Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 2 2022 i Sew & Tell

Sew&Tell Issue 2 Hello and welcome to the second edition of Sew&Tell! It’s safe to say that if you’re reading this, sewing is probably a part of your life. Maybe it’s your livelihood, maybe it’s your meditation or maybe it makes up a small part of your artistic practice. Perhaps, like some members of the Sew&Tell team – gasp! – you’ve promised yourself you’ll finally learn to just sew something. Whether you are aspiring, accomplished or acclaimed in the art, we hope you find something to love within these digital pages. We were thrilled beyond belief with the love we received after the release of our first issue last year. You emailed to let us know you loved the articles, you tagged us on social media when you finished one…

CROSS THE LINE TOP Trace the front bodice of a top of your choosing – make sure it’s a top with woven fabric, not stretch – onto your pillowcase and cut it out (see Figure A). I used the top of Peppermint’s Bardon Dress pattern. ___________________________________ For the back of the top, draw a strap shape (see Figure B) where the bottom (Length Y) is equal in length to the side of your bodice and the tip is equal to the width of an individual shoulder strap (Length X). ___________________________________ To find the appropriate length of the strap, pin the front bodice onto yourself with some ribbon, scraps or similar (acting as the back straps), then measure the pinned lengths when you take it off. Use the average of those…

“I love the endless creativity and how a pattern can end up looking completely different depending on the sewist.” Tell us about your journey into the sewing world… My journey into the sewing world started when I was a child. My mother sewed clothes for me and my siblings, so we were all used to the sound of the sewing machine from early on. There’s a photo of me sitting at her sewing machine at about four years old. Ever since then, I’ve been sewing. As an adult, I’ve been blessed with the opportunity to work with patterns and sewing. I started studying patternmaking in my twenties and was hooked from the first day. What inspires your patterns? I like making patterns that are modern and fashionable and I’m inspired…

THINGS YOU’LL NEED Four lengths of macrame rope (this pattern uses 5mm cotton cord or rope), each 3m long. You can adjust this length as needed for a longer or shorter plant hanger. Something to hang the planter on as you make it – a stand, chair or nail in the wall work well! QUICK NOTE This pattern accommodates a medium-sized pot, but you can change up your knot placement for smaller or larger pots. LET’S GET MAKING! step one / / Hold your four lengths of rope together and fold them in half, so you have eight strings with a loop at the top. step two / / Tie a knot at the top, securing the cords together and leaving a loop to hang your planter. Tidy the knot…

Featuring an adjustable D-ring strap, two front fastening options and an internal pocket, it’s the perfect piece for peeps on the go. Wear it as a trendy cross-body piece or around the waist like the ol’ reliable bum bag. MATERIALS 0.5m outer fabric – A stiff or heavyweight fabric is recommended to help the bag keep its shape. You can compensate with iron-on interfacing if necessary. 0.5m lining fabric – This can be any lightweight woven fabric, a great place to use remnants or scraps. 1 pair of D-rings 2 pairs of snap fasteners or one cool button THINGS YOU’LL NEED Sewing machine Pins Scissors Fabric chalk or marker LET’S GET MAKING! STEP ONE / / Start by cutting out your pattern pieces. Cut out pattern pieces A and B…

woo-hoo! Download your free NERIDA HANSEN PDF pattern! This little number is designed with simplicity in mind to allow for the fabric print to shine. Nerida Hansen’s Half Sleeve Dress sewing pattern is one that is easy to make and comfortable to wear. Throw it on with trainers for daytime cruising or add a jacket and stockings to beat the cold. Remember to tag #NeridasHalfDress #NeridaHansenFabrics and #NeridaHansen with your makes. To redeem your FREE PDF version of the Half Sleeve Dress sewing pattern visit neridahansen.com.au, add the pattern to cart and key in the code NERIDASDRESS. This offer is valid until 1 March 2023. CODE: NERIDASDRESS DOWNLOAD HERE: neridahansen.com.au TERMS AND CONDITIONS: ONE PATTERN PER PERSON AND STRICTLY NOT FOR RESALE. THE CODE IS NOT TO BE SHARED WITH A…

