Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2018 i Harper's Bazaar India

Alan Gelati, a London-based photographer, started his career at Christie’s in 1998. He has worked with brands like L’Oréal, Givenchy, Blumarine, Chopard, and Schwarzkopf among others. In this issue, he photographs cover star Kangana Ranaut in ‘A True Romance,’ pg 126. “It was a challenging and interesting experience with a team of professionals who can mould around different and tricky shooting situations. The cover is what I call portrait photography and professionalism at its best.” Sabyasachi Mukherjee has traversed a career path that has taken him to the fashion circles of Milan, Paris, New York, London, Tokyo, and Hong Kong to name a few. His label has grown to encompass couture, ready-to-wear, and now his own jewellery line. Here, he speaks with our cover star in ‘A True Romance,’ pg…

CRAFT-BASED TEXTILES—NOWHERE EXCEPT INDIA IS THEIR PRESENCE SO KEENLY FELT AS PART OF A BURGEONING FASHION INDUSTRY. It doesn’t matter if your budget stretches to the heights of a couture gown by one of India’s top designers, a zardosi number from one of the popular boutiques in Delhi’s Lajpat Nagar, or a fresh kurta churidar outfit from one of India’s domestic retail chains: You will hear the same refrain—craft, craft, craft. Whether handloom or surface decoration, India’s fashion weeks are obsessed with craft. Glossy magazines dedicate regular editorials to handloom, juxtaposing it with luxury handbags and incorporating it into international trends. It’s a subject of national pride and the object of myriad government initiatives and funding. But who wins and who loses in this game of textile patriotism? Which begs…

NO BORDERS SHOP Tucked away off a busy main road in south Mumbai is the charming Khotachiwadi heritage district. Walk past old homes with mosaic walls, a chapel with a mural of the Virgin Mary, and go up the wooden staircase of a yellow-painted, 200-year-old bungalow. With its tiled flooring, coloured ceiling lamps, and antique furniture, No Borders Shop feels like it’s from an older time. Here, designers like Eká, Anavila, Rimzim Dadu, and péro sit comfortably alongside vintage finds from Christian Dior, Prada, and Norma Kamali as well as indie accessory brands Luiny and Arpana Rayamajhi from the US. Owner Kanika Karvinkop plans to host exhibitions at the space and she already showcases artworks by illustrator Isabelle Feliu and embroidery artist Negine Jasmine, among others. 47/G, 1 Lane, Kotachiwadi,…

THE BIRKIN The Birkin bag, named for its stylish originator Jane Birkin, was introduced in 1984, and is Hermès’s most coveted style to date. Yet it is impossible to discuss the Birkin without also mentioning the importance of its predecessor, the Kelly. Nicknamed during the 1950s for one of its most famous and fashionable wearers, Grace Kelly, the handbag was first introduced in the 1930s. However, the origins of its design go back even further—to the late 19th century, when a larger but similarly-styled bag was produced as luggage. While the Birkin resembles the Kelly, it is a larger, tote-style bag that is intended to be more functional. Its creation was the result of serendipity: On a flight from Paris to London, Jane Birkin was seated next to Jean-Louis Dumas,…

MAIN MAN Ranveer Singh is a fashion chameleon. From tailored suits to neon sportswear—he is not afraid to mix it up. As the actor was appointed the new face of Italian eyewear brand Carrera, we got him to talk about his love for sunglasses. What is the first thing you associate with Italian style? I’ve been to Italy multiple times—it’s a gorgeous country, very stylish and aesthetically inclined. Milan has always been the centre of the fashion world. When you say something is ‘made in Italy’ you know that it’s of the highest quality. Do you have a favourite pair of Carrera sunglasses? I like the Soft Pilot a lot, but the Tank Hinge is my current favourite. It’s motor racing-inspired and is great if you are doing something active. I…

The surya namaskara is composed of physical form, psychic energy, and divine rhythm. Its 12 postures create the physical matrix around which energy flows, and its performance in a steady sequence focused on breath reflects the rhythms of the universe—the lunar cycle, the hours of a day, the 12 zodiac phases of a year, and the biorhythms of our internal body. It is an ancient, powerful routine that has the ability to uplift you. Learn it, practice it, imbibe it. 1. PRANAMASANA Mantra: Om Mitraya Namaha—salutations to the friend of all. Chakra: Anahata—or the heart chakra, located in the centre of the chest slightly left of the heart. Stand straight with the spine erect and the palms in namaskara mudra at the heart centre. The primary balancing posture in the…

