Innholdsfortegnelse for April/May 2019 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, I probably shouldn’t pick favorites, but I love sewing for spring and summer best. A change in seasons offers a new chance to be playful with your fabric and pattern picks and be a little more experimental. Spring is also a great time to change up your bag—and we have all your toting needs covered in this issue. Pick from a fem shoulder bag in a magical mix of linen and leather, a canvas convertible tote/backpack and a handy wallet made in durable cork. Did we mention cork is eco-friendly? Learn about other sustainable fibers, different approaches to building a wardrobe that works for you and how to create a variety of looks with accessories in the second installment of our “Sustainable Sewing” mini-series. If this series is…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue.When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due March 31, 2019. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. Meet the Ovo 150GT. It’s an iron. It’s a steamer. It’s both! But don’t be fooled by its charm. This portable powerhouse travels light and takes out wrinkles without taking up space. The Apr./May '19 winners will receive an Ovo 150GT from Reliable. Retail value: $49.00. Congratulations to the February/March 2019 Hide & Seek winners! We randomly selected five readers…

Gathers are very versatile. You’ll find them in garments such as skirts and pants, as well as home-dec projects such as drapes and tablecloths. In just a few easy steps, this technique can transform an otherwise flat piece of fabric into one with shape, movement and grace. GATHERS Gathering is the process of drawing a fabric length along a stitching line to a predetermined shorter length. Gathering is often used within the body of a garment to add fullness in a specific area, or incorporate ruffles or shirring into a project. Gathering is often seen on garments at the waistline, cuffs, yoke or as ruffles. It’s also used in home-dec projects, such as bed skirts and window treatments. Gathering allows you to fit a long piece of fabric (such as…

SN: Who has been influential in your sewing journey? TT: My good friend Lynn Lesher, who has made custom clothing for many country music stars and celebrities. She has a list of clients that is unbelievably impressive, and I am fortunate to know her and learn from her. She has a background in pattern making and can literally make anything. SN: What is the scope of your current sewing practice? TT: I sew all of my own pants and shirts. I have one sport coat pattern, but it needs some work before I make more jackets in that style. Currently I’m working on a jacket pattern that is more of a “chore” jacket or heavy shirt-jacket pattern. Eventually I want to make more sports coats and perhaps do more sewing…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Wrap dress & skirt patterns (such as BurdaStyle 4/2015 #122 & 2/2016 #115)• Linen fabric, lining & interfacing (amount according to pattern envelope plus 1/4 yard)• 27"-long invisible zipper• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Straight ruler• Removable fabric marker PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected patterns. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the patterns, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER From the dress pattern, trace a copy of the front bodice, back bodice, front neckline facing, back neckline facing, front sleeve and back sleeve. From the skirt pattern, trace a copy of the skirt front, skirt back, pocket and pocket lining. For wrap skirt patterns with…

BELL SLEEVE Bell sleeves add a touch of drama and are very easy to design and sew. The sleeves take on a completely different look depending on the chosen fabric. Select a woven cotton fabric for a stiff, exaggerated bell sleeve or a silk or knit fabric for a soft drape. Skill Level: Easy SUPPLIES • Long sleeve button-down shirt• 1/2 yard of coordinating fabric• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Removable fabric marker PREPARE Try on the shirt. Determine the bell sleeve placement, such as just above or below the elbow; pin-mark one sleeve. Remove the shirt. Mark the sleeve placement line across the sleeve at the pin mark using a removable fabric marker. Measure the distance from the sleeve lower edge to the first line; record. Measure and…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Woven V-neck blouse pattern (such as Straight Stitch Designs Leschi Blouse)• Woven fabric (type & amount according to pattern envelope)• Lightweight fusible interfacing• All-purpose thread• Straight ruler• Pattern or tracing paper• Removable fabric marker• Serger (optional) PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. DRAFT Trace the front and back bodice patterns onto new pattern or tracing paper; cut out. To create a facing pattern, position a piece of paper over the front bodice pattern. Trace the neckline edge. Draw a straight line 3” from and parallel to the neckline edge, squaring off the line…

