PICTURE A CHUNKY gas-fired stovetop. Twist a knob, and whoosh—a potent ring of fire licks at a metal grate. With a typical induction range, you push some buttons, and the reaction is silent and invisible. As a home cook who toiled on the fiery line of a Texas steakhouse through college, I see a gas range and something stirs in me, making me want to subject raw ingredients to the transformations of fire. Induction stovetops? They leave me cold.
Plenty of chefs share my view. “Flames are at the heart of what makes cooking visceral and fun,” says Andrea Reusing, chef-owner of Lantern in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. “For me, cooking is about the basic elements: fire, water, air,” says Bruce Sherman, chef-owner of the Chicago farm-to-table temple North Pond.…
