Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2019 i Harper's Bazaar India

1. Tishani Doshi is an award-winning poet, author, and dancer. Her most recent novel is Small Days and Nights (2019). In this issue, she traces the source of her personal style through her family wardrobe in ‘A Fashionable Inheritance’, pg 50. “One of the craziest things I’ve done for Harper’s Bazaar is to leave my writer’s retreat in New York for a two-night whirlwind trip to London to shoot the May 2018 cover with Fatima Bhutto and Tahmima Anam, because, who says no to Nonita Kalra?” 2. Ashima Kapoor studied history but soon after discovered her love for makeup. She has been working in the industry for 14 years with celebrities like Jacqueline Fernandez and Kalki Koechlin, and has also taught at Pearl Academy for a decade. Here, she creates…

INDEPENDENT VOICES “The best part of being a musician today is that you can do it by yourself—you don’t need a record label or a studio. You can make everything on one device a phone or laptop, and you can share it on social media. If your art is good, it will get picked up.” THROUGH THE LENS Manchanda also works as a video editor, commercially and for her own films. “I’m constantly shooting visuals on my phone, and now you can get it all in 4K. The resulting footage is super high quality and using some apps I can create an entire audio visual project on my phone.” MULTI-TASKING MOMENT Along with creating her own music, Mumbai-based Manchanda is also a producer for IncInk, a record label founded by…

It has been a busy year for British designer Bethany Williams. She started it with a trip to India, hosted by the British Council at Lakmé Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2019 where she showcased a line of vibrant, androgynous, streetwear silhouettes. Soon after, she won the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design—a title that recognises young designers making a difference to society. Finally, in March, Williams was announced as a finalist for the LVMH Prize (past winners include Marques’Almeida and Marine Serre), where she stands to win almost ₹2.4 crore as a grant. As she waits for the announcement this month, we spoke to the designer about her plans for the brand. Tell us about the collection that was nominated for the LVMH Prize. Each of my collections is made…

Take a cue from Mary Poppins—specifically from her magic purse. The super-sized carry-on is in trend and for good reason. These capacious bags fit all your necessities, from a makeup kit to a laptop. Our favourites include Staud’s square tote with crocodile-embossed leather, Anya Hindmarch’s mesh weave design with the brand’s signature bow motif, and Gucci’s large floral wonder.…

Fashion Revolution is a non-profit organisation and global movement that works for a more sustainable fashion industry. We just published our fourth annual edition of the Fashion Transparency Index, which reviewed and ranked 200 of the world’s largest labels and retailers according to how much they share publicly about their human rights and environmental policies, practices, and impacts. The results reveal that a paradigm shift may be occurring across the industry globally, where the disclosure of social and environmental information by major fashion brands is becoming increasingly common. The highest scoring are adidas, Reebok, and Patagonia, who each score 64 percent of the 250 possible points. Overall average scores have increased by almost nine percent amongst the brands we have reviewed each year since 2017. More fashion labels than ever…

BELOVED BY the Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor, and Grace Kelly, Cartier has a long and storied legacy of catering to fashion royalty. In 1956, Audrey Hepburn (left) graced the cover of Bazaar’s October issue wearing the House’s bold coral-flower earrings. And this year, with the introduction of its most modern collection to date, the renowned jeweller is poised to win over a new generation of style influencers. While maintaining Cartier’s signature geometry and craftsmanship, Clash de Cartier whimsically combines its most celebrated motifs—the pointed Picot stud, the Bead, and the sculptural Clou Carré—in startling and unconventional ways. The result: A collection that is at once playful and arresting, and (dare we say?) fit for a modern-day royal.…

“Thank you for creating this platform. I feel both ecstatic and relieved to know I’m not the only such one in this vast country. I wish I can find my kind of love here, finally.” “I don’t know why I’m writing to you about this. I’ve never shared this. I guess I need to put this off my chest to just be able to breathe again. Here’s me coming out…” The oldest and the newest message, respectively, in my inbox, since I founded Indian Aces: The Indian Asexual Collective five years ago. During this time, through my work in asexuality—defined as a lack of sexual attraction—and aromanticism—characterised by lack of romantic attraction—I’ve learned everything I know about sexuality and relationships. Ironic, you’d think. What’s a relationship if there’s no sex…

