Innholdsfortegnelse for Summer 2025 - Issue 56 i REVOLUTION WATCH

At Milan Design Week 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled a captivating homage to its legendary Atmos clock with an exhibition titled Living on Air. Set within the historic Villa Mozart, this immersive showcase transported visitors through the evolution of a timepiece that defies the very laws of physics. Chronicling the Atmos’ remarkable story, the exhibition’s four thematic chapters — Genesis, Mechanism, Design and Complication — delved into the clock’s rich history, intricate engineering and artistic interpretations. The Atmos, first introduced in 1928, operates without manual winding or batteries. Instead, it harnesses minute fluctuations in ambient temperature to power its mechanism — a marvel of perpetual motion. At the heart of the Atmos is a hermetically sealed capsule filled with a mixture of gases (usually ethyl chloride). This gas expands and contracts with…

At Watches and Wonders this year, Rolex released the Land-Dweller, an integrated bracelet sports watch which features a new tonneau case along with a flat-link Jubilee bracelet. It comes in both 40mm and 36mm sizes across three metals, and is equipped with Rolex’s first-ever high-frequency movement, the Caliber 7135, featuring the groundbreaking Dynapulse Escapement. Besides being an entirely new model and an integrated bracelet watch from the Crown, the watch also marks a major milestone in both the history of Rolex and in the history of horology. It debuts a revolutionary silicon escapement known as the Dynapulse. This is paired with an entirely new balance assembly unit engineered with magnetic immunity in mind. Together, these developments represent a radical departure from tradition for Rolex, a brand known for its deliberate…

At Watches and Wonders 2025, Parmigiani Fleurier returns to its roots of simplicity and ingenuity. The brand introduces the latest iteration of the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, now featuring a lake-green dial that further refines its understated luxury. Indeed, the Tonda PF collection stands out among integrated bracelet luxury watches by taking an entirely different approach. Rather than being bold or attentiongrabbing, Parmigiani’s design is deliberately low-profile and refined. Yet the level of craftsmanship makes it clear that this is a true luxury timepiece. The new GMT Rattrapante exemplifies this philosophy. While its design appears simple, it offers a thoughtful evolution from the standard time-only model. The watch features two stacked hour hands that function as one when not in use. When traveling, a pusher at 8 o’clock advances the…

Much has been going on behind the scenes at TAG Heuer in the past few months, what with the new CEO appointment and management shifts at the LVMH Group. But the 2025 watch year promises to be an exciting one for the brand, and so far it has delivered on all fronts. TAG Heuer Watches and Wonders 2025 continues to push its key messages. The main highlights from the brand at the watch fair focused on further evolving the Carrera. It also took a nostalgia‑fueled trip down memory lane with the rejuvenated Formula 1 collection. CARRERA BEADS-OF-RICE BRACELET The 1960s were a fabulous decade for Heuer chronographs. Trusted on the racetracks and preferred by stylish gents, a number of Heuer Carrera chronographs of that time were paired with beautifully crafted…

To mark its 160th anniversary this year, Zenith unveiled the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135, named after founder Georges-Favre Jacot and housing a modern, technically upgraded version of the historic Calibre 135. Seeing it on the second day of Watches and Wonders, during one of my earliest appointments, I hadn’t quite shaken off the travel haze and was unsure what to make of the buffing files and gentian wood laid out on the side of the presentation table, but as soon as I saw the watch, everything snapped into focus. That it came in a platinum case with stepped lugs, that the dial was utterly striking, that the re-creation of this legendary movement had come with upgrades including a stop-seconds, a longer power reserve and a slightly larger balance, and that…

Grand Seiko unveiled a diverse range of timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2025, including two all-new watches developed from the ground up. The main highlights are the new 37mm Evolution 9 Spring Drive watches — the smallest timepieces in the collection to date, thanks to a newly developed movement designed for compact sizing and the innovative new Ultra Fine Accuracy (U.F.A.), which has a maximum deviation of just 20 seconds per year. EVOLUTION 9 COLLECTION SPRING DRIVE U.F.A. SLGB001 & SLGB003 The new SLGB001 and SLGB003 introduce a major milestone in Spring Drive technology. At their core is the newly developed Caliber 9RB2, the most accurate Spring Drive movement to date, and the most accurate mainspringpowered wristwatch currently in production, with a remarkable precision of ±20 seconds per year. Additionally,…

