Innholdsfortegnelse for Spring 2025 - Issue 55 i REVOLUTION WATCH

I write this Founder’s Note on “The Future of Analog Watches in the Era of A.I.” just a few days after DeepSeek R1 decimated the NASDAQ and I watched the 24-year-old multi-billionaire Alexandr Wang, founder of Scale A.I., discuss the future of the now much-closer-than-realized China-U.S. A.I. arms race. Curious about DeepSeek, I decided to ask it to explain to me how a mechanical watch worked, but in the voice of an inner city teenager. The result was actually really impressive. I especially liked how it drew an analogy between the gear train of a watch and “the squad passing the ball down the court, transferring that energy.” But the thing is, “If the energy kept flowing, the watch would be crazy fast… so to keep it chill there’s this…

Some things are just… special. Sometimes you don’t even need hands-on experience with something to know it has the X factor — your gut senses it from the beginning. This happened in 2023 when Rolex surprise-released the Daytona “Le Mans” to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the legendary 24 Hours of Le Mans race. And it was quite possibly one of the most special Rolexes of our time. The modernized “Paul Newman” dial, a new movement with a 24-hour chronograph instead of 12-hour one, an exhibition caseback, and even a red “100” on the tachymeter scale around the bezel, signified something extremely special… and we all knew it (and knew how much of a pain these would invariably be to get hold of). Meanwhile, shortly after Rolex released this absolute…

At the risk of sounding emotionally fragile… OK, who am I kidding? Anyone that’s ever sat next to me on a plane knows that as soon as I start watching any movie featuring a dog, I start crying uncontrollably… The truth is that I can’t stand good-byes. I’ve always hated them. That’s why at farewell parties I always enact my signature “French exit,” meaning that I head straight for the door. No hugging. No kissing. No bumping of fists. No adieu. Not even a backward glance, lest I become overwhelmed with emotion. Because, while I might not be the most popular guy in the world, I take my friendships very seriously. It was for this reason I turned down AP’s invite to the launch of its Travis Scott watch in…

It is now a tradition for Parmigiani that, at the end of the year, the house unveils a no-expense-spared watch, typically a unique piece, to celebrate the birthday of its founder, which falls in early December. Last year, we are treated to one of the most intriguing debuts in recent memory, the L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse, a minute repeater that stays true to its concept — to tell time solely by sound. It does so in a playful manner, forgoing a traditional dial at the front and transforming it into a canvas for métiers d’art. THE CHIMES OF PARMIGIANI It’s uncommon for a watchmaker, especially a brand, to debut an entirely new case and dial design, particularly for a limited run or unique piece. It often doesn’t make commercial sense, or…

Here’s a new Speedy that doesn’t need to travel into boundless space but is meant for traversing the earth’s skies. Omega describes its new pilot’s watch as “a contemporary tribute to the original 1957 Speedmaster.” This model, in 40.85mm, comes in a matte finished stainless steel case that frames a grained matte black dial with vibrant orange accents. The subdial at 3 o’clock mirrors a cockpit’s burn rate indicator while small seconds are read at 9 o’clock, with a target/sight aesthetic similarly inspired by the cockpit of a plane and featuring a varnished matte yellow hand and artificial horizon in blue. OMEGA’S FLIGHT HISTORY Omega’s association with aviation dates back to World War II when it supplied over 110,000 timepieces to Britain’s Ministry of Defence. These watches, including the iconic…

Bvlgari’s focus on the Serpenti collection has intensified in 2025, marked by the introduction of the new Lady Solotempo micro automatic-winding movement, which powers the latest Serpenti Tubogas and Serpenti Seduttori timepieces revealed at LVMH Watch Week. Prior to that, the brand’s signature serpentine energy had also taken center stage in an elaborate exhibition in Shanghai, with the launch of the Serpenti Infinito high jewelry collection. But perhaps the most stunning revelation of all has been the unexpected reunion of Bvlgari and MB&F to reimagine the iconic Serpenti collection as a bold and highly technical timepiece for men. In a dramatic transformation brought to life by two of the finest minds in watch design, the serpentine motif morphs into a steampunk Horological Machine: Welcome the Bvlgari × MB&F Serpenti. THE…

