Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2023 i Olive Magazine

Purists will insist that you can’t improve on the original but I disagree. If Wikipedia is to be believed, the first recipe for caesar salad, invented by chef Caesar Cardini in 1924, didn’t even contain anchovies. What? To my mind, they give the dressing that distinctive, salty kick that – along with lettuce, parmesan, garlicky croutons – makes it unmistakeably caesar. So no apologies from me for our grilled prawn version with basil dressing which is just the kind of light lunch or dinner I want to eat as we head into summer. Basil is one of the easiest herbs to grow and, if you don’t over-water, keep the pots in a sunny spot and pinch away the new leaves you want to use to encourage more growth, the plants…

On the menu Gildas Schnitzel with sweet-sour-crunchy slaw fries Tres leches pudding What is effortless? Easy on the eye and simple to make, thanks to shop-bought ingredients and no fiddly techniques. These recipes can be made ahead or require 30 minutes or fewer of prep – they’re go-to ideas for entertaining special guests. Gildas traditionally use salted anchovies but we’ve used marinated ones for a sharper flavour. By all means used salted anchovies if you prefer. Gildas You could double down on the anchovy by using olives stuffed with anchovies, if you like. SERVES 3 | PREP 10 MINS | EASY | GF Fold one of nine Guindilla peppers onto a wooden skewer, fold a white marinated anchovy fillet in the same way and thread it on top of the…

Yogurt, produced by the bacterial fermentation of milk, comes in many varieties around the world, from familiar natural yogurt and Greek yogurt, to Icelandic skyr and East European kefir. Most yogurt is made from cow’s milk, but sheep’s milk, goat’s milk and buffalo’s milk is also used. 1 Crispy pitta and chickpea fatteh SERVES 4-6 AS A SIDE | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 40 MINS EASY | V 2 tbsp tahinijuice of ½ a lemon300g natural yogurt1 large garlic clove, finely crushed540g jar of chickpeas3 tbsp ghee, melted2 tsp smoked paprika1 tsp sumac, plus extra to serve1/8 tsp cayenne pepper2 wholemeal pittas, torn into chunks75g mixed unsalted nuts2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, roughly chopped2 tbsp mint, leaves only, roughly chopped2 tbsp pomegranate seeds 1 Loosen the tahini…

There’s something about a restaurant with rooms that’s deeply comforting – the promise of a warm, soft bed a mere minute’s stroll after a perfectly executed meal. At Updown, this is amplified in a beautiful 17th century farmhouse, just outside Deal, Kent. Food is sourced from a small collection of local suppliers – meaty breakfast offerings come from The Black Pig butchers in Deal, and The Goods Shed in Canterbury provides some of its seasonal veg. While the outdoor restaurant is open to the public on Friday nights and Sunday lunches, lucky hotel guests can join head chef Oli and the team for all other mealtimes in the farmhouse. updownfarmhouse.com Buffalo mozzarella with peas and basil SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 1 MIN | EASY | V…

TRY What is MASTIC? MASTIC, OR MASTIHA, IS A PEARLESCENT RESIN GUM THAT COMES FROM TREES GROWN ON THE ISLAND OF CHIOS IN GREECE. IT’S OFTEN USED IN GREEK, TURKISH AND NORTH AFRICAN CUISINES, AND HAS A SLIGHTLY MUSKY, WOODY, VANILLA-LIKE FLAVOUR WITH HINTS OF PINE AND MENTHOL THAT MAKES IT A GOOD MATCH FOR BOTH SAVOURY AND SWEET DISHES. IT CAN ALSO BE USED TO MAKE LIQUEUR. THE TINY RESIN PEBBLES ARE USUALLY GROUND TO A POWDER, WHICH EXTRACTS THE MOST FLAVOUR. IT’S AN INGREDIENT LOVED BY CHEFS SUCH AS ESRA MUSLU AT ZAHTER IN LONDON, SAM AND SAM CLARK AT MORO/ MORITO, AND FOOD WRITER GEORGINA HAYDEN. FIND IT AT OLIVEOLOGY, SOUSCHEF.CO.UK OR STEENBERGS.CO.UK. Apricot, orange and raspberry cake with mastic SERVES 8 | PREP 25 MINS PLUS…

Sun-drenched and plonked in the middle of the Mediterranean, the islands of Malta and Gozo have formed a unique cuisine shaped by their geography and occupiers past. The emerald blue coves and bays are stunning, and brimming with sea life. Seafood is consumed often but more as an everyday food rather than for festive occasions, when warm, iconic, hearty dishes such as timpana and bragioli are served. Tomatoes abound in dishes, fresh, but also cooked into ragus or made into a paste to use on bread. Pasta dishes here can be likened to those in Sicily and Italy but with twists and turns. Examples are the vermicelli omelette, ghagin grieg (made like a risotto), or in kusksu, a soup which uses pasta beads. Marrows can be found at the corner…