For most of us, that thing is messy as hell. But a lucky few have created spaces so organised, so dreamy, it’s a joy to share them. We sent out the call and you answered. Check out a few of our favourite sewing spaces from Sew&Tell pals just like you! Emily Cox @PlumCo_ We recently moved into a place where I could set up my own sewing space and I’m very grateful to have it, especially after sewing on the kitchen table or the floor for the past few years. It’s my little haven and I love it! Shannen Burns @What.She.Made My sewing space is my favourite place to be! The large pegboard is the perfect storage and I had to have it in my favourite colour… pink. Stephanie Kong…

“Rarely does mainstream fashion listen to the dictates of feminists, but much like the tide of suffrage, the push for pockets could not be stopped.” “Thanks, it has pockets!” – the universal call of a woman complimented on her outfit. It’s long been observed, to the point of cliche, that women’s clothing suffers a serious pocket deficiency. We’re far more likely to be offered clothes with no pockets, comically tiny pockets or, worst of all, fake pockets – which carry only false hope and crushed dreams. So, what’s the deal with this strange sartorial sexism? How long have pockets even been around in the first place? To give a classic historian’s non-answer… it depends on your interpretation. Pockets either emerged in the seventeenth century or have been alongside us since…

With a few creative stitches, op-shopping queen Hannah Klose from Never Ever Pay Retail, shares how to take those tees languishing in the back of your wardrobe from basic to boujee. What you’ll need T-shirts (thrifted or otherwise) Sewing machine Sewing thread Pins Fabric scissors Power up If you want to elevate a basic tee into something a little extra, nothing makes more of a statement than a good ol’ shoulder pad! STEP ONE / / Thrift a tee in a slim fit with a high crew neck and wide enough shoulders to fit shoulder pads, and either a bra, bikini or ’80s top or dress to harvest the removable pads from! (Check the thickness of the pads – if you want to go for a super dramatic look, 1cm…

Kostner is a rectangular shawl knitted mostly in garter stitch starting from one short edge. The applied crochet chains in contrasting colours are added afterwards. Clean, finished edges are achieved with a two stitch i-cord. I picked the plaid pattern because it’s versatile: plaid can be modern and classic, subtle or lively all at the same time depending on the colour combination. This knit is easily accessible from stash – the only notable yardage needed is the main body colour. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Length with fringe: 175cm Width: 53cm MATERIALS Yarn: Six skeins of Beauregard DK by Plucky Knitter (60% yak, 40% cashmere, 274m – 100g). Three skeins of colourway Sockeye (MC) and one skein of each Good Jeans (CC1), Twill (CC2) and Wax Poetic (CC3). Or approximately the following amounts…

win! All subscribers have the chance to win fun goodies! Peppermint is an Australian quarterly print magazine focused on style, sustainability, sewing and substance. As a small, independent publication that champions ethical fashion, diversity, inclusivity, climate action, slow living, sewing and DIY, social justice and more, we tell real stories with authenticity, thoughtfulness and passion. Each issue is designed to give hope and empower you to live a more meaningful and mindful life. In this fast-paced world, we feature slow, timeless content that endures – so you can take inspiration from each issue for many years to come. • SAVE ON COVER PRICE • CANCEL WHENEVER YOU LIKE • FREE AUSTRALIAN DELIVERY • PAY-PER-ISSUE OPTION • SENT IN PAPER, NOT PLASTIC • NEVER MISS AN ISSUE • ONE TREE PLANTED…

This is an edited extract from Blazed Wax by Emma Cutri and Ruby Kannava, published by Hardie Grant Books, RRP $34.99. Available in stores nationally. Photography by Sarah Anderson. We love to entertain and share food together, so it’s important for us to have a candle burning to set the mood. Nothing beats cooking up a big feast, decorating the table with our eclectic mix of plates, glasses and candelabras, and then lighting some of our own beautiful candles. Taper candles are one of the oldest forms of candle-making. You can have a lot of fun creating these misshapen, hand-formed candles. We love them because they have so much character and are easy to make, and you can get really funky with colours and shapes. These will need to be…