BIRD BOX /bəːd bɒks/ To be blind to how terrible one’s dates are Red flags held no meaning for me for the entire decade of my 20s. I dated with a kind of abandon I look back on with a little envy and a lot of horror. So while several of those dates were bad, and involved my willful ignorance, one really stands out. He was older, good looking, and a DJ who lived in another city. I was so taken by the attention, personalised CDs, and thrill of flying out of Delhi on mini breaks that I entirely missed the facts of his being barely educated, a serial cheater, moocher, and frequent recreational drug user. To all my friends who told me so—you were right. DIVRINA DHINGRA, BAZAAR’S CONTRIBUTING…

If there is only one rule to skincare that we all must follow, it is to protect skin from the sun, every single day. Ultraviolet rays are responsible for much of the visible damage done over time, causing wrinkles, pigmentation, and enlarged pores. A good sunscreen helps, of course, but what if you get a double dose by eating your SPF? Many foods contain properties that provide a natural defence from the sun. While this doesn’t mean that you should skip your morning application, it does ensure that you have an extra barrier on a daily basis. ANTIOXIDANTS AND ANTI-INFLAMMATORY FOODS Antioxidants fight free radicals that wreak havoc on the skin due to improper sun exposure. Mumbai-based dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad says, “These free radicals are greatly decreased when you…

How and what we eat has long been debated. Dietitians have been advising consumers to increase vegetable intake, include whole grains, and stay hydrated, amongst a host of other requirements. And while this advice remains true, it is important to focus not only on a healthy diet, but also on when we consume food. Thanks to evolution, our bodies have been following a master clock for years. Following a dietary pattern in line with your circadian rhythm could be the most effective way to live your healthiest life. Our bodies have a daily rhythm that works in conjunction with our hormones, organs, and digestive system—think sunrise and sunset, light and dark, morning and evening. Most of us are used to consuming calories from when we wake up until just before…

A tube of lipstick is a staple in a woman’s bag. And it’s one of the most purchased makeup products in the world. So for M.A.C. this fast-selling product was the best item to choose for its VIVA GLAM campaign, which started in 1994, and raises awareness and funds for HIV and AIDS. Their idea for the cause was to not only make a woman feel and look good, but to also bring a better life to people suffering from the virus. Now, the vibrant campaign has raised $500 million. Bazaar sits down with M.A.C AIDS Fund’s chairman, John Demsey, to talk about their inspiring work and how RuPaul’s iconic campaign was recreated 25 years later. What is the current landscape of HIV/AIDS? Today, it looks very different than it…

ELLEN ON THE GO “It’s hilarious and takes us behind the scenes of The Ellen DeGeneres Show, one of my favourites. And now, to hear the banter between the producers is great fun—they add so much joy. Ellen is super inspirational and listening to her is a real stress buster.” THE REAL FOOD PODCAST hosted by food writer Vikram Doctor “I love Vikram and the way he discusses the diversity of Indian cuisine and culture. He takes us from age-old techniques and recipes to modern references.” THE EAST IS A PODCAST “It is what you turn to when you find yourself watching the news with clenched teeth. This is my go-to politics podcast.” LITTLE ATOMS “This is the smartest books podcast I know—deep, insightful conversations with writers by people who…

CANCER JUNE 22-JULY 23 Treat opportunities opening up before you as confidential. Avoid confiding in someone to whom you’ve often told your deepest, darkest secrets—it could rob you of the chance to improve your position, status, or lifestyle. LUCKY DAY 4th—taking a philosophical approach to problems brings clarity. LEO JULY 24-AUGUST 23 It’s only natural that recent events should cause you to reflect on your opinion of a certain individual. But don’t speak too soon about your change of attitude. You’re dealing with someone with a chameleon-like capacity to change in a minute. LUCKY DAY 17th—an ally persuades you to move off in a new direction. VIRGO AUGUST 24-SEPTEMBER 23 Contact with certain individuals has led to idealising one who is more flawed than you realise. However, it may be…