Get a 360 tour of Edd’s kitchen at Olivemagazine.com and on our socials. I am Edd, a baker and cookbook author. I live in north-east London with my partner, Mike, and our dog, Wesley. The kitchen is rather small, basically a square. It does benefit from a large bay window, which means it’s flooded with natural light, especially in the summer. The kitchen units are painted in a rusty red and cream to add personality and some warmth. One wall is home to my little baking corner: my ingredients shelves and my workbench. We inherited the countertops, which stain ridiculously easily, so are the bane of my life. The flooring is a wonderfully warm engineered oak in a classic herringbone pattern. We haven’t done huge amounts to the kitchen but…

Tomatoes become a primary food group for me and my family, come summer. We keep them in bowls dotted across the kitchen counter and on the table, and if I’m passing a shop or greengrocer that has some splendid looking specimens on display, I’ll usually pick up a bag, as I know we will get through them. My daughter absolutely loves them – because they were one of the first things she was weaned on, and I still get a little surge of excitement when I see her curiosity-cum-joy at biting into their flesh and experiencing that addictive interplay of sweetness, umami and acidity which gives the fruit its unique appeal. She loves the small, juicy vine-ripened cherry and plum varieties, simply sliced in half or slightly warmed until bursting…

Trendspotting DEEP-FRIED ARTICHOKES Crisp, flower-like fried artichokes are hitting plates in increasing numbers. A traditional Roman dish, carciofi alla giudia or Jewish-style artichokes are a common sight in Rome, the choke-less and less thorny Cimaroli or Mammole variety is fried to a deep bronze and eaten whole. Find them gracing the menus of Italian restaurants such as Ombra and Manteca or, as shown here, at Jun Tanaka’s The Ninth, brined and fried until super crisp, served with three-cornered leek aïoli. @theninthlondon SWAN NORDIC JUG KETTLE This slimline and elegant kettle boasts a speedy boil time of under two and a half minutes. In addition to its design and price, we loved its user-friendly features, including the wood-effect rubber handle that’s easy to grip. Robert Dyas (£45.99) BUDGET VS BLOWOUT…

In season this month asparagusauberginesbasilblackcurrantscarrotscourgettescourgette flowersfennel Basil, taleggio and pickled walnut grilled cheese This grilled cheese will go perfectly with salad leaves dressed in walnut oil, a little dijon and the vinegar from the pickled walnut jar. SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY | V 3 tbsp salted butter4 slices of thick sourdough10g basil leaves150g taleggio, chopped2-3 pickled walnuts, drained and slicedsalad leaves, to serve 1 Heat 1 tbsp of the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat and swirl around the pan until melted. Add two of the bread slices and weigh down with a press or with the back of a spatula. Cook for 2-4 mins on one side or until golden and toasted. Repeat with the other two pieces…

One-pot veggie tagine with jewelled bulgur wheat This is very simple to make as you just put it all in the pan and leave it to cook. Served with a delicious bulgur wheat studded with raisins and pomegranate seeds, it’s an ideal midweek meal that tastes even more delicious the next day. SERVES 4-5 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 1 HR 30 MINS EASY | V LC 2 tbsp olive oil2 carrots, thickly sliced1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into large chunks2 courgettes, cut into large chunks1 onion, thickly sliced1 yellow pepper, deseeded and cut into large chunks1 red pepper, deseeded and cut into large chunks½ small butternut squash, peeled and cut into medium chunks2 garlic cloves, minced21/2cm piece of ginger, finely choppedjuice of 1½ lemons1 tsp each of…

Brunch is the ultimate 21st-century mealtime. A decade ago, this hot hybrid barely existed outside London. Now, whether swerving work midweek or recovering late on a Sunday, every British city centre now has multiple venues where you can linger over great coffee, sensational plates of eclectic food and the giddy sense of freedom which brunch conveys. This is olive’s salute to the stars of the smashed avo scene. THE NEW CLUB, BRIGHTON Sumptuous views of blue skies and rolling waves make this airy seafront diner a sweet summer shout. Relax over chipotle chilli bloody marys, pancakes with steeped blueberries, toasted granola and chantilly cream, or New Club’s pork ’n’ beans: crispy pork belly, chorizo, house beans, sumac-marinated feta and eggs on sourdough toast. Meals from £9; thenewclubbrighton.com KONJ, EDINBURGH This…

HOME BAR HACKS Switch up your spritz game There’s little that can beat a crisp and bubbly spritz in the summer. A wine-based cocktail with fizz, a bitter liqueur and a splash of sparkling water – the perfect ratio for a spritz is 3:2:1, using the same order of ingredients. Don’t just use Aperol – Campari or Cynar give more complex, grown-up flavours, or copy the Venetians and use herbal Select Aperitivo, garnished with a green olive. Fortified wines such as vermouth or Lillet also work. Experiment with other base ingredients. Tequila, grapefruit juice and sparkling wine make a next-level paloma, for example. You can also use wines other than prosecco. Champagne and cava are drier and more biscuity, while still white wine with Campari turns your spritz into…

