Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2023 i Olive Magazine

July is a month of two mindsets. As summer rolls around I crave excitement on my plate and look to hotter climates to inspire my cooking. So this month’s Pakistani recipes – a fragrant prawn kahari, cumin and peppercorn spiked chicken boti tikka and a refreshing cardamom and saffron kulfi – are winking at me. Enjoy Sumayya Usmani’s excellent guide to Pakistan’s sizzling street food, spit roasts and tandoor smoke on page 72. But on other days it’s British ingredients that pique my interest. A simple dish of broad beans with a fried egg hits the spot and couldn’t be easier to make – especially if I can persuade someone else to de-pod the beans. Salads are lifted with seasonal produce, too, as in Rosie Birkett’s nectarine and halloumi offering…

In season this monthbeetrootsblackberriesbroad beanscherriesraspberriesrunner beanssamphireswiss chard Swiss chard and smoked haddock eggs en cocotte SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 35 MINS | EASY | GF 200g smoked haddock fillets (preferably undyed)½ tbsp unsalted butter200g swiss chard, washed and chopped grating of nutmeg2 eggs 2 spring onions, finely chopped150ml double cream20g parmesan, finely grated toasted sourdough or rustic bread, to serve 1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put the fish into a tiered steamer and steam for 10 mins until cooked through and flaky when pressed. Heat the butter in a frying pan until foaming, then fry the chard for 5-6 mins or until wilted. Season with salt, pepper and a grating of nutmeg. 2 Flake the fish into chunky pieces, then divide between two…

Miso salmon garlic crêpes MAKES 8 | PREP 15 MIN | COOK 35 MINS | EASY | LC 340ml full-fat milk1 tsp white miso paste, plus 2 tbsp2 tbsp olive oil1 egg1¼ tsp garlic powder110g plain flour coconut oil, for frying3 tbsp rice wine vinegar4 tbsp maple syrup5 x 120g salmon fillets2 tbsp coconut oil, plus extra for frying4 garlic cloves, finely chopped200g shiitake mushrooms, sliced into strips250g baby spinach2 tsp light soy sauce1 tsp sesame oil2 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted 1 To make the crêpes, put 3 tbsp of the milk in a small bowl and warm in the microwave for 10-20 seconds. Add 1 tsp of miso and whisk until dissolved, then transfer to a large bowl, along with the remaining milk, olive oil, egg, 1/4 tsp of…

The food of the Côte d’Azur is known for its sunshine and chic, effortless vibes, elements captured exactly in Mayfair’s Socca. The palette of pastels and baby blue inside and out, art from local artists and waiters are decidedly French, and the menu reflects that, too. Informed by Claude Bosi’s (pictured) memories of eating the food in the south of France as a child, fish and seafood is celebrated, the aperitif menu is plentiful and, of course, there’s the namesake socca – a type of thin, unleavened pancake or crêpe made from chickpea flour. soccabistro.com Socca with sa tartinade SERVES 4-6 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS RESTING COOK 1 HR 20 MINS | EASY | V GF SOCCA6 tbsp olive oil 1 large shallot, finely sliced3 thyme stalks, leaves only,…

HOME BAR HACKS Sessionable summer drinks The sweet spot when it comes to summer drinking is a refreshing tipple that delivers on flavour but is not so boozy that it leaves you feeling worse for wear in hot weather. Low-ABV beers are a go-to – try Pastore’s Small Lemon Sour (£4.20/440ml, store. claptoncraft.co.uk), which is deliciously fresh and zingy with creamy lemon flavours. For two-ingredient drinks – G&Ts, highballs – swap out your favourite spirit for a less alcoholic fortified wine. Try mixing sweet or blanc vermouth, white or tawny port with tonic; fino sherry with lemonade; or amontillado sherry with ginger ale. On-trend non-alcoholic bitter aperitifs can also be used to boost flavour in cocktails – try swapping for your usual Aperol and Campari in spritzes, for example.…

Warm laminated milk bread MAKES 1 LOAF | PREP 1 HR 30 MINS PLUS TWO DAYS OVERNIGHT CHILLING AND PROVING COOK 15 MINS | MORE EFFORT 500g plain flour, plus extra for dusting10g honey10g salt7g fresh yeast, crumbled350g whole milk, cold120g unsalted butter, cold, plus 20g softened,and extra to serve1 beaten egg, for brushing 1 Tip all of the ingredients, except the butter and egg, into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, and mix slowly for 4 mins on speed 1. Turn up the mixer to speed 2 and knead for 4 mins. Reduce the speed back to speed 1 and add the softened butter, kneading for 4 mins. Turn the speed back up again and knead for another 4 mins – by now you…

