Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2023 i Olive Magazine

Making every meal special is our mantra at Olive. Even a quick after-work supper can be a joyful occasion with the right ingredients and some clever cheats. I like to take a few shortcuts when having people over, too, which allows more time to enjoy their company. Having some nifty items in the freezer and cupboards is key to this: chorizo is a banker – its smoky, salty loveliness works in salads, pasta sauces, dips, you name it. Jars of preserved veg in olive oil cheer up tinned cannellini beans or grains, and frozen berries mean an almost instant dessert: see my effortless menu on page 14. With three bank holidays, there are many opportunities this month to push the boat out (or look as if you have!) when inviting…

seasonal In season this month apricotscrabcherviledible flowerslettucemintnectarinespeppers Braised cannellini beans with parmesan and a nasturtium drizzle SERVE 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY 80ml olive oil, plus 2 tbsp3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced2 x 400g tins of cannellini beans 1 bay leaf30g parmesan, shaved, plus the rind150ml vegetable stock15g nasturtium leaves10g flat-leaf parsley1 lemon, zested and juiced¼ tsp dried chilli flakes crusty bread, to serve 1 Put 2 tbsp of oil into a large, deep frying pan. Add the garlic and gently heat the oil over a low-medium heat for 2-3 mins, infusing it with the garlic and making sure it doesn’t brown. 2 Drain and rinse one tin of beans and add to the pan along with the entire contents of the other can.…

Smoky lentil and broccoli stem tacos Meat eaters and vegans alike will enjoy this budget-friendly take on tacos. A handful of surprisingly simple ingredients lends big flavours and ‘meaty’ textures to the smoky lentil and broccoli stem taco filling. SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY | V LC 2 tbsp olive oil 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced1 large broccoli stem, grated400g tin of green lentils, drained and rinsed2 garlic cloves, finely chopped4 sundried tomatoes, roughly chopped1 tbsp tomato purée1 tbsp soy sauce or tamari1 tsp smoked paprika1 tsp ground cumin1 tbsp nutritional yeast8-12 corn or flour tortillaschopped coriander and basillime wedges CUCUMBER SALSA2 baby cucumbers, quartered lengthways, then thinly sliced½ red onion, finely choppedzest and juice of 1 lime2 tbsp chopped mint2 tbsp chopped…

NEW WAVE OMAKASE MAYHA, LONDON Japanese omakase dining (where guests sit at a kitchen counter, watching highly trained chefs create tasting menu dishes in front of them), tends to the hushed and reverential. We love the looser vibe created by chefs Jurek Wasio and Yuichi Nakaya at Marylebone 11-seater, Mayha. The duo play their favourite music and offer chatty insight on dishes. Diners, says Jurek, should “feel like they’re visiting us at home”. Fine UK seasonal produce is blended with key imports (bamboo shoot, shiso buds, sansho pepper), across a menu of ornate sushi, sashimi and dishes such as wagyu beef cheek donburi, mackerel with fig and sesame, or sparkling pine ice cream. Lunch £100; dinner £220; mayhalondon.com GROWING FORCE CROCADON, ST MELLION, CORNWALL Chef Dan Cox (ex-L’Enclume, Fera) spent…

effortless! HOME BAR HACKS Coronation party drinks Planning on a coronation bash? A punch is a great, fuss-free option for big gatherings as you can make it ahead of time and simply add ice when it comes to serve. Use as an easy welcome drink for guests when they arrive or make it the star of the show and have everyone help themselves. At its most basic, a punch consists of a base spirit (such as rum), plus citrus, sweetener, water and spice, although many recipes will also use fruit juices, sparkling soft drinks, teas and wine. Our tip? A day before the party, fill a silicone cake mould with water and freeze to make a giant ice cube. When the punch is ready to serve, remove the ice cube…

discover on the olive podcast 1 MAKE GOOD BEER One of the key things to opening a brewery is to make good beer. It sounds really obvious but we are post the craft beer boom and mediocrity is just not accepted – there’s too much competition. When I started out (in 2012) there were about 10 breweries, and today there’s about 110. That’s just in London. 2 SHARE SKILLS I think it’s really important to surround yourself with people who have a different skillset to you. At Wild Card, I’m really lucky, we have a trio of great people. My colleague, Andrew, is from an economics background – he handles the money. Will – he’s from sales and he’s got very good taste, so he does all of the sales…

