Innholdsfortegnelse for January/February 2024 i Harper's Bazaar India

Earlier this year, a phrase stuck with me: “Let new tales be told, new songs be sung.” As you read on, you’ll notice meaningful changes and a fresh perspective in Bazaar India. My team and I worked hard to bring you the best version yet. Growing up, I explored various art forms, but my true love for it blossomed during my college days. I learned that art is inclusive and subjective, reflecting individual perspectives. In this issue, we aim to democratise art, making it accessible to all. We offer a guide to investing in art, highlight the vibrant queer art community, showcase emerging artists in South Asia, and honour women like Kiran Nadar, who recently received the Padma Shri for her contributions to art. Princess Gauravi Kumari graces our cover…

The splendorous world of designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla defies the obvious. The profound legacy of the foremost couturiers of our country is emblematic of resurrecting the past in all its glory, and fashioning it for the future. The ultimate style connoisseurs have invested more than three decades in loving, living and breathing India, crafting path-breaking designs and timeless styles. Known for dressing the stars, near and far, the duo’s eternally evolving vision is one for the books. Take for instance, it’s only January, and they have unveiled a new logo, ‘Aikyam’, launched a fashion-inspired music video with the supermodel muses of the house ‘Jogi’, and have announced a behind-the-scenes documentary, The Return of The Muse to be launched later this year with the supermodels. Clearly, Abu and Sandeep…

A two-hour drive from Bhubaneshwar leads to Nuapatna in Cuttack, where massive frames of tied fabric, ivory curtains of drying yarn, and rows of vivid sari-wrapped poles welcome you at every corner. I am here with a group of other journalists hosted by Boito, a new label by Bengaluru-based Richa Maheshwari who is on a mission to spotlight Odisha’s diverse textile crafts, including Khandua—the silk fabric the town is known and GI-tagged for. Coincidentally, my first sari was a tomato-red and black Khandua, a way to connect with my Odia roots. Richa’s enchantment with the region’s textiles began in a similar vein. The former product engineer decided to travel to the most remote parts of her home state in June 2022, Nuapatna being one of them, which led to the…

On a pleasant winter night last December, the brickred façade of Jaipur’s City Palace glowed with the light of a thousand candle lights and the buzz of excited chatter was palpable in the air, as the who’s who of fashion gathered for a fundraising gala dinner. The event was organised by Ralph Lauren in collaboration with the Princess Diya Kumari Foundation (PDKF) and hosted by Princess Gauravi Kumari at the royal residence. The evening came alive with the lilting vocals of singer Anubha Kaul and her band, which was followed by a dinner and then a silent auction. Some of the experiences on auction included courtside Wimbledon seats with Ralph Lauren, an exciting private portrait session in London by Chris Allerton, a chance to enjoy a private dining experience with…

A STANDALONE STATEMENT Bulgari, the renowned Roman High Jeweller, pays homage to the traditional Indian bangle, Kada, with the exclusive B.zero1 Kada Bracelet in dazzling yellow gold—a tribute to India’s cultural affinity with precious metals. Symbolising “modern India,” the bracelet’s spiral design signifies movement and strength. Uniquely voluminous, it allows versatile styling. Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin highlights the bracelet’s homage to Kada’s eternal meaning in Indian culture. Ayushmann Khurrana, the brand ambassador, celebrates the Kada Bracelet as a symbol of boldness and individuality, blending tradition with modernity. STEP UP Introducing the newest entry in their collection—the Astroloubi mid-cut sneaker is designed for men. This contemporary masterpiece features iconic maison Christian Louboutin elements, such as a CL Varsity logo on the sole, spikes adorning the back counter, and a rubber hook…

Since the launch of Sabyasachi Jewellery, it’s been my mission to make and showcase the finest of Indian jewellery craftsmanship across the world. I think it was finally time for my first High Jewellery show in India,” says ace designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee. “I wanted it to be an intimate and focused affair for my customers in India. The collection combines the best of craftsmanship, aesthetic exuberance, and the most exclusive of gemstones. I really wanted to push the boundaries of Sabyasachi Jewellery.” The maximalist designer known for his single-minded focus on building a brand—he sold a 51 per cent stake to Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd (ABFRL) in 2021 to ensure longevity and global growth of his brand—timed his first high jewellery show in the country as a fitting…