Last year, Hermès’s first ‘millenial’ fragrance burst onto the perfume scene with its exuberant ginger and tuberose notes—a white floral with a fun twist. This year, to give it greater lasting power, the brand has extended Twilly (the name refers to the slim Hermès scarves that women often tie to their handbags) into an entire bathtime experience with a perfume, soap, body wash, and moisturiser to indulge in. What was the idea behind the extensive Twilly d’Hermès Le Bain range? Seeing. Smelling. Touching. Discovering. Listening. Melting. A bathtime ritual is an invitation to all the senses, and offers a perfuming experience just as intense, intimate, and special as applying perfume itself. The concentration is not the same, and so you can apply several layers with the Twilly d’Hermès. While creating…

As someone who loves practicing yoga on a daily basis, I have tried innumerable mats: Everything from the ‘lifetime’ guarantee variety to biodegradable ones. Still, it’s hard to come across a brand like Rumi. Its founder Ritesh Kalati is an ardent yogi who’s been practicing for a decade. “I have the most unusual story about how I began my practice,” he says. He was inspired by his barber who, at 39, was a gymnast competing at the state level. “He looked like someone in his late 20s and he had been doing yoga since his teens.” At the insistence of his barber, Kalati began doing yoga in 2007. As he progressed in his practice, he realised that he wasn’t happy with the mats on offer. What started as a prototype…

BOOK NINE-YEAR-OLD MYSHKIN returns home from school one afternoon to discover that his free-spirited mother, Gayatri, has left their family with a German artist, Walter Spies. She fights for her personal freedom, as India’s revolutionaries gain momentum and Nazis come into power in Germany. We meet Myshkin 60 years later, in 1992, and through his memories of his mother—and the letters she sent while she was away—we explore ideas of liberty, of patriotism, of cosmopolitanism. All the Lives we Never Lived (Hachette), from award-winning author Anuradha Roy, is a sweeping, immersive journey through time, from the 1930s to 1990s, and place, from India to Bali. Here, Roy, whose last novel Sleeping on Jupiter (2015) was on the Man Booker Prize longlist, talks to Bazaar about art during crises and the…

CANCER JUNE 22-JULY 23 As much as you might enjoy the way a close relationship is developing, you’ll eventually have to discuss some delicate issues. By the last week of June, get a mutual understanding in place for an especially sensitive subject. LUCKY DAY 29th—follow a hunch and you’ll boost your bank balance. LEO JULY 24-AUGUST 23 Cash in on a chance to develop an idea that could reap generous profits for you. You may be reluctant to involve people with whom you’ve shared something similar in the past. Don’t feel obliged to justify yourself to anybody else. LUCKY DAY 13th—reveal a secret side of yourself and everybody wins. VIRGO AUGUST 24-SEPTEMBER 23 You have allowed the outside world to impose on your private life. Don’t make idle promises about…

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MY MOTHER LOVED TO DRESS US ALIKE. Way back when polyester was the rage. As were tiny waistcoats and bell bottoms. Think three sisters with waistlength braids in pink pantsuits. In spite of that horrible visual, I know that this weird habit was the reason my sisters and I fell in love with fashion. My mother was the most stylish woman I know. She wore military-inspired shirtdresses accessorised with gold hoops and cork-heeled wedge sandals. She added a trench coat to her sari in winter. And one New Year’s Eve, she wore a chainmail jumpsuit. Trust me, that was high fashion. But I learned what style was the day she converted that outfit into a midi halter dress and wore it again for next year’s December 31st party. This is…

The internet is a dynamic space that allows for much innovation and creation. In this online world, Instagram has gained prominence as a visual playground for millions of users, particularly artists. The app has opened up previously inaccessible channels for those looking to reach industry leaders, new audiences, and new sources of inspiration. An interesting trend to emerge out of Instagram is the rise of the collage. For the past few years, the playful medium that lived in scrapbooks has made a comeback in a big way, especially in fashion. This art form is increasingly being used by designers and brands to create lookbooks, campaigns, and other visual identities. Brands such as Chanel, Stella McCartney, and Céline have all worked with collage at some point, and most recently, both Coach…

Within the first year of his brand’s launch in 2015, the collection Matthew Adams Dolan presented for his MFA graduation show at Parsons was stocked at Opening Ceremony NYC. In its second year, Rihanna pre-ordered his Spring 2016 line, almost in its entirety, sporting it in her first Fenty beauty campaign and the music video for Wild Thoughts (2017). Now in his third year, the designer has been announced as a finalist for the prestigious LVMH Prize after a successful second outing at New York Fashion Week. At the presentation for his Fall/Winter 2018 collection, 18-year-old Mumbai-born model Naomi Janumala opened the show. “When it comes to casting, I have always thought it to be very important to be representative of diversity. As an American brand, based in New York,…

NO 1 forever and a day Rediscover the timeless appeal of classic bootcut bottoms NO 2 dream team Double the denim for twice the style, with a textured co-ord set NO 3 let it shine Pair rough-and-tumble pants with an evening shirt for a more polished look NO 4 India modern For a contemporary take on tradition, switch the churidar with tapered trousers NO 5 cool blues Ease into summer with light layers and frayed jeans NO 6 balancing act A structured blouse spruces up ripped bottoms, no matter how distressed…

