Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2022 i Robb Report

“At Patek Philippe, it can take years to train our skilled specialists. It is one of the reasons we do not make more watches than we produce today. We are not magicians. At our family-owned company, everything we do relies on the skills and creativity of our people. Very human skills which cannot be rushed or replaced. Only humans can accept the challenge to always be at the edge of what is possible.” PATEK PHILIPPE SEAL PATEK.COM/PHILOSOPHIES…

THESE DAYS, the only real rule in menswear is that anything goes. Tweens are suiting up, boomers are collecting sneakers, and Brad Pitt recently hit the red carpet in a skirt. And while some of the more outre moves are best left to the professionally bold and beautiful, there is one longstanding fashion taboo worth reconsidering: pajamas in public. The entry of pj's into the light of day can be attributed largely to the pandemic. Days, weeks and even months of nearly uninterrupted time at home all but dissolved the line between “house clothes” and clothes-clothes, which gave many a renewed appreciation for finely made loungewear. Elevated pajamas have since turned up at the likes of Valentino and Prada, as well as on the backs of stylish dudes from Florence…

Of the design trends that have shaped the luxury watch industry in recent years, none has rivaled, or even challenged, the vogue for steel sports watches—especially those with a heritage from the 1960s and '70s. That subgenre is typically marked by integrated bracelets, distinctive silhouettes and a pared-down elegance associated with Gérald Genta, the Swiss watch designer who penned the era's most iconic models, including the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, a pair now even more scarce than they are sought-after, with numerous references still commanding two or even three times retail value on secondary channels. That supply-demand imbalance has created a trickle-down phenomenon in which watches with a similar look and heritage are now seeing a surge in interest. Chief among them: Girard-Perregaux's Laureato. The original,…

Luis “Panch” Perez The images seen in “Tyler, the Curator” (p. 138) are a joyful collaboration between hip-hop visionary Tyler, the Creator, and Perez, a director of photography. Perez, who has had a hand in the hip-hop artist's most iconic works over the past decade, aided in chronicling the rapper's role as a curator and collector. Most impressive? Perez was in “awe” when he saw all of Tyler's cars lined up in one shot. “It's pure joy working with T,” he says. “The mechanics of filmmaking can be frustrating leading up to the shoot, but once we are on set, it's like a kid in a candy store filled with possibilities.” Vivian Morelll Originally from Canada, Morelli uprooted her life and moved to Japan, where she regularly contributes to The…

In July, as host Stanley Tucci announced the winners of the World's 50 Best Restaurants during a gala event in London, chef Rasmus Kofoed's team sat in the audience holding hands—and their breaths. Kofoed's Copenhagen restaurant, Geranium, made its debut on the World's Best list in 2009, just two years after opening. Since that auspicious beginning, he has earned the restaurant three Michelin stars, been named Denmark's “chef of the year” and won the Bocuse d'Or, the esteemed international culinary competition held each year in Lyon, France. (He's also won both the bronze and silver Bocuse, the only chef ever to do so in the event's history.) It's an impressive list of accomplishments and accolades, but when Tucci announced Geranium as the World's Best Restaurant for 2022, it validated a…

Can't get your hands on one of the category killers? Retailers say these exceptional steel sports watches are still within in reach … for now. PARMIGIANI Tonda PF Chronograph Released last year, the Tonda PF introduced the brand's new aesthetic of sleek minimalism; this 42 mm chronograph features a platinum bezel in the Parmigiani's signature knurled finish. VACHERON CONSTANTIN Overseas With roots that go back to 1977 and the introduction of the famed “222,” the best-selling Overseas collection, revamped in 2016, boasts countless coveted iterations, such as this tourbillon skeleton. CHOPARD Alpine Eagle Inspired by the steel St. Moritz model introduced by the brand in 1980, the watch's rugged design pays homage to Switzerland's Alpine biotope and the majestic eagles that soar above it.…

