Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2023 i Olive Magazine

olive has always taken its cooking cues from the ever-evolving food scene around us: the restaurants, street stalls and pubs on our doorstep, as well as from our travels across the world and the stories that accompany them. The people we meet along the way help shape our taste, tone and cooking techniques, introducing us to new ingredients and challenging the way we think things should be done. Our mission is to share these essential nuggets from a broad variety of voices with you. Three things I’ve particularly enjoyed doing this month are adding cardamom to a basque cheesecake at Amy Newsome’s suggestion (her writing is a joy – see what I mean from page 28 – and be sure to listen to her podcast, too), cooking cabbage on the…

On the menu Hugo spritz Hummus platter with all the veg Herby chicken noodle salad Pistachio, cherry and vanilla neapolitan slice Platters with veg for dipping work well at any time of year – adjust what you use to the seasons. You can also use veg that benefit from blanching, such as sprouting broccoli, green beans and asparagus, or pieces of pickled veg. Hummus platter with all the veg SERVES 6-8 | PREP 30 MINS | EASY | V Spoon 500g of hummus in three or four mounds onto a large platter, creating smoosh marks in the top of each with the back of a spoon. Fill each dip with a topping such as chilli crisp, olive oil, toasted pine nuts and lemon juice, pomegranate molasses, olive oil and chopped…

Honeyed chipotle lamb tacos One of my favourite things about Mexican cooking is that the ingredients work hard in a relaxed, unpretentious way, providing flavour, colour and impressive chemistry. The apple cider vinegar in the marinade tenderises the meat. Plan ahead and marinate overnight for the greatest effect – your taste buds will thank you. SERVES 4 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS MARINATINGCOOK 2 HRS 30 MINS | EASY 750g boned lamb leg, cut into big chunks1 onion, sliced2 tsp chipotle paste2 tbsp tupelo honey (see buying guide on page 36)2 tbsp flavourless oil16 small corn tortillas½ lime MARINADE 1 tsp coriander seeds, toasted1 tsp cumin seeds, toasted2 tsp dried Mexican oregano4 garlic cloves, peeled2½ tbsp chipotle paste2 tsp achiote paste100ml apple cider vinegar GARNISHES TO SERVE guacamoleor avocado slices…

COOK A CLASSIC effortless! SERVES 4-6 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 10 MINS | EASY | V 2 x 225g blocks of halloumi 2 tbsp plain flour½ tsp dried oregano ¼ tsp garlic powder 100g fat-free greek yogurtpomegranate molasses, to serve 1 Slice the halloumi blocks through the middle, then into chips, and pat dry with kitchen paper. Stir together the flour, oregano and garlic powder, and season with black pepper. Toss the halloumi chips in the mixture until well coated. 2 Heat the air fryer to 180C. Using tongs, lay the fries in the basket in a single layer and cook for 10-12 mins, carefully flipping them halfway through, until golden. Arrange on a plate to serve, alongside the yogurt drizzled with pomegranate molasses for dipping. PER SERVING (6)…

Our pro says My first taste of BAO was on a miserable winter day in 2013 at a street food market. I saw these pillowy buns steaming in traditional bamboo baskets and, from my first braised pork and fermented greens bao topped with peanut powder (now referred to as the ‘Classic’), I was hooked. A lot can happen in 10 years but, since joining forces with hospitality juggernaut JKS (behind acclaimed institutions such as Gymkhana and Lyle’s) and opening its first restaurant in Soho, BAO has gone from strength to strength, and is now on its fifth restaurant, BAO Mary in Marylebone. On the menu, you’ll find the full range of bao (featuring the aforementioned Classic, a lamb bao with garlic mayo and soy pickled chilli, and Taiwanese fried chicken…

wine Wooden barrels have been used to ferment, store and transport wine for thousands of years. It is remarkable that their design and construction have barely changed to this day, and they are still a vital part of much wine-making all around the world. The Romans came across oak barrels made for beer during their invasion of Gaul, and adopted them widely because they were far more practical than the clay amphorae that then were more usually used for wine. Made of tight-grained oak staves held together with metal bands, sealed with cork bungs or oil-soaked rags, they are robust, watertight and easy to transport and store by being rolled along the ground and stacked on top of one another. Not only this, wine in barrels often improves as time…

Crab rarebit SERVES 2 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY RAREBIT MIXTURE 15g butter15g plain flour60ml Old Speckled Hen ale (or similar strong ale)70g mature cheddar¾ tsp english mustard¾ tsp worcestershire sauce2 slices of sourdough breadlemon wedges, to serve CRAB MIXTURE 100g picked white crab meat50g brown crab meat½ tbsp crème fraîche½ tsp sugarjuice and zest of ½ a lemon1 tbsp chopped chives, plus extra to garnish 1 Melt the butter in a medium pan over a medium heat. Add the flour, mix and cook for 1 min. Add the ale and whisk continuously until the mixture thickens and there are no lumps. 2 Add the cheese, mustard, worcestershire sauce and a large pinch of salt, and mix until the cheese has melted and the mixture…