Have you heard of the Dunning-Kruger effect? The Dunning-Kruger effect is a kind of cognitive bias in which people with limited competence in a particular domain overestimate their abilities, sometimes known as “illusory superiority.” This might already remind you of someone you know, but there is actually a second part that is even more interesting. The Dunning-Kruger effect can be mapped out on a graph depicting knowledge acquisition where the horizontal axis measures competence, from knowing nothing to guru level, and the vertical axis measures confidence, beginning from zero all the way to high. Google it. You’ll see how the path of knowledge acquisition starts by shooting upwards like an almost vertical climb, reaching peak confidence at a point humorously called “Mount Stupid” before — and this is important —…

Fashion and contemporary art have always been close bedfellows, but what Louis Vuitton and renowned Japanese artist Takashi Murakami have jointly achieved, is far more than a mere creative collaboration. What they have is a true partnership that began from a groundbreaking moment in the fashion and art world, which ultimately came to define an entire generation. Till today, the Monogram Multicolore, Cherry Blossom, Panda, Cerises, MOCA Hands, Monogramouflage and Cosmic Blossom have remained coveted collectibles among the fashion-forward set. And in the blink of an eye, it has been more than 20 years since Murakami has imbued countless Louis Vuitton classics with his delightfully imaginative and colorful aesthetic. This playful spirit reached all-new heights this year as the maison pays a worthy multi-chapter tribute to this amazing partnership, the…

Throughout the watch industry, there is only one company that has all but dedicated its entire history, its entire existence, to the world of motor racing, and that spent its formative years nurturing a lifelong passion for motorsport. That company is TAG Heuer — or Heuer, as it was known during its early years making precision timekeepers that were designed to aid in the recording of distance, speed and time onboard automobiles and aircraft, as well as pocket watches and, later on, wristwatches. From the mid-19th century through the 20th century and now well into the 21st century, TAG Heuer has poured its heart and soul into the quest for timekeeping precision. A perpetual quest it is indeed, but nonetheless one that the company relishes with every new timepiece it…

It’s a big year for Audemars Piguet. In 2025, the prestigious “holy trinity” brand celebrates its 150th anniversary — and it is pulling out all the stops. The big news is the release of the brand-new perpetual calendar movement, Caliber 7138, which powers the new Royal Oak and Code 11.59 watches that have been covered by our founder, Wei Koh, in his article. But this trilogy of big-ticket releases aren’t the only complicated offerings Audemars Piguet has made for its first semester releases. There’s also an openworked perpetual calendar paying tribute to an outgoing favorite, and a smallscale tourbillon that makes a big impact. ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR “150TH ANNIVERSARY” OPENWORKED In many ways, you could consider this stunning swan song for the Caliber 5135 the companion piece to last…

Anyone who has a passion for diving would understand and appreciate how magnificent the dive sites around the Philippines are. Essentially an archipelago, the Philippines consists of over 7,000 islands located between the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean, all of which provides some of the best dive experiences on our planet. However, this unique geographical makeup is only part of the reason behind the incredible biodiversity of the marine ecosystem here. The other reason has to do with the sheer remoteness of many of these dive sites. And while that helps keep the reefs and beaches unspoiled by tourism, it also makes the areas that much harder to study, understand or conserve. For this reason, Blancpain co-founded the Sulubaaï Environmental Foundation (SEF) which dedicates its efforts to restoring…

An orrery of any scale is a fascinating feat, especially when it’s scaled down to a wristwatch. The creation is lauded not just for its technical difficulty, but from its connection to humanity’s enduring intrigue with the cosmos. For more sophisticated astronomical complications, the craft originated in the Middle Ages as seen in astronomical clocks in European town squares, with the first portable astronomical watches appearing in the 16th century. These early pieces often displayed zodiac signs, lunar cycles and solar movements, reflecting both the scientific understanding and astrological beliefs of the time. While modern technology has made celestial tracking more accessible, certain astronomical displays in mechanical watches are valued as artistic expressions of human ingenuity in miniature form. Case in point: Bell & Ross’s new BR-03 Astro. This departure…