Churchill 12-Piece Winder Safe, Wolf Those committed to bespoke tailoring will appreciate the look and feel of the Wolf Churchill 12-piece winder safe, which includes seven interior drawers. The crocodile-embossed bordeaux Italian-leather exterior is inlaid with redstitch detailing that will blend seamlessly with any wardrobe treasure. More importantly, the five-foot-tall safe is constructed from an armored-steel frame with a fire-sealed door that features nine bidirectional steel bolts and is secured with a combination keypad look. $104,995 Safe, Underwood Crafted in an Italian workshop, Underwood safes feature two-inch-thick armor-steel-plate sides embedded with internal welded-steel rods for maximum security, along with cement filling for extra heft. At 39 inches tall, this one weighs in at a considerable 770 pounds. The varnished exterior features a classic nailhead trim for a masculine feel, while…

SOME HUNTERS MIGHT be satisfied ordering firearms from a catalog or their local gun shop. But for those who take their rifles as seriously as their handmade suits, there's no place quite like London's James Purdey & Sons. The family-owned firm, founded in 1814, has grown to offer everything from tweed jackets to pen holders. But all these product lines spring from its rifles, which have been crafted and assembled manually via a labor-intensive process for over 200 years. In the Long Room, the heart of Purdey's showroom in Mayfair, examples of the finished product are displayed alongside ledgers containing orders from a long list of English royals, as well as sheikhs, sultans, czars and rajas—and plenty of dedicated regular sportsfolk. Purdey does stock guns that can be fitted to…

Style is never dependent upon resources, just as taste isn't determined by a price tag. The truly stylish, and those with intriguing taste, rarely begin developing their personal aesthetic at the point when their bank balance reflects their success. For Tyler, the Creator, two-time Grammy-winning artist, producer, director, composer and designer, the collecting bug that set in motion the eclectic nature of his passions and career started with, well, Hot Wheels. “I didn't play with toys much as a kid,” he says, “but Hot Wheels … was definitely my No. 1 collection. I had probably seven, and some I kept until my teen years.” Tyler Okonma, as he was known back then, is a professional chameleon. His past several albums have involved creating personas he inhabits for the promotional cycle…

@PAULCROUGHTON That such exquisite work is often undertaken on the smallest scale only compounds the awe with which we view exceptional timepieces and statement necklaces, particularly when you consider the years of exacting labor that have gone into producing them. You'll see magical examples of both among these pages. For a while there, Japan was a nation non grata in haute horlogerie. You know the story, I'm sure: The invention of the quartz movement by Seiko in the 1970s, soon adopted by Casio and Citizen, sent the luxury-watch industry into a nosedive from which it only just pulled out. Viewed through a longer lens, however, the emergence of these cheap, accurate and mass-market timepieces clearly forced the Swiss to reach new heights of endeavor and excellence in mechanical movements, enabling…

STYLE WHAT A GEM Emerald is as easy to wear as navy but feels decidedly fresher. It's an especially good match for casual fare, upping the refinement quotient on pieces like this suede shirt and hoodie. GREEN MEANS GO Want to give the classic combo of turtleneck and cords a whole new attitude? Swap in shades of jade and forest green and keep the look sharp with white kicks and a dark puffer. SEEING RED As elegant (and versatile) as black or brown, bordeaux is the shade of the moment for luxe accessories from bags to belts-even a phone holder. FINE WINE Claret, cranberry, maroon-whatever you call it, this deep-red shade is all over the fall colleetions. It's not hard to see why designers love it: Strong yet subtle, the…

IT WAS NO SURPRISE that Philippe Pascal, former CEO of Veuve Clicquot and the Moët Hennessey Group and adviser to LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault, went straight into winemaking after retiring from the company. What was surprising was his chosen location: Givry, a sleepy appellation in France's Burgundy region. Sleuthing throughout Burgundy for something special, Pascal and his wife, Catherine, found it in the overgrown vineyard slopes of Givry's ancient monastery, La Ferté Abbey, which had produced wine in the region going back nine centuries. Pascal, Catherine and their three children purchased the property in 2004 to create Domaine du Cellier aux Moines. “The vineyards and the monastic cellar were in terribly bad shape, but we realized that this ancient estate presented a unique opportunity to rediscover a star appellation for…

