Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2020 i Harper's Bazaar India

WELCOME TO THE December Issue. The end of a year—any year, but especially one as perplexing as this—brings with it an opportunity to reflect. We might contemplate our relationships, both found and lost, or we may revisit our joys, disappointments, and learnings. In many ways, this issue of Bazaar is also filled with several meaningful reflections, to inspire and delight. In The Female Gaze, on page 74, a quartet of brilliant directors ponder over the history of women in Indian cinema. These women have taken their seats at the filmmakers’ table, and are helping shape a sensitive, new narrative. But above all, they make a compelling case for why more women need to tell stories, from behind the lens. “While in every era, films have changed, the representation of women…

KEEP • Heirloom watches • Woven bags • Thigh-high boots RECYCLE • Shift dresses • Charms bracelets • Oversized sneakers…

Arpita Mehta’s journey as a designer A began in 2013, and she quickly gained recognition for her minimalist and fashion-forward fare. “I have always enjoyed dressing up. I remember my mom and aunt used to make we wear these beautiful, soft organza lehenga sets…that’s my earliest memory of falling in love with fluid drapes,” Arpita tells us. “As I grew older, getting my hands on international magazines and observing the clothes, styling, and play of colour on supermodels brought me immense joy,” she adds. On graduating with a degree in fashion from Mumbai in 2006, Arpita decided to forgo a master’s degree, and instead, launch her eponymous label. “It took me over two years to put a team together. I grew organically, retailing through word-of-mouth. However, I felt my pieces…

A sturdy, elegant watch is a singular mark of distinction. It’s little wonder, then, that collectors and horologists have a special affinity for a classic watch With a contemporary spirit, as a bridge between heritage and modernity. An archetype of such a classic watch can be found in the Rolex Datejust: first launched in 1945, it was a revolutionary innovation as the first self-winding, waterproof chronometer that displayed the date in the window, itself. With it, this pioneering piece placed the date at the three o’clock position, and changed the destiny of watchmaking for all times to come. Decades later, the style has adapted itself to the contemporary wearer, in its new iteration—the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31. An aesthetically-designed watch, this version boasts an aubergine, diamond-set dial and an ‘Oyster’…

‘A film that’s etched in my memory for its wonderful representation of women is Satyajit Ray’s Pather Panchali. I was only 13 when I watched it; my school took us to see it in a theater in Kolkata. The female characters—Sarbajaya, Durga, and Indir Thakurun—were unforgettable. Mahanagar is another Ray favourite, as an iconic feminist film. There have been some very interesting female characters in Hindi cinema, too, like Jaya Bachchan in Mili, Smita Patil in Bhumika, or Shabana Azmi in Ankur. But the truth is, for the most part, we haven’t had too many films driven by women in Hindi cinema. Women have been just cosmetic addons, with not much of an attempt to give them multi-dimensional characters. Today, female-led films are becoming box-office hits, and that, indeed, is…

Delhi-based chef and co-founder of restaurant Fig & Maple, Radhika Khandelwal wants to make ‘ugly food’ great again. Her Instagram posts celebrate dishes made from vegetable peels and fruit with one too many spots—ingredients most chefs would bin, but often, are the most nutritious part of the dish. Her ingenious approach has won her international recognition, and even a shout-out on social media from actor Priyanka Chopra Jonas, recently. “When I was in Melbourne in 2008, I’d visit many farmers’ markets and noticed that a lot of produce was rejected simply because it did not look good enough. All that mattered was its cosmetic perfection,” she shares with Bazaar. On researching some more, she discovered that food worth around `50,000 crore is discarded annually in India, where nearly 190 million…

CAPRICORN DECEMBER 22-JANUARY 20 Demands being made on you regarding finances or property must be managed rationally. It could be tempting to respond in an overgenerous way, but don’t be in too much of a hurry. Instead, insist that the final decisions are fair for all. LUCKY DAY 1st—keeping rows to a minimum eases a spiky situation. AQUARIUS JANUARY 21-FEBRUARY 19 You could take on far more than you can comfortably handle, which could lead to disappointment all round. There’s no shame in recognising your limitations and explaining to those concerned how important it is not to over-commit yourself. LUCKY DAY 22nd—what once seemed to be a lost cause brings dividends. PISCES FEBRUARY 20-MARCH 20 Rather than risk causing offence, you’ve fought shy of discussing a sensitive topic. But that…

ALISHA PATEL, POET Hope isn’t as easy as waking up to generosity on Christmas morning,it’s a gift of love that you give to yourself. It’s dancing when the music has stopped,and singing when you’re out of breath.It takes strength and courage—but you’re living proof it exists. Everything you are today is becauseyou once lovingly held hope in your hands,and nurtured it with kindness and patience.And so, hope will always be your truest legacy. PORUS VIMADALAL, PHOTOGRAPHER “To me, this photograph represents hope because it contains elements I love and things I learnt this year while being home. I discovered how much I enjoy creating still-life images, and the mini clay vases represent the beginning of my love for pottery. The bread and ginger signal my love for cooking and baking.…