Panerai recently inaugurated its third boutique in India at the Jio World Plaza—Mumbai’s largest luxury mall. While the brand has been present in India for nearly 14 years and has nine other points of sale, the latest boutique introduces the brand’s signature design concept. Thanks to large glass windows, without even going in, passersby get a glimpse of the brand, especially the bold luminous green Panerai clock that takes up nearly one whole wall. An ode to the Super-Luminova fluorescence, a shared feature in all Panerai watches, this fully operational timepiece—strategically placed for higher visibility—is an unmistakable nod to the brand’s DNA, underscoring the enduring theme of luminescence. Making the store unlike any other watch store in India is an espresso bar, called Bar Italiano, on one side of the…

My grandmother was known to abandon mundane tasks midway to whip up a sweet treat. My brother and I were often enlisted in these missions and entrusted with a brown-hued bottle of Viola vanilla extract. In anticipation of the imminent sugar high, we clumsily splashed in more than instructed, which Amy Mama, as we called her, never minded. Cakes and puddings would get a heavy dose, but so would chocolate milkshakes, iced coffee, even oatmeal. We lived in Mumbai, and though Indian desserts are customarily spiced with cardamom, saffron, and nutmeg, Mama’s kheer and gulab jamun were vanilla-forward. To me and millions of others, the smell of vanilla is code for home, comfort, and belonging. “Vanilla is one of the few scents that is universally enjoyable,” says Richard L Doty,…

Roshini Vadehra was drawn to pursue arts due to the rich legacy established by her father [Arun Vadehra], who opened the Vadehra Art Gallery in 1987. Joining the same in 2004, she dedicated herself to expanding the gallery’s contemporary art programme and initiated a non-profit organisation called The Foundation for Indian Contemporary Art [FICA] in 2007. Now, most of her time involves travelling all over the country visiting artists’ studios to scour the perfect work for exhibition installations and placing works in collections. Selecting artists, Roshini suggests, involves considering both talent and the relationship with the gallery. “The gallerist-artist bond, akin to a marriage, necessitates mutual respect for enduring success.” Roshini’s private art collection mirrors the gallery’s programme, incorporating works from artists she shares a special connection with, having witnessed…

Tarana Sawhney was introduced to the world of art during her teenage years when her grandfather acquainted her with weekly art exhibitions. Notable among them were MF Hussain’s exhibition themed on Madhuri Dixit and the Padshahnama at the National Museum in New Delhi. “Some of these shows remain etched in my mind because they clearly evoked a strong reaction,” says Tarana. These experiences ignited Tarana’s passion, leading her to chair a pivotal South Asian exhibition at MK Gallery in the UK, showcasing Indian miniatures for the first time since the 1997 show in India. “My husband, Tarun, and I share a profound interest in South Asian contemporary art and Indian antiquities. Our contemporary art collection, though initially organic, shifted towards a focus on Indian women artists,” mentions Tarana. The duo…

Talking about men in the art space, Arjun Bahl is a great name that comes to mind. He recounts his experience, “My mother, when I wanted to learn music production, said ‘please get a proper degree first’. I am happy that I listened to her, to be honest, but today, with such a rapidly evolving environment, I think, opting for arts has become an easier choice.” Arjun shares his vision, inspiration, and the impactful journey of St+art India—an organisation that has been reshaping the urban landscape of the country for over a decade. It is involved in urban regeneration by incorporating artistic works to make cities and public spaces look more interesting and artistic. “For me, it was just the joy of putting something out there, which, hopefully, people enjoy.”…

Mary Gabriel unfolds Madonna Louise Ciccone’s journey from a determined dancer to a pop icon. Mary’s writing portrays Madonna as a pioneering artist unafraid to push boundaries in music, videos, films, and activism. Roger Lewis leverages Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor’s glamour and flaws to narrate an age of excess, tumultuous relationship, and extravagant lifestyle, depicting them as mesmerising figures despite their seemingly monstrous qualities. The book portrays Mexican artist Frida Kahlo’s magnetic originality which is shaped by her tumultuous experiences. Hayden Herrera embraces Kahlo’s love, politics, and Mexican culture, illustrated with rich and haunting visuals. Jonny Steinberg subtly portrays the dynamic relationship between Nelson Mandela and his second wife Winnie Madikizela-Mandela. Navigating their political heroism, betrayals, and hidden secrets, Jonny unveils previously unseen material. Heather Clark explores new materials,…