Combine two durable materials—cork and waxed canvas—for a rugged convertible tote that’s built to travel. With a quick switch of the straps, the bag can function as a tote or a handy backpack. The bag includes a generous flap made from a single cork panel and embellished with dimensional cork flowers using easy-to-install rivets. The tote is fully lined with no raw seams showing. Recommended fabrics include canvas, waxed canvas, cork and heavier linens. Finished size: 13"×16" FIND THE PATTERN EXCLUSIVELY AT INTERWEAVE.COM/SEWING.…

RAE CUMBIE (“Curve Appeal: Sketch Your Style” — page 22) is the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns, which offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics that focus on fit and include artful design options. She coaches sewists of all skill levels, in classes and on her blog, to stitch up a fun and comfortable wardrobe and design more creatively. fitforartpatterns.com KATHY HEALEY (“Petal Pillow” — page 67) is a sewist who lives with her family in Rochester, NY. She owns and operates Healey Wear, a workroom that creates custom garments and home décor. Kathy also alters ready-made garments for her clients to give them a custom fit. healeywear.com MEG HEALY (“Pattern Play: Match Point Skort” — page 26) has a passion for sewing that led her to study Fashion…

Tune in for a little SEW & TELL! Find episodes of the podcast at sewdaily.com/sewandtell or wherever you get your podcasts. Join us in London this fall! We’ve partnered with Craftours to bring you a vacation of a lifetime. We’ll see the sights, eat and drink like locals, shop for fabric and more! Learn more at craftours.com. WHAT’S NEXT? LET’S GO ADVENTURING WITH THE JUNE/JULY ISSUE. WE’LL TALK TRAVEL CAPSULES, MAKE A DRAFT-YOUR-OWN KAFTAN PERFECT FOR POOLSIDE, STITCH A COOL HAND-DYED TOTE AND MUCH MORE. LOOK FOR IT ON NEWSSTANDS MAY 14, 2019.…

Creating gathers is a quick and easy process when following a few helpful hints. • To gather a fabric edge without a special machine foot, slightly loosen the machine’s upper tension and set the stitch length to the longest setting. • If the ruffle will be sewn to a project edge, hem the ruffle strip raw edge before gathering. • Once the ruffle is attached, stitch a second line between the seam and the fabric raw edge. This prevents additional strain on the seamline and helps keep the ruffle from pulling loose.…

Skill level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Shorts pattern (such as BurdaStyle #112B 07/2014)• 1 yard of 55"-wide woven fabric, with or without spandex (shorts)• 1/2 yard of 55"-wide contrasting woven fabric (skirt)• 9" invisible zipper• Fusible interfacing• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Pen or pencil• Straight ruler PREPARE If using a digital pattern, print, tile and tape the pattern pieces together. If using the featured BurdaStyle pattern, you will need all the pattern pieces. Measure the hip and waist circumferences to best determine the size. If using a pattern without a horizontal seam line, draft one by drawing a line parallel to the hemline just below the pocket opening on the shorts front and back. Cut along the line. Note: Don’t forget to add seam allowances to the cut edges…