RAGHAVENDRA RATHORE Raghavendra is a designer and ‘lifestyle merchant’, who has completed 26 years of his eponymous menswear brand specialising in bespoke services. In this issue, he essays a piece on his ancestral home and luxury boutique hotel, Ajit Bhawan Palace in Ode To Legacy. “I’m humbled by the opportunity to capture some of my personal moments with this piece, and I thank the Bazaar team for their patience. And most importantly, for pressing the right buttons for me to have the confidence to willingly speak about my life in the public domain, something that is out of character for me.” NANDITA DAS Nandita Das has acted in more than 40 feature films in 10 different languages. She made her directorial debut in 2008 with Firaaq, and has twice been…

A stitch in time, they say, can save not only a fabric from fraying but also protect an entire legacy of traditional craftsmanship. In its six decades of designing home products and garments for women, men, and children, Fabindia has—perhaps inadvertently—not only preserved the many crafts from across the country, but helped build an aura of ‘cool’ around Indian aesthetic. Much before terms like homegrown, handmade, and natural became the staples of fashion, the brand had already begun to foster the many, nuanced artforms from across the country. And to its credit, it married two disparate worlds, of luxury and rootedness, into a singular identity. With Fabindia having turned 60 this year, Bazaar has an exclusive conversation with its director, Charu Sharma, to discover how it grew into a household…

RISING STAR Earlier this month, Priyanka Chopra Jonas took to Instagram to share the ‘Super Power Suit’ by London-based, Bengaluru-born designer Kaushik Velendra. Worn to the digitally-held Fashion Awards 2020, the actor considered a monochromatic suit. With it, she not only marked her debut as the ambassador for Positive Change for the British Fashion Council, but also drew attention to the highly-technical and unique design process developed by the designer. “We didn’t need to take Priyanka’s measurement for this piece, because the suit is moulded on a mannequin that resembles an actual human body—it is made with 100 layers of heat absorbent tapes and rubber. Each outfit can fit a span of three sizes, because the clothes take the shape of the wearer and accentuate the silhouette,” Kaushik shared with…

All prices upon request. Fashion assistants: Saloni Kohli and Sejal Satish.…

The debate around the representation of women in the Indian film industry—both on and off the screen—has been gaining momentum. And as more women assume significant roles as directors, writers, editors, and more, one would think the portrayal of women on-screen would evolve, moving away from the propesque objectification towards a more compelling, central-to-the-story depiction. Just as the reception of their designations off-screen will change for the better, too. Turns out, while there has been a remarkable shift on both those fronts, they’re still disturbingly wanting in many aspects. One doesn’t have to look far to find examples. Before Lipstick Under My Burkha was cleared for release in 2017, the Central Board of Film Certification had run into a controversy after it refused to certify the film, citing that “the…

“The thing we don’t realise is that we’ve already put a film in a box by calling it ‘women-centric’. Such films continue to be at a disadvantage at every level—right from the casting, to its release. To add to the woes, the production doesn’t even get much publicity, because the film is not considered ‘mainstream’ enough. I have an instinctive issue with terms such as ‘women-centric’ because the film no longer remains a unique feature, merely a ‘female-oriented’ film. This categorisation extends to the filmmaker’s gender, too. When I made my first film, Shabd, all the interviewers were only fixating on my gender; barely anyone asked me about my work! They asked, ‘As a female director, how did you…’. I felt that I was fighting so hard to not be…

A:Bazaar contributors share their experiences… According to recent research published in Catalyst, the proportion of women in ‘senior management’ roles, globally, has grown to 29 percent in 2019-20—the highest ever. While this is encouraging news, the fact is that women continue to be grossly under-represented in the upper rungs of the corporate ladder, with numbers tapering the higher you ascend. The statistics hit harder, closer home. As reported in The CS Gender 3000 in 2019, India has the third-lowest global representation of women managers in all of Asia Pacific. And in 2019, women held only nine percent of business management roles in the country, with just two percent as CEOs. Shelly Kapoor Collins, for one, is aware of the challenges that many female leaders face. She has worked in the…

An award-winning short film, The Booth by Rohin Raveendran Nair, showcases love in the most unlikely of places: a frisking booth in a crowded shopping mall. The 15-minute-long movie explores the intersection of gender, class, and personal space with sensitivity, as it narrates the tale of desire between a female security officer and a young girl. “I always wondered if there was a section of the LGBTQ+ community that may not even know about being queer…who didn’t participate in pride parades. I was very interested in telling their story, which is why I decided to speak about two women from a lower-middle class background,” the independent filmmaker shares with Bazaar. Starring award-winning actor Amruta Subhash and Parna Pethe, the movie has already garnered recognition across the world, ever since its…

