Innholdsfortegnelse for Juillet - Aout 2022 i Paris Capitale

CARGO Cargo is back on the bank of the Seine at the Port de Bercy, with its spacious, luxuriant terrace. The bar is also a lively artistic and musical venue. Concerts and DJ sets create an ambience that changes from evening to evening and ranges from house to funk or disco. There are a dance floor and a chill-out zone where you can recover before partying again. And whether you just fancy a mouthful or two or a feast, Cargo is partnered by Lovine’s, a well-known pizza restaurant. ■ Cargo. Open until October 30. 1, port de Bercy Aval, 12th. GROUND CONTROL Ground Control looks like a small town. In and around a former mail sorting office belonging to France’s national rail company, you can enjoy food and drink, visit…

Despite its name, the Pont-Neuf (‘new bridge’) is actually the oldest in Paris. A great deal of water has flowed under its span since it was built between the 16th and 17th centuries, benefiting from an architectural leap forward. For the first time, stone was used instead of wood and the bridge was an open structure with no buildings on it and ‘true’ sidewalks. In 1985, the artist Christo turned it into a masterpiece when he wrapped it. Then, last year, the 238-meter structure was in the news again, its name closely associated with the department store La Samaritaine opposite. Having remained ‘in dry dock’ for nearly two decades, the flagship commissioned in 1870 by the celebrated Cognacq-Jay family was re-launched on June 23, 2021, under the flag of the…

Homes of great writers THE CHÂTEAU OF MONTE-CRISTO Following the success of The Three Musketeers and The Count of Monte Cristo, Alexandre Dumas (1802-1870) had this neo-Renaissance style residence built on a hill near the Seine, at Port Marly. It notably features a Moorish salon. In the landscaped grounds with their rockeries, ponds and waterfalls stands the Château d’If, a construction of neo-Gothic design intended for use as a study. The writer moved into the property in 1847 and soon left it again, harassed as he was by his creditors. ■ Port-Marly, 78. www.chateau-monte-cristo.com JEAN COCTEAU’S HOUSE After the shooting of Beauty and the Beast in 1947, Jean Cocteau (1889-1963) found a haven away from the tumult of Paris in Milly and lived there until the end of his life. For…

The Lola Bag is famous for its original design and its perfectly excuted quilting. Adorned with a clasp featuring the TB designed by Chief Creative Officer Riccardo Tisci, this bag entered the brand’s pantheon in the Autumn/Winter 2019 collection, the firts produced by the designer for Burberry. Hand-made in Italy, the Lola is a delicately padded model, making it unbeatably soft. Over the seasons, it has been released in a wide variety of shapes, materials, and colors. Produced in leather, mohair blend, knitted check or cotton canvas, the Lola is now available in several new and irresistible hues, including Primrose Pink, Deep Saffron… It also features as a quilted Lola bucket bag in Black, Deep Saffron, Pale Vanilla or Maple Brown. Pouches and satchels have also been added to the…

The love between Paris and Tiffany & Co. is as strong as ever. Indeed, the jeweler – a symbol of elegance, visionary artistic craft and creative excellence since it was founded in 1837 – has opened a new store in the city: on Avenue Montaigne, one of the most celebrated Parisian streets for luxury stores, American jeweler Tiffany & Co. has chosen to set up its temporary boutique. “The love affair between Tiffany & Co. and Paris has lasted nearly 200 years, since the firm’s beginnings. The new pop-up store in Paris is a modern reflection of that important relationship,” explains Anthony Ledru, CEO of Tiffany & Co. For one year, in the heart of the district around the juncture of Avenue Montaigne and Rue François Ier, opposite Dior’s 30…

Less than two hours from Milan and forty minutes from Verona, the Lake District of Northern Italy breathes old-fashioned charm and Italian-flavored romance. The beautiful scenery is as enchanting as the Mediterranean’s. Yet no, this is not the Amalfi Coast, but very much the shore of the Lago di Garda, where cypresses and olive trees merge with lemon and orange orchards. The hillside Lefay Resort is in striking contrast to its bucolic setting with its concrete building and great bay windows. It has a spectacular view of the lake, mountains and surrounding villages. The 93 suites – all with a view – are fitted out with natural fabrics, precious materials such as Italian marble, and olive and walnut wood. Devoted to © NICOLO’ BRUNELLI. well-being, the magnificent 3,800 sq.m. spa…

At her open-air concert at the Parc Floral de Paris, pianist Shani Diluka pays tribute to Marcel Proust with a selection of pieces, and also reads texts that illustrate another side of the author of In Search of Lost Time as we commemorate the centenary of his death this year. Finally, we should mention her The Proust Album recording, released last fall. What is your connection with Proust? I’ve been reading him for a long time. He’s a writer who stays with you all your life. The works performed at the concert are related to the atmosphere of In Search of Lost Times. They help me combine my enthusiasm for literature with my love of music. He was a music lover… Proust was passionate about music. He often discussed it…