As I began my walk-through of the Amrapali Museum in Jaipur, I was filled with déjà vu. Much of what was displayed seemed so very familiar, having grown up in a home where similar silver objéts were found all over the apartment. All the while, I had lived with them in complete oblivion, often incorporating the rose-water sprinklers (ittar daanis) and scroll-holders into playtime with friends. The beauty of the collection at Amrapali Museum is that these everyday, quotidian objects are placed alongside jewellery and rare artefacts to be acknowledged as much for their craftsmanship as their utility. Opened to the public this January, the museum has been in the making for 40 years. Its founders and curators, Rajiv Arora and Rajesh Ajmera own Amrapali Jewels, the celebrated jewellery house,…

ESTHER WOJCICKI: I must congratulate you on your recent 70th birthday. How are you feeling about this milestone? MAYE MUSK: I had been looking forward to it because I feel like things are really going to take off in my 70s. How old are you? EW: I’m 72. MM: I’m younger than you. EW: Yes, so much younger. Your modelling career is seriously amazing. MM: It is amazing! I was always just a working model with three kids. Nobody knew who I was, but it didn’t matter. Now I’m an influencer, so I get to do interviews and use them as a platform to talk about nutrition and go on glamorous fashion shoots like this one for Harper’s Bazaar. It’s beyond. EW: That makes me feel very good too. Any…

INFLUENCE IS EVERYWHERE. And is consistently redefined by Generation Z. Just look at their role models—from the teenage entrepreneur winning awards for his innovative drones to another standing out for her formidable fashion, from the nine-year-old making headlines for her witty captions to cartoons in The New Yorker to the advocates for gun control. It is this drive, this determination, that informed a new fragrance by one of the most storied Houses in luxury. “They dare to live a more authentic life, experience new ideas to build a better world. Determined and conscious, they think positive. They connect to the world directly,” says master perfumer Alberto Morillas, who, inspired by the energy of today’s teenagers, created the new Bulgari Omnia Pink Sapphire fragrance. “I captured this very bold spirit by…

L ast year, it was announced that the only known surviving fragment of Queen Elizabeth I’s wardrobe had been discovered. The intricately embroidered skirt, sewn with gold thread, had been made into an altar cloth and lay undisturbed for centuries in a quiet Herefordshire church. Covered in roses, daffodils, and a menagerie of animals, insects, and caterpillars, this exquisite relic is a testament to how nature was such an intrinsic part of life that even its humblest creatures were elevated into decorative symbols to adorn the costliest of royal fabric. Humans have always relied upon the environment for survival, but it is easy to forget that it is also the source of the clothes that we wear. In the past, this connection was acknowledged and even celebrated, but our increasing…

In the late 1960s, Bazaar was at the forefront of introducing vibrant, new elements to its design. The editor at the time, Nancy White, believed in using graphic design as a medium for visual storytelling. She was also known for fostering new talent such as photographer Yasuhiro Wakabayashi, better known as Hiro. At the time, he was assisting legendary photographer Richard Avedon, who had been working for Harper’s Bazaar since 1944 and was responsible for bringing a distinct narrative to fashion photography. After a year of being Hiro’s mentor, Avedon felt that his student had reached his potential and introduced him to Bazaar’s renowned art director, Alexey Brodovitch. In 1957, Hiro was hired to become the staff photographer at Bazaar—a position he held for the following 10 years. He became known…

The JACKET Add some sunshine to your office wardrobe with this dual-toned Rajesh Pratap Singh blazer The DRESS Pink and red go together like strawberries and cream. Even better when Payal Khandwala pairs them on one dress. The BAG Add a candy-coated clutch, like the one by Deborah Lloyd of Kate Spade, to sweeten up your accessories game The COLOUR Champion ultra-violet, the colour of the year, in Guapa designer Reby Kumar Jindal’s knife-pleated layers The BLOUSE Temper neon-bright hues, like Siddhartha Bansal’s highlighter pink, with soothing, neutral tones The EARRING Embrace mixed media with Sonal Verma’s tasselled shoulder-dusters.…

"Every des igner needs a story. What is my story? Who am I?” For Naeem Khan, it’s a question best answered by his creations. By one dress in particular, actually: A strapless cream-coloured gown in a silhouette inspired by Marilyn Monroe, with sterling silver appliqués reminiscent of Andy Warhol’s poppies, embellished using a technique he learned from his grandfather. Michelle Obama immortalised the dress when she wore it to the Indian State Dinner at the White House in 2009, but it’s special even without the former First Lady’s endorsement. Without force or conflict, it brings together the legacy of embroidery Khan inherited and the decadence he experienced when he moved to New York City in the 1970s. Khan grew up with fashion—his grandfather started an embroidery and fabric-making business in…