Harper’s Bazaar celebrated the everlasting style of the sari on a sunny afternoon in Delhi, in collaboration with Satya Paul. Guests arrived at Bo-Tai, dressed in their version of the drape, and a quick look around the space revealed just how versatile the six yards is: Saris worn with trousers and blazers; pleated over ripped jeans; cinched at the waist with wide belts. There was champagne, tropical cocktails, and a catchy retro playlist; a photo booth for boomerang videos; and a sari display that people could sign on. Among those in attendance were Kalyani Saha Chawla, Kanika Goyal, Sumaya Dalmia, Madhulika Sharma, Anupama Dayal, and Bahaar Dhawan Rohatgi.…

AS AN UNRULY TEEN, WHEN I first started to show an interest in the opposite sex, my parents sat down and gave me the talk. While my inner anarchist chose to ignore most of what they said, one line stayed: “Your body will get the love you show it.” I think they meant it as a deterrent to sex, but I turned that into my guiding principle in life. Which meant that long before the term ‘self-love’ came to being, I was an advanced practitioner in the art of putting myself first. Over time I learned that the correct term for it was self-preservation. Women are told over and over again that their needs don’t count. For some reason, I did not get that memo. I knew I wanted it…

The SWIMSUIT Sunshine yellow and modern cut-outs elevate a classic one-piece swimsuit—contrast it with a pair of printed tie-up sandals The WATCH Lounge by the pool or take a dive with a timepiece that’s as stylish as it is functional The BAG Take on any adventure, hands-free, with a two-tone belt bag The DRESS A breezy, playful dress is perfect for nights on the beach—choose one with stripes for added depth to your look The JEWELLERY From lariats to single strands, layer minimal necklaces for a subtle hint of glamour…

SWIM SPECIAL Two of our favourite designers have launched their own swimwear lines. The first is Anjali Patel Mehta, founder of Verandah. A self-described “water baby”, Mehta’s first line of bikinis and one-piece swimsuits score high on support and coverage. Their colourful digital prints of tropical flora and fauna and art deco motifs are inspired by her childhood home in Mumbai. Masaba Gupta also has a deft hand with print and colour. The prolific designer’s newest range of halter neck, strapless, and one-shoulder swimsuits come decorated with sketches of coconuts and palm trees that will immediately put you in the mood for a holiday. Get ready to dive right in. Studioverandah.com; Houseofmasaba.net TOE THE LOOP Originally trained as a jewellery designer, Aprajita Toor started her eponymous footwear label in 2011…

I am getting to know the women in my family through photographs. Even the ones who are not dead, who have drifted off from their younger, fashionable selves. I meet them in the albums in my parents’ house. They are leaning against the newly-bought Ambassador, or posing on cane chairs, or out on the terrace, squinting in harsh Madras light. They are dignified and glamorous in black and white, all colour gleaned out. Kiss-curls and oversized sunglasses and skirt-blouses and saris. Nothing garish. I was a child of the 1980s. It was a time of teased hair and leopard prints and bright, fat belts. All the photographs of my friends and I at the time have a cheapness about them. Living it was different, of course. We were being modern.…

NO 1 the bigger the better Accessorise a monotone look with oversize everything—from sunglasses to porcelain bangles NO 2 break point Punctuate a sleek jumpsuit with a statement necklace and matching belt NO 3 top heavy Let a frilled shirt remain the centre of attention in head-to-toe white NO 4 side effects Offset the simplicity of a one-shoulder top with dramatic pants. A lapel pin adds just the right amount of detail. NO 5 two of a kind Experiment with colour by mixing different shades of pale NO 6 dream team Box pleats, panelled sleeves, and a double collar make for the perfect monotone dress NO 7 bonus points Balancing boxy and billowing is no mean feat. Extra credit for summer layering. NO 8 in equal measure The sleeves get…

