Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2024 i Olive Magazine

August is arguably the month for locally grown produce, which is good news for your wallet as in glut season you can shop well. From charred sweetcorn and chilli salsa with tortilla chips for a Friday night with friends (p20) via a blackberry and bay pie for Sunday lunch (p26) to prosciutto, prawn and mangetout skewers with lemon chive mayo for an upscale BBQ (p36), there are loads of new recipes to try. It’s also time – weather willing – for a trip to the seaside, and this month we are exploring the thriving food scene of Brighton with recommendations from great coffee to special occasion venues and everything in between. Bringing more sunshine to the issue are food writer Ed Smith’s colourful kitchen and an expert explainer about the…

1 New chef venture NIJŪ, MAYFAIR Endo Kazutoshi, arguably London’s most esteemed sushi master, is behind this new Mayfair Japanese grill, with executive chef Chris Golding overseeing the menu day-to-day. Careful sourcing, luxe ingredients and well-honed kitchen skills culminate in a unique menu inspired by ‘katei ryōri’ – homecooked, seasonal dishes. Some, like dover sole, asparagus and nori butter, are served tableside. Wagyu is cooked over Japanese charcoal and served with yuzu salsa verde, while sashimi comes the traditional way, or with a contemporary NIJŪ twist – ‘aburi’ (seared) with caviar. Vegetables are treated with equal care, from grilled aubergine with white sesame dressing, to spicy spinach with sobacha (buckwheat tea). A sushi counter and glass panel revealing all the kitchen action adds to the buzzy atmosphere. nijulondon.com 2 Just…

Red mullet with mouclade sauce Red mullet has a slightly shellfish-like taste and is one of my favourite fish. Do take some time to dry out the skin for maximum crispiness. The sauce is a riff on mouclade, a French dish of lightly curried mussels in a creamy sauce. SERVES 2 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS DRYING | COOK 40 MINS | EASY | GF 4 x 150g mullet filletsolive oil1 heaped tbsp sea salt flakes MOUCLADE SAUCE 500g mussels50g butter1 leek, finely chopped2 garlic cloves, chopped1-2 tsp curry paste125ml white wine 100ml double creamhandful of parsley, roughly chopped 1 A few hours before you want to cook, lay the fish fillets skin-side up on a rack over a tray and put in the fridge, uncovered, to dry out the…

olive NOURISH Billed as the weight-loss regime that boosts mood too, this diet is all about increasing levels of the ‘happy hormone’ dopamine and at the same time shedding pounds. Celebrities such as chef Tom Kerridge have supported this diet’s popularity in recent years. There are several different versions of the plan but all are based around foods that are thought to boost levels of dopamine. What is the dopamine diet? The dopamine diet is essentially a lowcarb, high-protein eating plan. There is emerging evidence to suggest that people who are overweight may have disruptions in how dopamine works in their body. This could be because the mechanism has been blunted through constant exposure to highly palatable (sugary and fatty) foods. This blunted response might lead to increased reward-seeking behaviour, including…

Summer greens and Boursin® filo rotolo SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINSCOOK 45 MINS | EASY | V 1 tbsp olive oil bunch of spring onions, finely chopped2 garlic cloves, crushed250g mixture of spinach, rocket and watercress, stalks roughly chopped1 lemon, zested150g Boursin® Garlic & Herbs4 sheets of filo pastry 100g butter, melted2 tsp za’atar pinch of chilli flakes 1 Heat the oil in a deep frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the spring onions for 5 mins until softened. Stir in the garlic and fry for 1 min until fragrant. Stir in the greens and cook for 5 mins until wilted. Season well and remove from the heat. Leave to cool to room temperature. 2 Stir the lemon zest and Boursin® Garlic & Herbs into the cooled greens. Layer…

1 Butterbean stew with crispy sage and sourdough breadcrumbs This stew is comforting and easy to put together. Season lightly as the beans and stock will already be quite salty. SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 50 MINS | EASY 3 tbsp olive oil2 onions, finely chopped2 garlic cloves, finely chopped½ tsp chilli flakes1 tsp fennel seeds2 x 570g jars of butterbeans (we used Bold Bean Co)1 parmesan rind (optional)170ml chicken stock 1½ tbsp sherry vinegar BREADCRUMBS 35g unsalted butter1 tbsp olive oil8 sage leaves75g stale sourdough, blitzed to breadcrumbs 1 Heat the olive oil in a large casserole. Once shimmering, cook the onions with a pinch of salt on a medium-low heat for 15-20 mins or until completely softened and beginning to caramelise. 2 Add the garlic, chilli and…

3 INGREDIENT COCKTAIL Lemon and raspberry margarita Easy, speedy and a gorgeous, rosy glow – a splendid drink for summer. Pour 50ml of silver tequila into a cocktail shaker with 25ml of lemon juice and 25ml of Chambord. Add a large handful of ice and shake well until the shaker feels ice-cold. Double-strain into an ice-filled tumbler and serve. If you like, rub a little lemon juice around the glass first, then dip in sea salt flakes. You could also garnish with a few raspberries, too. HOME BAR HACKS Frosted glass Many cocktail recipes suggest pouring your drink into a chilled glass. This helps maintain the temperature and dilution, and a cold frosted glass looks the part, too. The easiest way to do this is to put your glasses in…

