They make increasingly worthy David Attenborough subjects, the chefs of Auckland. Between lunch and dinner service, on supposed days off and at the break of dawn, you’ll find them at parks, on beaches, in woodlands and eyeing berms for elderflowers, nasturtiums, onion weed, samphire and other goodies the earth offers up like lollies at the end of an Air New Zealand flight. At least, that’s the sexy stuff, the Instagrammable snapshots of lives dedicated to making an essential part of our existence — eating — the best it can possibly be.
Less common are glimpses of the life of a kitchen hand, which is where, like many before him, our chef of the year, Dariush Lolaiy, cut his teeth.
In his case it was at Cazador, the restaurant opened in…