When we first moved into our house, with its wild and wonderful secret garden, I immediately set about planting fruit trees because I wanted to restore the spirit of the former orchard. ‘Former orchard’ makes it sound much grander than it is. We live in a charming but very standard Victorian mid-terrace, but where all of the other houses on our street have long narrow gardens, ours follows this same format, until it opens out into a larger walled garden at the back, only accessible via a very overgrown, rather magical tree- and fern-flanked path. We were told when we viewed the house that it was once a fruit orchard – as much of the land around us in Kent was before being built on – and it’s really the…

listening to Just One Thing with Michael Mosley ...specifically the episode with Tim Spector about ultra-processed foods, why we should eat 30 different plant foods per week and gut health. Quality dark chocolate and coffee count as plant foods, hurray. Listen on BBC Sounds and find more info on eating 30 plant foods per week at joinzoe.com/learn/30-plants-per-week. reading Ravinder Bhogal’s new book, Comfort & Joy Any book that starts with a selection of TV snacks is a winner to me – I recommend the hot cheese and corn dip with jalapeño relish, and cumin, chilli and cucumber chaat with labneh. I aspire to the strawberry falooda milk cake, which sounds epic. eating Dishes from Phatthalung, Thailand Luke Farrell’s trip to this southern Thai province has inspired new additions to the…

seasonal In season this month applescornkohlrabileekspotatoesplumsshallotsspinach Plum, ginger and sake granita SERVES 4-6 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS FREEZING | EASY | GF 600g plums ½ ball stem ginger, plus 1 tbsp of ginger syrup from the jar70g caster sugar 4 tbsp good-quality sake 1 Peel and stone the plums – you should have approximately 400g of flesh and juice. Transfer to a blender with the stem ginger and blitz until smooth. Combine the sugar with the sake until mostly dissolved and add to the blender along with the ginger syrup. Blitz to combine. 2 Transfer the mixture to a large, rimmed baking tray that will fit into the freezer and freeze for 45 mins. Use a fork to scrape the semi-frozen mixture into icy crumbs, then return to the…

effortless! 1 Blackened pineapple chow SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY | GF 1 small pineapple, peeled, crown left on25g coriander, finely chopped2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely grated1 tsp hot sauce (we used The Doubles Kitchen She Hot Trini Pepper Sauce, available at shehotpepper.com)1 lime, zested and juiced 1 Cut the pineapple into quarters with the tops still left on. Grill them on a hot barbecue for 2-3 mins on each cut side or until you see grill marks. 2 While the pineapple grills, combine all the other ingredients, apart from the lime juice. Season with ½ tsp of freshly ground black pepper and a large pinch of sea salt. Once the pineapple comes off the grill, brush with the lime juice and…

Set in a new building at Chelsea Barracks, Campaner provides a modern look at Spain, from the Barcelona restaurant group Los Reyes del Mango. Dishes make use of local ingredients or those sourced from producers of excellence. Seafood is a star, whether that’s oysters with bloody mary cream, Catalan socarrat with prawns, or fish from the Josper grill. Hidden away under the airy restaurant and accessed by an outer door is The Clandesti, a bar with the opposite vibe – darkly secret. thecampaner.com Lobster and monkfish casserole SERVES 2 | PREP 40 MINS | COOK 35 MINS | MORE EFFORT 500g whole live lobster (or use crayfish or large prawns)sunflower oil, for deep-frying4 medium potatoes, peeled and sliced into 1/2cm-thick rounds100ml extra-virgin olive oil2 monkfish medallions (about 180-200g each)1 onion,…

TRY What is TAJÍN Tajín is an iconic Mexican seasoning that includes such ingredients as dried lime, ancho and pasilla chilli, sea salt, smoked paprika and oregano. It has a tangy, earthy, zesty flavour with a mild chilli heat that’s perfect to use as a marinade or over barbecued vegetables. It’s often sprinkled over sweet ripe fruits such as pineapple, mango and watermelon, and goes well with grilled seafood. Tajín is loved by chefs at restaurants including Casa Pastor in London and Bonita Taqueria Y Rotisserie in San Francisco. In this fresh and vibrant fajita salad, the Tajín is part of the marinade for the prawns and as a seasoning for the baked tortilla strips – great with a cold Mexican beer. Classic Tajín is available to buy from souschef.co.uk…

Indonesia is the jewel of Southeast Asia with 17,000 islands, three time zones, more than 1,000 ethnicities and some 700 languages. It is the home of nutmeg and cloves, and a spice trade that has influenced world cuisine for hundreds of years. Arabic, Indian, Chinese and European traders all brought their own culinary influences. Today Indonesian food represents some of the most exciting but least-known culinary treasures of Asia. The heritage of diversity in ingredients, tastes and culture is evident in every region of this massive country, and every dish – a reflection of the national motto ‘bhinneka tunggal ika’ or ‘unity in diversity’. The flavours of Sumatra, Java, Bali and some parts of Nusa Tenggara are bold, with layers of herbs and spices. Going further east to Sulawesi, Kalimantan,…