Trendspotting SOFT SERVE ICE CREAM Cool creative flavours and palate-pleasing toppings are the frozen dessert of choice this summer. Not easy to recreate at home, these cones, cups and dishes topped with soft vertiginous swirls are best eaten from the source and include flavours such as buckwheat, lemon and basil or coconut and hibiscus @soft_n_swirly, inji-puli (tamarind and ginger) at Sri Lankan restaurant Rambutan or pain au chocolat and mandarin @bakestreetdn. This almond and dill topped with crunchy almonds from Tom Sellers @story_cellar ratchets up the flavour with a savoury edge. BUDGET VS BLOWOUT Buy the best, whatever your budget – this month, chef’s knives ROCKINGHAM FORGE EQUILIBRIUM This knife performed far beyond its price point, and is a great for efficiently chopping ingredients with a rocking chop. Although slightly…

BELUGA DHAL WITH QUICK KACHUMBER When you get in line at the DMV (Department for Managing Vegans) to apply for your vegan card, the first thing they ask you is, what’s your dhal recipe? That’s because dhal is one of the most fundamental aspects of being a vegan and it’s your legal duty to commit a recipe to memory. This is my go-to, which you’re welcome to use in any DMV emergency. I use canned Beluga lentils because they hold their shape better than most, so the final product still has some bite. SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 20 MINS EASY | V GF 1 tbsp vegan butter1/2 tsp black mustard seeds1 small onion, finely chopped5cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped6 garlic cloves, crushed or…

SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS PICKLING | COOK 20 MINS | EASY | V GF PICKLED ONIONS1 small red onion, finely sliced4 tbsp cider vinegar2 tbsp caster sugarTACO FILLING1 tbsp vegetable oil½ red onion, finely chopped1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1cm cubes2 red peppers, deseeded and finely chopped400g tin of black beans, rinsed and drained2 tsp ground cumin1 tsp garlic granules1 tbsp chipotle pasteSALSA2 tomatoes, finely chopped½ red onion, finely chopped1 lime, juiced, plus wedges to serve small bunch of coriander, half finely chopped, plus leaves to serve8-10 small corn tortillas, warmed1 avocado, finely sliced, to serve dairy-free yogurt, to serve 1 Put the pickled onion ingredients in a jar or bowl with 2 tbsp of boiling water and a pinch of salt. Leave to…

Kar-Shing ‘KS’ Tong works in the City by day but spends his free time exploring and eating wherever his palate takes him. From street food to Michelin-starred restaurants, nothing is off the table, and he shares it all on Instagram @ks_ate_here. Our pro says I am too old for TikTok but that won’t stop me from attempting to keep up with the kids. So while Fifty Fifty’s Cupid and accompanying dance helped me realise my K-pop dreams, I turned to Soho’s newest addition, Chung’dam, to rediscover my affinity for Korean food. The minimalist décor of cream walls contrasted by green marble tables and a golden central bar doesn’t offer much atmosphere; however, the pleasant staff, smartly dressed in casual traditional attire, and the sounds and smells of Korean barbecue cooked…

Oysters and chablis; steak and a beefy malbec; blue cheese with sauternes. Just a few of the classic food and wine combinations that become more than a sum of their parts. While I think we should all drink what we like rather than sticking to rigid rules, it’s true that some things make much happier marriages than others. Matchmaking is often instinctive – we reach for fresh, dry whites with a zip of acidity for light, fresh food, especially if it’s lifted with a squeeze of lemon, or anything deep-fried and salty, whereas if you like heavy, tannic reds you’ll know they’ll go better with red meat, earthy pulses and hot spices. Think about how the food is cooked, rather than the base ingredient, and try to balance the flavours…

Smoked eel and watercress SERVES 4 | PREP 25 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT STRAINING COOK 25 MINS | MORE EFFORT 300g natural yogurt40g celeriac, peeled and cut into 1cm cubes150g smoked eel, cut into 1cm pieces edible flowers, to garnishWATERCRESS VELOUTÉ1 small potato, peeled and sliced1 small onion, sliced4 garlic cloves, crushed25ml vegetable oil150g watercressPICKLED CELERY50ml white wine vinegar50g sugar3 celery sticks, peeled and cut into matchsticks 1 Put the yogurt in a strainer lined with muslin over a bowl and leave overnight in the fridge to remove excess moisture. 2 Cook the potato, onion and garlic in the oil in a large pan over a medium heat for 5 mins until softened. Pour in 500ml of water, bring to the boil, then turn down to a simmer for 6-8 mins.…

On the menu Fried stuffed vine leaves with dill cream Flatbread meze pizzas Tinto de verano granita Use a nice-looking hob-to-table pan with a board underneath to make the starter – it both looks good and saves on the washing-up Fried stuffed vine leaves with dill cream SERVES 4 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 5-10 MINS | EASY | V GF Mix 75g of mascarpone, 4 tbsp of double cream and 1 tsp of finely chopped dill or Seggiano semi-fresh dill. Drain a jar or tin of stuffed vine leaves – you will need 8-10. Heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a heavy pan over a medium heat. Squash each stuffed vine leaf to flatten it and make it burst a little, add to the hot oil and…