The creative genius of Salvador Dalí has spanned across decades and the globe (he even designed an ashtray for Air India in the 1960s). And now, some of his most compelling works have been put together in a new book, Salvador Dalí: The Impossible Collection [Assouline]. Selected by curator and art historian, Paul Moorhouse, the 100 artworks include his oils on canvas, jewellery pieces, magazine illustrations, sculptures, and more. Through these works, Dalí’s many influences can be traced, from Realism to the Old Masters, Impressionism, Fauvism, and Cubism, as well as his avid interest in science, religion, and stereoscopy. There are also famous quotes by him, like, “There is only difference between a madman and me. The madman thinks he is sane. I know I am mad.” This book is…

“My love for art blossomed in the 1980s, while I was doing up my home in Delhi. The first important works I acquired were by M.F. Husain, Manjit Bawa, and Rameshwar Broota, and there was a Krishen Khanna as well. Soon, I had a reasonably-nice collection, and more works than walls, even though I used my husband’s [Shiv Nadar] office and various outdoor spaces to put them up. Around the same time, I noticed that there were hardly any private museums in the country, and only a few state-owned ones (unlike in the USA, where most of the museums were privately-owned). So, I decided to put my art up in the public space, free of charge. I never imagined the impact I would be fortunate enough to make with the…

“I am happy to grow up, but I don’t want to lose my childish spirit or youthfulness.” “My mom has a new rule for me…I have to pause for five seconds before responding to a question.” I have just asked Ananya Panday if she ever feels the pressure to behave in a certain way, and now I am worried that this interview will be one with performative responses. “…but clearly I am not following the five-second rule right now,” she concludes, with a laugh. It is just after 8 p.m., and Ananya is on her way home from a 12-hour work shift. Before our phone call, the actor’s manager sent over a request: could we please restrict the interview to under an hour, in case Ananya is tired? You must…

It is truly a remarkable time for the Indian beauty industry. Not only have we seen a surge in boutique labels reviving Ayurvedic recipes to treat skin and hair, many up-and-coming brands are also blending science-backed ingredients with age-old wisdom to create one-of-a-kind formulas. Given that a more sustainable way of life has become the rallying call, Indian brands are making a strong case for themselves, with certified ingredients and clean practices. Eager shoppers will discover that beauty shelves are lined with these options…a reality that could lead to some confusion. We asked Bazaar contributors to share their favourite beauty products, tried and tested by them, for you to consider and make space for in your beauty cabinet. NAMRATA SONI CELEBRITY MAKE-UP ARTIST “I love the passion that goes into…

BAZAAR LOVES… Joining the illustrious line of Omnia fragrances, Bvlgari's Golden Citrine is as sparkling a scent as the bottle it is housed in. Resembling a flash of sunshine, this EDT is a combination of citrus, floral, and woody notes. Spritz it on your pulse points to experience a tangy-sweet blend of Sicilian mandarin, white peach accord, ylang-ylang essence, and jasmine, that settles down beautifully with the heady scent of cedarwood. SHINE BRIGHT LIKE A DIAMOND Giambattista Valli gave a whole new meaning to this phrase at the couture house's Fall 2020 show. And while, unlike their models, one might not be eager to encase one's gaze with Swarovski crystals, we can certainly take a page out of Valli's beauty book to sport iridescent skin. The key products for this…

The Prep Set Channel your inner scholar with tailored pieces, a sweater, and socks with brogues. The Equestrian Go posh sans the snobbery in a pairing of a classic blazer, fancy blouse, and sturdy boots. The Rock Star Throw caution to the wind and team patent leather trousers with a sweater and striped shirt. The Reveller Add a small heel to your flats for an evening of dancing till you put your feet up. The Homebody A breezy shirt dress makes for a fuss-free option for lounging about or running errands. The ’90s Brat Pull out your wide-legged jeans with big rips and pair them with a slogan sweater. The Purist Add a lace bib and leather harness for a disciplined approach to fashion. The Subverter Explore the dark side…

‘I’ve loved fashion ever since I was a little girl. I always liked dressing up, and my mother was very chic. She was at home with me until I was about 11, when she went back to work, leaving me to fend for myself. I recall one occasion when Easter was coming and I didn’t have an outfit to wear for the big parade on Fifth Avenue. It was the height of the Great Depression, and my mother was too busy getting her business established to take me shopping. So, instead, she said, ‘I’ll give you 25 dollars’, which was a generous amount of money at that time, ‘and you can go into the city and get yourself an outfit—it’ll be good experience.’ I was crazy with joy, and went…