I am a chef, food writer and author. I have worked in many restaurant kitchens and have owned my own restaurant here in Bristol, but having three children (and a degree in journalism) ultimately led me down the path of cookery writing, much more simpatico with family life. I have written eight cookery books and am working on my ninth. I love our new house. We moved here post-pandemic, and we bought it for the kitchen alone. A huge, bright, white space, it’s certainly the spot in the house where we all spend the most time together. We have a 2.2-metre kitchen table and it’s here that I write my cookbooks, we all eat dinner together, the kids do their homework, we play cards and so on. Lucky for us,…

Nessa’s celeriac carbonara DON’T MISS THE OCTOBER ISSUE OF Olive FOR AN EFFORTLESS PARTY MENU, MEXICAN CELEBRATION DISHES AND RESTAURANTS TO TREASURE – ON SALE 7 SEPTEMBER. Celeriac carbonara SERVES 4 | PREP 40 MINS | COOK 1 HR | MORE EFFORT ½ lemon1kg celeriac500g pancetta lardons150g shallots, diced300ml white wine600ml double cream400-500ml rapeseed oil4 duck egg yolks (freeze the whites to use in other recipes)1/2 small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped100g parmesantruffle, to serve (optional)truffle oil, to serve4 tbsp panko breadcrumbs, lightly toasted, to garnish 1 Squeeze the lemon half in a large bowl of cold water. Cut the skin off the celeriac using a sharp knife and discard. Put the peeled celeriac through a spiraliser to make the ‘spaghetti’. If you don’t have a spiraliser, you…

Trendspotting BOLD OYSTER DRESSINGS Colour-forward oyster flavourings are everywhere, giving a straight squeeze of lemon or spoonful of shallot vinegar a run for their money. From raspberry aguachile and Carosello cucumber at Orasay, fermented cherries at Papi, rhubarb granita at Lyle’s and hazelnut salsa at LeftField in Edinburgh to miniature dishes in a shell including the Maldon oysters with steak, caviar and mustard at The Bow Room in York. Pictured here are Carlingford oysters with sea buckthorn and fermented chilli served at AngloThai x Outcrop at 180 The Strand. @outcrop.social@anglothai BUDGET VS BLOWOUT Buy the best, whatever your budget – this month, knife sharpeners PROCOOK TWIN-WHEEL KNIFE SHARPENER Our experts love the compact, dual-wheel design and stability of this handheld sharpener, which performed beyond its price point – it…

your favourites Save all your treasured recipes in one place, see reviews before trying something new and add your own comments and ratings at olivemagazine.com Croissant bread and butter pudding Take your pudding to the next level with buttery croissants, blackberry jam and seasonal blackberries @jennycooks said: “This was such a good way to use up a packet of croissants I had in the cupboard. I’ve always loved bread and butter pudding, and using the croissants made it even more lovely.” 1 hr Easy Serves 4 Ingredients 225ml double cream375ml whole milk3 eggs75g caster sugar¾ tsp vanilla extract4-5 croissants, halved horizontally50g unsalted butter4 tbsp blackberry jam150g blackberries1 tbsp demerara sugarsingle cream, to serve Method STEP 1 Heat the oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 31/2. Heat the double cream and…

effortless! Crispy paneer and watermelon salad While this sort of watermelon salad is often made with feta, I like the contrast of texture and nutty, toasted flavour that the crispy paneer brings to the party here. Halloumi works well, too, but be aware that it will become chewier rather than crisp when fried. Not necessarily a bad thing – just different. SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 5 MINS | EASY | V GF 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling200g paneer, coarsely grated700g watermelon1 small red onionbunch of mintbunch of coriander20 Kalamata olives 1 Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the paneer, stirring, for 3-4 mins or until a lovely orange gold all over. Transfer to kitchen paper…

The farm-to-fork mantra is revered with good reason. The positives that arise from chefs working in close proximity to their ingredients are manifest in flavour, creativity, freshness and sustainability, and chefs are keen to capitalise on that. Whether growing their own in kitchen gardens, cooking on farms or collaborating closely with market gardens, more and more chefs are not just sourcing locally but seeking greater control of their produce, its cultivation and quality. They work in symbiosis with nature to use seasonal ingredients at their freshly harvested peak. Meet 10 inspirational restaurants that are very much leading the way. HECKFIELD PLACE, HAMPSHIRE A stylish synthesis of ancient and modern, Heckfield is a one-time Georgian country house, now luxury hotel, where sustainability is foremost. Led by culinary director Skye Gyngell and…

HOME BAR HACKS Hedgerow cocktails Late summer to late autumn is hedgerow berry season, including blackberries, elderberries, rosehips and sloes. They’re fab for making homemade liqueurs and cocktails, and they’re also great for cocktails (and if you freeze after picking you can enjoy all year round). Try muddling blackberries with mint leaves, sugar syrup and bourbon for an autumnal julep. Elderberries need to be cooked first to be eaten safely – they make a lovely, vitamin-packed cordial that goes well in a fruity gin fizz along with gin, lemon juice and soda water. Rosehip syrup has a zesty, almost tropical flavour. It’s delicious in cocktails that use lime, such as a gimlet or daiquiri. When making the syrup, make sure you filter out the hairy seeds as they can be…