Of all the major technical innovations in watchmaking history, my favorite has to be the remontoir d’égalité. With the unveiling of the revitalized Urban Jürgensen’s extraordinary UJ‑1, which introduces Derek Pratt’s tourbillon with a cage‑mounted Reuleaux triangle remontoir to a serially produced wristwatch, it seems that the remontoir is finally about to have its day in the sun. For many years, despite being far more historically significant and playing a crucial role in the creation of John Harrison’s H4, the first successful marine chronometer that eventually enabled man’s conquest of the oceans, the remontoir has flown much more under the radar than a complication like the tourbillon. Says watchmaker Bart Grönefeld, “Part of this is that the remontoir is harder to understand. With a tourbillon, you can see the cage…

Antoine Pin is exactly where he should be, after a two-decade-long peripatetic sojourn that had him working at numerous brands. He began his career at TAG Heuer, then moved on to the jeweler Boucheron, Zenith during the Thierry Nataf era, Berluti and Bvlgari — until he was, at long last, reunited with his first love, TAG Heuer. His passion for TAG Heuer in this moment of reunion is intense — on a scale worthy of Gabriel García Márquez’s Love in the Time of Cholera, or an Orpheus and Eurydice epic. And even better, he knows exactly how to channel it, with neither a shadow of indecision nor an iota of doubt, transforming the emotion into a bold and inspiring vision for the future of TAG Heuer. At the season-opening Formula…

Cheryl Chia One of the greatest technical minds in luxury watch journalism today, Cheryl Chia is a renowned watch writer with a deep interest in specialist topics such as independent watchmaking, movement engineering and decoration. Contrary to popular sentiment, she believes that watches can be assessed objectively in terms of complexity, quality and finishing. Oliver R Müller Oliver R Müller is the founder of LuxeConsult, an independent agency that helps create or reposition brands in the watch industry. He is also foremost recognized as the primary contributor of the annual Morgan Stanley x LuxeConsult Swiss watch report, a valuable resource relied on by the entire industry. Thor Svaboe Thor Svaboe is a seasoned writer on watches. He contributes to several international publications, including Wallpaper Magazine, Oracle Time, British GQ and…

As the maison that dwarfs all others within Richemont, Cartier is far and away the single most powerful hard luxury brand in the world. No other brand has managed to simultaneously dominate the jewelry and watch market like Cartier. No other brand has managed to simultaneously captivate the watch and jewelry lover like Cartier. A Forbes list of 100 most valuable brands in 2020 ranked the maison at 56th place, valued at USD12.2B and generating an estimated annual revenue of USD6.2B. There was no other jewelry maison on the list apart from Cartier, and that was in 2020. Much has evolved in the five years since and Cartier has unequivocally demonstrated its incredible range within the hard-luxury category. Just last week, Richemont posted amazing Q3 results. A solid +10% growth…

Hermès is going from strength to strength as a watchmaker, defining its own rules in haute horlogerie and picking up numerous industry accolades along the way. Through unique, whimsical complications and artful displays of time, the maison has also captured the minds of the collectors who were previously focused on traditional Swiss brands while holding off multiple group buyout offers, garnering strong industry respect. Having just closed the previous year with sterling results, 2025 has all the markings of a strong year for the brand, as Hermès is not resting on its horological laurels. ARCEAU L’HEURE DE LA LUNE First unveiled in 2019, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune instantly won over the horology set with its richly poetic display of the twin moons. It now comes in three new…

Last year, Bremont, under the leadership of freshly minted CEO Davide Cerrato, ruffled plenty of feathers. The proudly British brand made its Watches and Wonders debut with fresh branding, a new strategy and a suite of new watches, with the fieldwatch-inspired Terra Nova being the star of the show. All up, this represents a lot of change for a famously slow-moving industry — one which can get worked up over a new bezel color — and the internet reacted, well, predictably. Fortunately, time heals all drama, and over the last 12 months, we’ve begun to see Bremont roll out its new vision, and in many cases, it looks pretty good. There have been new ceramic Supermarine watches that feel fresh, and over on the Terra Nova, there’s been a very…