CASH IN, CASH OUT: Pharrell Williams is selling a massive stockpile of personal belongings, including the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak skeletonized perpetual calendar he wore in his 2004 “Frontin'” video and a Lorraine Schwartz 18-karat yellow-gold pinkie ring set with a 23.7-carat sapphire. And that is just the start. The auction, dubbed “Son of a Pharaoh,” officially launches the latest venture from the multi-multi-hyphenate superstar: Joopiter, a new auction site aimed at a crowd that appreciates a diamond-encrusted N.E.R.D belt buckle but expects the type of white-glove service found at old-guard establishments such as Christie's and Sotheby's. At first, the site will exclusively sell items from high-profile curators (mostly Pharrell's friends, who seem to consist of a who's-who of the singularly cool), but there's more—apparently much more— to come from…

Renovating a house without traditional walls is a challenge for any interior designer. But for Todd Raymond, the beams of a 300-year-old barn served as expert guides as he updated a Hudson Valley home for a pair of New York lawyers looking for a weekend getaway. Rather than conventional walls, “the beams helped create ‘corners’ in each space,” Raymond says. And this is the coolest part: The beams mostly don't touch the rest of the building. “They're set 100 feet off the walls,” he says. The barn was originally a Dutch structure that was first rebuilt in Vermont before being moved to Millerton, N.Y., between 2003 and 2004, where it was given new life by architect and Harvard Graduate School of Design professor Preston Scott Cohen. The lower-level rooms, from…

JOBY AVIATION + TOYOTA MODEL FIRSTTESTFLIGHT EXPECTEDCERTIFICATION OCCUPANTS RANGE CRUISESPEED ADDEDLIFT LILIUM + DENSO MODEL FIRSTTESTFLIGHT EXPECTEDCERTIFICATION OCCUPANTS RANGE CRUISESPEED ADDEDLIFT ARCHER AVIATION + STELLANTIS MODEL FIRSTTESTFLIGHT EXPECTEDCERTIFICATION OCCUPANTS RANGE CRUISESPEED ADDEDLIFT VOLOCOPTER + GEELY/DAIMLER MODEL FIRSTTESTFLIGHT EXPECTEDCERTIFICATION OCCUPANTS RANGE CRUISESPEED ADDEDLIFT EVE AIR MOBILITY + PORSCHE MODEL FIRSTTESTFLIGHT EXPECTEDCERTIFICATION OCCUPANTS RANGE CRUISESPEED ADDEDLIFT SUPERNAL + HYUNDAI MODEL FIRSTTESTFLIGHT EXPECTEDCERTIFICATION OCCUPANTS RANGE CRUISESPEED ADDEDLIFT MONEY TALKS “Mark my word-a combination airplane and motorcar is coming.” -Henry Ford, circa 1940 ETA: 2023 (First certified air taxis projected) NOSEDIVE Currently there are around 350 eVTOL companies with 600 concepts, but only a half-dozen market leaders are projected to emerge by 2030. To wit: Volkswagen's just-announced Flying Tiger is years behind the leaders, Honda's eVTOL certification isn't planned until 2030 and the Audi…

N O MATTER WHERE YOU GO in this great, big world, there's some form of local, indigenous alcoholic beverage to try, for those so inclined. It's not just about boozing it up, though-each specific spirit tells a unique story about the place it was produced through regional flavors, ingredients, production methods and the history and people behind each bottle. And while we all know about the backstories of gin in England, bourbon in Kentucky and rum in the Caribbean, there are fantastic spirits being made the world over that you may be less familiar with. So here are 11 from around the globe that offer a gustatory postcard from a specific locale, ranging from whiskey to brandy to gin to shochu. PROCERA BLUE DOT GIN There are several things that make…

A CLICHÉ, SURE, but it's true: One of life's greatest joys is sharing some of the finer things in life with friends and family. Heading downstairs to choose bottles that you lovingly purchased years before and aged to perfection for just this sort of opportunity is a rare plea-sure—not least because you know the pleasure it's about to impart. But, that said, we're also all for letting someone else do the hard work. So we went in search of the trophy wines. . . . CHAMPAGNE PIPER-HEIDSIECK 1982 HORS-SÉRIE After four decades of cellaring and hand-riddling, these 3,000 bottles were disgorged by chief winemaker Émilien Boutillat at the start of this year. It has lush mouthfeel, brilliant acidity and pineapple and toast flavors, plus the power to completely change your…