Two of Mumbai’s most enterprising women—stylist and producer Rhea Kapoor and pastry chef Kainaz Messman, founder of the Theobroma chain of bakeries and restaurants—are turning their attention to fine jewellery. The pair has teamed up for Zoya’s latest campaign, Zoya Style Digest 2.0, starring Messman and is styled by Kapoor. The goal was simple: To showcase the ease and confidence with which modern women wear precious jewels. We spoke to Kapoor about her approach to styling, her favourite accessories, and the first piece of jewellery she ever bought for herself. Harper’s Bazaar: Tell us about the process of styling for this campaign. Rhea Kapoor: The thing about Kainaz is that she’s beautiful and there is this quiet strength about her. I feel that’s something I can relate to and I…

In my early 20s, I remember giving an inordinate amount of importance to a man’s skill level in bed. He could have glaring personality flaws, he could treat me badly—but if he was a good lover, he’d have me running around in circles for him. I believed my pleasure was dependent on my partner—if I were to have an orgasm during sex, it would be because he gave it to me. It took me 10 years. TENYEARS. To realise that my pleasure could, in fact, depend on me. That with an intimate understanding of my own body, combined with a willingness to communicate, I could be in charge of my orgasms. I realised the man’s existing skill level was almost irrelevant as long as he was enthusiastic and willing to…

The year was 2000. Britney ruled the world and a certain crush—who has now become a bit of a literary star and shall hence remain unnamed—ruled mine. I was at my best friend’s house, though we weren’t BFFs yet, still in that luminous phase of discovery, clocking in the prerequisite hours of hanging out, doing nothing that seems so essential to lifelong friendships. She’d just moved to India from Washington, DC. She wore Ralph Lauren and J. Crew and had a pulled-together, preppy vibe, which was the perfect foil to my ‘rebel without a cause’ outlook at the time. We were going through her beauty stash at my behest when I found a little aluminium tube that said Hemp Cream with a picture of a marijuana leaf on the lid.…

It was a cold, rainy Wednesday morning in Grasse, France, where we geared up in black glossy rain boots, embossed with Chanel’s interlocking C logo, to discover the endless fields of the blossomed May rose. The flower has been growing in the region since the Middle Ages, but it was in 1921—when Gabrielle Chanel requested perfumer Ernest Beaux to create a fragrance—that it became one of the key notes for Chanel N°5. The fields, which are owned by the Mul family, in partnership with Chanel, are damp from the morning rain, and the rose buds are closed due to cool temperatures. Monsieur Joseph Mul, the owner, greets us with a soft, warm smile. His great-grandfather started the farm in the early 1900s, and he has continued his family’s legacy of…

SIRI SIRI NARAYAN, BENGALURU In the song Live It, Siri Narayan raps in Kannada: “I’m the cool breeze, I’ll flow my way/I’m the tornado, I bring in the change”. Rather fitting for her attempts to shake the patriarchy with her self-composed lyrics—on topics from equal paychecks to rejecting male authority—and racking up over 2.5 million views onYouTube for a collaborative feminist track called the Girliyapa Power Anthem. “My songs are a very strong portrayal of women,” says the 26-year-old artiste, who is trained in Carnatic music, can play the veena, and sings in English, Hindi, and Kannada. “In my videos, I present girls in a sense of togetherness. We hardly ever see that—the only portrayal we see of them is as the love interest or as sexualised objects.” The genre…

In its adjective form, ‘long’ can be defined as “having considerable linear extent in space” and, having been in a long-distance relationship—between Oslo and New York—for nearly four years, I can personally claim that I’m glad that the days of pan-Atlantic cruises and airmail are over. Enter FaceTime, Gmail, Whatsapp, Skype, and red-eye flights—all of which are also known as my relationship’s saving graces. That said, some of the greatest love letters in history have come from loving from afar. For instance, I reflect on Oscar Wilde’s letter to Lord Alfred Douglas, which he wrote while in Paris: “Why are you alone in London, and when do you go to Salisbury? Do go there to cool your hands in the grey twilight of Gothic things, and come here whenever you…

