PUTTING ASIDE snacks best served frigid—ice cream, anyone?—fresh food generally beats stuff from the icebox. Still, with surges in megastores, online shopping, and specialized diets, we’re downing more frozen shrimp, pizzas, meals, and ingredients than ever. In 2020, US freezer aisle sales grew 20 percent, and forecasters predict more momentum over the next five years.
Despite our appetite for Tater Tots, extreme cold takes its toll: Ice creates crystals that rupture cell walls, leaking nutrients and flavor and ruining texture. The slower the chill sets in, the larger the crystals and the worse the outcome. Such was the case before the 1920s, when biologist Clarence Birdseye (yes, the same as Birds Eye) offered up a technique inspired by the Inuit of Labrador. On an expedition, he had seen fish freeze solid…