My epiphany came on a sweltering day fifteen years ago, when, in the temple town of Madurai, I was among a swirling sea of seekers outside the hotel Ashok, and the object of our anticipation continued to remain an overwhelming absence even as she smiled at us from pen caps and gold rings and shaven heads and car windows and garish posters. The air conditioner in the Tempo Traveller, the chariot of the day with registration number TN 07U995, kept whirring, adding to the whispers of servility, and someone never stopped perfuming the carpet that spread from the doorway to the van. Hands remained folded in the corridor, and heads bowed, and when she finally appeared, she did not look sideways, there were no knowing nods, her feet on the…