Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2018 i Harper's Bazaar India

Lisa Ray is an accidental actor, lifelong covert writer, and overt cancer activist who started her nomadic career in Mumbai. She was narrowly saved from a life of extroverted activities by sidestepping Bollywood in the ’90s to follow the delights of her own introverted volition and will. Ray is now a contributing editor at Bazaar. In this issue, she shares her journey through surrogacy in ‘Sweet Child O’ Mine’, pg 128. “When I thought it was essential to offer an unpruned version of an intimate experience, it was Bazaar or bust. It’s a fabulous fashion platform that respects the written word and personal experience as much as the fall collections.” Yasmin Heinz is a London-based makeup artist and author. Her coffee table book, Elements: The Art of Make-Up, released last…

The heritage brand with British aesthetics at its core is known for quality pieces that will be the building blocks of your wardrobe. With this new season, Marks & Spencer has given its reliable basics a new-age update: Overcoats come in velvety-soft finishes, midi skirts get a sequinned makeover, and warm-weather knits come in bright primary colours. Their Foundation Edit has curated essentials that include the classic trench, crisp shirts, tailored pants and more. We selected three standout looks that set the tone for fall dressing. SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS…

If there’s one thing in the closet of nearly every celebrity, from Priyanka Chopra to Sarah Jessica Parker, it’s Fendi’s Peekaboo. Created a decade ago, the timeless design has since gained cult status. This year, the brand launched its #MeAndMyPeekaboo project—a video series of women from around the world that explores the intimate relationship between the bag and its owner. Bazaar speaks to Silvia Venturini Fendi, creative director of accessories and menswear at Fendi. What makes the bag special? It was an idea that came really fast, but it was an idea of value. When it’s closed, it looks like a classic bag, but then the inside can really hide a big surprise. It’s one of those objects that will stay with you for all your life. Although created 10…

CRYSTAL CLEAR Like a confluence of rivers meeting, Swarovski brought together leading designers to lend their signature styles to its high-cut crystal jewellery. The second CONFLUENCE by Swarovski Professional showcased at the Austrian Embassy, New Delhi was themed around Sparkling Transformations. Amrapali created a range of Baroque-inspired earrings in hues of green, Eina Ahluwalia stayed true to her aesthetic of jewel tone stones in delicate settings, and Rohit Bal was inspired by birds in flight and wilderness. In addition to statement necklaces, cocktail rings, and earrings crafted by Isharya, JJ Valaya, and Shivan & Narresh, this year, the brand added Deepa Gurnani, Nida Mahmood, and Zariin to its CONFLUENCE family. Bazaar’s favourite pieces were Tarun Tahiliani’s Tarakini Pearl Hoops, Outhouse’s Asymmetric Earrings, and Suneet Varma’s Enchanted Forest Tassel Necklace. GOLD…

A senior curator in the Asian Department of the V&A, Divia Patel has co-curated the landmark exhibition Fabric of India (2015) and published India: Contemporary Design: Fashion, Graphics, Interiors. Here, she talks to Bazaar about sharing the India story with the world through art. Why is it important for people, both in India and overseas, to know about India’s artistic traditions? It is important for people within India and overseas to understand how connected India always has been and continues to be with the rest of the world. Ancient trade routes have led to a shared cultural and artistic heritage that is dynamic because it has such diverse influences. I would like to broaden the appreciation and understanding of contemporary art, craft and design from India. I also think it…

Did you know that tulsi helps with anxiety, or why you have to smoke mustard oil before using it? In her new book GLOW, health and beauty writer Vasudha Rai speaks exclusively to Bazaar about the science behind the foods we should be eating. Harper’s Bazaar: What prompted you to start exploring Ayurveda? Vasudha Rai: I have stage 4 endometriosis, and I have tried pretty much everything to control it, from injections to multiple surgeries, to hormones. The only thing that worked for me was when I ate better. HB: Do you believe there is a movement to reclaim our heritage of Ayurveda? VR: Yes, there is a newfound pride. India is the land of superfoods. Before we import exotic herbs from abroad, we should look at what lies at…

LIBRA SEPTEMBER 24-OCTOBER 23 No one can blame you for wanting the best for those you love and care for, but think about the time and resources you may not have to be their main benefactor. You may assume responsibilities you could never hope to fulfil. LUCKY DAY 25th—romantic overtures win you the attention you crave. SCORPIO OCTOBER 24-NOVEMBER 22 You may lack the confidence to address controversial issues with discerning individuals. Prepare to tap into a side of yourself you’ve rarely accessed until now, and look forward to the learning that comes from feedback you’re given. LUCKY DAY 13th—halving your journey doubles your enjoyment. SAGITTARIUS NOVEMBER 23-DECEMBER 21 Unusual demands will keep you on your toes. Don’t let this deprive you of the opportunity to engage with someone about…