SHARON CHOI @HalfSoybean I’ve attempted to make a suit blazer a few times and all attempts have been fails! Even when I’m following a pre-made pattern, I get totally lost and have no idea what the instructions are saying. It’s probably not that cool of a dream project but I’d love to be able to tailor a suit one day! JANELLE DUFF @RoseryApparel I’m lucky to be working on dream projects all the time, but if I ever had an occasion to make an over-the-top, ’80s-style prom dress for, that would be a lot of fun! LUDMILA GANCOVA @FiberArtByLudmila Twenty years ago, I lived in Norway for two years. It was a long time ago, but Norway is such a beautiful country that I have always dreamed about capturing it…

MADE WITH PRIDE Founded by Shannon Flaherty under the flag of building identity, community and resilience through making, SewQueer is a welcoming space for queer and trans makers with a penchant for all things sewing. The online community exists to “celebrate queerness in its many forms and envision queer futures”, encouraging connection through online sewing circles, speciality blog articles, queer resources and a shop full of rainbow sewing labels and cute-as tees. sewqueer.org STATE OF WONDER When it comes to sewing, we have a sneaking suspicion you might agree that choosing the fabric is the best part. So library cards at the ready… the Next State Print artwork library is a veritable treasure trove of online fabric browsing goodness! With everything from galahs to gingham and bananas to botanicals, your…

Coined by 26-year-old TikTok creator Lex Nicoleta, Coastal Grandmother is more than an aesthetic, it’s an aspirational state of mind. You are Diane Keaton in a Nancy Meyers movie; you are Jane Fonda in Grace and Frankie. You are mature, relaxed, thriving and financially stable (in the fantasy if nowhere else). The look is high-quality simplicity for the beachside sophisticant – minimalist and flowy with a hint of prep. Dive headfirst into the lifestyle with a splash of these sumptuous linens, nautical stripes and delectably soft merino threads. THE FABRIC STORE Oeko-Tex certified, ZQ premium merino in Moonstone (NZ$49/m) thefabricstoreonline.com DE LINUM Oeko-Tex certified French flax linen (133gsm) in Bondi Stripe (AU$26/m)  delinum.com.au ATELIER BRUNETTE Oeko-Tex certified 100% remnant viscose crepe in River (£20.23/m) lamazifabrics.com CLOTH HOUSE Heavyweight 100% Irish…

“I hope to inspire other young Asian people to follow their heart and their dreams, even if it goes against the cultural grain.” Tell us about your journey into the sewing world… I grew up with the sound of the sewing machine whirring in the background. My mum is a trained machinist and often worked from home. I didn’t realise how lucky I was to have been surrounded by this skill until I met other local sewists. I studied fashion at university and absolutely loved pattern cutting, so I decided to combine my skills and passion to create Make with Mandi sewing patterns. What inspires your patterns? I love high street fashion but want to make more unique styles by using fabrics I love and incorporating design accents of my…

“I couldn’t stand giving my money to companies responsible for exploiting people on the other side of the world, and getting poor-quality clothing. Being able to sew my own clothes has given me the freedom to choose.” Tell us about your journey into the sewing world… When I was a child, my dream was to become a fashion designer. I was drawing clothes and sewing dresses by hand for my dolls. I fell into the sewing world little by little but “officially” became passionate about sewing in 2009 when I joined a student sewing club to design and sew my first ball dress. Since then, I’ve never stopped designing and sewing clothes. Three years ago, I decided to turn my passion into a full-time job and created Camimade Patterns. I…

“In contrast to other art mediums, fibre art has a tactile quality that I love. The texture draws people in to have a closer look and wonder how the piece was created and what types of fabrics and threads were used.” How did you learn to quilt and work with fibre? When I was a stay-at-home mum, I was looking for a creative outlet – some stimulating activity I could do in my spare time. In a bookstore, I came across the book Landscape Quilts by Nancy Zieman and Natalie Sewell. I was mesmerised by the photos of stunning landscape quilts depicting forest scenes, still life, gardens and meadows. I could not believe that you could portray landscape scenes without knowing how to draw. It was an eye-opening experience for…