To mark its 20th anniversary last year, Greubel Forsey unveiled the latest of its EWT (Experimental Watch Technology) inventions, the Nano Foudroyante EWT, an extremely sophisticated chronograph tourbillon with a foudroyante display. Limited to just 11 pieces, the Nano Foudroyante is the most compact watch ever produced by Greubel Forsey, measuring 37.9mm wide. It represents a series of firsts for Greubel Forsey: its first chronograph, its first flying tourbillon, and a horological first — the first-ever carriage-mounted foudroyante. The case, crafted from white gold and tantalum, also marks the brand’s first use of the highly demanding metal. A foudroyante, or lightning seconds, is a complication in a watch that displays fractions of a second. While it is sometimes found in high-frequency chronographs, the two are distinct. A high-frequency chronograph improves…

The watch industry thrives on emotion and one of the strongest is nostalgia, which is baked into the storytelling of any watch brand that’s been around long enough to have any sort of history at all. The question of longevity can be a very loaded one, as a natural question which occurs, I think, fairly early on to enthusiasts and collectors, is which brand has been around the longest. As history is full of ups and downs, the answer is not always entirely clear. For the record, I think Vacheron Constantin has the strongest claim as it has been, with name changes and variations in governance, around and producing watches since 1755 when Jean-Marc Vacheron set up in Geneva. Obviously there has been watchmaking in Switzerland for longer than that,…

At IAMWATCH 2024, Emmanuel Esposito was surrounded by watchmakers. For once he wasn’t the biggest star in the room — unless the conversation shifted onto knives, of course. The self-taught maker of handcrafted knives could write a book on the topic, and everything would be a personal anecdote of some sort. And he is only 42 years old. His daily routine involves handcrafting intricate mechanisms, working on traditional decorative techniques and creating new inventions, just like in haute horlogerie. HOW DID YOU GET INTO KNIFEMAKING? When I started out, I was 14 going on 15, so I was still quite inexperienced with a lot to learn. I started with knives that people actually use, like hunting knives, which are a lot more simple than the kind I make now. At…

On March 7, 2025, Jean-Pierre Hagmann died at the age of 84. His passing was a huge loss to the world of horology. Although he may not be a household name, he was the world’s most gifted individual case maker, with a talent we may never see again. For collectors of fine Swiss watches, to see the initials JHP on a case is like finding the holy grail: an added value indicating that the case was designed and made by the hands of a craftsman, not a machine. Born in 1940 to Swiss German parents, Hagmann led a life that was anything but ordinary. From birth, he was hard of hearing and had to attend special schools. It is ironic that such a disability did not prevent him from becoming…

One of the most remarkable aspects of Grand Seiko is how many of its manufacturing processes remain intrinsically manual. From the hands and dial to the case and movement assembly, each aspect of watchmaking is treated with exceptional care. We got to witness this firsthand at the Seiko Epson facility in Shiojiri, Nagano Prefecture. Within its walls lies the Shinshu Watch Studio, where Spring Drive, 9F quartz, and the Micro Artist Studio operate side by side. Each represents a different facet of Grand Seiko’s technical and aesthetic expression, and while such variety might seem conflicting elsewhere, here it feels natural, integrated by a shared pursuit of excellence. The space itself is telling; it feels raw and lived in. It hums with activity. It is not a showpiece of modernity, but…

THE EXHIBITION HAS BEEN RUNNING FOR NEARLY TWO MONTHS. HOW HAS THE REACTION BEEN? We’ve been overwhelmed by the response. We’re thrilled as we wanted to create an exhibition that would blow visitors away, in terms of the physical beauty of the objects and the fascinating stories behind them. We tried to include something for everybody, whether you are new to Cartier or a lifelong expert, a watch aficionado or a jewelry nut. HOW DID YOU GET INVOLVED WITH THE EXHIBITION AND AT WHAT STAGE? Cartier and the V&A have been in discussions for a decade. I joined as co-curator in October 2023 when the exhibition narrative that traces how Cartier became a global powerhouse started to take shape. We then went full steam ahead in terms of detective work…