Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2023 i Olive Magazine

There’s a laid-back vibe to August. The luckiest of us switch to ‘out of office’ and you may be reading this on a train or at the airport, planning what to shop for, cook or eat at your destination. Even if it’s not holiday time for everyone, there’s a more relaxed atmosphere at home – colleagues and neighbours may be away, deadlines seem less pressing somehow and the longer days make for lazy lunches and dinners outside. With that in mind, we’ve limited time in the kitchen by creating some tastebud-tantalising salads such as feta and watermelon (p24), charred courgette and chickpeas with lemon yogurt (p41) and our sunshine-on-a-plate burrata and grilled mango cover star (p22). With clever ingredients, these are really just assembly jobs – and as imaginatively delicious…

On the menu ‘Caviar’ röstis Burger smash wraps with salad on the side Three-ingredient ginger fridge cake Add a luxe element to a dish and you transform it – think truffle fries with a burger wrap or a sparkle of caviar on a canapé. ‘Caviar’ röstis SERVES 6 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY Carefully cut six potato croquettes (we used M&S) into three pieces each and put them on a lined baking sheet, flat-sides down. Cook following pack instructions and then cool. Mix 300g of soured cream or crème fraîche with 3 tbsp of finely chopped chives. Spoon some of the chive cream onto each mini rösti and top with some trout or salmon ‘caviar’ (roe). Serve with fizz. PER SERVING 185 kcals | fat…

1 Crispy beans with creamed corn and jalapeño salsa SERVES 2-3 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 50 MINS | EASY | V GF CRISPY BEANS 700g jar of red beans or 2 × 400g tins of red kidney beans or black beans, drained1 tbsp olive oil1 tbsp smoked paprika CREAMED CORN 50g salted butter600g sweetcorn kernels2 garlic cloves, peeled200ml whole milk3 spring onions, finely chopped70g mature cheddar (or other strong cheese), grated JALAPEÑO SALSA 20g pickled jalapeños, plus 1 tbsp of pickling juice60ml extra-virgin olive oil30g coriander, roughly chopped10g mint leaveszest and juice of ½ lemonsqueeze of runny honey or agave 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Rinse the beans and pat dry with a kitchen paper – this helps them crisp up. Mix with the olive…

SEAFOOD STARS BUDGET THE COMPANY SHED, NEAR COLCHESTER Although it sells both, you can still bring your own bread and wine (£6 corkage per bottle) to this legendary Mersea Island daytime spot. Platters of Gigas oysters, mussels, smoked salmon or dressed crab can be had for around £20pp. Meals from £13.50; the-company-shed.com BUDGET RILEY’S FISH SHACK, TYNEMOUTH There is always a queue to eat the fresh day-boat fish cooked over coals and served in dishes such as salt hake with caper and fennel salad or whole red mullet with salsa verde at this beachside fave. In the summer, tables, deck chairs and parasols extend the dining area out from the shack onto the sands. Plates from £14; rileysfishshack.com BLOWOUT SEABIRD, LONDON Seabird’s swanky rooftop dining space is seafood-focussed, from the…

Chicken shawarma with advieh SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS MARINATING COOK 55 MINS | EASY | GF 3 tbsp advieh, plus a pinch to serve1½ tsp smoked paprika3 tbsp olive oil4 tbsp white wine vinegar2 tsp caster sugar6 garlic cloves, minced200g greek yogurt, plus 2 tbsp750g chicken thigh fillets, skinless10g mint, finely chopped2 tbsp lemon juice, plus 1 tsp of zest flatbreads, pickled vegetables and Turkish chillies, to serve 1 If your advieh contains whole dried rose petals and spices, first grind to a fine powder. Put it in a large bowl with the paprika, oil and vinegar. Mix well into a paste. 2 Mix in the sugar, two-thirds of the garlic, 2 tbsp of yogurt and 2½ tsp of fine sea salt. Add the chicken thighs and…

listening to The Power of Heritage Brands Part of The Food Chain podcast, this episode talks to experts about why brands from Tabasco to Baileys and Angostura bitters have both endured (some for more than 100 years) and are dominant in their markets. There’s also a cautionary tale or two about messing with what your fans like, looking at you Coca-Cola and Phileas Fogg. following @real_housewives_of_clapton Instagram accounts like @real_ housewives_of_clapton that gently rib followers of trends. You can enjoy ticking the boxes as much as marvelling at the clichés. Yes, I do like Perello olives, Torres crisps and orange wine. eating Foraged sauces Made by Durslade Farmhouse’s in-house forager Kenny using some of the ingredients found on the estate. The wild garlic and jalapeño packs a vegetal punch, and…

