection that used the work and decorations of painter Francis Bacon and photographer John Deakin, two homosexual men living in the United Kingdom, in 1950s Soho, when homosexuality was still illegal, in constant conflict between duty and desire. Duality and inner struggle were expressed by trenches split in two made from different colours and materials, shirts with sliced cuffs and trousers with sliced hems, while rust-coloured prints, brushstroke satin embroideries, daubs of colour, printed or jacquard graffiti on suits, coats and biker jackets were all references to the work of the two artists. Le note di sfilata di Sarah Burton per Alexander McQueen dicono…

PARIS June 24, 2018 Olivier Rousteing’s new collection for Balmain featured a lot of red, white, and blue to represent the American and the French flag, even though the tricolour beat the stars and stripes because this is the designer’s home nation. Raised on Michael Jackson’s music, Rousteing paid homage to him with ad hoc references such as a red biker jacket with lots of zips, a branded T-shirt in look 8, the sweatshirts and knits with illustrations reminiscent of the ‘Dangerous’ album cover and mirror-frogging, not to mention all the white socks and black loafers. The designer’s American vision also involved oversize jumpers and college cardigans with crests and ripped jeans. France responded with various types of Breton stripes, including sequinned, and the tricolour was woven, studded and printed…

LONDON June 10, 2018 It isn’t always easy to see the themes behind Hussein Chalayan collections because the designer’s conceptual explorations often take precedence over pure style sense, but the clothes and silhouettes produced are certainly unique. In his new collection, Chalayan’s intention was to represent male aggression versus female resistance via the ancient Roman story of the rape of the Sabines. The shoulders and collars on jackets and trenches fell down as though someone had tried to wrench them away, while trousers and bermuda shorts were held up by a single strap across the chest, which often ended in a sort of big bag-pocket with a flap. The gender was unisex with fluid lines and even some skirts. Is female strength getting the upper hand over male? It wouldn’t…

FIRENZE June 14, 2018 What if angels walked among us? Craig Green thinks they do. In fact, he thinks that people can become angels if they work hard and do good. The Boboli Gardens were the setting for a dark-transcendental show featuring some models ‘framed’ by a neoprene outline of a man evocative of guardian angels but also the chalked outlines of a crime scene. Several looks had decorative orange cords threaded through loops on knits, suits and trousers similar to work uniforms, while in other looks the surfaces recalled those cords through trompe l’oeil textures. Flaps of fabric resembling vestiges of flags appeared around the silhouettes, contributing to that idea of flawed yet innovative fashion of which Green is so fond. Se gli angeli sono tra noi? Beh, Craig…

MILANO June 16, 2018 After exploring every possible aspect of the Millennials world, Dolce & Gabbana can now affirm that their own classics, from dinner jackets to black lace and silk suits, appeal to the new generations too. So, for this collection the duo condensed 34 years of style codes into almost 150 looks, touching every part of life from infancy to old age. The show was made up of 40 oppositions (that attracted one another): velvet vs. brocade, sacred vs. profane, erotic vs. Catholic, and so on. There were plenty of single and double-breasted suits, some threepiece, with contrasting or pyjama style lapels, patchwork or glossy brocade or studs. ‘Sicilian’ looks had a lace shirt or mesh vest tucked into loose trousers with darts, oversize sweatshirts and T-shirts with…

MILANO June 18, 2018 Fendi’s new collection focuses on letters written in reverse and switching letters around to create different meanings, which fits well with the Roman brand’s thinking, i.e. that the essence of things is hidden behind appearances. Reworking the now ubiquitous phenomenon of streetwear, the show included overcoats, blousons and anoraks over shirts, T-shirts and polo shirts worn with trousers of various lengths, shorts and bermuda shorts, some of which concealed a studied complexity, like the outerwear in sheer effect mesh or the panel that turned bermuda shorts into a skirt or the double-F jackets and bombers resembling PVC or leather, but were actually in paperlight fabric. The abundant use of black was perhaps part of the brand creating yet more mystique around itself. Al centro della nuova…

LONDON June 8, 2018 Under the creative direction of James Long, Iceberg presented its first show in London with an on-trend mix of athleisure and knitwear - two elements of the Italian brand’s DNA, a touch of vintage and a big dose of logomania. Tracksuits, sweatshirts with and without a hood and track pants were emblazoned with ‘Iceberg since 1974’ in contrasting block letters accompanied, in some of the looks, by the Peanuts characters redrawn by Long. There were lots of references to sports, such as football and motorcycling, while some of the formal menswear featured contrasting details that gave a streetwear edge. The mood was completed with neon sneakers reminiscent of the Italian house scene from the ‘90s. Sotto la direzione creativa di James Long, Iceberg sfila per la…

PARIS June 24, 2018 There is a gap between non-formal and non-casual in which things merge. Lucas Ossendrijver for Lanvin likes exploring that gap and this time he did it by looking at the polarities between “night and day, soft and hard, flat and 3D” with clothes that came in eye-catching hybrids between the various categories of menswear. In a constant play of layering, there were T-shirts over T-shirts or shirts over shirts, some high-necked, other V-necked, and others cropped over extralong ones, and so on. Technical jackets were layered over blazers, which had contrasting details such as utility pockets or topstitching. These details also featured on short or long, loose or slim trousers with big turn-ups or slit hems worn with sneakers or loafers with sneaker soles. Bags, mainly…

