IT’S CALLED THE CERRADO, PORTUGUESE FOR ‘CLOSED,’ AND FOR NEARLY ALL OF HUMAN HISTORY this vast tropical savanna in central Brazil seems to have been shut off from the rest of the world. People do live there; hunter-gatherer groups, overcoming the formidable wilds, have roamed the Cerrado since the Stone Age. And in colonial times, those escaping slavery often disappeared behind the hills, where they built tight-knit communities, unlocked the land’s subtle gifts, and settled in. Otherwise, across centuries, hardly anyone ventured inside.
The terrain was repellent to visitors, practically impossible to traverse. Much of the Cerrado is a dense, tangled mess of stunted trees and shrubs, the whole place crawling with snakes. It pales in lushness to the mighty Amazon rainforest to the north, the green lungs of the…