In season this month blackberriesblueberriescucumbersfennelgooseberriesstrawberriestomatoeswatermelons Blackberry cheesecake blondies SERVES 12 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 50 MINS | EASY 175g salted butter, cubed200g soft light brown sugar100g caster sugar150g white chocolate chips3 eggs 1 tsp vanilla bean paste200g plain flour½ tsp baking powder CHEESECAKE RIPPLE 100g soft cheese1 tbsp caster sugar1 tbsp plain flour 1 egg BLACKBERRY JAM 200g blackberries4 tbsp caster sugar2 tbsp lemon juice 1 To make the jam put the ingredients in a small pan over a medium-high heat and bubble for 6-8 mins or until thick and jammy. Mash the berries to release the juices as you stir – it doesn’t need to be smooth but should look sticky and glossy. Remove from the heat. 2 Put the butter, sugars and 50g of the white…

Massaman skewers This recipe makes me truly happy: the sticky delish of the squash sugars, the charry skin, crunchy peanuts, thick saucy satay and, of course, chilli, lime and rice. MAKES 6 SKEWERS | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS EASY | V 1 tsp mild curry powder2 tsp garlic powder½ tsp crushed makrut lime leaves2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil750g butternut squash, cut into large chunks (leave the skin on, if you prefer)1 red onion, cut into six wedges370g steamed white rice2 tbsp toasted salted peanuts, crushed, plus extra for garnishing1 lime, cut into six wedges SATAY 215g crunchy peanut butter1 tbsp white miso paste1 tsp tamarind paste1 tbsp runny honey¼ tsp garlic powder1 tbsp soy saucechilli oil TO SERVE fresh herbs(such as thai basil or coriander)dried chilli flakes…

Meaning ‘home’ in Italian, Casa’s relaxed approach to dining is led by head chef Joel Breakwell (pictured) and Peter Sanchez-Iglesias of Michelin-starred Paco Tapas and London’s acclaimed Decimo. Together they have created a refined yet accessible menu with nods to the previous Casamia, such as dishes being served on archived plateware and the pared-back interiors featuring artwork which adorned the original restaurant back in 1999. casabristol.co.uk Caponata SERVES 3-4 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 40 MINS | EASY | GF 700ml vegetable oil1 large aubergine, diced into 2cm squares3 tbsp olive oil½ white onion, diced small½ celery stick, diced small2 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped50ml moscatel vinegar50g pitted green olives, finely chopped40g golden raisins25g capers40g pine nuts sugar, to taste 1 Fill a medium pan two-thirds of the way…

wine Most of our favourite grapes originally came from France but they’re hard to spot in French wines which, like most wines from Europe, are usually labelled according to where they’re made rather than their grape varieties. The regions are called appellations and cover general areas (Bordeaux, Burgundy, etc) as well as smaller sub-appellations known as AOCs (appellation d’origine contrôlées) which have strict rules on which grapes and wine-making methods may be used. Sometimes the specific vineyard site (cru) where the grapes are grown is mentioned, too – ’grand cru’ and ‘premier cru’ are the most highly prized. Cabernet sauvignon’s home is Bordeaux, where it is often blended with merlot, malbec and other red grapes to make full-bodied, tannic wines. White wines here are dominated by sauvignon blanc (usually less…

Sheep’s ricotta and pepper agrodolce SERVES 2 | PREP 25 MINS PLUS COOLING AND MARINATING COOKS 10 MINS | EASY | V GF 3 peppers (preferably Corno or Romano)120ml good extra-virgin olive oil1 tbsp vinegar (sherry, chardonnay, moscatel or white wine vinegar)1 tbsp good balsamic or aged malt vinegar1 tsp wild oregano leaves1 tsp small caperszest of 1 lemon120g sheep’s ricotta or any good-quality ricotta2 tsp runny honeysprig of basil crusty bread, to serve 1 Heat a grill plate to high – if you have a gas hob you can also put the peppers directly on top of that. Season and lightly oil the peppers, keeping them whole. Put the peppers onto the grill and cook until the skins are evenly charred and the peppers yield to the touch. Once…

We’re deep into barbecue season and I couldn’t be happier about it. When the British weather plays ball, I love flinging open the back doors and extending our cooking zone out into the garden, where I’ve got a makeshift outdoor kitchen set up with gas and charcoal barbecues, and an upcycled marble washstand whose legs I had lengthened to make it the perfect height for prepping. Barbecuing doesn’t have to be too much of a faff, it’s actually one of the easiest ways to get maximum impact from ingredients with relatively simple preparation. I lean on brining and marinades for both meat and veg to up my grill game, because this simple technique can make all the difference. Keeping a bowl of marinated vegetables in the fridge, along with something…

Trendspotting BONE MARROW Bone marrow is a luxury no-waste dish and is very much on trend. From St John’s (the earliest of early adopters) roast bone marrow and parsley salad, Hawksmoor’s bone marrow and onions with sourdough toast and beef shin, and bone marrow parmentier at Westerns Laundry, to the Bone Daddies black bone ramen collab with Black Bear, The Campaner’s beef steak tartar on bone marrow, and bone marrow gravy fries at Burger & Beyond, you’ll find it at every price point. This high-end version is roasted and served in the bone with tapioca and cashew nuts, and comes from Brazilian chef Alberto Landgraf at newly opened Bossa. bossa.co.uk CRAVING Imad’s Syrian Kitchen has been delighting diners in Kingly Court, Carnaby, since 2021. This year, chef and owner Imad…