Sea bass aguachile Aguachile, literally ‘chilli water’, comes from the north-west region of Mexico. Traditionally made with prawns, we make it with sea bass. Before the advent of food processors, the sauce would have been made with a molcajete – the Mexican version of a pestle and mortar. This dish uses fragrant bronze fennel and sea fennel but, if you can’t find these herbs, you can use dill. SERVES 2 | PREP 30 MINS | EASY | GF 2 medium shallots, chopped4 green jalapeño chillies6 limes, juiced200g skinless sea bass fillet1/2 head of fennel1/4 cucumberbronze fennel and sea fennel (or dill), to finishsea salt flakes, to serveextra-virgin olive oil, to serveplain tortilla chips, to serve 1 First make the aguachile by blending the shallots, chillies and lime juice in a…

NONNA TONDA PASTA Fresh pasta and sauces are made each morning before being sent out, with a different choice each week, and it’s free delivery, too. We loved the silky parcels of ravioli and the delicate crab tagliolini. From £5.50 per person, nonnatonda.co.uk Olive GREEK HAMPER This hamper showcases the best of Greek produce including stuffed Kalamata olives, smoky tapenade and premium extra-virgin olive oil. £59 (including delivery), shop.Olivemagazine.com FUNGTN SHIITAKE DARK LAGER Alcohol-free craft beer meets adaptogenic mushrooms in this delicious 0.5% ABV drink – think stout flavours but with a fresher, lighter mouthfeel. £33.60 (12 x 330ml cans), fungtn.com effortless! CAROLINE’S PESTO These pestos come in both classic and seasonal (wild garlic, watercress) varieties but all are made by hand and beautifully balanced with quality ingredients. £5.95 (150g),…

Saffron-spiced whole roast chicken (ZAFRANI MURGH) Saffron has long exerted its influence across regions of India: it’s a staple ingredient not just in curries and biryanis but also in tandoori cooking. The spiced yogurt and almond marinade coats the chicken, infusing the meat. The chicken is then basted with saffron-flavoured ghee or butter as it cooks all the way through to keep the whole bird moist, lend even more flavour and give everything a wonderful golden colour. SERVES 4-6 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS MARINATING AND RESTING | COOK 1 HR 35 MINS | EASY | GF 1 tsp saffron strands200g ghee or butter1.9kg whole chickenMARINADE220g greek yogurt3 tsp ground almonds2 tsp kashmiri chilli powder2 tsp ground cardamom½ tsp ground cinnamon8 garlic cloves, ground to a paste5cm ginger, ground to…

SERVES 12 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS COOLING AND CHILLING COOK 5 MINS | EASY 150g salted butter, plus extra for the tin3 tbsp golden syrup200g dark chocolate200g milk chocolate2 Crunchie barshandful of mini marshmallows200g digestive biscuits, brokeninto pieces handful of raisins 1 Heat the butter, syrup and chocolates in a small pan over a gentle heat until melted and combined. Tip into a large bowl and cool for 10 mins. 2 Lightly butter and line a 20cm brownie tin with baking paper. Put the Crunchie bars into a bowl and bash with the end of a rolling pin until broken into small pieces. Add to the bowl of cooled chocolate with the marshmallows, digestives and raisins, and mix everything together well. 3 Tip into the tin and level out.…

Our pro says The Higher Ground team spent the pandemic developing Cinderwood Market Garden, opening Flawd and honing its style. That patient growth is paying dividends at its debut restaurant, which, despite some potentially opinion-splitting features, has opened to hugely positive word of mouth. A minimalist, glass-fronted space, Higher Ground could feel sterile. Instead, wrapped around an open island kitchen, the dining room has a warm energy. The welcome is confident, the music good, the service friendly and inclusive. None of this just happens. It takes careful thought. As does the balance struck in Joseph Otway’s cooking. He combines heritage ingredients and their flavours in often unusual ways. But there is nothing self-consciously clever or challenging about this food. Its central theme is comforting deliciousness. A dish of smoked kale,…

The one single thing you can do to maximise the pleasure of your wine is to drink it from a decent glass. Do this simple experiment: take a tall, straight-sided glass and a tulip-shaped wine glass that tapers towards the top. Pour a little wine into each, no more than one third full, then swirl it around and sniff deeply from each glass. The smell of the wine in the straight glass will be muted and flat while that in the tulip glass will be much more open and expressive. Swirling it in the rounded bowl releases flavour and aroma compounds into the bulbous space above which are funnelled to your nose by the narrowing of the glass. Then taste the wine: the straight glass will direct it down the…

Get a 360 tour and see more of the action at The Parakeet at Olivemagazine.com and on our socials. Asparagus, nettles and almond At The Parakeet, wild nettles are used in this earthy starter. “When picking nettles remember to go deeper inland to avoid contaminated nettles,” advises head chef Ben Allen. “Pick the leaves with gloves on and always wash before cooking.” If you’re not a seasoned forager, we advise using spinach as a replacement to the nettles. SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 25 MINS MORE EFFORT | V GF AJO BLANCO130g blanched almonds200ml almond milk½ tbsp sherry vinegar1 garlic clove NETTLE PURÉE260g nettles or spinach½ tsp chardonnay vinegar lemon juice, to taste12 spears of asparagus4 tbsp nutritional yeast flakes3 tbsp toasted almond flakes 1 Heat the…