THE TRIBAL STORY Johargram, a brand operating in the sustainable streetwear category, makes clothes like Kukhna shawl, Biru gamcha, Pindna sari, Maaysaree, and Betra luga. Weaved mainly in a red and white combination, it denotes sacrifice and peace, according to the tribal story. They are working towards preserving their culture, along with educating people about the indigenous fabrics, style, and silhouette. A CULINARY POTPOURRI Explore the unique intersection of Indian and Japanese culture at INJA, New Delhi. Their latest addition—the ‘Hawker High’ menu—is all about gastronomical innovation, delightful aromas, and a flavour-packed punch! Chef Adwait has left no stones unturned to seamlessly blend the umami-rich precision of Japanese cuisine with fragrant Indian street food. Dishes one must try are the Hamachi Bombay Sandwich and Koji Chicken Wings, to name a…

I vividly recall the first time I spoke with Gauravi Kumari over a year ago, stumbling upon the Princess Diya Kumari Foundation (PDKF) brand on Instagram. Who would have thought we’d both end up here, with her gracing the cover of the magazine I now edit? My first impression of Gauravi wasn’t that of a princess, but of a girl who was way more evolved than just the title she was born into. “I come from a household of enigmatic women—from Maharani Gayatri Devi to my grandmother Rajmata Padmini Devi of Jaipur to my mother Princess Diya Kumari, who currently serves as the deputy chief minister of Rajasthan,” Gauravi reflects. Raised amidst tradition, yet influenced by the currents of change, Gauravi epitomises a new generation of royals, seamlessly blending heritage…

Hair: Christos Kallaniotis at the Arch Agency, using Moroccanoil. Make-up: Polly Osmond at the Wall Group, using Sisley Paris. Fashion Assistant: Crystalle Cox. Production: Sally Hughes at Chebabo & Co. Set Design: Gillian O'Brien. Set Assistant: Sophie King. Model: Lara Mullen at Premier Model Management.…

In the pursuit of beauty, it’s crucial to recognise that true radiance extends beyond superficial appearances. Wellness being a big theme in 2024, experts say it is much more than just physical fitness. Vasudha Rai, who has worked as a beauty editor for renowned publications, has come up with her new audiobook titled The Book of Holistic Beauty—a 360-degree approach to skincare. “It was an opportunity for me to create a brand new kind of content, which is an audiobook. I was also intrigued that Audible wanted me to write a skincare bible of sorts based on my experiences as a beauty journalist for over 20 years. That sealed the deal for me,” Vasudha tells Bazaar India. We have all heard that it is important to nurture your skin inside…

GRAFTING The New Face of Youth While it was used to reshape the silhouette, by increasing the size of the breasts and buttocks, fat is emerging as the new yellow gold for volumising (micrografting) or regenerating (nanografting) the face. A breeding ground for stem cells, it is taken with a very fine cannula from the inner surface of the knees, thighs or hips, purified then reinjected into the face, under local anaesthesia or sedation: either in depth to fill the hollows of dark circles, nasolabial folds or temples, or superficially in the dermis to erase spots, improve the quality of the skin and reduce fine lines. Who is it for: Micrografting proves useful even at a very young age (a 20-year-old face whose very deep dark circles make it look…

FEBRUARY Event: LA Art Show Dates: February 14-February 18 Venue: LA Convention Centre Event: Arte Genova Dates: February 16-February 18 Venue: Fiera di Genova, Italy Event: Melbourne Art Fair Dates: February 22-February 25 Venue: Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre, Australia MARCH Event: Collect 2024 Dates: March 1-March 3 Venue: Somerset House, London Event: Art Dubai Dates: March 1-March 3 Venue: Madinat Jumeirah Event: Tokyo Art Fair Date: March 8-March 10 Venue: Tokyo International Forum APRIL Event: PAD Paris Date: April 3-April 7 Venue: Jardin des Tuileries, Paris Event: Artexpo New York 2024 Date: April 4-April 7 Venue: Pier 36, New York Event: La Biennale di Venezia Date: April 20-November 24 Venue: Across Venice MAY Event: Frieze New York Date: May 1- May 5 Venue: The Shed, New York Event: Dak’Art…