PARIS June 22, 2018 The Maison Margiela show was all about extreme, sexy glamour, represented by an idea of fluid masculinity based on the various types of tailoring, taking in British hunting and fishing apparel as well as a range of embellishments and cuts normally reserved for women’s haute couture. Suits or separates were worn with second-skin turtlenecks covered with crystals and edged with colourful feathers, trenches and coats were ‘encased’ in veils, blazers were topped with corsets - a style element much loved by creative director John Galliano. There was lots of vinyl and leather for skinny highwaist trousers worn with metal pointed Texan boots, while oriental fluorescence decorated kimono jackets, some in a biker version, with maxi obi belts. Fusions of different pieces and destructuring were the order…

FIRENZE June 13, 2018 Dedicated to contemporary perceptions of freedom and movement, the new collection from Korean brand MCM drew inspiration from aviation and, consequently, military uniforms and their pure functionality. Genderless as almost all collections are these days, the clothes had a relaxed fit resulting from light, impalpable or sheer fabrics with glossy or sequinned textures reminiscent of iridescent bird’s plumage. And, as often happens during an acrobatic parachute jump, when divers come together in formations, MCM also featured modular clothes and accessories, with parts that could be added or removed. Plenty of pockets, belt-straps or wide bands around the waist, adjustable Velcro or elastics at the cuffs and ankles and big backpacks blended in with the clothing. Dedicata alle contemporanee percezioni di libertà e di movimento, la nuova…

MILANO June 18, 2018 “I felt it was time for me to express a different sensibility, a more sensual idea of masculinity and a modern idea of classic elegance”. Leaving streetwear and sportswear behind, Alessandro Dell’Acqua moved his N°21 brand beyond mere trends with a collection that shunned ever-present sneakers in favour of strappy leather sandals or creepers worn with nude silk socks. The focus was on tailored day wear, black or grey trousers or shorts, inspired by ’90s minimalism, worn with a matching blazer and duster coat over wrinkled shirts open at the chest. Dell’Acqua’s idea of tailoring was also applied to pieces in colourful PVC, which was cut and sewn like the best menswear fabric and used even for accessories, while toile de Jouy prints featured ironic motifs…

MILANO June 18, 2018 Rocco Iannone, the new creative director at Pal Zileri, staged a quiet spring show outside the Museo Diocesano on Corso di Porta Ticinese. There was no precise theme; just a focus on the self in a slightly narcissistic though not smug way. Iannone broke down the brand’s codes of tailoring, as seen in the very first looks - soft jackets and tapering trousers sometimes worn with a floral blazer or madras shirt. The rest of the show was a progressive relaxation of shapes and combinations. Trousers, some with Hawaiian patterns, became looser and fastened with drawstrings like pyjamas, or had long rope belts with tassel ends, while knitwear was thin and relaxed. Rocco Iannone, nuovo direttore creativo di Pal Zileri, mette in scena un tranquillo spettacolo…

MILANO June 17, 2018 Simple is beautiful. Because logos and slogans make us look like walking billboards. That is more or less what Miuccia Prada thinks and her latest collection expressed that, with its cleanness and minimalism understood as a pause for thought. At Spazio Prada in Via Fogazzaro, which Rem Koolhaas’s AMO studio had fitted out with the understatement of transparent PVC film, lean boys paraded in jersey turtlenecks in bright monochrome or floral-patterned colours under blazers with zipped pockets, suede trenches, polo shirts, T-shirts and shirts with and without ruches. Everything was paired with tennis shorts and colourful trousers and micro-shorts. Miuccia’s musings also made room for a vintage touch which, alongside a (perhaps involuntary) sporty appeal, resembled some athletic wear from the ’70s. Semplice è bello. Perché…

FIRENZE June 13, 2018 The relaunch of Roberto Cavalli began in Florence, the brand’s home city, under the creative direction of Paul Surridge who since last year has been tasked with sprucing up the label. The show opened with fluid, white looks, but the brand’s signature animal patterns crept in as early as the fourth exit. Blazers, shirts, jackets and trousers featured python, zebra and tiger designs in both black and white and bright jungle colours, which were also used as linings. These were paired with faded denim, some with contrasting insets, thin oversize and, in some cases, frayed knitwear, which almost entirely covered the animal patterned shorts. Sneakers were solid and aerodynamic, in line with the latest trends. Il rilancio di Roberto Cavalli prende il via da Firenze, città…

PARIS June 23, 2018 “Please see the world through my eyes… please…”. This plea written by Thom Browne was left next to a box containing a pair of sunglasses with tinted lenses and a lollipop. These were the surreal clues to an equally surreal show: an English lawn surrounded by a picket fence, garden gnomes, balloons and wheelbarrows dotted everywhere, in the middle stood a two-colour playhouse around which the models walked in straw hats complete with flower and odd socks tucked into sky-high platforms. It was a show of two halves, in that looks 2-30 featured oversize proportions while looks 31 to 59 were ‘slimmer’ versions of the first half, featuring leaner jackets, shorter sleeves and closer-fitting trousers (and skirts). Tailored suits were given the usual pinstripe and checks,…

PARIS June 21, 2018 “A little bit sexy” is how Yohji Yamamoto defined his latest collection. The designer likes playing with fashion and, despite all that black, he also loves playing it down because “when you create, you don’t need to be so serious”. While the first half of the show was almost all black coats and fluid suits dotted with playful pockets and zips, the second half had some bold injections of colour and an explicit erotic charge, with images of traditional Japanese women in various states of pleasure on the legs of trousers or the side of an oversize shirt or tunic. More emphasis on the lusty mood came in the form of floral explosions interspersed with skulls, because Eros and Thanatos go hand in hand. “Un po’…