DRAFTING THE HAT This is a relatively simple pattern drafting exercise utilising slashing, spreading and geometry – it’s crazy to think our teachers wasted so much time in high school asking us about hypothetical cylinders full of liquid when they should have been teaching us how to make hats! You need to draft three pattern pieces: a crown, a band and a brim. CROWN Equation: (Crown measurement ÷ π) ÷ 2 = r Measure the crown of your head. Divide this measurement by pi (approximately 3.14) then again by two. Draw a circle using the answer as the radius, either using a compass or by tying a pencil to some string and pinning it in place (the poor man’s compass). BAND Equation: Crown measurement ÷ 4 = x Divide your…

“One fun side of sourcing is the weird and wacky things I find in the pockets.” Rebecca Rickard, a Ballardong Whadjuk woman from the Nyungar nation, was selling preloved pieces from her mobile vintage clothing truck back in 2018 when a new trend caught her eye. “I noticed people were doing some really creative things with denim jackets – such as using the back panel as an art canvas – and I thought it would be a deadly way to showcase Aboriginal art,” she recalls. After purchasing some bright and beautiful screen-printed fabric through the Injalak Art Centre and Bábbarra Women’s Centre remote art organisations, she set about finding the perfect thrifted denim jackets to adorn. After some encouraging feedback from a group of young Indigenous creatives, her label Deadly…

Activewear is a wardrobe staple for us all, so why not make it a style statement? We’re talking full on Olivia Newton-John, ‘80s revival, Margot Robbie on roller skates, Barbie-core realness. If you’re looking to make your own workout fits, feast your eyes on these funky fabrics. Fluoro spandex! Colourful carpet patterns! Pink and Aqua (like the band!). Hoick up some leg warmers and slap a scrunchie on that high pony – don’t just exercise when you can sweat in style. WEFT AND WARP UPF50+ recycled polyester and elastane in Candy Pink and White (AU$44/m)  weftandwarp.com.au THE REMNANT WAREHOUSE Nylon-spandex, two-way stretch in Crayon Scales (AU$12.95/panel) theremnantwarehouse.com BLUE MOON FABRICS Nylon-spandex, four-way stretch in Retro Neon Lights (US$19/yd) bluemoonfabrics.com MOOD FABRICS Tricot, 300gsm with UPF50+ and aloe vera microcapsules in…

woo-hoo! Download your free STYLE ARC pattern! Designed in Melbourne, this easy-fit, pull-on jumpsuit has set-in shoulder straps and a wide leg plus optional back elastic and in-seam pockets so you can totally make it your own. Available in sizes 4 to 36, it’s perfect for fabrics such as linen, cotton, crepe, corduroy or even a stable knit. Head to the Style Arc website and use the code below to download this pretty pattern now. Jump to it though – this offer is only valid until 10 November 2022. And don’t forget to check out Style Arc’s step-by-step tutorial for industry tips, tricks and techniques! CODE: SEWNORMAN DOWNLOAD HERE: stylearc.com TERMS AND CONDITIONS: ONE PATTERN PER PERSON AND STRICTLY NOT FOR RESALE. THE CODE IS NOT TO BE SHARED WITH A…

the dressmaker Described by director Jocelyn Moorhouse as “Clint Eastwood’s Unforgiven with a sewing machine”, this iconic Australian film stars Kate Winslet as Tilly Dunnage, the titular dressmaker, who returns to her sleepy country hometown to wreak havoc (and revenge) using the power of fashion. The costumes are abundant and extravagant, requiring two award-winning designers to split the load: Margot Wilson was dedicated solely to Tilly’s glamorous looks, while the dressmaker’s many creations were handled by Marion Boyce, the genius behind the sumptuous historical fashion of Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries. phantom thread Paul Thomas Anderson’s Phantom Thread takes us inside a 1950s London fashion house run with fanatical precision by the obsessive and controlling Reynolds Woodcock – played by Daniel Day-Lewis. Through tense dress fittings, immaculate embroidery and glamorous fashion…