FOREIGN INVASION While chain wallets, ‘suicide blonde’ hair, terry-cloth wristbands, neon windbreakers, and hip pouches were making fashion critics cringe across the world—earning the 1990s the epithet of ‘the worst decade in fashion’—in India, the story was changing. In 1991, then-prime minister PV Narasimha Rao and finance minister Manmohan Singh turned the tables on over four decades of policymaking, and opened up the Indian economy to foreign direct investment and deregulated businesses, doing away with what was known as the License Raj. Colour televisions came in, as did foreign music and the clubbing scene. And, suddenly, the state-owned Doordarshan was televising highlights from the Oscars (though late at night). But that wasn’t all. The liberalisation of India in the ’90s coincided neatly with the rise of Rohit Khosla, who had…

Every voice counts. Every opinion matters. The best part of any democracy is the equal representation of all beliefs and ideals. And despite the resultant cacophony, there can be no independence without freedom of thought. Fashion reflects this reality precisely. Particularly in India, the industry is seeing a transformation in the idea of equality. The emphasis on diversity and inclusivity in the zeitgeist has the old working with the new to create a reality in which dissension and discussion co-exist. Our ‘So Bazaar’ section turns the lens on this creative journey as we highlight some of the most important names that are propelling this movement. From thought leaders to rebellious disruptors, the establishment and the radical are coming together for a brave new world. To further understand this dynamic, we…

Change, speed, see-it-now-buy-it-now. Every season at once and no seasons at all. The decline of Western economies, the rise of non-Western fashion centres. The lucrative desires of Southeast Asian and Brazilian luxury consumers. The endurance of Paris as a fashion centre. Social media, sustainability, androgyny, and generations X, Y, and Z. It is a fashion industry in flux with global transformations so pervasive that we hardly know what the world might look like in 20 years. What role does fashion play in these transformations? How does the intersection between fashion and innovation create meaningful disruptions that will define how humanity responds to some of the most pressings questions it faces now? The designers and brands pioneering innovative approaches could lead to disruptions that will fundamentally transform the way we make,…

As far as the eye can see, a Mars-like terrain of clay red earth spreads out under an azure blue sky. A ring of dusty green trees edge the entire vista and, in the distance, dust rises from a lone earth mover making an imperceptible dent in the ground. That’s our first glimpse of a ruby mine owned by British mining company Gemfields in the Cabo Delgado province of Mozambique. Bazaar travelled to the Portuguese-speaking east-African country that, since spring 2009, has emerged as the home of one of the world’s most significant ruby deposits. We’re here to learn about the intricacies of a little-talked about industry that produces one of the rarest precious stones. Eighteen hours and three flights later, we arrive at the tiny Pemba airport in northeast…

LEADING WITH LIGHT Archival pictures by leading photographers show how fashion imagery in India has grown to become accessible, inclusive, and, most of all, a part of cultural commentary JATIN KAMPANI Fashion is an art form. All art forms have either struggled and emerged of extreme suppression or blossomed and prospered by way of celebration. Democracy has played an important part in the process of human evolution by way of arts, politics, and everything else. Democracy has always been the ever-changing face of human evolution. Democracy in fashion—as in everything else—will play an important role in shaping sensibilities of the evolving human. HASHIM BADANI THIS PHOTOGRAPH IS A REPRESENTATION OF FREEDOM. WE FORGET THAT DEMOCRACY IMPLIES THE RIGHT TO PRACTICE A RELIGION. IN MANY COUNTRIES THAT ARE IMPOSING THE BURKHA…

Growing up, there were self-care traditions and rituals I was taught to follow at my south Indian home that were the cause of much embarrassment to my adolescent self. Oil massages. Sandalwood face packs. Cleansing pastes with neem, aloe vera, and hibiscus. And dishes and home remedies in which moringa had a starring role. In the Middle East of the 1980s and ’90s, self-care, organic, sustainable, and cold-pressed were not accepted terminology. There were no hipsters. And I wanted nothing more than to be a cool girl. Which is why the international embracing of moringa makes me feel just a tiny bit vindicated. Moringa oleifera, colloquially known as drumstick in India, is one of the superfoods that have been setting social networks on fire. It has also become a star…

MY TWINS WERE BORN JUNE 22ND IN TBILISI, Georgia by surrogate—the culmination of four long years’ efforts. India, our original choice, banned commercial surrogacy officially in 2017, during which I started cultivating a sense of moral superiority predicated on living through interminable waiting and unpredictable obstacles. We have paid extra for a room with an atrium in the Chachava Clinic. The room crackles with keyed up expectancy. There’s a flat-screen TV playing the World Cup in a corner when my husband, whom I nominated to be in the operating theatre for the birth, bursts in, flushed: “Girls! We have two baby girls!” My mother-in-law drops her knitting, “Now will you tell me their names?” she holds up a blank square of the blanket she has been working on, “I need…