The explosion of logos and slogans, which began a few seasons ago and has really established itself in the latest two, goes hand in hand with the rise of streetwear, to which even the most exclusive luxur y brands have adapted. Fendi does so with studied confidence, transforming the mere trend into an exercise in style, a veritable literary game with the same characters as the logo, which featured back-to-front or with ‘Roma’ written backwards to read ‘amor’. Everything came in all-over patterns on blousons, shirts, shorts, trousers and even on linings and accessories. In Olivier Rousteing’s collection for Balmain Homme, the brand’s name featured on red, white and blue T-shirts, knits, sweatshirts and cardigans, recalling the French and US flags – all mixed with lettering and prints inspired by…

Quando torna qualcosa, torna tutto insieme, come con i ricordi che ci sorprendono all’improvviso, nitidissimi, ricordi di cui sentiamo perfino gli odori o le sensazioni. È un po’ così anche con le decadi che tornano a stagioni sulle passerelle e che di quelle si riprende tutto, a scatola chiusa, anche le cose non proprio eleganti, piuttosto di cattivo gusto. Ora e da qualche stagione, con gli anni ’80 lì a ricordarci edonismo ed eccessi, sono tornati anche loghi e slogan, elementi massimi di narcisismo e di autoaffermazione, sia per i marchi da essi rappresentati, sia per chi quei simboli li indossa, spesso sparati a caratteri cubitali e colori forti, soprattutto su T-shirt, felpe e accessori. Rappresentando un brand, il logo è, in un certo senso, il suo primo testimonial pubblico,…

I territori del sartoriale non hanno ormai più confini; tanti designer non arrivano a scomodare l’alta moda ma nemmeno si sottomettono completamente alle regole dello streetwear imperante, cercano piuttosto dei compromessi che danno vita a forme ibride accattivanti. Come Alessandro Sartori per Ermenegildo Zegna che mantiene le forme classiche del vestire maschile ma iniettandole di dettagli tecno-sportivi come coulisse, maxi-tasche, elastici sugli orli, inserti a contrasto, zip e cappucci. Anche i tessuti si adattano, acquistando leggerezza e mescolandosi a reti e altri materiali ‘performanti’. Sneakers ai piedi, ovviamente. Disinvoltura e forse un pizzico di narcisismo per l’uomo di Pal Zileri, da sempre abituato a un guardaroba formale, qui in progressivo rilassamento di forme e accostamenti che vedono giacche floreali, in superfici lucide, sovrapposte ai completi, blazer classici con spille a…

‘RITMOEMOTIVO’: THE NEW CHAPTER IN THE ‘CAOSORDINATO CULTURAL PROJECT’ It all began with CAOSORDINATO, the book curated by Stefano Chiassai and Corinna Chiassai, which in 2016 launched a broad cultural project: a series of events and installations that forged dialogue between fashion, design and ar t. Two years later, it begins again with RITMOEMO-TIVO (Emotionalrhythm), the second book published by Nuova Libra Editrice, which was presented on 13th June, at the 94th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo. For the second book, the curators once again started out with vintage garments and accessories (15,000 in total) from Stefano C h i assai’s private archive. In the designer’s words, the work carried out on the clothes and accessories “revives their stories, relates where they come from, their traditions, different cultures and ages…

FIRENZE June 20, 2018 This is the last ride out for Delphine Ninous on the Belstaff motorcycle. The designer’s desire to pursue new opportunities coincides with a change of ownership at the brand, acquired from JAB by chemicals multinational Ineos headed by Jim Ratcliffe, who is currently Britain’s richest person. While we wait to see what the newly-appointed creative director, Sean Lehnhardt-Moore, will do, we have Ninous’ last work to consider. As in past seasons, she reworked the moto jacket in an ultralight version in silky nylon, while the Trialmaster came in faded blue. The jackets were styled with crew neck knits and collarless shirts and mainly cargo or multi-zipped trousers in rather slim lines with turn-ups resting on lace-up boots. Questa è l’ultima avventura di Delphine Ninous sulla motocicletta…

MILANO June 16, 2018 Daniele Alessandrini’s collection for next summer is sure to be a hit with lovers of casual wear, combining different genres according to the new menswear dress rules. Little zipped jackets, camouflage raincoats, brightly coloured sweatshirts and looks that recall football or motor racing team apparel are the order of the day. T-shirts and tracksuits feature slogans and statements, some in a ‘tabloid’ format. Soft or jogging trousers with side bands and/or drawstring waist are cropped at the ankle to reveal urban-style sneakers, while big visible pockets are added to technical tights. Classic patterns mix with vivid colour blocking for looks that do not go unnoticed. La collezione della prossima stagione estiva, firmata Daniele Alessandrini, non può che soddisfare gli amanti del casual in una contaminazione di…

MILANO June 17, 2018 Grey Daniele Alessandrini produces a great look for countryside dandies, offering impeccable single and double-breasted tailoring and waistcoats complete with colourful beaded fob chain, just to give an added touch of eccentricity. Jackets and trousers, often with drawstring fasteners, are cut slim and worn with white sneakers to play down serious looks, while jeans, baseball caps and camouflage pieces, with some contrasting prints, add a more casual edge. Military inspiration introduces safari jackets with chains in khaki and sandy tones, striped suits and thin knits have a colonial feel, while T-shirts with playful prints, blousons, track pants and bermuda shorts prove that the sporty mood can even influence old-school dressing. Sneakers with fleece trim are a new addition this season. Sono inequivocabilmente dei dandy di campagna…

MILANO June 16, 2018 Motorbike adventures for the Missoni man, who has a taste for travel in his DNA and chooses this alternative form of transport wisely, since Angela Missoni confesses the motorbike has been a family passion handed all the way down to her nephew. The sporty theme was mainly used in a nonliteral way. The collection featured a lightness and an exoticism produced by soft lines and colours ranging from powder pink to amber, sand and olive green. The brand’s signature knitwear came in the form of light V, crew or polo neck sweaters paired with soft linen trousers or leather biker drawstring pants or shorts, which made the outfit look protective. Perfect for a motorcycling trip! Avventure in motocicletta per l’uomo Missoni, che il gusto per il…