IF YOU ARE AN ART AND CULTURE LOVER, THE STANDARD, DOWNTOWN LA is the place to stay. Not only is it a quintessential Los Angeles hangout, but it is also conveniently located near the Arts District, the Museum of Contemporary Art, The alt Disney Concert Hall, and more. The 207-room hotel is partly credited for pumping life into Downtown LA’s nightlife scene, thanks to its terrace, which includes a vibrant rooftop bar, a German-style biergarten, a heated pool, and cabanas, and offers a panoramic view of skyscrapers. The funky ambience is a hot-seller with the mostly young clientele it attracts. And the pet-friendly 24-hour gym and kitschy restaurant, painted bright yellow, are a huge plus as such services are rarely offered in other hotels. Originally built as the corporate office…

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BLANK CANVAS Accessories in pristine white with accents of black and gold GLIT TRIP EBONY & IVORY…

Draw attention to your waist with these wide belts. We love Etro’s embroidered version, Burberry’s double-strap in vintage checks, and Marni’s two-toned design. Not only do they add shape but the details complete any look. Wear them with an oversized shirt, flared dress, or masculine blazer—the options are endless.…

This hefty tome from the Victoria and Albert Museum, London is an encyclopaedia for design aficionados. It features over 300 designs and 500 illustrations of patterns and prints from the textiles of the Indian subcontinent—some as old as 350 years. These range from floral motifs on a set of silk borders from Gujarat to figurative designs on a Rabari men’s jacket. This kaleidoscopic directory has been compiled by textile specialist and V&A curator Avalon Fotheringham. Available through Roli Books…

FAQs Delhi-based Kshitij Jalori started his eponymous label in August 2018, but, just a year on, his textile-focused designs are already on the fashion radar. His love for textiles grew from working with Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Rta Kapur Chishti; visiting a block-printing craft cluster near Jaipur; and his stints at péro, Fabindia, and Dastkar. Jalori’s designs retail at Ensemble and have been spotted on celebrities such as Bhumi Pednekar and Malaika Arora. The NIFT Delhi graduate worked with home furnishings at Shades Of India and is also the creative head of his family-owned tableware business in Ajmer. The USP Jalori’s modus operandi is to reconfigure traditional fabrics for modern women. “What I really enjoy about working with Benarasi textiles is their ability to adapt to new trends and ideas,” he…

The theme of this year’s Metropolitan Museum of Art [MET] Gala, an annual spectacle of fashion and celebrity was Camp. Susan Sontag’s Notes on Camp (1964) was the basis for the exhibition, and Instagram buzzed with excerpts from the text. Sontag emphasised Camp’s critical elements as “failed seriousness” and “outrageous aestheticism”. Of paramount importance is that Camp highlights the difference between artifice and nature. The MET exhibition itself called Camp: Notes on Fashion, includes a photo of the Victorian “Fanny and Stella”, notorious for their cross-dressing, and who referred to their dressing up in women’s garb as “camping”. Author Christopher Isherwood, who chronicled the gay, countercultural scene in 1930s Berlin, frequently referred to Camp. Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich became sex symbols as well as gay Camp icons due to…

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A piece of jewellery is more than just a beautiful object. Especially in India, and more so in the case of the collections of erstwhile royal families. While it is tempting to focus on the clichéd images of maharajas and maharanis as symbols of decadence and excess, it is important to gain a deeper understanding of the royal culture intricately woven in the very fabric of ancient India. Along with instructions on statehood and strategy, ancient Indian literature such as the Arthashastra (4th century BC), also underscored the importance of acquiring gems of exceptional quality, which would bolster the treasury of a kingdom. According to rajadharma or the ‘duties of a ruler’, it was necessary to behave in a manner befitting his or her exalted position, which also included wearing…