Discover how to do a small and full bust adjustment to the wrap dress pattern. • If the dress gaps at the bodice wrap area due to a small bust, draft two small pleats at the neckline. Make sure to reshape the front facing to match (A). • During construction, stitch the pleats partially closed. • To add pleats for a full bust, draw the pleat lines as desired diagonally across the bodice, making sure they connect the neckline with the opposite edge. Cut the panel along the lines, and then spread slightly at the neckline while keeping the opposite edge continuous; tape in place. True the neckline edge (B).…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Double-breasted trench coat pattern (such as BurdaStyle 9/2012 #103)• Lightweight twill fabric, lining & interfacing (amount according to the pattern envelope)• 1"-wide elastic (amount according to measurements)• Buttons: eight 5/8"-diameter & ten 1"-diameter• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Straight ruler• Removable fabric marker PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER Trace a copy of the front panel, back panel, side panel, upper sleeve, lower sleeve, front facing, back neckline facing, collar and collar stand onto pattern paper. Align the front panel, back panel, side panel and front facing on a flat…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one pillow cover. • 1/2 yard each of 45"-wide batik fabric (main) & lightweight non-woven fusible interfacing (See “Sources.”)• 1/4 yard of 45"-wide coordinating batik fabric (circles)• 12" square pillow form• Matching cotton thread• Removable fabric marker• Spray starch (See “Sources.”)• Cutting machine or 2"-diameter circle cutter (See “Sources.”)• Serger (optional) PREPARE Apply the starch to the circle fabric following the manufacturer’s instructions. Fuse interfacing to the circle fabric wrong side following the manufacturer’s instructions. Cut eighty-one 2"-diameter circles using a cutting machine or a circle cutter. Press each circle in half with right sides together. From the main fabric, cut two 14" squares for the pillow front and back. From the interfacing, cut one 14" square. Fuse the interfacing…

Alder Shirtdress, Grainline Studio The Alder offers an updated take on the classic button-up sleeveless shirtdress. Fitted at the shoulders with plenty of ease at the hips, the pattern features two views/versions, including a straight silhouette and one with gathered side panels . . . which is up next on our spring to-sew list. Kalle Shirtdress, Closet Case Patterns We love the Kalle Shirtdress for its modern styling and cool design options: a deep curved hem, a covered placket, multiple collar options, drop shoulders and cute cuffs. There’s even a version with a popover collar and sleeves. The resulting silhouette is comfortable yet modern, feminine and strong. Gallery Dress, Liesl + Co. Minus the traditional full button placket, the Gallery Dress maintains a classic silhouette that is comfortable and perfect…

SN: What’s your best way to decompress? GL: I spend way too much time plugged in for work, so anytime I can get away from screens, it works wonders to help me decompress. I love to read, spend time with my friends and family or just get outside. I have found a new love for camping over the last few years, basically anywhere without cell service. SN: What's your greatest extravagance? GL: While our kids are young and still want to hang out with us, we’re making it a priority to take family vacations. It can be expensive and logistically hard, but the memories are worth it. So when the summer hits, I try to make sure we have a couple of trips planned. Camping is always included. We have…

Some sergers handle specialty techniques and thread better than others. Familiarize yourself with your serger’s capabilities and practice each technique thoroughly to get the most out of the machine and the best results. Specialty techniques are often a juggling act of manipulating fabric and several other components while also avoiding pins. DECORATIVE THREAD A wide variety of decorative thread looks beautiful and works well in sergers. Decorative thread varies in thickness, surface texture and fiber content. These differences affect tension and stitch length settings. Thick, coarse thread requires more room between the tension disks to feed properly, so lower the tension setting. Lightweight, smooth thread may require a higher setting. Make samples and record the settings for foolproof results. To prevent stitches from bunching up at the seam beginning, also…

Whenever I think “skort,” I always think back to my elementary school days because my mom used to dress me in them almost every day in the summer. The fashion style of a skirt but the functionality of a pair of shorts? I’m in! For the featured pair, I found a shorts pattern with a seam running horizontally around them and drafted a skirt to be sewn into it, and voila! A skort! To highlight the contrast, I cut the skirt pieces in a different fabric to make the shorts underneath more noticable as they peek through.…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one 101/2"×16" purse. • 1/2 yard each of linen & heavyweight interfacing or canvas• 1/3 yard of print cotton (lining)• 26"×30" rectangle of lightweight leather hide (approximately 0.6–0.8mm thickness)• 2/3 yard of mediumweight fusible interfacing• Matching polyester thread• Needles: size 14/90 universal & leather• Removable fabric marker• Walking foot• 3/4"-diameter magnetic snap• Binder or binding clips (See “Source.”)• Fabric glue PREPARE Download the Linen & Leather Purse pattern at sewnews.com/web_extras until May 31, 2019. Purchase the pattern at interweave.com/sewing after the expiration date. From the linen and heavyweight interfacing or canvas, cut four borders and two main panels each. Designate two borders as the facings. From the lining fabric, cut two main panels and one 81/2"×101/2" rectangle for the pocket.…