MILANO June 16, 2018 The reassuring feeling of standing out with personality. Wearing comfortable, classically cut clothes reworked in a modern and never banal style, materials that follow the body shape like a soft caress. A harmony of premium leathers, worked by the very best craftsmen, caress everyday life with style, comfort and a feeling of protection. The new Spring/Summer collection from The Gregory daringly and confidently mixes a boundless future with the flavour of the past in an authentic dialogue. Silk-soft calfskin, ‘destroyed’ buffalo hide with the feel of motorcycle rides with the wind in your hair and the smell of sun-scorched earth, lambskin as delicate as lace that lets through the sun’s rays to illuminate hand-painted silk and linen floral linings. Every detail is unique, carefully selected to…

PARIS June 21, 2018 “The idea is that you take a train after work with your friends, and instead of getting off in Paris, you decide you are going to the end of the line – the terminus – to escape, breathe some air, and just enjoy the time”. This is how Alexandre Mattiussi explained his collection for Ami, thinking of a weekend trip to Normandy, so it was no surprise the models walked through a wheat field set in casual, relaxed clothing with a nod to sportswear. Not that suits were completely absent, but they were mainly soft separates, with long jackets and trousers above the calf or loose bermuda shorts layered over Lycra cycling shorts, paired with T-shirts and/or half untucked shirts and sneakers or strap sandals with…

FIRENZE June 13, 2018 American college kids on tour in Italy, perhaps in Florence, where creative director Angelo Van Mol showed his latest Band of Outsiders collection. A grassy square in the Fortezza da Basso was dotted with polystyrene columns, busts and sculptures, which were also printed on the shirts and bermuda shorts worn by these tourists. They also wore baseball caps and branded bumbags, college jackets and jumpers, printed T-shirts, loose trousers and shorts topped with shirt tails. The classic tourist outfit of tracksuits and sneakers came out of the brand’s collaboration with Sergio Tacchini, the long-standing Italian sportswear brand. Suits and coats were mainly oversize, with turned-up jacket sleeves and creased hems. In short, this kid does not mind if he looks a little untidy, after all he…

LONDON June 10, 2018 Christopher Raeburn’s commitment to sustainable, eco-friendly fashion is growing stronger every season. Climate change and the melting of the polar icecap lie at the heart of his new summer collection, which is dominated by technical pieces, sportswear and streetwear such as parkas, anoraks, track pants in Arctic white, red, black and grey featuring hanging tabs that read ‘Reduced, Remade, Raeburn’. Satellite photos of melting glaciers were reproduced in black and white mosaics on T-shirts, trousers and bermuda shorts, some of which were overlaid with plastic. Repurposed Timberland sweatshirts from the ’80s, made in collaboration with the brand, were further proof that reuse is cool. L’impegno di Christopher Raeburn in una moda sostenibile e attenta al Pianeta diventa sempre più tangibile stagione dopo stagione; cambiamenti climatici e…

MILANO June 17, 2018 For Daks’s 125th anniversary, creative director Filippo Scuffi dipped into the ’70s and came up with an eccentric, self-confident dandy, as shown by the first look - a checked widebrimmed hat with matching overcoat, T-shirt, neck-tie knotted at the neck, white shorts and suede loafers. The next exits alternated an almost oversize fit (see the flared trousers) with closer-fitting or tight lines, as seen in the almost sheer turtlenecks and deep V-neck sweaters. Formal suits alternated in the same way, even with shorts. The colour palette was unusual, mainly featuring muted, autumnal shades in clear contrast with the neon explosion on other runways. Per i 125 anni di Daks, il direttore creativo Filippo Scuffi fa un tuffo negli anni ’70 proponendo un dandy eccentrico e sicuro…

PARIS June 21, 2018 Danish interior designer Vernon Panton, who designed brightly-coloured plastic chairs in the ’60s, was the starting point for the new collection from Dries Van Noten, who spoke of a different vision of the world gained from sitting in these chairs. Van Noten asked for permission to use Panton’s prints digitally, reproducing them on coats, jackets, knits, shorts, bermuda shorts and trousers - easy, practical pieces that were a mix of summer wardrobe and work wear with references to utility wear. The optical prints also ended up on suits worn over bare skin and on accessories - handbags and bumbags - while matching sandals were even worn with the most classic of suits. Il lavoro del designer danese di interni Vernon Panton, autore agli inizi degli anni…

MILANO June 18, 2018 Looking back? Certainly, but only to chart a course forward. This is what Giorgio Armani did, reviving the rounded logo designed in the ’80s and placing it discreetly on knits. The image of the Armani man simply adapts to the passing of time, this time showcasing a relaxed figure with a soft, often double-breasted jacket worn over a bare chest and loose trousers with turn-ups or sporty elastic cuffs. Delicate abstract prints featured on shirts, zipped jackets and comfortable bermuda shorts, breaking up the predominant grey and greige, while the finale included bolder tints but also pastels on geo-patterned waistcoats. A wide-brimmed hat gave many looks the charming retro mood of a man moving from the old world to the new. Guardare indietro? Certo, ma solo…

PARIS June 22, 2018 Military and utilitarian garments are constant features in menswear. Junya Watanabe has fun with this idea of men playing at being soldiers, but his latest collection features outfits that are the perfect combination of ready to wear and ‘combat’ fashion, bolstered by his collaboration with Ark Air, producers of high-performance fabric and garments and suppliers to the British Royal Marines and the French Foreign Legion. These were eye-catching hybrids in which classic Breton tops and shirts were layered under pseudo-bulletproof vests or multi-pocket harnesses and blazers with big technical bumbags, while trousers had camouflage turn-ups or were completely camouflage. The outerwear was also practical and functional, made mainly from technical fabrics with hoods, pockets and zips. I pezzi militari e i capi utilitarian sono delle costanti…

