Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2015 i SAVEUR

You never have to worry about a dodgy liquor store with this hidetanned American bison four-bottle “whiskey” carrier ($765; shop mulholland.com). It has a removable insulated nylon liner, so after you empty all those bottles, the bag can turn into a carryall. Manufactured since 1894, the Best Made Japanese Higo ($65; bestmadeco.com) features a “steel sandwich” of white steel encased in hand-hammered carbon steel. Keep this unique pocketknife in the glove compartment for slicing cheese, salumi, and fruit The BPA-free S’well ($25–$45; swellbottle.com) will keep coffee hot for 12 hours and water cold for 24, and is insulated to prevent condensation from forming on the outside . It’s available in dozens of bright colors and finishes. MASTER MIX Chef Edward Lee of nouveau Southern restaurant 610 Magnolia, in Louisville, Kentucky,…

We were called les belles étrangers: the beautiful foreigners. Twelve American writers brought to France as part of a cultural exchange delivering foreign literature to rural communities. After we arrived in Paris, we were paired off and given our assignments: One set was sent to Corsica, another to Nice, another to Marseille. I was informed, however, that my partner had hurt his back. I would be traveling alone to…the director looked at his clipboard. “Mulhouse,” he said. Pronounced “mool-OOZE.” Somewhere in Alsace. I was introduced to my chaperone—a pretty English-free Algerian girl named Sylvie—and off we went to the German border, to Mulhouse, a wind-harried industrial town once known as the “Manchester of France.” T ere I was introduced to the Provincial Librarian, a weary, bald, monkish man. I say…

RESTAURANTE CALDO DE PIEDRA OAXACA, MEXICO “Stone soup is a prehistoric dish made by plunging heated river stones into a gourd with water and seafood in it. On a road outside of Oaxaca’s center, there’s this restaurant— really more like a hut with no walls—that specializes in it. In goes the stone, and a few minutes later, after a lot of sizzling, you’re left with the most delicious, light seafood soup. Beyond the drama and the theater, you could kind of imagine someone trying to make it in a three-Michelin-starred restaurant.” —Alex Stupak, chef-owner, Empellón, New York City PARKER’S BBQ WILSON, NC “This is the best chicken I’ve ever had in my life. It was so good that, the first time I had it, I got up and asked the…

I bet you idiots didn’t even know that Jesus Christ was born in Uruguay.” Ignacio Mattos is on a roll, making up facts about his homeland and entertaining us with mock-rhapsodic commentary as we drive directly from Montevideo’s international airport to the first stop on our journey: Bar Arocena, a dusty snack bar near the beach. “There’s much you don’t know about these majestic lands,” Mattos says. Which is indisputable, as the itinerary he’s put together has been light on specifics. The three-day plan consists of a handful of bullet points, with activities ranging from “we could go here” to “maybe we stop at a bar in this area.” About this first stop, though, we are well informed. Mattos has been talking it up since we boarded the plane in…

Nobody does highway rest stops like the Italians. A drive along the autostrada wouldn’t be complete without an espresso break at an Autogrill. Photographer Melanie Dunea recently spent a day driving north from Bologna, eating solely at this chain of ubiquitous roadside super-diners. Her friend Gabrielle Hamilton, author and chef at Prune in New York City, turned her on to them, calling these culinary pit stops the “miraculous workhorses of the Italian roadways.”…

Gone in 60 Seconds SERVES 1 For this offbeat recipe, Sam Penix of Everyman Espresso in New York City treats iced coffee like a cocktail, adding peach nectar and lime juice to amp the beans’ citrus and other fruit notes. The bright, light, yet complex result is surprisingly refreshing and almost tea-like—something akin to a coffee Arnold Palmer—with no funky coffee-mouth effect. 5 oz. iced coffee 1 oz. peach nectar ¼ oz. lime juice, plus lime wedge for serving ¼ oz. simple syrup or 1 sugar packet Combine ingredients in an ice-filled glass or thermos. Stir to combine. Squeeze lime wedge over top and drop into glass. AeroPress Iced Coffee SERVES 1 Place ¼ cup good-quality finely ground coffee in an AeroPress; place over top of a glass filled with…