If you're looking for the crème-de-la-crème of rooftop bars in Paris, look no further than the 10th floor of the Kimpton Saint Honoré, a beautiful hotel in the Art Nouveau building that once housed the Samaritaine Luxe. In an open-air space spanning 300 sq.m. decorated by Charles Zana, we can't get enough of the 360° view over Paris and its monuments: Opéra Garnier, Eiffel Tower, Sacré Cœur… As it says in the tourism guidebooks: "The view alone is worth it!" And if the stunning panoramas take your breath away, but not your appetite, you'll also find what you need in the way of Mexican finger food. For lunch, dig into a chicken, fish or vegetarian taco with guacamole and home-made corn chips, a soft drink and a hot beverage. For…

One of the rare 5-star establishments in the working-class areas of Paris, Maison Bréguet has quickly become an iconic fixture of La Roquette district. This charming boutique-hotel owes part of its success to its restaurant and the revisited Mediterranean cuisine of Chef Suha Ozkan, which can be enjoyed whether at the bar opposite the kitchen, on the charming plant-filled terrace, or seated comfortably on one of the cushiony benches. This season’s menu features ceviche of citrus-marinated sea bream, fennel confit raw and cooked in dill oil (€18), followed by slightly seared tuna, stewed eggplant, miso, charred spring onions, yuzu condiment (€32) and finishing with a thin-crust apricot tart and vanilla ice cream (€12). The restaurant hosts a generous Sunday brunch at €55 until 3pm and then tapas until 10pm. Lunch…

Writer, philosopher and urban planner, Cyril Aouizerate is the founder of the MOB movement, creating spaces designed to be cultural and ethical embassies. After the 2017 opening of a 92-room MOB Hotel complete with a 90-seat restaurant and an immense terrace, located in the outskirts of Paris, near the Saint-Ouen flea market, he’s back in 2022 with a MOB House just steps away. Cyril Aouizerate has adopted the same eco-friendly credo, proposing a vast dining room decorated like an American steakhouse and a sprawling terrace in the 2,000 sq. m., tree-filled inner courtyard. Set around a glorious green lawn, wood tables with chairs and benches topped with colorful pastel cushions invite guests to relax and choose a tasty program concocted by the talented Jérôme Banctel, two-Michelin-starred chef at Le Gabriel…

Spout out Founded by two friends with too little greenery and fresh air in their lives, Niobé transforms city life with its practical, poetic, ecological and ethical plant-based designs. Besides “planted” furniture, like the Rousseau end table, they take the sting out of watering with their stylish “ollas” water diffusers holders to plant in pots that release water gradually over the course of a week. ■ Olla by Niobé. S from €24, M from €34. L’Atelier des Créateurs. 1 bis, rue Ravignan, 18th. https://niobe.design Metal magic Wrought iron craftsmen and creators of art, Pouenat draws on a pool of the most talented contemporary designers to give shape and function to 150 years of expertise. They were recently joined in their creative endeavors by designers Humber & Poyet, who produced the…

→ SPA THÉMAÉ: WHO’S FOR TEA? A unique establishment that local residents would have liked to keep to themselves. But since 2007, news of this wonderful cocoon temple of well-being has proved impossible to hush up. Its secret is its original (and even pioneering) tea-based health and beauty therapy. More than 200 establishments worldwide have followed its lead, but it is only at Spa Thémaé (exclusive user of the name) where peerless therapists provide treatments developed by the French brand, which has just launched a new BioCosméceutiques line. Their key offer? Modifiable massage protocols to satisfy the customer’s every need and wish. ■ Open daily until 8pm from 11am and 10am Friday, Saturday and Sunday. 20-22, rue Croix des Petits Champs, 1st. www.themae.com → LE 110 HONORÉ: TOP MARKS! There…

CLUNY MUSEUM NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE MIDDLE AGES The Cluny Museum sheds light on the Middle Ages, a period lasting a thousand years! Opened in 1843 in the former 15th-century mansion of the abbots of Cluny, the site lies next to the city’s Gallo-Roman baths dating to the 1st and 2nd centuries. Although the modernization of the museum, begun in 2013, ends this spring, the works were completed in stages, and the site only closed completely in September 2020. Parts of its buildings have been restored and a new structure was added in 2018. Visitors used to have to go up and down 27 different steps or stairs, but the museum is now accessible to people with disabilities. Arranged by date with some themed areas, the displays start in the…