Tell us about ModularME… ModularME is a fun, systemised approach to sewing your own clothes. It’s been designed to help makers “create clothes that make a difference”. We call our program a “sewing adventure” because making your own clothes, learning new skills and, in your own way, changing the world, should be an adventure! The starting point of ModularME is the simple top or dress pattern, your own “go-to pattern’’. You then combine this pattern with any of our 17 modules to create your own unique clothes over and over again! Why was it important for you to create ModularME? As a sewing teacher, I’m passionate about helping people realise they can make their own clothes and discover the joy of sewing! The staggering statistics around clothing waste and fast…

woo-hoo! Download your free NERIDA HANSEN PDF pattern! We challenge you to find a more comfortable dress than the Nerida Hansen Smock Dress. This is one that you’ll whip up, throw on, go and feel great. It’s an oversized dress that has been designed with comfort in mind! The Smock Dress sewing pattern is available from size 8 to size 20 and Alusha’s Smock Dress runs from size 16 to 26. Remember to tag your makes with #NeridasSmockDress, #AlushasSmockDress, #NeridaHansenFabrics and #NeridaHansen. To redeem your FREE PDF version of the Smock Dress sewing pattern visit neridahansen.com.au, add the pattern to cart and key in the code NERIDASSMOCK or ALUSHASSMOCK depending on which version you select. This offer is valid until 1 March 2023. CODE: NERIDASSMOCK or ALUSHASSMOCK DOWNLOAD HERE: neridahansen.com.au TERMS…

“I can’t tell you how much I love being part of the sewing community. Everyone is so kind and supportive.” Tell us about your journey into patternmaking… My mum taught me to sew when I was young and I’ve been sewing ever since. I guess that’s what makes it really special for me – the fact it’s a craft that my beautiful mum taught me. She had the patience of an absolute saint! When I started out, I would make clothes for my Barbie dolls. That’s still some of the hardest sewing I’ve ever done – so darn fiddly! Then I graduated to sewing for myself, friends and family – I even sewed my ball dress one year, it wasn’t the prettiest dress you’ve seen, but I did it –…

“We’re focusing on motivating, inspiring and uplifting kids, and sewing is merely the tool with which we’re doing that. We also want to provide kids with strong male role models, and specifically powerful Black role models.” Like so many of us, Melburnian Simon Turner found he was at home a lot more than usual during 2020 and decided to use the extra time for a creative pursuit. Having been gifted a sewing machine for his fifty-second birthday – he found his favourite shirts were too expensive so wanted to make his own – Simon enrolled in a beginners sewing course at the start of 2020. Halfway through, the course was cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic, but by that stage Simon was too excited about sewing to simply give up.…

ROSERY APPAREL FROM THE LITTLE ISLAND OF TASMANIA, JANELLE DUFF HAS FOUND A WORLDWIDE AUDIENCE WITH HER SEWING TUTORIALS AND HANDMADE WARDROBE – TURNING THRIFTED FABRICS INTO STYLISH MAKES. I started getting into sewing when I was about 17 years old. I chose textiles as my “fun” subject in college and we were able to pick our own projects and make whatever we liked. I have the best memories of that class, it was the first time I started making my own clothes. I decided to challenge myself not to purchase any new clothing at all and instead only made my own and purchased second-hand clothing for an entire year. I had a lot of fun experimenting with thrift-flips and garment-making to create a wardrobe that really reflected my style.…

We are not immune to the allure of overly specific online aesthetics. What good is sewing your own wardrobe if you don’t indulge in a little bit of dress up when your heart calls for it? Cottagecore is a classic – from Holly Hobbie to the OG Marie Antoinette, everyone seems to be on board with the romanticisation of the pastoral. Live your fantasy with these fabulous fabrics – a collection of earthy, autumnal tones with some floral flourishes, perfect for frolicking in the forest and making that milkmaid dress you’ve always dreamed of. THE STRAWBERRY THIEF GOTS-certified Tana Lawn cotton in Capel A (AU$60/m)  thestrawberrythief.com.au MERCHANT & MILLS Oeko-Tex certified linen, GOTS-certified dye in Bowling Green (£19.50/m) merchantandmills.com MAAIDESIGN 57% modal, 43% viscose, glossy jacquard leaf in Flame Orange…