1 Peach and basil focaccia SERVES 8-10 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS PROOFING COOK 25 MINS | EASY | V 80ml olive oil, plus 5 tbsp and extra for the bowlsmall handful of basil leaves, plus smaller leaves to garnish500g strong bread flour, plus extra for dusting7g fast-action dried yeast2 tsp sea salt flakes, plus extra to garnish4 peaches, pits removed and cut into 24 wedges1½ tbsp runny honey 1 Put 80ml of olive oil and the basil in a mini food processor. Blitz until the basil is very finely broken down. 2 Put the flour, yeast and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer, and stir to combine. Create a well in the middle and add half the basil oil. Using a dough hook on a medium speed,…

ALL-WEATHER EXTRAVAGANZA KAPARA, LONDON Channelling Tel Aviv, this vivacious Soho complex mixes music, food and cocktails, the fun spilling out onto a large covered, heated terrace (pictured, left). Chef Eran Tibi’s creative food revels in theatrical presentation and playful dish names. Dessert ‘gramp’s cigar’ very much looks like it, while deep-fried paprika marinated chicken thighs, with orange harissa kimchi and wild garlic mayo, are subtitled ‘crispy crunchy bums’. Core plates from £11; kapara.co.uk HARBOUR VIEWS ARGOE, NEWLYN Celebrating Cornwall’s fishing fleet, this modish, wood-clad restaurant serves daily changing menus of, say, grilled chard and scallop butter, sand sole with preserved lemon or coley skewers with togarashi. Its terrace and low-intervention tap wines seal a sweet summer deal. Plates £9-30; argoenewlyn.co.uk HIP HIDEAWAY HOLM, SOUTH PETHERTON A spin-off from London’s acclaimed…

Pinto bean and salsa macha dip SERVES 6-8 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 10 MINS EASY | V GF 3 tbsp rapeseed oil1 onion, finely diced3 garlic cloves, minced2 tsp ground cumin2 x 480g tins of pinto beans, drained2 tbsp soured cream pinch of sugar3 tbsp salsa macha (I used Luchito) thumb-sized piece ginger, minced3 tbsp lime juice, plus 1 tsp of zest10g coriander, very finely chopped corn tortillas, to serve 1 Heat the oil in a pan over a low heat, then gently sizzle the onions for 6-7 mins or until they turn soft and translucent. 2 Add the garlic and cumin, warming through for 1 min, before adding the beans. Stir well, warming through the beans and coating them in the spices. 3 Empty the mixture into…

Pakistan is a land of diverse ethnicities and climates, and its cuisine is influenced by invasion, migration and its borders. From Arab, Mongol and Turkish invasions, to the borders of China, Central Asia, Afghanistan, Iran and India – this is a cuisine best described as a confluence of South Asia. Days begin with rich breakfasts of halwa puri, nihari stew and spicy eggs, lunch is usually lighter, with dinner mostly eaten late. Eating out is a favourite pastime. Cuisine drives religious festivals such as Eid, and in Ramadan restaurants are closed during the day, opening at ‘Iftar’ (breaking fast), when streets are lined with pakora and samosa stalls. There are marked provincial differences: Punjabi food is hearty and aromatic, infused with cardamom, saffron and cloves. Lahore, famous for street food…

My name is Kwoklyn Wan and I’m a third-generation restaurateur and Cantonese chef. I have now moved away from the restaurant business and instead use my knowledge and passion for Chinese food to teach people how to cook their favourite Chinese dishes via my cookbooks and on television. Just over a year ago, my wife Jo and I bought my parents’ old restaurant, which is on the outskirts of Leicester city centre in a 130-year-old three-storey Victorian end-terrace, which we are slowly renovating back to its former splendour as our home. First to be fully renovated is our beautifully spacious kitchen and dining room, brightly lit from the bay windows at one end and looking down the long room towards the centre island kitchen area, all overseen by our mysterious…

Stone fruit is one of the biggest thrills of the summer for me, and the minute the very first ripe apricots, nectarines and peaches show up in their blush-cheeked splendour at the greengrocer, I start to load up, buying in bulk and filling bowls dotted about the kitchen. And as much as I love the abundance and beauty of these summer specimens, it’s not just for show. We get through kilos and kilos in summer. Our daughter finishes almost every meal at this time of year with a destoned, juicy fleshed fruit, and my heart swells to watch her savouring the sweet pleasure of peak season fruit at every meal, the sweet syrup spilling down her chin. More often than not I’ll join her, standing over the sink (because unlike…