Lamb scrumpets with anchovy mayonnaise SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS MARINATING COOK 2 HRS 30 MINS | MORE EFFORT 1kg lamb breast, bones removed (ask your butcher to do this)5 rosemary sprigs, leaves picked and chopped6 garlic cloves, finely chopped50ml vegetable oil, plus extra for frying300ml lamb stock4 egg yolks200ml milk 100g plain flour100g panko breadcrumbsANCHOVY MAYONNAISE200g good-quality mayonnaise15g anchovy fillets, finely chopped10g capers, chopped15g flat-leaf parsley, finely choppedjuice of 1 lemon, plus wedges to serve 1 Put the lamb into a deep oven dish and add the rosemary, garlic and oil with plenty of seasoning. Rub into the lamb, cover and marinate at room temp for 30 mins. Alternatively, transfer to the fridge and marinate overnight. 2 Heat the oven to 140C/120C fan/gas 1. Add the lamb…

Trendspotting TOP-NOTCH BAR FOOD The Artesian, tucked in The Langham hotel, has made the genius move of partnering with Humble Chicken’s chef Angelo Sato to provide a bar menu of dreams (see p61 to find out why we think Angelo’s tasting menu ranks as one of the UK’s best). This buttermilk chicken karaage with shichimi and spicy miso mayo is a must order, paired here with the Amo cocktail made with Cynar, Campari and Glenfiddich Grand Cru scotch whisky. artesian-bar.co.uk BUDGET VS BLOWOUT Buy the best, whatever your budget – this month, stand mixers CUISINART PRECISION STAND MIXER Simple to use, well designed and budget-friendly, this Cuisinart was voted best affordable stand mixer by our reviews experts and is a good-quality option for baking. Argos £252 ANKARSRUM ASSISTENT ORIGINAL FOOD…

Salty brownie ice cream sandwiches I love the idea of a homemade ice cream sandwich but what I’m looking for, and so often missing, is an exterior that actually yields to the ice cream and isn’t impossible to eat. I turned to a fudgy brownie base, since brownies become chewy and don’t fully harden when frozen. MAKES 8 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS FREEZING COOK 30 MINS | EASY neutral oil (such as grapeseed or avocado) for the tin, plus 2 tbsp113g dark chocolate (64-70% cocoa solids), coarsely chopped70g unsalted butter, cubed50g sugar2 eggs1 tsp vanilla extract65g plain flour½ tsp sea salt flakes, plus extra for topping2 tubs of good-quality vanilla ice cream10 Oreo cookies, lightly crushed 1 Heat the oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 3. Line a 20cm × 20cm…

SERVES 6 | PREP 15 MINS | EASY | GF 100g mayonnaise100g thick natural yogurt2 tbsp mango chutney2 tbsp medium or madras curry powder, toasted4 dried apricots, finely chopped (or 2 tbsp of raisins)2 spring onions, finely chopped squeeze of lemon juice½ a small bunch of coriander, finely chopped, plus extra to garnish½ tsp nigella seeds, plus extra to garnish400g left-over roast chicken or cookedchicken, shredded1 tbsp toasted flaked almonds (optional)Little Gem lettuce leaves, to serve 1 Mix the mayo, yogurt, chutney, curry powder, apricots and spring onions with some seasoning in a large bowl. Add a squeeze of lemon to taste, then add the coriander, nigella seeds and chicken. 2 Spoon into the lettuce leaves and serve topped with a sprinkle more of nigella seeds, coriander or some flaked…

Our pro says In London, we’re spoiled for choice when it comes to top-quality tapas bars, with the likes of Barrafina, Morito and Moro, just to name a few. But Maresco very comfortably belongs on that list, too. The menu, developed by head chef Pablo Rodriguez (formerly of Barrafina, Moro, Morito and some of the best restaurants in the Basque region), is tight, and heavily features prime Scottish seafood. Dishes such as the bocadillo de calamar (calamari served in a squid ink bun) and txistorra del mar (sausage made with mackerel and monkfish, with spicy yogurt and talo) were delightful in their simplicity, allowing the quality produce to sing. However, there’s still plenty on offer for those who are not seafood-inclined, and I thoroughly enjoyed the presa iberica (cooked over…

Fingers crossed the sun shines for this month’s many bank holidays. In warm weather we so often reach for refreshing white or rosé wines straight from the fridge, but many red wines are also best served cool when the mercury rises. Temperature has a huge effect on our perception of wine. Chilling enhances its crispness and acidity while allowing its delicate notes to shine through, but if it’s served too cold these become muted and, while it is thirst quenching, the wine tastes flat. As it warms, more volatile aroma and taste compounds are released, so we pick up more complex sensations, and both sweetness and the sense of alcohol are enhanced. Served too warm, wine becomes claggy and/or soupy. Domestic fridges are set at around 6C, which is about…

Some ingredients just beg to be coupled up and, like the most dynamic couples, they bring out the best in one another. From the glorious minute that Jersey Royal potatoes come into season – and they are, happily, well and truly with us by now – I long to cook them and eat them with fresh crab. Jerseys and crab hold a particularly special place in my repertoire because they will always remind me of my dear dad, who, growing up in and later moving back to Kent, had a keen sense of British seasonality. I have an enduring memory of his passion for Jersey potatoes, his excitement at the beginning of their fleeting season, and his penchant for pairing them with some fresh crab from the fishmonger. He’d bring…