Lemon-Caper Tuna Sandwich MAKES 2 SANDWICHES COOK TIME: 30 MINUTES This briny, tangy sandwich, from Joanne Chang of Flour Bakery + Café in Boston, benefits from sitting awhile after assembly. The oils from the tapenade will seep into the bread, making it moist but not soggy, and the sharp flavors of pickled fennel, capers, and olives will mellow pleasantly. For the pickled fennel: ¼ cup rice wine vinegar 3 tbsp. sugar 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 fennel bulb, trimmed and cut into ¼” pieces For the olive tapenade: 1 cup pitted kalamata olives 2 tbsp. olive oil 1 ½ tbsp. minced basil 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. capers 1 clove garlic, minced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste For the sandwich: ¼ cup capers, drained…

Make the Quickest Pickles Ever With a couple of minutes and a handful of ingredients, you can make snappy pickles for sandwiches or a snack I’m all about pickles, but I lack patience—a disappointing combination, particularly when it comes to our delicious homemade ones (see page 33 for recipe), which take 24 hours to pickle. That’s why I’m a devoted quick-pickler. I’ve learned to make them myself with little more than sugar, salt, and the time it takes to put together a sandwich (like the ones in “’Wich Hunt,” page 28). For vegetables with high water content (radishes and cucumbers), toss 8 oz. thinly sliced vegetables with 2 tbsp. sugar and 1 ½ tsp. kosher salt. Ten minutes later, the moisture from the vegetables will create a natural brine. For…

Those of us who know and love Detroit consider it a kind of half-finished heaven. We favor its brawny, threadbare aura, its onion-and-mustard-spangled coney dogs, its rambling thoroughfares from a time when Cadillac Eldorados ruled the roads. The city’s lonely Gothic churches, historic Art Deco skyscrapers, and spacious island park are joined by a vast network of urban farms growing all sorts of delicious, fresh things in between swaths of concrete jungle. These farms, together with the city’s new restaurants dispersed in pockets all over town, make an urban road trip the best way to explore Motown. Start your cruise at Anthology Coffee (1401 Vermont St.; anthologycoffee.com), the city’s newest specialty roaster. The warm, airy café is stashed away behind an obscure yet quintessentially New Detroit spot: a co-working space…

“Traveling as much as I do, I always bring an AeroPress ($29; aeropress.com) . I make coffee on the side of the road, in airports, in hotel rooms, on trains, planes, you name it!” —Duane Sorenson, founder, Stumptown, Portland “I really like the new glass KeepCup ($30; prima-coffee.com). It doesn’t get the tainted flavor that a plastic cup does.” —Anne Lunell, co-owner, Koppi in Helsingborg, Sweden, and 2006 Swedish Barista Champion “Everyone loves the cool new Acaia Pearl scale ($129; acaia.com)—it sends data on weight and pour rate in real time to your smart phone as you make coffee. The quick-heating Bonavita travel kettle ($40; intelligentsia coffee.com) makes water for one brew.” —Stephen Morrissey of Intelligentsia, Chicago, and 2008 World Barista Champion…

April’s first fruits—sweet, juicy strawberries and tart rhubarb— combine for the season’s most thrilling pairing. Okay, technically, but only technically, rhubarb is not a fruit (it’s a vegetable), and, while we’re at it, the strawberry is not actually a berry (it’s what botanists call a pseudofruit). But together, this sweettart odd couple of vegetable and not-berry can be the stars, we discovered, in much more than simple pies. Strawberry Rhubarb Yogurt Pops MAKES 8–10 POPS COOK TIME: ABOUT 4 HOURS 15 MINUTES Chef Jen Yee at New York City’s Lafayette restaurant makes these refreshing and not-too-sweet icy treats. 1 lb. strawberries, hulled and minced ¾ cup fresh orange juice ¼ tsp. kosher salt 3 stalks rhubarb, trimmed and minced 4 oz. plain 2 percent Greek yogurt ½ cup honey, preferably…