We’re only a few months into 2025 and despite whatever challenges the industry has yet faced, it’s been a banger year for Oris. January began with the ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition and was quickly followed by the Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Edition — two watches that perfectly bookend the last 60 years of Oris’ history, culminating in an era of, well, fun. You see, Oris has been undergoing a metamorphosis of sorts in recent years, culminating in a brand refresh centered around one core idea — its watches should be well made, intricately finished, and offer strong value to their owners. But above all else, Oris’ watches should make people smile. That is exactly what the brand’s Watches and Wonders releases for 2025 aim to do. BIG CROWN POINTER…

Felix Scholz Editor-in-Chief, Revolution Australia If I had to sum up my thoughts and feelings vis-à-vis Watches and Wonders 2025 in a few short words, I’d have to use the phrase “considered surprise” in that I was pleasantly surprised by how considered the overall mood of the fair was. I was expecting a more stripped-back offering — it’s the logical play in a time when the broader luxury market isn’t as exuberant as it has been in years past. And certainly, many brands showed restraint, but they stopped well shy of boredom. IWC is a great example. It was a pretty focused collection, with the Ingenieur being the clear star, and yes, there were a few attention-grabbing pieces. But the addition of a 35mm automatic into the family was a…

One of the oldest — and among the very best — watchmakers, Breguet marks its 250th anniversary this year, a milestone few can claim. More importantly, it gives the brand a rich archive of historic models to draw from in celebration. But the opening act for this anniversary comes as a surprise. The new Breguet Classique Souscription is not a groundbreaking, ultra complex watch, but a time-only piece. In fact, it is so simple it has just one hand. And it’s precisely that simplicity that allows the essence of Breguet’s watchmaking philosophy to shine through. The result is arguably one of the most attractive modern Breguet wristwatches. Modeled on a souscription pocket watch created over two centuries ago, the Classique Souscription thoughtfully reduces the size from 60mm to 40mm for…

It goes without saying that Van Cleef & Arpels’ jewelry making heritage is a subject thoroughly studied, mulled and obsessed over by jewelry aficionados all around the world. After all, the maison is unequivocally synonymous with some of the most iconic creations and important contributions to jewelry making. Alhambra, the Zip necklace, the Mystery Setting, the Ballerina brooches, La Boutique… These are designs that would stand resolutely on their own even without their prestigious maker’s mark. Yet over its 119-year history, Van Cleef & Arpels had been crafting more than just jewelry for adornment but numerous types of objets d’arts including timepieces too. Understandably, the maison’s watchmaking journey is somewhat lesser known than its massive accolades in jewelry, although it is by no means any less fascinating to the horology…

If the past couple of years were anything to go by, Rolex is one thousand percent more than capable of surprising the entire watch industry. Despite its vastness and completeness as a manufacture, Rolex is deceptively agile. The manufacture has also shown immense creativity not just in watch design but also in devising new technical solutions. After dropping serious hints with the help of Roger Federer via Instagram, the Rolex Watches and Wonders 2025 novelties are finally here. First thoughts on all the novelties: Innovation is in the air but that is hardly surprising given Rolex’s commitment to incremental improvements. Obviously the Land-Dweller is the biggest highlight of the year, and deservedly so. With a new case, new bracelet, new bezel, new dial, new movement, new Dynapulse escapement… all in…

At Watches and Wonders last year, Piaget unveiled the AUC Tourbillon, setting a record for the world’s thinnest tourbillon at just 2mm thick. But before that concept watch even reached production, Bvlgari has already reclaimed the title. The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon measures a mere 1.85mm thin, and its bracelet, just 1.5mm. It’s astonishing, though hardly unexpected, given how Bvlgari had already achieved an extreme blueprint with the 1.7mm-thin Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. While records are increasingly short-lived, ultra thin watchmaking, especially at such extremes and in a tourbillon watch, is a complication in its own right and always worth unpacking. Wherever you stand on wearing a twodimensional watch, the underlying technical achievement remains objectively impressive, and it’s fascinating to see just how far its construction can drift from…

