In October 1686, Claude Le Peletier, Louis XIV’s financial controller, banned the import of Indian textiles to France. At about the same time, the East India Company’s flooding of Indian cotton to England brought about the collapse of the wool-weaving industry. The craze for chintz was so pervasive that Daniel Defoe (author of Robinson Crusoe) lamented that “from foot-cloth to the petticoat…our closets, curtains, cushions, chairs, and at last our beds themselves were nothing but calicos”.
Chintz, of course, is a word of Indian origin. But, as Phyllida Jay points out, so are calico, bandanna, muslin, seersucker, shawl, dungarees, madras check, pyjama and khaki, evidence of India’s dominance in the rag trade’s age-old history.
Jay is a trained anthropologist with an ability to gather innumerable strands of social, political and…