IT’S BEEN 25 YEARS since the Lady Dior bag first made an appearance on the arm of Princess Diana and became an overnight icon; a bag that defined glamour and substance at once, and quickly rose to the ranks of a steady classic. There is history in the exquisite savoir-faire of the storied house: the cannage, for instance, has been modelled after the Napoleon III chairs that Christian Dior seated his guests on for the shows. And the charms, an ode to luck and good fortune. Today, the legacy to create a masterpiece continues with the luxury brand turning the handbag into a rightful work of art—the ongoing Dior Lady Art collaborations invite artists from across the world to reinvent the piece with their own aesthetic and distinct spirit. This…

Lithe, sensuous. and powerful, the panther has held some of the world’s greatest tastemakers in its thrall. In the early 20th century, big cats were already a pervasive presence in Western art and design, thanks to a growing fascination with African and Asian cultures, in which they had long been associated with royalty and power. Egyptomania gripped smart society after the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, inciting a vogue for accessories featuring the panther-headed goddess Bastet and the feline-bodied Sphinx. The interior designer Elsie de Wolfe covered 18th-century footstools in leopard skin; luminaries such as Josephine Baker and Sarah Bernhardt posed for photoshoots with pet cheetahs, symbolic of a wild and irrepressible femininity; and the eccentric heiress Luisa Casati stalked the footpaths of Venice at night, naked save for…

‘I watched mostly Tamil films while I was growing up, and would rarely see women like myself or those in my life represented in them. Often, I felt insulted by the portrayal of women—they were shown as complete simpletons, who didn’t have a mind of their own. They never played any central characters, and were mostly decorative objects, sexualised and reduced to being a feast for the men. There were exceptions, of course, like Veedu, directed by Balu Mahendra. It was a small-budget film, commissioned by Doordarshan for a very limited audience. Apart from the exception, one was usually swamped with tales of misogyny. And that often made me question: are these realistic depictions of women? And are these the men we actually live amongst? Today, as more women are…

The US presidential elections were scheduled in two weeks from when we spoke to UK-based artists Amrit and Rabindra Kaur Singh—better known as The Singh Twins—who had released a digital painting with Donald Trump personified as the devil himself. Horns, hooves, and wings. A bold political statement, no doubt, but one they considered important to showcase. The miniature painting in question, titled Get Your Knee Off Our Necks, is a critical response to George Flyod’s death on May 25, this year. “We were simply outraged, and felt compelled to add our voices to those around the globe calling for an end to institutional racism in America,” they share with Bazaar. “We wanted to depict how systemic racism has deep-rooted connections to a colonial history of enslavement, motivated by commercial greed…

Barbie has come a long way from her days of plastic beauty: she’s been busy advocating for change and celebrating strong, women achievers. Recently, the iconic brand released a one-of-a-kind (OOAK) doll of Indian para-badminton player, Manasi Joshi, under its ‘Sheroes’ programme (dedicated to extraordinary, women role models). Speaking about her own doll, Manasi shared with Bazaar, “I believe that such recognitions help in changing perceptions around disabilities and send out a strong message that if you have the determination, you can achieve anything.” With this doll, the athlete joins the ranks of artist Frida Kahlo, tennis player Naomi Osaka, filmmaker Patty Jenkins, and artistic gymnast Dipa Karmakar, who was the first Indian to have a Barbie modelled after her.…

Discover Dhumketu, one of India’s finest short-story writers from the early 21st century, with the first-ever English translation of his texts. How would the Indian Penal Code view the great epic, today? Here’s an alternate, legal perspective that examines each character’s actions. Four aspiring female authors tug at the heartstrings with their short stories, written in the middle of the pandemic. This espionage-horror tale takes you to a bloody war in Sri Lanka, through the tale of four former spies who receive a mysterious message.…

“I still remember that evening… I must have been 10-years-old, and my mother came into my sister’s and my room to say goodnight to us. She looked stunning! She was heading out for dinner with my father, and was draped in a pale-blue sari with a string of pearls around the neck. That was my very first impression of someone looking absolutely beautiful. While growing up, we followed fairly-mundane beauty rituals. We used ubtans to wash our faces, with milk or yoghurt, and our hair was regularly massaged with oils. I was always keenly aware of the fragrances around me. My maternal grandmother used to place bowls of water filled with mogra flowers all around her home, and a faint scent of the flowers would waft through the rooms. And…

A new era dawned in Harper’s Bazaar covers in the 1950s—American photographer Louise Dahl-Wolfe introduced striking portraiture in the photographs, infusing her love for natural light, movement, and location into fashion shoots. This was also the time of the ultra-feminine silhouette, a glamorous female form with cinched-in waists and exaggerated skirts. In this special Christmas cover from 1951, the two unite with a third element, a pivot of Harper's Bazaar: the celebration of art and culture. As the model strikes a pose with two colourful roosters framing her, we take a page from this delightful image and honour the many, talented artists of our country and across the world.…