In tandem with the theme of our current issue, it is worth reflecting on the 1968 Harper’s Bazaar US cover by the Japanese-American photographer Yasuhiro Wakabayashi, also known as Hiro. Influenced by his mentor Richard Avedon, he garnered acclaim for his transformative skill in juxtaposing the mundane and the exotic. The dreamlike quality of Hiro’s photographs finds roots in his extraordinary life journey—from birth in Shanghai during the Japanese invasion of Manchuria to navigating the upheavals of World War II in China—this unique background infused his art with depth and surrealism. This distinctive approach, evident in his still-life compositions and contributions to fashion, elevated ordinary subjects into objects of desire. As we step into the new year, let this cover be a reminder for you to redefine beauty and surpass…

ANAITA SHROFF ADAJANIA, STYLIST “Collaborating with Gauravi Kumari for her first international fashion cover was truly exhilarating. Her enthusiasm and genuine passion brought a refreshing rawness to our collaboration. The synergy within the team was remarkable, and the results are beautifully captured on the pages for you to discover.” TEESTA BHANDARE, ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, ART MUMBAI “Art, especially contemporary art, has made me more tolerant in how I perceive certain issues. Engaging with artists and understanding the thought behind their practice have allowed me to engage in the world around me in ways that I normally wouldn’t.” Teesta wrote about the emerging South Asian artists for this issue. VINOD NAIR, CONSULTING EDITOR “Around the world, art expresses the way nothing else can, conveys things when or where the words fail to…

Models: Brailin, Dilinger, Leila, and Luisa at New Icon. Art direction and collage: Cózima Murillo + Ágata Murillo. Art Assistant: Ximena Liceaga. Make-up: Vicente Montoya. Make-up Assistants: Mocte Montoya and Lucia Vega Miranda. Hair: Blanca Díaz. Hair Assistant: Ana Osorio. Fashion Assistant: Alberto Bautista. Digitech: Alejandro Salinas. Studio: SEP7IMA estudio.…

Harper’s Bazaar: Ensemble India recently turned 36, how has the journey been? Tina Tahiliani Parikh: “It’s been a labour of love and very exciting. Ensemble practically launched all of India’s top designers today so you can just imagine the high of that kind of discovery. We’re proud of promoting talent and finding a vocabulary for our stores that mirrors the way we look at clothes. It’s been a journey of growth not just by adding new stores, but discovering what this country has to offer, and showing it in the best possible way.” HB: The market for multi-designer stores has evolved rapidly over the years. How do they stay relevant in this changing landscape? TTP: “Multi-designer boutiques have access to all the new talent in the country. Looking out for…

French luxury fashion house Louis Vuitton’s newest jewellery collection ‘LV Diamonds’ is here, and it has the LV Monogram Star, a rare cut that pays homage to the brand’s signature four-petalled monogram flower as its focal point. Available in Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands from January and then in Sydney’s George Street Maison this summer, the collection will feature exclusive pieces designed by Francesca Amfitheatrof, Louis Vuitton’s artistic director for watches and jewellery. Louis Vuitton’s beloved pattern featuring the monogram flower, designed by Georges Louis Vuitton back in 1896 is instantly recognisable today to even the most undiscerning. It is this star-shaped motif that has been reimagined into a different medium with the LV Monogram Star cut, complete with 53 dazzling facets and pointed ends. It’s bold, it’s timeless, and it…

Kiran Nadar needs no introduction. In January 2010, she gave India its first private museum—the Kiran Nadar Museum of Art (KNMA). Today, she is a recipient of the Padma Shri award and is regarded as one of the pioneers of art in the country. A prominent name in promoting contemporary art, Kiran feels art has acquired a heightened sensitivity post the pandemic. “All artistic mediums undergo growth and are shaped by the prevailing events. The pandemic, being a major event, has served as a source of inspiration for numerous artists,” she tells Bazaar India. KNMA has been successful in laying the foundation of museum culture and democratise art in India. “Central to our museum’s mission is the philanthropic journey, aspiring to engage individuals from all walks of life, including both…