The northern part of Mexico is generally arid and hot, the majority of its landscape being covered with endless deserts, like the Vizcaíno Desert in Baja California or the Sonoran Desert in Sonora. Meat features prominently in the northern Mexican diet and so, besides being extremely friendly, people from the north of Mexico love grilling. Organising a carne asada (northern Mexican barbecue) isn’t reserved for special occasions but instead is something that they do all the time. A good norteño (a person from the north of Mexico) loves eating steak tacos, machaca burritos (dried beef, which is finely shredded), chilorio (pork marinated in chillies and spices), lamb barbacoa, birria and more. Pinto beans are also commonly served to accompany many dishes – they are usually just fried or sometimes prepared…

FREJA BEEF BONE BROTH Made in small batches with minimal ingredients, and simmered for 24 hours to extract maximum flavour and nutrients. Drink as it is or use as a recipe base. £6.99/500ml, frejafoods.com COOL CHILE COMPANY ANCHO BARBACOA TACO KIT This taco kit features ancho in adobo, pasilla chilli flakes and authentic white corn tacos, plus a recipe to perfect your technique – just add your choice of protein or veg. £8, coolchile.co.uk ODYSEA PINE AND FIR TREE RAW HONEY This honey is produced in limited batches and extracted cold with minimal filtration. We loved the subtle pine and fir flavours. £6.99/250g, odysea.com WARRENDALE WAGYU TEXAN BRISKET This cut is rubbed with a Texan-style smoky and sweet spice mixture which creates a savoury crust and tender meat after slow…

Charred sweetcorn and chilli salsa with lime salt tortilla chips Make the tortilla chips in advance, and serve this as a snack while the barbecue is on and you continue cooking the mains on the coals. Serve with extra dips like guacamole and soured cream for an easy snacking spread. SERVES 6-8 AS A SNACKPREP 20 MINS PLUS RESTING COOK 25 MINS | EASY | V 4 corn on the cobs3 red chillies 1 red pepper 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 shallot, finely chopped100g feta, crumbledhandful of coriander, chopped3 tbsp olive oil2 limes, zested and juiced vegetable oil, for shallow-frying4 corn or wheat tortillas, each cut into eight triangles1 tsp fine sea salt 1 tsp smoked paprika½-1 tsp chilli powder 1 Heat a heavy frying pan or skillet over a high…

S’mores MAKES 8 | PREP 5 MINS COOK 3 MINS | EASY 16 digestive biscuits70g dark roasted crunchypeanut butter 50g raspberry jam 35g dark chocolate chips16 marshmallows 1 Heat the grill to high. Put 8 biscuits on a baking tray lined with baking paper. Spread peanut butter over them, then swirl over the jam and top with a few chocolate chips, pushing them into the jam and peanut butter. Top each with two marshmallows and a pinch of sea salt flakes. 2 Slide under the grill for 2 mins 30 seconds until the marshmallows are golden, bubbling and melting. Sandwich with the remaining digestives and serve immediately. If you’re cooking on a barbecue, sandwich the marshmallow-topped digestives with the remaining digestives, then wrap each in foil. Cook on the barbecue…

Castilla Termal Brihuega, Castilla-La Mancha Surrounded by lavender fields, this little town in the region of La Alcarria is home to a new boutique hotel in a restored cloth factory. Perfect for food lovers seeking to make new discoveries, it showcases regional specialities, while its thermal waters provide an opportunity to fully relax and rejuvenate. Breakfast is a delight: all the Spanish goodies like jamón ibérico, pan con tomate and tortilla, plus local ingredients like manchego, honeycomb and tarta de uvas – a grape sponge cake which teams well with the more contemporary touch in the cold drip coffee offered. At dinner, rustic plates like kid goat and the region’s famous rum baba style cake are served in the large glass-domed restaurant. Nearby food experiences include truffle hunting at family-owned…

I am a food and recipe writer, the author of four cookbooks, including Good Eggs and Crave, and co-author of Welcome to Our Table, a book for children about food as its eaten around the world. I live in east London with my wife and our young son. We moved into our house nearly three years ago, undertook lots of unglamourous and annoyingly necessary remedial and redecoration work, then had to pause for two years until we could consider more pleasurable things — like changing the kitchen. It’s the space I spend 80% of my time in (both for work and family life). So, over those two years, I spent a lot of time thinking, planning and rethinking how to change it from a dark, dirty and miserable space into…

Piña colada layer cake SERVES 12 | PREP 1 HR 10 MINS PLUS DRYING | COOK 30 MINS MORE EFFORT COCONUT RUM SPONGES 300g unsalted butter, softened300g golden caster sugar6 eggs300g self-raising flour75g desiccated coconut1 tsp baking powder4 tbsp coconut cream2 tbsp white rum PINEAPPLE FILLING 400g pineapple, finely chopped50g soft light brown sugar1 tsp vanilla bean paste2 tbsp white rum RUM SYRUP 4 tbsp white rum3 tbsp caster sugar COCONUT BUTTERCREAM 500g unsalted butter, softened1kg icing sugar1-3 tsp coconut extract or flavouring (depending on strength) DECORATIONS ½ pineapple, peeled (optional) cherries toasted coconut flakes 1 If you like, make pineapple flower decorations by thinly slicing the pineapple using a mandoline. Pat dry using kitchen paper, then put on a rack and bake at 120C/100C fan/gas 1 for 1-2 hrs…