WHAT TO PUT IN YOUR FINISHED KIT You can furnish your sewing kit with whatever bits and bobbins best suit your individual sewing style, but some good basics to start with are: Needles for hand sewing Safety pins Mini thread scissors Spare buttons Small spools of thread in common colours (black and white will get you through most things) Miniature measuring tape MATERIALS Pattern 1 cute button Single-fold bias binding (at least 40cm) Thread A sheet of felt 1 fat quarter of wadding Fabric – This kit can be made using less than a fat quarter of fabric, perfect for scraps and remnants from past projects! We would suggest using two different fabrics – one for the inside and one for the outside layer – but you can truly mix…

Hand sewing – or as people called it before the invention of the sewing machine, sewing – is a useful skill for anyone and everyone to learn. This is not to pit two queens against one another. Of course, none of us long to return to the days before our beloved speedy machines came onto the scene, but hand sewing still has tremendous value as a technique. Whether you’re dealing with fiddly, awkwardly placed seams or delicate, slippery, rippable fabric, the superior control that hand sewing allows can’t be beat. Plus, it promises the perks of portability. You can do it anywhere and everywhere; on the move, lying down, in front of the TV. It can also make for a more slow-paced, relaxing and meditative process than the clickety clack…

It seems difficult to imagine that sitting on a couch, parked in front of the TV, stabbing blindly at a wonky hem with a knitting needle could amount to anything resembling activism. Now, craftivism is more accessible than before. In fact, it has many unwitting participants. And although not everybody identifies with the idea of craftivism, perhaps in their own way, everyone who crafts is an activist. Whether they’re making clothes that fit or quilts for warmth, people use craft to shape their world and the ripples of their actions can be seen in their local community and beyond. We saw this in 2020 when Australia was ravaged by bushfires: charities were overwhelmed by the supplies crafted at home for animals and humans in crisis. We saw it again when…

SONYA RUFFLE SKIRT #DIYSonyaSkirt This skirt is one of my wardrobe staples and was the project I taught in my first-ever sewing workshop. It has so many potential variations and looks great worn super casually with a t-shirt or dressed up. Shorten it to make a mini, add an asymmetric ruffle, or remove the ruffle altogether and add a split up the back. PATTERN PIECES Skirt (Cut 2) Width = Hips ÷ 2 + 20cm (8 inches) + 2cm (3/4 inch) Height = Waist to knee (this includes the waistband casing and seam allowance; the finished length will be above the knee to allow you to walk properly) Ruffle (Cut 2) Width = Skirt rectangle width x 1.5 + 2cm (3/4 inch) Height = Knee to above ankle (includes seam…

Step into the night with these sleek, slick and sexy fabrics. Be the life of the party, the belle of the ball or make like a dangerous femme fatale and vamp it up (until people are slightly worried you might be an actual vampire). Just because we’re Good Girls Gone Bad doesn’t mean we don’t care about the Earth – sustainability is sexy, especially when we’re talking luxurious triple crown velvets, designer remnant sparkles and supple vegan silk. MINERVA Medium-weight, non-stretch, triple crown velvet in Wine (£13.99/m) minerva.com OFFSET WAREHOUSE 140gsm GRS-certified polyester tulle in Midnight (£29.99/m) offsetwarehouse.com CORE FABRICS Oeko-Tex certified metallic brocade jacquard in Black and Gold (US$32/yd) corefabricstore.com THE REMNANT WAREHOUSE Mid-weight (280gsm) 7mm sequins, one-way stretch mesh in Serpent (AU$24.95/m) theremnantwarehouse.com RATHDOWNE FABRICS Mid-weight (140gsm) cupro…

read THE POWER OF KNITTING Loretta Napoleoni Award-winning journalist and economist Loretta Napoleoni is an expert on terrorist financing, money laundering and… the power of craft? An absolutely fascinating woman with a fascinating book that explores knitting as an essential tool for the survival of our species, a means for women to influence history, a soothing activity to calm our souls and a powerful metaphor for life. Plus it includes 10 fun pattern projects! MAKE, SEW AND MEND Bernadette Banner YouTube superstar, historical fashion research royalty and brief proprietress of a saucy ankle pics OnlyFans – Bernadette Banner truly does it all. Here, she teaches the historically proven stitches every seamster needs whether it’s for making your own clothes, altering secondhand finds or extending the life of your favourite pieces.…