Farah Siddiqui’s journey into the realm of art was nothing short of exciting, thanks to her mother’s nurturing influence. “She introduced me to myriad artistic experiences by taking me to numerous exhibitions held in private galleries and museums,” says Farah. Transitioning from personal appreciation to the professional art market uncovered a new dimension, demanding a comprehensive understanding of art from various perspectives—embracing the viewpoints of buyers, gallerists, artists, and the broader economic landscape. While Farah’s early exposure laid the foundation, delving into the professional aspects enriched her understanding, challenging her to view art through multifaceted lenses. “The highlight so far has been curating the largest-ever public art conservation project, ‘Elephant Parade India’ and joining the Elephant Family Foundation,” she exclaims. Working closely with young and upcoming artists, Farah is optimistic…

SULEMAN AQEEL KHILJI Contemporary Artist Suleman says he “wants to be a filmmaker through painting.” His practice is filled with various influences that are exciting for the viewer to uncover. Influenced by the Indian cinema, Suleman often depicts a protagonist who represents the common man. However, while showing these stories Suleman does not want to impose a message on his viewer, instead he wants the viewer to attach their own interpretation and story to each work. As a student of the National College of Arts, Lahore, he was first introduced to Bhupen Khakhar, an artist who continues to evidently inspire his practice even today. His work is currently on display as part of the Premium exhibition at the Royal Academy, London. ZAAM ARIF Contemporary Artist Zaam’s large-scale works are an…

If you have ever experienced a deep fascination for art, it’s likely that you have engaged in activities such as exploring art fairs, purchasing art books to peruse their pages, and seeking out galleries whenever you are in a new city. The emotional impact of art is undeniable, probably why you’ve thought about investing in one [and even thought of reading this article!]. However, the process of buying art can be quite intimidating. One may wonder if they possess the financial means to purchase art. The reality of buying art is far less intimidating and much more enriching. It’s just not about aesthetics; it offers a unique avenue for self-expression and connection to something special. WHY INVEST? In contrast to other investment alternatives such as stocks, shares, and mutual funds,…

Make-up: Raquel Álvarez at One-Off Artists. Make-up Assistant: Alejandro Esteban at One-Off Artists. Photography Assistant: Roberto Herrero. Production: Beatriz Martínez Velasco. Model: Olivia Martin at Uno Models.…

Harper’s Bazaar: Besides physical stress, how can we deal with the emotional stress of perimenopause? What are some of the natural remedies to make life simpler during perimenopause? Mini Shastri: “You can’t have hormonal balance if you have high stress, it’s simply not possible. Overworking, chronic infections, excess exercise (yes!), mental strain, etc., can release stress hormones into the body. To reduce these potentially harmful hormones, include Pranayama, create a daily routine, practice yoga and include nerve/muscle relaxing restorative asanas at the end of your daily exercise routine. Meditate for 5-10 minutes every day! Try and establish a daily routine and adhere to it as much as possible. Uplifting habits nourish the nervous system, establishing a better hormonal landscape. This lowers accumulated stress and stress hormones such as cortisol, preventing…

WATCH …ARGYLLE Reclusive spy novelist Elly Conway becomes enmeshed in real espionage, when the plots of her book mirror a sinister underground syndicate’s activities. Undercover agent Aiden intervenes, plunging Elly and her cat Alfie into a covert world of deception. SLURP …IN THIS LUXURIOUS RANGE In an exclusive debut for India, Starbucks India and Manish Malhotra unveil a unique collaboration. This limited-edition lifestyle drinkware harmonises coffee and fashion, celebrating Starbucks’ commitment to enhance everyday coffee moments with the distinctive touch of the renowned couturier’s craftsmanship. INVEST …IN AN INDOOR PLANT The concept of Bonsai finds its root in Japan, where it means ‘planted in a container’. It serves as a source of well-being and means of creative expression in biophilic interiors. Consider incorporating these as an essential decoration in your…

Harper’s Bazaar: In 1993, you initiated the launch of Seventh On Sixth, later to be known as New York Fashion Week, a centralised platform where fashion designers could display their clothes. Thirty years since then how do you think the fashion industry has evolved? Fern Mallis: “Well, people are still wearing stylish clothes and attending fashion weeks in large numbers. It is still an important business. When we started New York Fashion Week, it was done in a much more centralised way with everything happening at a single venue at Bryant Park. In 2010, the venue was shifted to Lincoln Centre and these days shows are scattered across the city and people are a bit frustrated having to run from one place to the other.” HB: How different are fashion…