MILANO June 16, 2018 The Les Hommes show was packed with North-Western American elements, particularly Navajo motifs on oversize sweaters, shirts, trousers and even formal suits. But despite designers Notte and Vandebosch mentioning the patterns as a primary source of inspiration, it was actually a superficial detail that did not dominate the mood. More incisive were the fringes decorating bags and outerwear, including technical parkas, or the little metal eyelets, while an unexpected python print was a valid alternative for overcoats and suits. Mask sunglasses, hoods, zips, drawstrings, side bands on sporty trousers and sneakers gave the collection a clear sportswear feel. Una sfilata intrisa di elementi del Nord-Ovest americano, quella di Les Hommes, in particolare di motivi Navajo che decorano maglioni oversize, camicie, pantaloni e anche gli abiti formali.…

MILANO June 16, 2018 Workwear for close encounters of the third kind. The new collection from Marcelo Burlon had a clearly futuristic look emphasised by a palette of acid pink and green paired with black. Slogans, lettering and signage patches were in Burlon’s native Spanish on T-shirts, sweatshirts, anoraks, lab coats and sporty trousers. Everything came in technical, ‘artificial’ materials ranging from PVC to parachute fabric, spandex to mesh. Functional pockets, protective hoods, holographic gloves, chunky sneakers with neon details, and backpacks and bumbags made in collaboration with Eastpak completed the look. This was a capsule collection inspired directly by Spielberg’s film ‘Close Encounters of the Third Kind’, complete with image rights. Abiti da lavoro per incontri ravvicinati del terzo tipo. La nuova collezione di Marcelo Burlon ha uno stampo…

LOS ANGELES June 9, 2018 For Jeremy Scott, fashion is all about fun, so the circus theme chimes well not only with the designer but also with Moschino, which has desecrating irony in its DNA. Scott’s biggest ever show for the brand was staged in a marquee filled with candy floss vendors, acrobats and clowns. The circus cast of characters were all there, from a lion tamer in a glittery zebra print suit to a trapeze artist in a second-skin bodysuit decorated with glittery stars and rainbow cloak to the ringmaster in top hat and tails. But the most numerous were the clowns - a theme already used by Scott over the years - in oversize jackets, big bow-ties, umbrellas and bags with giant polka dots, checked bermuda shorts held…

MILANO June 16, 2018 It’s a miracle! Neil Barrett has added florals to his collection! Anemones, to be precise, which appeared in macro versions on coats, shirts and all-over outfits. The designer himself admitted that he had previously never even been tempted to add a flower to his designs, and yet there is a first time for everything and the reasoning behind this revolutionary choice is an attempt to make the floral masculine. So, the colour was removed and the contrast highlighted for anemones printed on surfaces or appliqué’d as patches or reproduced as abstract illustrations on bags and backpacks. The unexpected florals were accompanied by a military style that was softened somewhat by sportswear styling, especially the Bolt 01 sneakers. Miracolo! Spuntano i fiori sul rigore di Neil Barrett!…

MILANO June 17, 2018 Not one but three sources of inspiration for Francesco Ragazzi at Palm Angels, which produced a very athletic collection with a rave edge. But first we have to take a step back: last spring Ragazzi worked with the band Swedish House Mafia on a merchandise drop at Miami Music Week with accessories such as Matrix-style micro-sunglasses, neon tints and chest bands that paid homage to electronics. They all turned up in this collection. Prints of touristic maps and snow-laden pine trees, or an eagle soaring over a stars and stripes flag, highlighted a certain idea of America tied to Yosemite National Park and its mountains. There was also the collaboration with American brand Under Armour, which specialises in performance apparel. So there were hooded sweatshirts, technical…

PARIS June 20, 2018 “Too many hoodies with prints!” says Raf Simons, declaring war on streetwear. His show, staged at a warehouse in a Parisian suburb, expressed all the desire of a return not just of the understatement of tailoring but also its haute couture side, with references to Yves Saint Laurent and his own experience at Dior. The duchesse satin used in couture womenswear turned up in coats and blazers with broad sloping shoulders, in some cases dotted with metal round studs, in colours ranging from ice to neon pink. There was a clear late-’70s/early-’80s New Wave taste represented by shots of punk nights on asymmetric and/or deconstructed T-shirts and oversize highneck jumpers in lurex. Little silver hoops and minuscule diamonds set here and there recalled piercings and safety…

NEW YORK June 7, 2018 In 1978 Yves Saint Laurent held a party to celebrate the launch of his Opium fragrance on a ship docked at New York City’s South Street Seaport. Forty years later, Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent hosted an ultramodern version of that event on the Hudson in New Jersey’s Liberty State Park. The collection was full of references to the ’70s and Studio 54’s iconic characters, with jewelled embellishments featured from the very first look - a diamanté collar and placket on a black shirt worn under a blazer with leather inlays and black slim jeans. A black blazer, decorated shirt and trousers were the order of the day, at times replaced by a leather or suede jacket or denim hooded sweatshirt, with the addition of…

PARIS June 20, 2018 Logos are undoubtedly back this season. Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino gives in to them with disarming abandon, conscious that fashion less for the red carpet and more for the ‘street’ has to speak to young generations, who seem to be suffering from a kind of horror vacui. Stealing the logo from ’70s and ’80s scarf prints, Piccioli added it to classic suits and coats, and practically everything else, including camouflage jackets and trousers, shirts, sweatshirts, tracksuits and jeans with maxi turn-ups. The logo was often highlighted by neon colours like fluorescent pink against camouflage patterns. The result was a ‘couture’ take on streetwear but the opposite was also true: a more ‘inclusive’, less elitist couture, even with the Valentino logo. Questa è indubbiamente la stagione dei…