CRAFT TRAIL Bakutra is a village 200 kms north of Ahmedabad that Anita Dongre finds herself revisiting often. An arid landscape, mud houses, women in garments shimmering with mirrorwork, sitting in the yard and embroidering—this is where a Grassroot dress is created. In 2015, when Dongre launched her label, Grassroot by Anita Dongre, she joined hands with SEWA (Self Employed Women’s Association), which, since its inception in 1972, has brought employment to thousands of craftspeople countrywide. Gauriben is one of the 800 women of SEWA who has found a new business partner in Dongre. “Earlier I used to be known as someone’s mother, daughter or wife. Today the village knows me as Gauriben,” she says with pride. Soft cotton mul, handwoven in Benaras, is sent to Bakutra, where Gauriben and…

It was 1875, in the idyllic village of Le Brassus, Switzerland, when two friends, Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, decided to build on their love and skill for watchmaking, and founded what has come to be one of the most respected and innovative watch brands in the world. Within a few years of the company’s inception, the duo had successfully established themselves as pioneers in the industry, creating a steady stream of world-first launches, both in terms of record-breaking extra-thin models and the miniaturisation of complex mechanisms. The first was a Repeater wristwatch in 1892, which would audibly chime the time at the press of a button—a feat in an era when electricity was scarce—followed by the world’s thinnest pocket-watch caliber in 1921, measuring at just 1.32 mm.…

MY SISTER AND I LOVE AND LOATHE EACH OTHER. Alternatingly. Often both at the same time. I’ll never forgive her for picking a fight with me one Christmas morning, she’ll never forgive me for peeking into her diary when I was 11, and she was 17. Yes, there’s a long five-year gap between us, which has prompted her to call me, on more than one occasion, an ‘accident’. She has also told me in meticulous detail how I was: a) Adopted b) Found in a gutter. Only my wailing (and our mother’s stern insistence) prompted her to retract her story. I’ve been told how when I was born, the first thing my sister did was hide all her toys. It is this generosity of spirit that has sustained our relationship…

OVER THE LAST FEW MONTHS, I’ve looked into skincare as a casual consumer, at best. To understand the essentials, what my skin needs as I cross the age when it glows no matter how many workouts I skip or glasses of wine I drink. Here’s the recommended list: Exfoliator. Under-eye gel. Facial oil. Acids—hyaluronic, glycolic, mandelic, lactic. Masks, sheet and clay. Retinol. Night cream. Vitamin C, even better with vitamin E, iron, and botanicals like olive leaf extract. Did I mention there’s a particular sequence for application? Whew. First Water Solutions, then, is a relief. Rooted in Indian recipes and ingredients, it demystifies skincare through potent formulations that target any potential concerns. The range features a clarifying facial wash and scrub, face mists in six versions, like jasmine and white…

Manic, decadent, and rebellious are words often used to describe Moschino designer, Jeremy Scott’s work. If his design for Cardi B’s look at the Met Gala in New York last month didn’t grab your attention, his new limited-edition makeup collection with M.A.C Cosmetics will. A riot of colours for lips, cheeks, and eyes packaged in old-school cassettes, boom boxes, and CDs, the collection is his ode to music. Tell us what your relationship with M.A.C has been and why you partnered with them? M.A.C has been my partner for creating the looks for my shows for so many years. They have not only supported my designs from a cosmetics perspective, but they’ve helped to bring my documentary—Jeremy Scott: The People’s Designer—to life, and their philanthropic efforts separate them from any…

BOOK What’s on your bedside table? The absolute necessities of life: My book, the book I read to my daughter before she sleeps, eye gel, hand cream, and some more books. And I am excited to announce that my bedside table has a new addition—reading glasses! Your most prized possessions? My daughter. And my three novels. Tell us three things about your new book, Prime Time Crime. Stories of Mumbai gang lore are popular in cinema, but Prime Time Crime is noir from a woman’s point of view. And that has not been explored in this genre. It moves at breakneck speed. It is backed by research that is seamlessly interwoven with the story, so you will know a bit more than you did before. Who would play the protagonists—intern…

Catherine Deneuve is looking for her cigarettes—her Marlboro slims. She lights one and, as we speak, it’s not long until she reaches for another. “I smoke too much,” she says. I would love it if that could be erased from me.” But in the meantime, Deneuve says she might just switch to vapour cigarettes. Perhaps a more realistic approach than having something erased from a celebrated fixture of French culture, one who was the actual model for Marianne, the figure of the French Republic appearing for years on coins and stamps nationwide. At 74, the sovereign of French cinema has preserved a global image as the undisputed embodiment of French chic and is an icon of style, still very much present in the fashion world. She made controversial headlines last…