In a memorable event last year in September in Milan, Creative Director Sabato De Sarno unveiled the Gucci Spring-Summer 2024 collection. More than a fashion line, it’s a tale of life’s joy, passion, and humanity. Through a blend of real-life experiences, irreverent glamour, and unapologetic confidence, the collection celebrates spontaneity, diversity, and euphoria. With a rich palette of hues, it tells a story of movies, Italy, intellectual pursuits, and global adventures while embracing inclusivity. This collection is an expression of joy in every sense, showcasing life’s vibrant spectrum. The event where the collection was launched, featured an array of celebrities like Julia Roberts, Ryan Gosling, Kendall Jenner, Bad Bunny, and Gucci’s global ambassador Alia Bhatt. Overall, the emphasis was on the universal appeal and cultural resonance. It is cool for…

Your perfect go-to bag for an evening out, Gucci introduces Jackie Notte—a fusion of the classic Jackie 1961 and contemporary design. Skilfully crafted by Creative Director Sabato De Sarno, the bag reflects his vision in design and spirit. Celebrating the beauty of Gucci’s heritage while possessing the latest and more distinct details, the bag—the first by Sabato De Sarno—includes a new snap hook, making it functional and stylish at the same time. A companion who adds glamour to all your outfits, the Jackie Notte is available in various colours, including the signature Gucci Rosso Anchor red hue. It is not just a bag, it’s a symbol of confidence! Available in Gucci stores network worldwide from February.…

In the heart of the contemporary art scene, one name stands out—Tara Lal. As a visionary gallerist, Tara has elevated the art of curation to a form of poetic expression, weaving narratives through colours, shapes, and textures. Known for her discerning eye and innate ability to spot emerging talent, Tara has transformed her gallery—Chatterjee & Lal—into a sanctuary for artistic exploration. In the hands of this extraordinary gallerist, art becomes a living, breathing entity, inviting all who enter to see the world through a kaleidoscopic lens of boundless possibilities. “We recognised that there were great artists emerging at the beginning of the millennium but not many platforms were willing to show more challenging material,” recalls Tara whose gallery in Mumbai will complete two decades in August. Asked about the biggest…

Renowned as an art patron, Shalini Passi has played a pivotal role in supporting emerging artists and promoting contemporary art. Her passion for art is evident through initiatives like the Shalini Passi Art Foundation and MASH, that aim to nurture talent and provide a platform for artists to showcase their work. “Regarding the promotion of young and emerging artists, there is a lot of room for improvement,” says Shalini. “There is a need to cultivate a culture of appreciation of art and artists. I truly believe that corporations and institutional support can result in the sustenance of the artists, which in turn creates a space for a circular economy and allows for more independent works to flourish.” Shalini’s love for art started young. “I was exposed to museums and galleries…

Creative pursuits brought her from New Jersey to Varanasi, and finally love bound her to Jaipur. Meet accomplished strategic art and design consultant Noelle Kadar who possesses a profound understanding of the intersection between art and culture. With a keen eye for talent and trends, she navigates the art world, connecting artists with patrons in a harmonious dance of creativity and commerce. “When you go to an art school where you learn how to make things, you realise that no one knows how to make anything anymore,” says Noelle, an alumnus of Rhode School of Design. “[That way] India always fascinated me for its art and craft legacy. Things were still being made at an advanced level. I wanted to go to Varanasi to learn weaving from the skilled master…

This pink is a light colour, it will make your skin look even darker!” remarks the groom’s grandmother as Sarina, the bride to-be, tries on her wedding ensemble. Despite her preference for a pale pink shade, she opts for a red one under the belief that it would make her skin appear less dark. A scene from the web series Made in Heaven [2023], it touches upon India’s prevailing obsession with fair skin and its impact on the collective psyche of the nation. Despite the global shift towards celebrating diversity and embracing unique identities, marketing for fairness creams, lotions, and treatments that promise a lighter complexion remains a thriving industry, banking on age-old societal preferences and biases. According to The World Health Organization (WHO), marketing industry forecasters, particularly in Asia…