Who says haute couture cannot be applied to menswear? In this round of shows, some designers tried to do just that, whether they were tired of sweatshirts and loud prints or because contaminations are always fascinating, even more so if they are unexpected and a challenge for creatives. Alessandro Dell’Acqua for N°21 left sneakers to other brands, replacing them with strap sandals and creepers worn with nude silk socks. Tailored daywear was reworked with a Helmut Lang-style, pared down, minimal yet sensual take on the Nineties. Unbuttoned shirts with stripes or toile de jouy left the shoulders and part of the chest exposed. Colourful PVC, cut and sewn like the best menswear fabric, was used for overcoats and bermuda shorts. Kim Jones, in his first collection for Dior Homme, said…

L’esplosione di loghi e slogan vari, cominciata qualche stagione fa e affermatasi con prepotenza in queste ultime due, va di pari passo con il dilagante fenomeno dello streetwear, cui si sono adattati anche i marchi del lusso più esclusivo. Fendi lo fa con studiata disinvoltura, trasformando la mera tendenza in esercizio di stile, un vero e proprio gioco letterario con gli stessi caratteri del logo, proposti al contrario o con il bifronte di ‘Roma’ che si legge ‘amor’, tutto reiterato anche all over, su blouson, camicie, shorts, pantaloni e perfino su fodere e accessori. Nella collezione di Olivier Rousteing per Balmain Homme, il nome della Maison spicca sul rosso, bianco e blu di t-shirt, maglie, felpe e cardigan, a richiamare le bandiere francese e statunitense, il tutto mixato a scritte…

ASAHI KASEI FIBERS ITALIA WELCOMES NEW CHAIRMAN TAKESHI IITAKA Following his time as Cupro sales department manager, dealing in yarns and fibres for the Chinese, Korean and Taiwanese outerwear markets, as well as supplying Cupro to the Indian and Pakistani markets, Takeshi Iitaka now becomes the new chairman of the European division of Asahi Kasei Fibers based in Gallarate, Italy. Iitaka has had a long career with the Japanese firm that goes all the way back to 1991. He started out in the sales department for polyester fa br ics and yar ns for knitwear and car inter ior s, before becoming deputy director of the external materials department where he was responsible for Japan’s expansion of Cupro fabrics and knitwear. In 2007, as a manager at Solotex Co., a…

PARIS June 20, 2018 ‘To be a suiting house right now is like being a chamber orchestra when the world seems intent on listening only to hip-hop and techno’. Fashion editor Luke Leitch nailed his description of Brioni, but creative director Nina-Maria Nitsche is playing the right music with the instruments available to her. Each character featured in the presentation modelled three looks: one elegant, one formal and one more casual. The result was a series of looks that revealed the infinite possibilities of menswear, even when staying within certain parameters. A beige blazer was embroidered with a peacock taken from a 20th-century arabesque fabric, a multi-coloured robe was retrieved from a tapestry, a white linen evening suit and soft shirts with toile de Jouy brought the wardrobe in line…

MILANO June 18, 2018 For its new summer collection, Dondup did not stray far from its signature sporty urbanwear, subjected this time to technical experimentation with metallic and glossy finishes to give a bit of an edge to otherwise familiar wardrobe basics. Tyvek, a lightweight, nonwoven papery material used for a blue parka, was crinkled and varnished to a patent effect, while the pressed-cardboard texture of denim labels was transformed into big sporty backpacks with a retro appeal. Outerwear, especially the utilitarian section, was slightly oversized, denim was faded and distressed, while tailoring came in relaxed shapes over hooded shirts and turned-up trousers. Anche per la nuova collezione estiva, Dondup non si discosta da quello che è il suo DNA, un urbanwear dal tocco sportivo, sottoposto qui a tecniche sperimentali…

PARIS June 22, 2018 The white shirt and the concept of uniform. Lucie and Luke Meier began with the essence of Jil Sander to develop a collection that plays with those concepts. The result was a series of layered looks with a loose and, in some cases, genderless silhouette featuring wraparound skirts paired with flared cassocks. Everything was hyper-comfortable and oversize, from the jumpers with extralong sleeves over funnel-neck sweaters to the checked turtlenecks and shirts with various types of collar - classic, high or mandarin - to the bermuda shorts resembling skorts. The slimmer-fitting outerwear included parkas, overcoats, zipped blousons, bombers, anoraks and trenches complete with a matching fisherman’s hat. The looks were influenced by military uniforms in their rigour and ‘monastic’ qualities, as per the German brand’s style.…

MILANO June 16, 2018 This Ralph Lauren collection was inspired by engines, in line with the designer’s passion for cars. The coating on a metallic gold parka worn over a dinner jacket was inspired by the fire-retardant engine cladding on the MacLaren Formula 1 car that is part of Lauren’s collection. Other references to cars included mechanic’s overalls, art deco-style travel and sports event posters reworked and then inlaid into jumpers or as stencils stuck to outerwear. Of course, there was also the customary Lauren man navy-inspired fare, with doublebreasted blazers and cardigans with gold buttons, white trousers and shorts, and highnecked sea dog sweaters. È una collezione che sa di motori, questa di Ralph Lauren, in linea con la passione del designer per le automobili; il rivestimento del parka…