On the menu Warm white bean dip with chorizo and prawns Whipped feta, roast smashed potato and grain salad 10-minute berry creams What is ? effortless! Easy on the eye and simple to make, thanks to shop-bought ingredients and no fiddly techniques. These recipes can be made ahead or require 30 minutes or fewer of prep – they’re go-to ideas for entertaining special guests. This recipe can be used with lots of different fruit flavours – try mango and passion fruit (fresh or frozen) or apple or pear purée. It’s also a good way of using up slightly brown bananas. Mash and then fold them into the cream mixture. 10-minute berry creams SERVES 4 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 5 MINS | EASY | GF Tip 300-350g of mixed…

Pickles are not just for garnishing burgers. Make the most of those jars in your cupboard with these clever recipes taken to the next level by using mouth-puckeringly tangy, briny pickles. 1 Cucumber, cornichon and pickled onion gazpacho We used a mixed jar of cornichons and mini pickled onions for this recipe, which often comes with mustard seeds in the brine, creating a pretty garnish for this refreshing chilled soup. SERVES 2 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 5 MINS | EASY | V LC GF 250g cucumber, peeled50g avocado6 yellow tomatoes (we used Datterini)8 cornichons, 6 kept whole, 2 sliced, plus 2 tbsp of pickle brine 8 baby pickled onions, 6 kept whole, 2 quartered50ml olive oil, plus 1 tbsp large handful of basil, plus smaller leaves to garnish½…

Despite London having possibly the best nightlife in the UK, it feels rare to get a spot like Speedboat Bar. Open until late on the weekend (you can get your fill of fiery cuisine and party vibes until 1am), this Thai canteen in Chinatown, brought to you by Plaza Khao Gaeng’s Luke Farrell, has décor almost as bombastic as the flavours. Once you’re done looking at the framed pics of the Thai royal family or playing a game of pool, get your tongue tingling with a menu that would satisfy any chilli fanatic. And don’t forget to cool down after with a creamy cocktail or a tower of beer. @speedboatbar Pickled mustard greens with cloud ear mushrooms SERVES 2-3 AS PART OF A LARGER MEAL | PREP 15 MINS PLUS…

TRY What is RICOTTA SALATA? RICOTTA SALATA IS MADE FROM FRESH SHEEP’S MILK RICOTTA THAT HAS BEEN PRESSED, SALTED AND AGED FOR AT LEAST THREE MONTHS – ‘SALATA’ LITERALLY TRANSLATES TO ‘SALTED’. IT HAS A MILDLY BRINY, SAVOURY, NUTTY TASTE AND A FIRM, CRUMBLY TEXTURE. A CHEF FAVOURITE, IT’S USED AT RESTAURANTS FROM LEGARE AND NORMA IN LONDON, TO LILIA IN NEW YORK. IT’S GREAT FOR GRATING OVER PASTA, BRINGING A SAVOURY TOUCH TO SALADS OR ADDING A SALTY FLOURISH TO PIZZAS AND SUMMERY TARTS, INCLUDING IN THIS RECIPE. IT IS AVAILABLE IN WHOLE FOODS, WAITROSE & PARTNERS OR LINA STORES. Asparagus and ricotta salata tartlets SERVES 6 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY | V 320g sheet of ready rolled puff pastry1 tsp olive oil,…

The dramatic rise of South Korean culture across the globe in recent years helped to put the country firmly on the map – think K-pop, K-beauty, K-drama – transforming its abstract status as a lesser-known country to a popular place many people want to explore. Work hard and play hard is often the attitude people have, which I think has been the backbone of the country’s enormous (and remarkable) economic growth in such a short period of time. “Have you eaten yet?” is how you’re greeted in South Korea. We are a passionate nation who actively chases good and honest food to shape our days – to eat well is to live well. Food has always been at the centre as an equaliser, bringing people together to feel more connected…

I am a chef, food writer and author of Nikkei Cuisine and The Japanese Larder cookbooks. I was born in Brazil of Japanese descent, where I grew up eating Nikkei food, the cuisine of the Japanese diaspora in South America. I came to the UK to study 30 years ago, met my partner Dr Gerald Coakley, fell in love and never left. We live with our dog, Tofu, in Wilton Square, Islington. For the past 12 years I have been hosting supper club events at our home for 32 guests, offering an eight-course tasting Nikkei and Japanese menu. I love the intimacy of these events and the opportunity to meet and get to know my diners personally. Our lower ground floor kitchen is the heart of our home and where…