HOW AND WHEN DID WE PUT THE IDEA OF ROMANTIC LOVE over everything else? In a predominantly vanilla monogamous world, it has been a challenge for me to be kinky, be polyamorous. On one hand are my desires, on the other, the constant pressure of society to love one, get married, and be devoted (at least pretend to be!) to that one person for the rest of my life. During my younger (pre-Internet) days, I wasn’t even aware of the term ‘polyamory’. I realised that when I was in a relationship with one person, I also felt a strong attraction towards another. And never did I conceal my feelings from my primary partner. I didn’t, because I didn’t feel I was wrong. Ever since, I have based my relationships on…

In my high school—and maybe in yours?—we had thisValentine’s Day tradition called Hugs and Kisses, and it was the bane of my goddamned existence. Here’s how it worked: A few weeks before the holiday, you’d fill out your order form, paying a quarter or so apiece to send Hershey’s Hugs to your friends and Hershey’s Kisses to your crushes, and even mixing it up a little bit if you felt like being cute or silly or coy. Then, onValentine’s Day, the student government officers would run around at lunchtime delivering giant (or not-so-giant) transparent plastic bags of candy so everyone could see exactly how much people loved you. It’s funny, looking back on Hugs and Kisses, to see how neatly it prefigured the arrival of social media—how, on one day…

Temperatures are quickly rising, which means one thing—summer is officially here. It’s time to swap out notes of woodsy ouds and peppery spices for zesty citruses, fresh florals, and dewy herbs. Bazaar takes you on an exploration of five new perfumes, to help you find your perfect summer essential. FOR THE JET-SETTER Louis Vuitton’s Sun Song, a blend of bitter orange and lemon extracts, will transport you to the sunny coasts of Los Angeles. The merest spritz of it will have you California dreaming—perhaps a start to endless holidays? (₹19,000/100ml) FOR THE ROMANTIC Fresh and floral, with a hint of citrus, Gucci’s The Alchemist’s Garden A Song For The Rose unfurls with top notes of rose. Enveloped by soft musk heart notes and a deep woody base, the perfume exudes…

She’s the granddaughter of a legendary beauty mogul, and runs one of the most successful cosmetic brands in the world. While she grew up in the industry, Jane Lauder’s passion is what led her to follow in the footsteps of her famous grandmother, Estée Lauder. In this Bazaar exclusive, she shares her fondest memories of Estée, her first impression of India, and what inspires her the most. HARPER’S BAZAAR: When did you know that taking after your grandmother was your calling? JANE LAUDER: I knew that once I joined the beauty industry, it would be for life. During college I spent summers interning in cosmetic companies, and one in communications and advertising. That’s when I realised that I wanted to be on the creative side of the business, and I’ve…

Ayurvedic skin treatments have become a mainstay in the beauty industry. Unlike other ayurvedic skincare products, RAS Luxury Oils brings the purest and most natural formulas. With no preservatives, alcohol. artificial colours, synthetic chemicals, toxins, or additives, the products are essentially nature in a bottle. After recognising a lack in the purity of natural skincare products in the market. RAS Luxury Oils came up with their own brand of homegrown botanical oils. Every single step in the making of a product. from procuring to packaging, is done in-house. The company uses their own farms to source ingredients, while also partnering with local farmers as well. By offering employment opportunities to women in every level of the company, RAS goes beyond fulfilling a need for just skincare. The homegrown label goes…

Throughout history, the pages of Harper’s Bazaar have focused on the lives of women, and its covers have been a window into their world—through the lens of fashion.  For instance, when functional clothing and bold patriotic colours captured the industry in the 1940s, Bazaar covers saw a wave of easy-to-wear styles. It also inspired holiday shopping along the way. Around then, colour photography gained popularity and more images were shot outdoors. Among these was the January 1924 cover of Bazaar US. The striking image of a model sporting just a pair of sunglasses and a scarf wrapped around her head reflected refined taste at a time when women were joining the workforce. It was shot by Louise Dahl-Wolfe and styled by legendary fashion editor Diana Vreeland. With this ease, the…