IWC’s latest incarnation of the Ingenieur first dropped in 2023 to widespread rapture and adulation. The modern interpretation of Gérald Genta’s 1970s-era Jumbo SL models was a perfectly timed fresh face in the ever-popular integrated sports watch segment. That initial launch was pretty pared back, with only a handful of references, and scarce new developments in the Ingenieur space. Well, all that changed at Watches and Wonders 2025 when IWC opened the floodgates and showed just how versatile the Ingenieur can be. Of course, we had the black ceramic model, which eagleeyed fans spotted on the wrist of noted watch enthusiast Ed Sheeran. Then there was the F1 movie tie-in and the first complicated Ingenieur in the form of a hefty perpetual calendar, but the watches that I gravitated to…

Is it us or has blue ceramic found its way onto watchmaking centerstage? Either way, when Chanel does it, you know something major is on the horizon. New for the fashion house at Watches and Wonders 2025 is the Chanel J12 Bleu, a nine-watch collection immersed in a brand-new deep blue hue so intense it is almost black. So let’s talk about colors for a moment. Because Chanel is known for its perennial penchant for black and white. And the J12 collection was indeed conceived based on this elegant dichotomy of black and white. However, colors do make it into the design portfolio from time to time. Whether you’re looking at Chanel’s ready-to-wear, fashion accessories, haute couture or indeed its timepieces. The only thing is, every time Chanel considers mining…

In 2010, Van Cleef & Arpels debuted a watch that would, for many, define the famed jewelry house’s approach to timekeeping. That watch was the Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux and, from a technical perspective, it was a bi‑retrograde display with the addition of an on‑demand automaton module, developed for Van Cleef & Arpels by the legendary Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. This module allowed the two time indicators to meet in the center of the dial on demand, with no impact on the autonomy or accuracy of the overall timekeeping. Of course, if you’ve ever seen Van Cleef & Arpels watches, you’ll know that this dry description of the caliber and its function doesn’t begin to describe what the Pont des Amoureux is all about. More than the time, the watch tells…

What you will see in these pages, in glorious technical detail, are three timepieces heralding the rebirth of Urban Jürgensen. And they should tell you everything about the brand’s current owners — The Rosenfield Family and Kari Voutilainen — and their boundless ambition for their brand. For the seasoned collectors and horological connoisseurs, you may already know that Urban Jürgensen has achieved in its new watch, the UJ-1, what was once considered unachievable: the miniaturization of Derek Pratt’s Oval Tourbillon with cage-mounted remontoir d’égalité in a series-production wristwatch. With this, the brand has issued a clear, electrifying statement of intent that is, in horological significance, equivalent to the sonic boom announcing Chuck Yeager’s breaking of the sound barrier in his Bell X-1 over the Californian desert. This is a shot…

For this year’s annual edition of Franck Muller’s World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie (WPHH), the manufacture presented 13 novelty highlights, with a strong focus on Cintrée Curvex, Curvex CX, and Vanguard models. There was, however, a single collection that continues to build on the legacy of visual intrigue — the Mystery complication. ROUND TRIPLE MYSTERY Franck Muller’s “Mystery” complication pays tribute to the age-old tradition of illusion in watchmaking. First introduced in the early 2000s, the complication is inspired by 19th-century mystery clocks, notably those of French clockmaker Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, where hands seemed to float magically above transparent dials. In the case of Franck Muller, the Mystery watch reimagines this concept in a wristwatch format. The original model featured a single floating hour hand that appeared disconnected from any central…

Louis Vuitton first introduced the Tambour Spin Time in 2009, marking a significant milestone in its horological journey. The concept was revolutionary: instead of using traditional hour hands, the watch featured rotating cubes — each marked with numerals — that would “spin” to indicate the current hour. This playful yet mechanically complex design was developed in collaboration with the brand’s haute horlogerie division, which would later become La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. The Tambour Spin Time Air followed in 2019, refining the concept further by placing the rotating cubes on spindly arms suspended in space, giving the illusion that they were floating — hence the name “Air.” This openworked architecture enhanced the visual dynamism of the Spin Time mechanism, while also showcasing the growing sophistication of Louis Vuitton’s in-house…

The Berkley Grand Complication, introduced by Vacheron Constantin at Watches and Wonders last year with its 61 complications, set the record as the most complicated watch ever made. More than that, it did something supremely difficult, which was to encode the cycles of the Chinese traditional lunisolar calendar into a perpetual calendar that requires no correction until the year 2200. To mark its 270th anniversary this year, Vacheron Constantin has followed up with the world’s most complicated wristwatch — Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, featuring a total of 41 complications. Besides its sheer complexity, the watch is unique among highly complicated timepieces in that, alongside traditional complications such as a minute repeater with Westminster chimes, perpetual calendar, split seconds chronograph, and tourbillon, it has an unusually high concentration of…