MILANO June 18, 2018 When it comes to luxury and glamour, Tom Ford is ruthlessly efficient whether in classic or more casual looks. His new collection was another example, featuring a series of lean tailored suits ranging from pinstripe to Prince of Wales to silk, at times with a moire sheen for evening wear, decorated with abstract animal patterns or mineral motifs. Even daywear had a shine about it. Slim trousers were worn with zebra print blousons or overcoats with contrasting collar and cuffs. Shirts and V-neck knits were relaxed and there were also a few tracksuits, hooded sweatshirts and track pants with drawstrings and elastic hems, naturally deluxe. Quando si tratta di rappresentare lusso e glamour, Tom Ford è spietatamente efficiente, sia nei look più classici che in quelli…

PARIS June 22, 2018 For Sébastien Meunier, the beauty of life is the possibility to dream not just of a different world but also of different clothes, a little outside the ordinary and away from uniformity. With this romantic collection packed with symbolist, decadent elements from the second half of the 19th century, the Ann Demeulemeester man is in an androgynous, spectral mood. Big widebrimmed hats at times topped with a long tulle veil were teamed with light layers of loose blouses and sheer shirts, with bows and high collars, gilets, blazers in dusty delicate colours, cropped trousers of various widths and lace gloves. Some looks featured eerie prints by artist Odilon Redon, which added mystery to the mood. La bellezza della vita è, per Sébastien Meunier, la possibilità di…

FIRENZE June 14, 2018 Showing outside Japan for the first time, at Pitti Immagine Uomo, innovative menswear brand Bed J.W. Ford, founded in 2010 by designer Shinpei Yamagishi, offered layered looks inspired by old English books about horse-riding. The 25 looks, constructed with a careful balance of formal and casual, alternated oversize pieces such as blazers, coats and shirts with closerfitting knits and trousers. Everything, though, was deconstructed and asymmetric, and decorated with embroidery, appliqués and themed designs such as hand-painted horses. Laces, straps and/or fringes hung from hems, while in other looks the jacket hoods covered the face, recalling the blinkers worn by horses. Footwear came in the form of low Texan boots, some in a mule version. In passerella a Pitti Immagine Uomo, per la prima volta fuori…

PARIS June 22, 2018 Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons showcased a parade of ‘Crazy Suits’ that were outside all convention and traditional rules of tailoring. Perhaps her aim was to sweep away omnipotent streetwear once and for all. Kawakubo entertained herself and her audience with suits that sent up formal menswear through myriad colours, patterns and textile details that folded and frayed jackets and trousers without, however, separating them from their basic construction. There was three-dimensional camouflage, multi-coloured stripes and table cloth checks, glossy satin shirts and trousers, savagely gathered fabrics shortening the hemlines – in short, this was tailoring feeling the need to be reinvented in order to be loved once again. Sono proprio ‘Crazy Suits’ gli abiti che Rei Kawakubo fa sfilare per Comme des Garçons, fuori…

PARIS June 23, 2018 Importing couture values into menswear. This is how Kim Jones’s first lesson at Dior Homme can be summed up, and it’s a lesson other Paris designers have also given. But Jones’s first collection for the long-standing brand is romantic rather than feminine. And delicate. How else to explain the opening looks, with single and double-breasted jackets in palecoloured white and sea blue or white and beige shirting stripes worn with sneakers, lace tops, little floral motifs mimicking the pattern of Monsieur Dior’s porcelain dinner service and then trapped under plastic, or toile de Jouy imitating the fabric on the walls of the first Dior boutique in 1947? Other references to the founder included jackets buttoned slightly off-centre with an ‘oblique’ cut, reminiscent of Dior’s 1955 couture…

MILANO June 15, 2018 An exercise in style on a ‘couture’ theme. This is what happened on Ermenegildo Zegna’s mirrored runway built opposite the Mondadori building in Segrate, which Oscar Niemeyer designed in 1968 - the same year Zegna began producing ready to wear fashion. The collection not only reflected the building but also its meaning: “volume without weight”, as creative director Alessandro Sartori called it. Voluminous yet light looks were made up of layers of mesh, wool and silk for suits, jackets and trousers that looked classic but also had streetwear cuts and sporty details. Elasticated hems, drawstrings, big pockets, patches, contrasting insets, zips and hoods merged into the tailoring, which included a bomber as well as a blazer. Sneakers were hyper-technical, becoming all the more irreplaceable for it.…

PARIS June 23, 2018 Hermès’ strength lies in its longevity, which is reflected in that of Véronique Nichanian, who has been the brand’s creative director for 30 years and is still able to give its collections gradual change that stays faithful to tradition because, as Pierre-Alexis Dumas, great-greatgreat grandson of founder Thierry Hermès, says, “you don’t have to destroy everything to change”. The new collection paraded beneath clothes hung on washing lines in the midsummer dusk. The casually elegant and exclusive clothes included soft jackets worn over bare skin, T-shirts with zipped side openings, blousons and polo shirts with zips - all teamed with various types of trousers from turned-up chinos to pseudo-track pants with drawstring and slit hems to comfortable though rather short shorts. A recurrent motif on jackets…

PARIS June 24, 2018 The latest co-ed collection from Humberto Leon and Carol Lim for Kenzo was conceived as an underground garden party with clothes and colours fit for the occasion. So, there were oversize volumes, glossy touches and flashy colours in the very first look – an orange nylon suit with soft high-waist trousers fastened with a drawstring. Subsequent looks had the same vibrancy. Shirts, knits and outerwear featured patterns, polka dots, stripes, checks or bold monochrome tints ranging from orange to electric blue in oversize shapes, except for a few lean tops. The creative duo is confidently guiding the brand towards hybrid tailoring, keeping the brand’s codes fresh, like the phoenix in permanent flight on some of the graphic prints. L’ultima collezione co-ed di Humberto Leon e Carol…