Some brands adapt so well to the passage of time that women keep their products within reach or on their bathroom shelves at each stage of their lives. Clarins is one of those brands. Its products harness the science of plant intelligence and its natural benefits and draw on almost seventy years of expertise developed through the Aroma concept, invented by the brand’s founder Jacques Courtin, creating elixirs of youth through the combined action of essential oils and plant extracts. An environmentally responsible pioneer, Clarins forges ethical relationships with producers of its raw materials, supports sustainable projects, and uses 85% organic ingredients and packaging made from 63% recycled materials. By 2025, all the contents of its skincare range will be fully recyclable. These exacting standards have found their ultimate expression…

THIBAUT SPIWACK In November 2018, Thibaut Spiwack quietly opened his own restaurant. It was the first in Paris to be fully ethically responsible in every area. And until the end of October, he is also running Fabula at the Carnavalet Museum. Originally, there was nothing to suggest that young Thibaut Spiwack would be a chef. “I studied science until the 11th grade and then enrolled at catering school on impulse, because I wanted to do something useful. Initially, I felt that making people happy was even more important than cooking. So I immediately fell in love with the restaurant trade.” Taking a series of examinations, he was awarded a vocational training certificate as an independent candidate, then a vocational studies diploma, and finally a vocational baccalaureate. He subsequently gained work experience with…

HÔTEL BEL AMI Sophisticated Parisian living Living like the residents of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, shopping at the Grande Épicerie grocery store while enjoying all the services of a five-star hotel: such is the experience reserved for guests staying at the Hôtel Bel Ami. Housed in the former printing works that produced the first copy of Guy de Maupassant’s famous novel Bel Ami in 1885, the hotel now presents contemporary design in its 97 rooms and 5 apartments, and its restaurant, bar and spa. Channeling a resolutely Parisian spirit, decorator Pascal Allaman devised a very graphic concept based on calligraphy and the former printing business, and chose to design all the furniture for the rooms. He varied their interior geometry with selected curtain and carpet patterns and used glass partitions between bedrooms and bathrooms…

SUMMER 2022 POP ROCK JULY 8 AND 9 Red Hot Chili Peppers Snow (Hey Oh), By the Way, Californication, Aeroplane, Suck my Kiss and Give it Away… Anthony Kiedis and his band of merry men are playing two nights in Paris. Don’t forget to book! ■ Stade De France. St Denis, 93. 6:30pm. €56.50. www.stadefrance.com JULY 8 TO AUGUST 6 The Cabaret Sauvage Summer Festival The Cabaret Sauvage is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year. There will be a month of festivities: a colorful, varied tour of the musical world channeling the spirit of the most iconic big top in Paris. Electro concerts and more: reggae, chanson, blues, jazz and world music from established stars and new revelations setting the central stage on fire. With: Goran Bregovic, Popa Chubby, Gnawa…

After a remarkable residence of several months at Mokoloco, the casual annex of Mokonuts, Filipino chef Erica Paredes is back with a restaurant of her own at the end of Rue de Montreuil. The inviting, understated setting, featuring gray waxed concrete walls, unvarnished wood tables and comfy benches with a mix of brown wood and salmon pink seats, punctuated with plants here and there, appeals to a trendy clientele. They appreciate a new kind of cuisine, a fusion of French bistronomy and the traditional flavors of the Philippines archipelago. The regularly changing menu includes a dozen or so plates to share: oysters, singang consommé, chive oil (€10 for 3 or €18 for 6), duo of roasted asparagus, bagoong hazelnut butter, grated dried egg, Greek yogurt with lovage (€13), “Sisig” minced…

→ HOT ICES! If the Marquis de Sade had tried his luck in the kitchen, he would have made Les Exquis-mots. In fact, we owe these poetic, erotic chocolate-covered ice-cream bars to La Mère de Famille, the oldest chocolate-maker in Paris, which has revisited its classic repertoire to create four new all-chocolate flavors. From chocolate sorbet to 70% Madagascar or 75% Haiti chocolate ices, it’s all about depth of taste. But what’s truly original is the stick engraved with slightly suggestive messages: you need to eat the ice-cream bar to read the rest… The only ice-cream bar that leaves you hot under the collar. You’ll definitely want another serving! ■ Exquis-mots, only available at À la Mère de Famille. 35, rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 9th. www.lameredefamille.com → MO…CHIC! The mochi,…

As far back as 1803, in his Almanach des Gourmands (the ancestor of today’s good food guides), the celebrated Grimod de la Reynière published a culinary overview of Paris, which certainly featured the first ‘modern’ restaurant, opened on the Rue du Louvre by Mathurin Roze de Chantoiseau in 1765. Its revolutionary innovations were its individual tables and the set menu for guests. While some arrondissements have a better reputation than others for food genres and trends (9th, 11th, 20th, etc.), the 1st excels in its remarkable range of choices. After all, the district of Les Halles – the ‘belly of Paris’ exalted by the great writer Émile Zola – was the alimentary epicenter of the capital until the end of the Sixties. Among the restaurants that embody the roguish spirit…