It is no secret that the Chopard L.U.C collection represents the pinnacle of fine watchmaking for Chopard. The L.U.C manufacture in Fleurier devotes itself to the pursuit of watchmaking authenticity since its establishment in 1995. Today it produces some of the most original and innovative movements in the watch industry. Among the Chopard L.U.C 2025 novelties, one movement celebrates its 25th anniversary: the Quattro Caliber 98.01-L. Featuring Chopard’s patented Quattro Technology, it has four mainspring barrels stacked in pairs. Caliber 98.01-L delivers a massive 216-hour power reserve totalling nine whole days. Inside these barrels are four mainsprings adding up to 1.885 meters in length. Over the years, the L.U.C manufacture has evolved the Quattro Caliber. The latest version arrives in the new L.U.C Quattro Mark IV which presents the most…

For a collection that only had its start in the 21st century, the Big Bang has built quite a storied legacy. What began as a bold experiment in 2005 has evolved into a watchmaking playground of innovation, from material science to design, and even venturing into highly technical territory, an area the brand has paid tribute to this year. Says Hublot CEO Julien Tornare, “The Hublot Big Bang is undoubtedly one of the modern icons of 21st-century watchmaking. This year, we’re not only looking back at all that Hublot has achieved through the Big Bang, but also looking towards the future and all the potential it still holds.” As Hublot enters its third decade of Big Bang production, this exceptional collection stands as both a celebration of past achievements and…

If you want to know what Chanel watches are truly capable of, then I would invite you to look at the J12 Bleu X-Ray launched at Watches and Wonders 2025. This timepiece, marking the J12’s 25th anniversary, is a statement of the brand’s in-house competencies. First, there is the iconic design of the J12 — created by Jacques Helleu in 2000 and, since 2013, refined under the creative direction of Arnaud Chastaingt, a quiet, modest former Cartier designer of impressive ability. Second, there is the in-house gem setting, evinced by the electrifying blue baguette-cut sapphires set in the bezel and the mid-links of the bracelet, reflecting one of the core competencies of Châtelaine — Chanel’s watch and jewelry manufacture, which boasts a 25-person team dedicated to gem setting at the…

Seiko has been gradually reintroducing the King Seiko lineup in recent years with vintage-inspired reissues. Today, however, the watchmaker unveils a model that pays homage to the 1970s VANAC while bringing an entirely new design, marking a milestone in the lineup’s modern revival. With a new case, dial and bracelet, the King Seiko VANAC also comes with a new movement offering a three-day power reserve. REFINED DESIGN, VIBRANT COLORS The original VANAC was a bold and playful watch when it debuted in the 1970s, known for its striking case, vibrant dial and multifaceted crystal. Today, it returns with a more refined approach, enhancing its versatility while retaining its distinctive character. The new King Seiko VANAC remains a capable timepiece, carrying over key elements like the faceted case, integrated bracelet and…

Following the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu, a unique creation with a tantalum case and bracelet made for Only Watch 2024, F.P. Journe has now introduced the production version as part of the lineSport collection. The Chronomètre Furtif is unique for an F.P. Journe watch; it is, as its name suggests, designed to be furtive in a number of ways. The dial is rendered such that the time can only be read when viewed straight on, making it, to some extent, visible only to the wearer. It is also furtive in the sense that two of its complications — the power reserve and moonphase display — are hidden on the reverse, so it appears as a time-only watch. Finally, especially in the production version, it is furtive in a more ironic way.…

Long before jazz legend Duke Ellington made the Cartier Tank à Guichets a signature of his style in the 1930s — an era defined by effortless cool and avantgarde tastes — the concept of a “digital” mechanical watch had been centuries in the making. According to horological lore, its origins trace back to 1656, when the Campani brothers created the first wandering hour clock for Pope Alexander VII. The Pope’s request was simple: a silent clock that wouldn’t disrupt his sleep. The brothers delivered a masterpiece — an oil lamp illuminated the rotating numerals, making the time visible even in the dark. These clocks weren’t just functional but artistic marvels that showcased elaborate designs featuring motifs such as flowers and foliage, mythological figures, angels and other religious imagery. As an…