PARIS June 21, 2018 ‘We Are the World’, the 1985 charity single recorded by an American super-group, is not just the title of Virgil Abloh’s first work for Louis Vuitton but also a declaration of what his fashion for the French brand will be like: inclusive, multicultural, intergenerational. Beginning with the idea of white light hitting a prism and dividing into its component colours, Abloh developed a collection that opened with all-white looks and developed into a colourful palette of pastels, primary colours, neons, before touching on black and silver with a metallic poncho. The clothes were a hybrid of tailoring and casual, comfortable knits and jackets, fluid trousers, clean surfaces (except for a few floral motifs and a few reproductions from ‘The Wizard of Oz’), while holsters, harnesses, and…

MILANO June 16, 2018 In the underground car park of Torre Velasca, a brutalist tower block in central Milan, Francesco Risso for Marni showcased “imaginary Olympic games” populated by “a brigade of imperfect athletes… their bodies are vulnerable like Egon Schiele’s drawings. Because tenderness is stronger than strength. And what really counts is the love and respect and awareness we feel for our body, however imperfect it could be”. These anti-heroes walked the runway in oversize knits and shirts worn partly tucked into loose and slightly improbable trousers of all lengths, like a high-waist felted mohair pair that looked like children’s pyjamas. Oversize blazers, jumpers and nylon windbreakers were decorated with digital designs by artist Florian Hetz, while colourful sports shoes were sometimes worn mismatched. Nel parcheggio sotterraneo di Torre…

MILANO June 17, 2018 This was a collection dedicated to Massimiliano Giorgetti’s home town of Rimini and its carefree summery atmosphere, with the tourist looks the designer saw as a child expressed in a series of short-sleeved shirts, T-shirts and shorts covered with prints ranging from classic Hawaiian to florals to fruits, from stripes to tie-dye to neon monochrome in a whirl of bright colour. Giorgetti also reproduced prints of Roger Minick photos of tourists on the beach, while other pieces featured Japanese manga characters Mila & Shiro from the series Attacker You! because, in the end, the ’80s were the focus and that is when this designer grew up watching people from around the world on their holidays. Una collezione dedicata a Rimini, città natale di Massimiliano Giorgetti e…

PARIS June 20, 2018 The man Virgil Abloh looks to for his Off-White brand is a 17-year-old kid spending summer nights with his friends in a T-shirt and jeans, when not going topless with just a big chain covering his chest. This was a collection made up chiefly of T-shirts and jeans, the former in various sizes but mainly comfortable and with ¾ sleeves, featuring Bart Simpson or graffiti by Dondi White, an African-American artist who died of AIDS in 1998, and the latter full of holes, studded, faded and/or covered with lettering done in collaboration with Ev Bravado. The Rimowa suitcase-backpacks and bumbags complementing the looks were deliberately left empty because Abloh does not want to shoulder the teenage emotional burden. È ancora adolescente l’uomo cui guarda Virgil Abloh…

PARIS June 24, 2018 The biggest source of inspiration for Paul Smith is his own archive in Nottingham. A browse through his 48 years as an independent designer produced fabrics, patterns and colours that are still relevant today. So, in a scene dominated by sport and streetwear, Sir Smith stayed true to himself with his soft, slightly crumpled tailored suits and separates, long jackets with broad shoulders, comfortable trousers resting on two-colour loafers or irresistibly British patent Chelsea boots. Classic shirts alternated with polka dot knits, while photograph prints, one of the designer’s early successes, depicted holiday scenes from the past shot by Smith or his father. Zipped blousons, some with a hood, were more casual but the mood of the collection was tailoring because “this is about being honest…

PARIS June 24, 2018 In 1919 Lenin commissioned Vladimir Tatlin to build a monument to the Third International, but it was never built. Rick Owens drew inspiration from the episode by reconnecting to the legendary construction of another tower, the Tower of Babel - a biblical metaphor for human pride that leads to confusion and misunderstanding between peoples. The collection was about control and order in chaos and responsibility in hedonism. In the courtyard of Palais de Tokyo, amidst coloured smoke, his unsettled humanity paraded in ripped tops held together by tent poles, which reappeared later in a series of nylon parkas (the poles are sold separately). Cropped denim jackets and slim blazers paired with asymmetric denim skirts with built-in bumbag and extra-large trousers with side buttons looked decidedly easier…

LONDON June 9, 2018 Sharon Wauchob made her début on the London runways with her menswear line that, according to the designer, takes her back to her work experience in Savile Row while studying at Central Saint Martins. So it was inevitable that this collection included tailoring, but it veered towards the feminine with a vaguely retro feel. Shirts were wrinkled with large pointed collars and in some looks were extra-long and/or sleeveless, similar to a dress over trousers. Suits were comfortable with oversize trousers puddling over classic lace-ups or white sneakers. Knits were so thin as to be transparent while many of the looks had a glossy, almost sparkly, texture and a fluid lightness, further placing the intention clearly on ‘feminine’ menswear. Sharon Wauchob debutta sulle passerelle londinesi con…

MILANO June 16, 2018 Each to his own on the Versace runway, in other words Donatella likes to think that any man could find something for himself in this new collection. There was no particular inspiration; just lots of different styles, including an unexpected mix & match of garments and decorative motifs. A grey pinstripe jacket came with jeans and/or a T-shirt covered with logos and tabloid prints worn under a sheer shirt. Red python print was used in separates or total looks, including a fisherman’s hat. Floral patterns duetted with archive chain prints, jackets and bermuda shorts were in topstitched denim cloth, while a couple of tailored suits in acid pink and green were for those with a stronger palate. Anything missing? A ciascuno il suo sulla passerella di…

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