“I’m a naturalist jeweler,” wrote Marie-Etienne Nitot, the founder of what is now jewelry house Chaumet, in the 18th-century. For almost two and a half centuries, the celebrated jeweler on place Vendôme has given pride of place to nature and recently made it the subject of an exhibition at the Beaux-Arts de Paris, the capital’s fine arts college, featuring 400 works of art, photographs, and jewels. “We wanted to shed light on Chaumet and art in all its forms, and the many artists who, down the ages, have shared the same desire to contemplate the world of plants through the eyes of a botanist − humble, meticulous, and intimate − to create works that are certainly different by nature, but still rooted in its observation,” explained Jean-Marc Mansvelt, CEO of…

Over the past year, the Printemps department store has opened new spaces at each of its three sites, many of them at Printemps Femme, dedicated to women. Dotted O with artworks, it is home to “7e Ciel”, a space for sustainable, pre-loved and vintage fashion. Discover clothes, accessories, beauty products and ethical and eco-designed furniture under the spectacular Binet cupola − a powerful symbol of circularity, a concept cherished by Printemps, as demonstrated by its new “Uni Vers, le Beau responsable” collection. Reopened to the public especially for the occasion after being kept under wraps for decades, this incredible structure by Eiffel in polychrome glass is identical to the Coupole Charas (home to La Brasserie), now accessible via Le Pont d’Argent − a brick and rivetted-metal walkway dating from the…

Guarded by the stately Vendôme column that rockets past the hotel’s highest windows, Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme is an enchanting oasis of calm at the bustling heart of the city. Once home to the studios of late-19th century couturier Jeanne Paquin, the first internationally renowned clothes designer, this building and its past has inspired a timeless design by interior architect Ed Tuttle who combines classic and contemporary influences with a hint of high fashion. Its 156 rooms, including 45 suites, are filled with gold and artworks, while the spa is decorated in Paris stone, mahogany, onyx, and golden brown mosaics. The magic extends into the recently opened Salon du Park with its giant sculpture by artist Roseline Granet, whose works and furniture are found across the hotel. Opening onto the…

What visitor can have strolled through the streets of Rome towards the Villa Borghese and Piazza di Spagna without pausing to admire the ochre façade of the Hotel Eden? Opened at the end of the 19th century, the legendary luxury establishment has welcomed countless celebrities, heads of state and artists. The Dorchester hotel group – which also owns the Plaza Athénée and Hôtel Le Meurice in Paris – commissioned Bruno Moinard, Claire Betaille and Patrick Jouin to plan the Eden’s renovation in 2017. Adopting an elegant but unpretentious approach, the three French designers achieved their aims in great style. After we cross the splendid lobby with its gilded coffered ceilings and marble floor, we succumb to the charms of one of its 98 rooms or suites. They hold many ornamental…

Alone with his double bass, Clovis Nicolas plays original pieces and covers to showcase the instrument and reveal the full extent of his talent. You can check him out on his album Autoportrait and at the Sunset on July 23. Choosing a repertoire to play solo on a double bass is rather unusual… It is. I’d been thinking about it for a while when I got to work in 2019. Then once the pandemic began, I was 100% committed. The pieces are varied… They’re slow or fast, they have a lot of chords or not many, some are improvised and others are written… My aim is to make sure the audience isn’t bored, that we share emotions. Listening to someone play on their own can be a little daunting, but…

SUMMER 2022 ★★ LE RESTAURANT DU PALAIS ROYAL 1st 110, Galerie de Valois. Tel. 01 40 20 00 27. www.restaurantdupalaisroyal.com • Noon to 2:30pm and 7:30pm to 10:30pm • Closed Sunday and Monday • Valet parking • Average price: €120. Last March, the Michelin Guide awarded a second star to Philip Chronopoulos, chef of the Restaurant du Palais Royal that belongs to the Evok Hôtels Collection group. A distinction that gives top billing to the inventive and precise cuisine of this young chef, formerly with L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon. From the contemporary dining room decorated by Christophe Tollemer with natural oak and wicker furniture, guests enjoy the benefit of a unique view of the splendid Palais-Royal gardens. Now that the weather is warm, opt for one of the tables on…

For a good many Parisians, a river cruise on the Seine is the epitome of mass tourism, but Frédéric Anton, triple-starred chef from Le Pré Catelan who also presides over Le Jules Verne at the Eiffel Tower, has proven just the opposite by coming down from the Iron Lady to offer an upscale and intimate gastronomic cruise. Rendezvous at 7:45 pm at the Don Juan II, Port Debilly below the Palais de Tokyo. Climb on board this luxurious exotic wood yacht, sip a glass of champagne on the upper deck and admire the passing houseboats. Then head to the main dining room decorated in an Art Deco style to be seated at one of the 12 tables in front of the bay window. Sit back and enjoy this cruise punctuated…