BLACK & TAN WALLET Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 13"×18" rectangle of cork fabric (See “Sources.)• 9" square of contrasting cork fabric (optional)• 1/4 yard each of print cotton fabric (lining) & lightweight fusible interfacing• 7"-long regular plastic zipper• Three size 20 plastic snaps & attachment tool• 1/2"-wide swivel lobster clasp & D-ring• Pair of 8mm-diameter double-cap rivets• Size 12/80 sharp needle• Matching all-purpose thread• Tailor’s chalk• Rotary cutting system• Binding clips (See “Sources.”)• Glue stick or basting tape• Readymade tassel• Seam sealant (optional) PREPARE Download the Cork Travel Wallet pattern at sewnews.com/web_extrasuntil May 31, 2019. Purchase the pattern at interweave.com/sewingafter the expiration date. Trace the pattern pieces onto the cork fabric wrong side using tailor’s chalk. From the cork fabric, cut one main panel, three card panels, one flap,…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Adult- and child-sized Up in Arms sewing pattern (see “Sources”)• 2 yards of lightweight cotton fabric (adult main and child contrast; see “Sources”)• 1 yard of coordinating lightweight cotton fabric (adult contrast and child main; see “Sources”)• All-purpose thread• Removable fabric marker• Pattern or tracing paper• Rulers: straight and curved PREPARE Download the child-sized Up in Arms pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras until May 31, 2019. Find the pattern after the expiration at interweave.com/sewing. Print and tile the pattern. Choose the child’s size based on the child’s age. Use the child’s high bust measurement and the chart at right to confirm the sizing; cut out the pattern. Choose the adult sizing per the pattern instructions. Use the box sleeve for the featured pattern. Note: The child’s pattern…

Many of us were taught to iron by a family member, neighbor or friend when we were younger. Note the term “iron”—sliding the hot iron in a back and forth motion to smooth out and remove wrinkles from the item you’re working on. When making clothing, you don’t iron—you press. These terms are often used interchangeably but really refer to two different methods. Pressing means just that: to apply pressure and heat to areas of your garments to smooth and flatten the fabric as you construct them. In garment construction, pressing is preferred to ironing. The back and forth motion of ironing will cause many fabrics with a matte finish to develop a sheen. PRESSING BEST PRACTICES There are best practices for pressing your seams, edges, darts and other areas…

WABI-SABI SEWING by Karen Lewis Create perfectly imperfect projects inspired by the wabi-sabi ethos of finding beauty in the ordinary and imperfect and repairing rather than discarding. Turn scraps of mismatched fabrics into beautiful quilts; extend the life of your favorite jeans with visible mending; embellish a linen pillowcase with sashiko-style stitching and enjoy the slow art of English paper piecing with this compilation of beautiful projects. interweave.com YOU AND YOUR SEWING MACHINE by Bernie Tobisch Learn everything you need to know to keep your sewing machine happy. This book is written by an expert sewing machine technician with over 42 years of experience with an eye toward being usable for any machine brand. Discover how your machine works, how to maintain it and how to troubleshoot common problems. ctpub.com…

Thanks to the athleisure trend, it's now fashionable to wear your gym clothes not only when working out, but with heels out and about! Recreate this trend by sewing up simple silhouettes in athletic fabrics. Add your own personal touch with a pop of color in the form of a patch or piping. The best part of this look is that it is multifunctional: Wear one outfit to run errands, brunch with friends, then run along to the gym—just bring different shoes! JACKET PATTERN Look for a bomber jacket pattern with a cropped hemline and large sleeves, both finished with ribbing. Bomber Jacket #114A 04/2017 by BurdaStyle TOP PATTERN Opt for a sleeveless top with a high neckline and meant for knit fabrics. TIP: Not into sleeveless? Use a sleeve…