Rich aromas waft as chef Ruchira Hoon-Philip opens a jar of homemade bitters. “I’ve got this fun infusion that I’m trying out,” she says, talking about the upcoming range of cocktails they’re set to serve at The Dirty Apron, the fusion restaurant located on the top floor of Delhi’s The Piano Man. A new-age restaurant with a focus on sustainability and seasonal produce, it aims to offer guests an experimental dining experience. Expect dishes like bacon-wrapped water chestnuts, Thai curry and pumpkin gorgonzola ravioli, and lemongrass and kaffir lime scented crème brûlée, served on beautiful, rustic wooden tables, with live background music played directly from the jazz bar below. “For me, it’s always been about playing with new flavours, being on top of what’s happening in the world and in…

HOW DID THAT HAIR EVER FIT UNDER A HIJAB? It’s a sea of corkscrew curls too big to tame, too glorious to ignore. And it belongs to award-winning Iranian journalist and activist Masih Alinejad, who has spent the past decade advocating against compulsory hijab for women in her home country. Her hair isn’t incidental to her story—in many ways, it represents everything she stands for. “The Iran government thinks I have too much hair, too much voice, and I am too much of a woman,” she writes in her latest memoir, The Wind In My Hair: My Fight For Freedom in Modern Iran (Hachette). When we meet at her home in Brooklyn, New York City, where she now lives in exile, it’s the first question I ask. More in wonderment…

It was an intimate setup at Khar Social, Mumbai, for the launch of Bazaar’s July/August 2018 issue with cover stars Janhvi Kapoor and Ishaan Khatter. The young actors, whose film Dhadak released in July, were introduced by editor Nonita Kalra, met members of the media, and even played a rapid-fire game answering the question, ‘Who’s Most Likely To…’ for the cameras. Guests including Aparna Badlani, Riddhika Jesrani, Ranjit Rodricks, Divyak D’Souza, and Anushka Mulchandani, mingled over glasses of sparkling wine and small bites. The sundowner was part of a series of events taking place through the year in celebration of the 10th anniversary of Harper’s Bazaar in India.…

Every so often Bazaar reaches into its past to pay homage to people who have left an indelible mark on us. And it uses the language of fashion to eloquently retell the story of its heroes. Barbra Streisand, the wildly talented singer-songwriter and the original funny girl of Hollywood was featured on the cover, first in 1972 and again in 1983. Streisand’s exhilarating stage presence, her classic songs, and her performance in movies such as What’s Up Doc? (1972) and Yentl (1983), made her America’s original sweetheart. In 2010, almost 40 years after that first cover, Bazaar decided to pay tribute to this iconic singer, and styled America’s other sweetheart, Jennifer Aniston, in the image of Streisand. Aniston is, in many ways, a contemporary embodiment of all that Streisand represents:…

1 LEGENDS OF THE FALL Embrace luxury with supple leather, burnished metal, and classic plaid In THE FRINGE Layer a tasseled suede vest over a bomber for a modern appeal Soft POWER Wrap yourself in faux fur for a dramatic evening look The big PICTURE Practical and stylish, oversized carry all totes are your perfect arm candy Leather BOUND Nothing says power dressing like a black sheath dress Modern DISCO Uplift your classic tailoring template with a blaze of metal Plenty of PLAID Wide-leg pants and high-neck tops—wear your love of checks with abandon 2 THE NEW LAUNCH: THE MINIATURIST BY GOOD EARTH A mashru choli over a silk chiffon brocade skirt, draped with a silk organza dupatta, all embroidered in gota patti—this is a leaf out of Good Earth’s…

Apart from references to antiquity, floral patterns, and geometry, one significant insight that Forevermark’s 2018 trend report makes is the rise of a strong, confident femininity. “More women than ever before are in paid employment and are buying more diamond jewellery, notably, for themselves. It’s about self-worth,” the report points out. As Forevermark creates for the empowered buyer, Bazaar talks to Federica Imperiali, head of new product development, about designing for the woman of today. What inspired you to pursue a career in diamonds? My mother loves jewellery. She has a very particular taste that has influenced me. I’ve been with Forevermark for 13 years now, and it’s fascinating to discover the limitless things you can do with diamonds. It’s about telling a story. Diamonds are really containers of emotions.…