WHOLE MACKEREL OVER COALS WITH GARLIC AND GARDEN LEAVES For me, cooking these little fish over coals to blacken the skins is the perfect way to eat them. I have spent many hours mackerel fishing off the coast of Cornwall – they will always have a place at my table. SERVES 6 | PREP 5 MINS PLUS MARINATING COOK 10 MINS | EASY | GF 6 tbsp olive oil 1 lemon, zested and cut into wedges to serve3 garlic cloves, crushed1½ tsp dried chilli flakes2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley1kg mackerel, cleaned, heads removed sea salt flakes green salad, to serve 1 In a large bowl, combine 4 tbsp of the olive oil with the lemon zest, garlic, 1 tsp of the chilli flakes, 1 tbsp of the parsley and some…

effortless! SERVES 6 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 5 MINS | EASY 75g jumbo oats500ml double cream2 tbsp icing sugar5 tbsp whisky400g raspberries2 tbsp runny honey 1 Toast the oats in a dry frying pan over a medium heat for 5 mins, tossing regularly, until golden. Leave to cool. 2 Pour the cream into a bowl with the sugar and whip with electric beaters until it holds soft peaks. Add the whisky and beat briefly to combine, then fold in three-quarters of the raspberries and three-quarters of the oats. Divide between six glasses or dishes, then top with the remaining raspberries and oats before drizzling over the honey. PER SERVING 553 kcals | fat 46G saturates 28.1G | carbs 22.5G | sugars 14.1G fibre 3.2G | protein 3.7G | salt…

PRO VS PUNTER restaurant review Manchester-based journalist Tony Naylor has spent two decades writing about food and drink for, among others, olive, BBC Good Food, The Guardian and Observer Food Monthly. Our pro says Few restaurant websites feature a picture of the owner jet-washing the windows. But The White Horse is not every pub. Chef Gary Usher gave a blow-by-hammer-blow account of its refit online. Having shown he wasn’t afraid to get his hands dirty, neighbours and fans pitched in, unprompted, to help Usher with everything from the drains to fitting parquet flooring. A lot of people are emotionally invested in this pub’s journey and, judging by its warm, purposeful feel months later, that interest created a long-tail of positive energy. The refurbed White Horse is a handsome space, split…

COOK LIKE A LOCAL Imagine mountains rising from the sea, beautiful beaches, rainforests, mangrove swamps, savanna grasslands and rivers. That’s Sierra Leone. A country so beautiful that the locals have nicknamed it Sweet Salone. We have a rich culture, expressed in our arts and crafts, folklore and religion, clothing, cuisine, music and languages. Our cuisine is diverse and influenced by the country’s cultural heritage. There are 18 recognised ethnic tribal groups in the country, which adds value to the diversity in our food, food stories and culture. Our food is known for its rich flavours, use of fresh ingredients and a combination of African, European and indigenous culinary traditions. Rice, yam, fonio, plantain and cassava are key staples. We have a number of plasas (vegetable stews) made with a variety…

I’m a food writer specialising in simple, modern recipes that anyone can cook. I also write topical news stories on food trends and offer solutions – food dilemmas can usually be solved with forward planning. My work also involves photo or video shoots in the kitchen. Having all my kit to hand for styling shots is much easier than working at a location and having to lug everything with me, though cleaning up isn’t so much fun. The kitchen is an L-shape, about seven metres in both directions. It has windows and doors looking onto a south-facing garden and lovely daylight. It’s a minimal, contemporary design with maximum storage for all my kit. There are several rooms off the kitchen, including a den and small utility room. My studio workspace,…

show off DON’T MISS THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE OF olive FOR THE BEST FORK-TO-FIELD RESTAURANTS AND AN EFFORTLESS NO-COOK ENTERTAINING MENU – ON SALE 10 AUGUST. Tomato tarte tatin SERVES 4 | PREP 45 MINS PLUS CHILLING, COOLING AND INFUSING | COOK 2 HRS | MORE EFFORT 1kg cherry tomatoes325g sheet of puff pastry TOMATO CARAMEL 50g granulated sugar50ml sherry vinegar250ml tomato juice (use the juice from the tomatoes, plus a little extra if needed)30g unsalted butter, cubed1 thyme sprig, leaves picked CHARRED BRASSICA AND PARMESAN SAUCE 1/2 cabbage3 shallots, finely chopped1/2 fennel, finely chopped1 garlic clove, finely chopped2 bay leaves1 small thyme sprig olive oil1 litre vegetable stock500ml whey500ml double cream250g unsalted butter, cold, cubed25g parmesan rind11/2 lemons, zested and juiced 1 Cut a slit in each tomato and…