TINA TAHILIANI PARIKH Ensemble In 1987, when Ensemble opened its doors in Mumbai’s Lion Gate, the store stocked names like Rohit Khosla, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, and Tarun Tahiliani himself, who founded it with his wife, Sal. In 1990, Tahiliani’s sister, Tina Tahiliani Parikh, took it over, and in time she expanded its scope, scouting talent from across the country to make Ensemble a singular space that expresses the collective identity of modern Indian fashion. “The raison d’être of our store will always be to provide support, advice, and a platform to young, artistic entrepreneurs,” she says. Over 30 years later, Ensemble continues to be a launch pad for emerging talent. Last year, Tahiliani dedicated a floor of the Mumbai flagship store to contemporary Indian labels such as Lovebirds,…

In 2011, shortly after the death of the British designer, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, a retrospective of his work, was held at The MET in New York. It was reported as one of 10 most-visited exhibitions in the museum’s history. In 2015, it travelled to London’s Victoria & Albert Museum and became the most-visited exhibition in the institution’s history since it opened in 1852. This marked an unprecedented influence of fashion on a general audience. The phenomenon of presenting fashion outside of the runway, in museums and galleries, first emerged in the 1970s when the legendary Diana Vreeland—who was the editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar for nearly three decades—took over the Costume Institute at The MET. Around the same time, legendary Japanese designer Issey Miyake began experimenting with new formats to…

Over her 15-year career working with hair, Sneha Jhaveri often had clients tell her they were looking for solutions for hairfall and dryness. While at Vous—the salon that Jhaveri has run for 11 years in south Mumbai with a clientele of the city’s most famous names—she offered the best treatments and international products, there was clearly a gap in the market for Indian women. Vasavdatta Gandhi, Jhaveri’s aunt and a mother of two young girls, also felt that vacuum—“I was always looking for natural, organic options for shampoos and conditioners.” 32-year-old Jhaveri and 40-year-old Gandhi, a graduate of New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, put their heads together in 2015 on a plan to create an inherently Indian line of products with an international sensibility, tested within the country and…

IN THE KNOW Bazaar chats with Sonic Sarwate, global senior artist for M.A.C Cosmetics India, on the best products for Fall 2018. What should be the main focus of any makeup routine? Prepping your skin is very important. M.A.C Studio Fix Fluid Foundation is my holy grail to achieve a perfect finish. A makeup trick everyone should know? Use a refreshing spray, like the Prep Prime Fix+, on your lids to give eye shadow a metallic sheen. Shimmer has been trending on the Fall 2018 runways. What’s the best way to wear it? Pat it on to all the spots where light hits the face—the cheekbones and tip of the nose. My pick would be the Real Glow Palette in Gold. BIG BUSINESS Liquid liners, kohls, and shadows—while there is…

“My best advice to my daughter: Keep your focus on what you really care about.”—BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN BRUCE AND JESSICA SPRINGSTEEN ON BRUCE: SHIRT, T-SHIRT, AND JEANS, RRL. SAKS FIFTH AVENUE. ON JESSICA: JACKET, RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION. SAKS FIFTH AVENUE. EARRINGS AND BRACELET, BULGARI. ESTÉE LAUDER PURE COLOR ENVY LASH MULTI EFFECTS MASCARA (`2,200 APPROX) ESTÉE LAUDER DOUBLE WEAR STAY-IN-PLACE MAKEUP (`3,000 APPROX) MAKEUP: GRACE AHN MANICURE: MEI KAWAJIRI HAIR (BRUCE): CHRIS M` MILLAN HE SAID SHE SAID WITH BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN AND DAUGHTER JESSICA HARPER’S BAZAAR: What have you done recently that you were really proud of? HE: Broadway. I’m grateful they welcomed me onto the block and gave me a Tony. SHE: I had a pretty good show-jumping season at the Winter Equestrian Festival in Wellington, [Florida], bringing up a few…

# 431-88 www.431-88.com 7 For All Mankind www.7forallmankind.com A A. Lange & Söhne at Johnson Watch Co, Delhi (011 4151 7518) at Time Avenue, Mumbai (022 2651 5757) Abraham & Thakore Delhi (098717 74436) Bengaluru (080413 29316) Adarsh Gill Delhi (011 6500 6116) Mumbai (022 2284 1222) Akaaro www.akaaro.com Aloja www.aloja.ca Amit Aggarwal Delhi (099714 70003) Amo www.amodenim.com Anamika Khanna Delhi (011 6517 1010) Ara Lumiere Bengaluru (080223 73767) B Benefit www.benefitcosmetics.com Bobbi Brown Delhi (011 4101 8275) Mumbai (022 4002 0982) Bodice Delhi (096500 71122) Bottega Veneta Delhi (011 4609 8262) Mumbai (022 6615 2290) Blancpain at Johnson Watch Co, Delhi (011 4151 7518) at Time Avenue, Mumbai (022 2651 5757) Bulgari Delhi (011 4053 8620/23) C CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC at saksfifthavenue.com Carl F. Bucherer at Ethos, Mumbai (022 6615 1309) Cartier Delhi (011 4678…